I use a filter at the end of the line just ahead of the gun/nozzle
with an oiled compressor.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 03:51:00 GMT, "Fourleaves" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Is it true this is less of a problem (or no problem) with oiless
>compressors? Is there a reliable, inexpensive way to filter otherwise?
On Sun, 29 May 2005 16:32:49 -0400, "Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to
>remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something
>recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a residue?
I like compressed air and/or the same solvent as the first finish
coat, except water. Water raises the grain. My most often prefinish
wipe-down is done with mineral sprits.
If I'm staining, I often don't get crazy about removing dust, as the
washcoat, stain, barrier, and clear coats will get light rubs between
coats. A blast of air is fine. Oiling is even easier, as the wiping
of the oil removes dust.
I've had no problems with store bought tack cloths used to wipe dust
from between-coat scuffing of varnish, shellac, and lacquer.
I don't use a lot of water base finishes, but others here do. They
can comment on tack cloths and sawdust removal for those finishes.
Barry
I use mostly waterborne finishes therefor wipe down with denatured alcohol or
even a damp ( with water) rag. If you don't flood the surface with water there
is not much grain raising and it is looked after with the first light sanding.
Cheers, JG
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sun, 29 May 2005 16:32:49 -0400, "Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to
> >remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something
> >recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a residue?
>
> I like compressed air and/or the same solvent as the first finish
> coat, except water. Water raises the grain. My most often prefinish
> wipe-down is done with mineral sprits.
>
> If I'm staining, I often don't get crazy about removing dust, as the
> washcoat, stain, barrier, and clear coats will get light rubs between
> coats. A blast of air is fine. Oiling is even easier, as the wiping
> of the oil removes dust.
>
> I've had no problems with store bought tack cloths used to wipe dust
> from between-coat scuffing of varnish, shellac, and lacquer.
>
> I don't use a lot of water base finishes, but others here do. They
> can comment on tack cloths and sawdust removal for those finishes.
>
> Barry
>
Guess who wrote:
>
> On Mon, 30 May 2005 10:57:19 -0500, Hax Planx
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Unfortunately, nothing compares to naphtha for cleaning up grease and
> >oil and just because you can't see any doesn't mean it isn't there.
> >Alcohol doesn't put a dent in it, nor does acetone. For a graphic
> >illustration of this, try cleaning something greasy or oily in each
>
> No mean-spiritedness intended here, but really, if you have THAT much
> grease on your work, you need another hobby. I've often gone not even
> close to that extent [using alcohol] and had absolutely no problems
> finishing whatsoever.
What type of finishes do you typically use?
And, the advice of Hax isn't directed at the amount but the almost
insane reactions against using anything that some see as the least bit
flammable/toxic/whatever... :(
Yeah, don't smoke while using naptha and don't sniff the can opening,
but it's a common shop consumable, for heaven's sake!
Greetings and salutations...
On Mon, 30 May 2005 15:15:06 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> those who like those glaring pinanner finishes.
>>
>pinanner?
>
>
AKA "piano"...
Regards
Dave Mundt
On Mon, 30 May 2005 03:51:00 GMT, the inscrutable "Fourleaves"
<[email protected]> spake:
>Is it true this is less of a problem (or no problem) with oiless
>compressors? Is there a reliable, inexpensive way to filter otherwise?
Harbor Freight has filter/regulator sets on sale for $20 quite often.
Grab one of those and your compressor will be set for life.
I blow off any sanding dust (or, more often, scraping curlies)
then wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner.
Within minutes, I'm putting finish on. Since I like wiping varnishes
and satin finishes, dust isn't as large a problem for me as it is with
those who like those glaring pinanner finishes.
P.S: Please learn to bottom-post.
--
If you turn the United States on its side,
everything loose will fall to California.
--Frank Lloyd Wright
On Mon, 30 May 2005 13:00:28 -0500, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What type of finishes do you typically use?
Tung oil, varnish, wax, .... sometimes stained first, sometimes not
[make my own from pigment & turps.]
>And, the advice of Hax isn't directed at the amount but the almost
>insane reactions against using anything that some see as the least bit
>flammable/toxic/whatever... :(
Not being paranoic, just judicious. Like working in chemicals labs
taught me ...wash *before* peeing.
Is it true this is less of a problem (or no problem) with oiless
compressors? Is there a reliable, inexpensive way to filter otherwise?
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good point; you have to spray ONLY clean air!
>
> Dave
>
> SatansCabanaBoy wrote:
>
>> Compressed air from a tank isn't such a good idea. Lubircating oil, and
>> moisture can be sprayed onto your project, and that will definately stain
>> wood, or screw up finishes. Go with dave's aforementioned vacuum
>> treatment.
>>
>> SCB.
Stacey says...
> I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to
> remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something
> recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a residue?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Stacey
I use a vacuum, a tack cloth and a wipe down with naphtha in that order.
The naphtha will take away any tack rag residue and it is good for
removing all the other gunk sticking to your wood like skin oil, and
oil, grease and wax from machines. There are also tack rags available
that don't use a sticky residue, but collect the dust in the fibers of
the cloth.
Guess who says...
> You'll find a ton of other similarly dangerous solvents to do the same
> job. However, I'd recommend alcohol as being the lesser of all evils
> [when used externally :-) ]. Volatile naphtha is positively
> definitely out in my book.
Unfortunately, nothing compares to naphtha for cleaning up grease and
oil and just because you can't see any doesn't mean it isn't there.
Alcohol doesn't put a dent in it, nor does acetone. For a graphic
illustration of this, try cleaning something greasy or oily in each. It
is a fire hazard, but not as much so as gasoline, which we use regularly
in much greater volumes and even more dangerous circumstances. Filling
up your car is an accident waiting to happen. You have a large volume
of extremely volatile and extremely flammable fuel with an enclosed
space above it containing a mixture of the volatile fumes and air. One
spark and the fireworks begin. Yes there is some danger if it is
handled carelessly, but as woodworkers we handle volatile flammable
materials all the time, so I assumed everyone was with the program of
not setting their work area on fire.
I NEVER use tack cloths any longer. A good shop vac with a round brush
attachment (I wrap tape around the brush to stiffen them) is what I use.
Sometimes I also blow out the pores with a heavy blast of compressed
air (with the doors open with cross ventilation so the dust goes
bye-bye), followed by the aforementioned vacuum treatment. I use fast
drying finishes and have no trouble with dust. Cloths can leave bits of
lint. Tack cloths can mess up your finish.
Dave
Stacey wrote:
> I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to
> remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something
> recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a residue?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Stacey
>
>
"Fourleaves" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is it true this is less of a problem (or no problem) with oiless
> compressors? Is there a reliable, inexpensive way to filter otherwise?
>
I do it with an oiless. Yes, there are filters available if you have oil in
the air. This is more important with older compressors as the rings wear.
It is also a method I use only if the weather is warm enough to do it
outside. In the shop you just blow a lot of air and stir up more dust.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
Good point; you have to spray ONLY clean air!
Dave
SatansCabanaBoy wrote:
> Compressed air from a tank isn't such a good idea. Lubircating oil, and
> moisture can be sprayed onto your project, and that will definately stain
> wood, or screw up finishes. Go with dave's aforementioned vacuum treatment.
>
> SCB.
>
>
On Sun, 29 May 2005 21:05:40 -0500, Hax Planx
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I use a vacuum, a tack cloth and a wipe down with naphtha in that order.
>The naphtha will take away any tack rag residue and it is good for
>removing all the other gunk sticking to your wood like skin oil, and
>oil, grease and wax from machines. There are also tack rags available
>that don't use a sticky residue, but collect the dust in the fibers of
>the cloth.
You'll find a ton of other similarly dangerous solvents to do the same
job. However, I'd recommend alcohol as being the lesser of all evils
[when used externally :-) ]. Volatile naphtha is positively
definitely out in my book.
Also recommended, likely understood, but worth a mention ...a lightly
damped cloth, used quickly enough to avoid evaporation, not a soaking
of the wood.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 15:15:06 GMT, the inscrutable "toller"
<[email protected]> spake:
>> those who like those glaring pinanner finishes.
>>
>pinanner?
Yeah, you know: Grand pinanners, upright pinanners, player pinanners,
tons of coats of hand-rubbed black lacquer finishes on any kind of
pinanner.
P.S: If you still don't grok it, think "piano", silly.
--
If you turn the United States on its side,
everything loose will fall to California.
--Frank Lloyd Wright
>I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to
> remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a
> residue?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Stacey
>
Scraping. It is a whole art of it's own:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=48431
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=45784
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=46266
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=32669
My choice:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=32635
A scraping blade must be burnished:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=41070
Handheld blades:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=41069
Scraping is an aquired art to a degree, especially in conditioning the blade.
But it leaves wood very very smooth.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
On Mon, 30 May 2005 10:57:19 -0500, Hax Planx
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Unfortunately, nothing compares to naphtha for cleaning up grease and
>oil and just because you can't see any doesn't mean it isn't there.
>Alcohol doesn't put a dent in it, nor does acetone. For a graphic
>illustration of this, try cleaning something greasy or oily in each
No mean-spiritedness intended here, but really, if you have THAT much
grease on your work, you need another hobby. I've often gone not even
close to that extent [using alcohol] and had absolutely no problems
finishing whatsoever.
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> writes:
> On Mon, 30 May 2005 15:15:06 GMT, the inscrutable "toller"
> <[email protected]> spake:
>
>>> those who like those glaring pinanner finishes.
>>>
>>pinanner?
>
> Yeah, you know: Grand pinanners, upright pinanners, player pinanners,
> tons of coats of hand-rubbed black lacquer finishes on any kind of
> pinanner.
the only two pianos that I looked on really closely wre a baby grand
with a cast aluminum frame in dull grey finish and an upright in oiled
oak...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23