I have a client who had a nice countertop made by a local cabinet shop.
It is only 30" wide by 22" deep and is mostly covered by a square vessel
bowl/sink.
He built it out of 2 layers of particle board and veneered it with a
nice thick slab of rosewood.
He finished it with, who-knows-what and there were rings from glassware
on the finish, but not into the veneer itself.
The guy who made it is dead, so no info from him.
So far, I Festooled down to the veneer, all is well, looks nice, etc.
Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
Shellac is out.
Poly? That would give me a satin/semi-gloss option, but long exposure to
a wet glass?
Water based?
My first choice would be Autocryl, but waaaaay too much money and hassle.
What else does the wRECk Collective have in its bag of tricks?
Any and all help will be appreciated.
r
On Jan 17, 1:51=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1/17/2010 12:33 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > This is one I drew up for a customer to show her how awkward her
> > proposed layout would look.
> > She LOVED it!!... Oh well. They're hard to clean too..you need to wipe
> > both sides of the bowl and get in between it and the
> > countertop...naaaa, just a fad, me thinks..(hoping)
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Corner.jpg
>
> IMO, ditto for "farm" or apron sinks. They hang over the front edge of
> the cabinet and water ends up on the floor and down the front of the
> base cabint. Many, if not most, are designed with flat bottoms and flat
> bottoms do NOT drain completely, no matter how level.
I like farm sinks, but I would modify them a bit. I'd have them stick
out over the faceframe by about 1/2" and make the sink have a 1/4"
half round protrusion on the bottom so water doesn't run down the
front and then back onto the face of the cabinets. Not sure that is
the best way to describe it. When I see overlay doors and the counter
doesn't protrude past them it bugs me. An old GF had some like that
and whenever you'd spill something it's get all over the front of the
doors and drawers. I blame the Corian installer.
JP
On Jan 17, 3:41=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Polyester resin? =A0I wouldn't but it is a possibility.
I thought of FrogJuice, but I think Oil based poly will do the job.
>
> I love wood but would never want it as a sink top.
This little top is more an accent than functional. The walls are green
glass, Lots of chrome, an emerald green toilet, a black slate floor...
get the picture? <G>
Rings? Shellac?
I took a tour of Wallace and Hinz
(http://www.wallaceandhinz.com/gallery/) last year. They make very cool
(expensive) bars and finish the tops with Spar varnish.. The tops are
solid wood over plywood with some kind of wax paper like layer between
them to reduce friction during expansion and contraction. Why spar
instead of poly, I don't know. Spar comes in gloss, semi-gloss and
satin at the hardware store here.
On 1/17/2010 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> I have a client who had a nice countertop made by a local cabinet shop.
> It is only 30" wide by 22" deep and is mostly covered by a square vessel
> bowl/sink.
> He built it out of 2 layers of particle board and veneered it with a
> nice thick slab of rosewood.
> He finished it with, who-knows-what and there were rings from glassware
> on the finish, but not into the veneer itself.
> The guy who made it is dead, so no info from him.
> So far, I Festooled down to the veneer, all is well, looks nice, etc.
>
> Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
> spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
> Shellac is out.
> Poly? That would give me a satin/semi-gloss option, but long exposure to
> a wet glass?
> Water based?
>
> My first choice would be Autocryl, but waaaaay too much money and hassle.
> What else does the wRECk Collective have in its bag of tricks?
>
> Any and all help will be appreciated.
>
> r
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:28:24 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Jan 17, 1:51 pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 1/17/2010 12:33 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>> > This is one I drew up for a customer to show her how awkward her
>> > proposed layout would look.
>> > She LOVED it!!... Oh well. They're hard to clean too..you need to wipe
>> > both sides of the bowl and get in between it and the
>> > countertop...naaaa, just a fad, me thinks..(hoping)
>> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Corner.jpg
>>
>> IMO, ditto for "farm" or apron sinks. They hang over the front edge of
>> the cabinet and water ends up on the floor and down the front of the
>> base cabint. Many, if not most, are designed with flat bottoms and flat
>> bottoms do NOT drain completely, no matter how level.
>>
>> --www.e-woodshop.net
>> Last update: 10/22/08
>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
>Not to mention those sharp inside corners on some of those
>'modernized' stainless farmer lookalikes. Oh, and now those sink-and-a-
>half without the partition. "Let's fill the WHOLE mofo up with hot
>water when we want to wash a single cup.
Smart folks leave a 3-quart bowl, often half filled with soapy water,
in the vast mofo sink for that purpose.
--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:41:30 -0500, Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Poly? That would give me a satin/semi-gloss option, but long exposure to
>a wet glass?
Here's a link to some good stuff. I've seen it used on commercial
jobs but at $120 a gallon we don't see it on residential.
http://www.bartopepoxy.com/?gclid=CJ6GupW3rJ8CFQUhDQod5ziO2A
Personally, I would use an oil based polyurethane. I have four coats
on my basement bar top. The top is a recycled maple bowling alley.
You can set a wet glass on it all day and not leave a mark. Just ask
my grand kids.;-)
Mike O.
In article <df8616d1-7e2e-403c-a6d7-297b7375e551
@t12g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
> > Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
> > spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
>
> Rub down the spar varnish with some 600 wet/dry or pumice to knock
> down the shine.
>
>
That was going to be my suggestion, but I'd use Behlens table top
varnish instead of spar. Spar is too soft.
On Jan 17, 7:34=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" wrote:
>
> I thought of FrogJuice, but I think Oil based poly will do the job.
> -------------------------------
> There is always Epithanes; however, from your description, may be
> overkill.
>
> Lew
There are no UV issues.
.
.
.
.
Jets win? WTF?
Robatoy wrote:
> I have a client who had a nice countertop made by a local cabinet
> shop. It is only 30" wide by 22" deep and is mostly covered by a
> square vessel bowl/sink.
> He built it out of 2 layers of particle board and veneered it with a
> nice thick slab of rosewood.
> He finished it with, who-knows-what and there were rings from
> glassware on the finish, but not into the veneer itself.
> The guy who made it is dead, so no info from him.
> So far, I Festooled down to the veneer, all is well, looks nice, etc.
>
> Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny)
Doesn't have to be...rub it out or add flattener. Any gloss you want. Spar
is soft, no particular advantage here IMO. Spar or regular, you need many
coats; normal for me was 6-8 brushed coats.
_____________
> Poly? That would give me a satin/semi-gloss option, but long exposure
> to a wet glass?
Poly is OK with water, doesn't like soap.
> Water based?
Same answer AFAIK. Not as pretty as oil base especially with rosewood or
other dark woods.
________________
> Any and all help will be appreciated.
Polyester resin? I wouldn't but it is a possibility.
I love wood but would never want it as a sink top.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Jan 17, 1:51=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1/17/2010 12:33 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > This is one I drew up for a customer to show her how awkward her
> > proposed layout would look.
> > She LOVED it!!... Oh well. They're hard to clean too..you need to wipe
> > both sides of the bowl and get in between it and the
> > countertop...naaaa, just a fad, me thinks..(hoping)
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Corner.jpg
>
> IMO, ditto for "farm" or apron sinks. They hang over the front edge of
> the cabinet and water ends up on the floor and down the front of the
> base cabint. Many, if not most, are designed with flat bottoms and flat
> bottoms do NOT drain completely, no matter how level.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Not to mention those sharp inside corners on some of those
'modernized' stainless farmer lookalikes. Oh, and now those sink-and-a-
half without the partition. "Let's fill the WHOLE mofo up with hot
water when we want to wash a single cup.
On Jan 17, 1:22=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>. =A0In any event,
> those "vessel on counter" sink things are an abomination.
>
> R
Thatsafursure. I make a lot of them for people, but I have yet to see
one I like.
This is one I drew up for a customer to show her how awkward her
proposed layout would look.
She LOVED it!!... Oh well. They're hard to clean too..you need to wipe
both sides of the bowl and get in between it and the
countertop...naaaa, just a fad, me thinks..(hoping)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Corner.jpg
On Jan 17, 11:41=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a client who had a nice countertop made by a local cabinet shop.
> It is only 30" wide by 22" deep and is mostly covered by a square vessel
> bowl/sink.
> He built it out of 2 layers of particle board and veneered it with a
> nice thick slab of rosewood.
> He finished it with, who-knows-what and there were rings from glassware
> on the finish, but not into the veneer itself.
> The guy who made it is dead, so no info from him.
> So far, I Festooled down to the veneer, all is well, looks nice, etc.
>
> Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
> spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
Rub down the spar varnish with some 600 wet/dry or pumice to knock
down the shine.
R
On 1/17/2010 12:33 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> This is one I drew up for a customer to show her how awkward her
> proposed layout would look.
> She LOVED it!!... Oh well. They're hard to clean too..you need to wipe
> both sides of the bowl and get in between it and the
> countertop...naaaa, just a fad, me thinks..(hoping)
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Corner.jpg
IMO, ditto for "farm" or apron sinks. They hang over the front edge of
the cabinet and water ends up on the floor and down the front of the
base cabint. Many, if not most, are designed with flat bottoms and flat
bottoms do NOT drain completely, no matter how level.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Jan 17, 1:07=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <df8616d1-7e2e-403c-a6d7-297b7375e551
> @t12g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
> > > Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want =
to
> > > spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
>
> > Rub down the spar varnish with some 600 wet/dry or pumice to knock
> > down the shine.
>
> That was going to be my suggestion, but I'd use Behlens table top
> varnish instead of spar. =A0Spar is too soft.
I've never used the Behlens, but I'd heard it was more difficult to
recoat/repair as the stuff was difficult to sand out smooth. Spar
varnish is definitely softer, but it is easy to repair. In any event,
those "vessel on counter" sink things are an abomination.
R
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:07:25 -0800, the infamous Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>In article <df8616d1-7e2e-403c-a6d7-297b7375e551
>@t12g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>> > Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
>> > spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
>>
>> Rub down the spar varnish with some 600 wet/dry or pumice to knock
>> down the shine.
>
>That was going to be my suggestion, but I'd use Behlens table top
>varnish instead of spar. Spar is too soft.
I used Behlen's Rockhard for my freebie (inherited via Rogue Valley
Recyclers) cheaparse oak veneer and termite barf dining set. I
refinished the table and chairs (Waterlox Satin + foam, batting and
cool new upholstery fabric, all fun except the sanding.)
It's the -one- time in my life I wante a truly glossy surface and it's
extremely glossy. I guess pumice or gray Scotchbrite would knock the
gloss off, though.
I definitely prefer the Behlen's to spar varnish. Spar stays tacky,
and I truly hate that. Both have a horrible feel. You can't feel the
wood underneath like you can Waterlox, Watco, or straight oils. Feh!
--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:22:35 -0800 (PST), the infamous RicodJour
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Jan 17, 1:07 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article <df8616d1-7e2e-403c-a6d7-297b7375e551
>> @t12g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> > > Now...spar varnish? (She thinks that would be too shiny) I will want to
>> > > spray it, so my (up to) 2.0 tip will handle thick stuff.
>>
>> > Rub down the spar varnish with some 600 wet/dry or pumice to knock
>> > down the shine.
>>
>> That was going to be my suggestion, but I'd use Behlens table top
>> varnish instead of spar. Spar is too soft.
>
>I've never used the Behlens, but I'd heard it was more difficult to
>recoat/repair as the stuff was difficult to sand out smooth. Spar
>varnish is definitely softer, but it is easy to repair. In any event,
>those "vessel on counter" sink things are an abomination.
Spar it. It'll fit right in. <evil grinne>
--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln