Best Saber Saw Blade for 1.5" Maple Bench Top?

On 02/11/2010 09:59 PM, Max wrote:

> I have the 1584 and a 1591 and I much prefer the older 1584.

This statement would be a lot more useful to others if you gave some
reasons for the preference.

Chris

"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9D1CCCADBEADFgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50...
> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into one
> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>
> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around my
> bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty ancient B&D
> saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade might be to A)
> minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk of scorching the
> maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to start, which will
> keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I can use a moderately
> wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam" ground blade on softer
> wood, but I have no idea what it will think of the maple. The saw uses
> the the old style blades with a hole, not thenewer Bosch T style.
>
> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>
> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White


Get a Bosch. {:-)

Max ( has two)

"Doug White" wrote:

> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets
> into one
> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
<snip>

As a point of reference, I have a Bosch 1587 saber saw BUT it would
not be my tool of choice for this task.

I would make a template from 1/4" ply, grab my handy dandy plunge
router equipped with a guide bushing and a 1/2" pattern bit, then go
to work.

If I were to use a saber saw, it would be to cut a hole leaving about
1/2" of material for router clean up.

BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.

Have fun.

Lew

"J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@cox.net> wrote in message
news:hl2g86020fl@news5.newsguy.com...
> Doug White wrote:
>> "Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b74ae7d$0$24273
>> $c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:
>>
>>>
>>> "Doug White" wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>>>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets
>>>> into one
>>>> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> As a point of reference, I have a Bosch 1587 saber saw BUT it would
>>> not be my tool of choice for this task.
>>>
>>> I would make a template from 1/4" ply, grab my handy dandy plunge
>>> router equipped with a guide bushing and a 1/2" pattern bit, then go
>>> to work.
>>>
>>> If I were to use a saber saw, it would be to cut a hole leaving about
>>> 1/2" of material for router clean up.
>>>
>>> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>>>
>>> Have fun.
>>
>> I'm actually planning on cleaning up the hole with my router & a
>> template, but that a lot of hardwood to go through with a router to
>> cut out the hole to begin with.
>>
>> I've been looking into the new saw option. Unfortunately, the last
>> time Fine Woodworking did a thorough comparison was issue #126, which
>> I figure was about 6 years ago. Even if I still had that issue, it's
>> seriously out of date.
>>
>> Bosch seems to be popular, and they have some new "clean" blades that
>> are supposed to cut really well. The price tag is also impressive,
>> although the long weekend might produce some good sales.
>
> Bosch has had clean cut blades for as long as I can remember (like, going
> back 30 years) that make a remarkably smooth cut. Also others that do
> rapid
> rough cuts and others that are specialized in various ways.
>
> Now, if you read that article in Fine Woodworking and then take a look at
> a
> Bosch 1590 you'll find that it is pretty much what their ideal design
> would
> be. Amazon has them in stock for under 150 bucks, which is the same
> ballpark as Milwaukee,
> DeWalt, and other high quality jigsaws.
>
> In power tools there's no other in which the difference between cheap and
> good is so radical as in jigsaws--if it's a tool you use regularly you'll
> be
> very happy that you spent the money.

I have the 1584 and a 1591 and I much prefer the older 1584.

Max

Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:
>
>
>>As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing. The
>>Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I usually find
>>a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The Bosch has the most
>>unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever seen.
>
>
> All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago and
> I couldn't believe the difference. They also make a blade with variable
> tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably clean cut
> for its aggressiveness.
>

I had and B&D when I used a friend's Bosch. I bought one the next day.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
novasys@verizon.net

"Chris Friesen" <cbf123@mail.usask.ca> wrote in message
news:4B7573AC.605@mail.usask.ca...
> On 02/11/2010 09:59 PM, Max wrote:
>
>> I have the 1584 and a 1591 and I much prefer the older 1584.
>
> This statement would be a lot more useful to others if you gave some
> reasons for the preference.
>
> Chris
>


The "barrel" of the 1584 is easier to grasp and maneuver for me. I just
like the feel better.
The 1591 has the "blower" feature but I haven't noticed that it has that
much effect.
I have learned over the years that the more "comfortable" a tool feels the
more one enjoys using it.
.......YMMV

Max

"Doug White" wrote:

> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works
> fine,
> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw,
> and
> then just clean things up with the router.
<snip>

If that P/C router can't handle cleaning up at least 1/4" of maple per
pass, probably time to look at a replacement.

Lew

"Doug White" wrote:

> Haven't tried it yet, but 1.5 inches of butcher block maple isn't
> like
> routing oak or walnut. This stuff is HARD. My Porter Cable is a 25
> year
> old 1 1/2 hp router. It's a good router, but it's no match for the
> 3
> horse monsters folks sell these days.

--------------------------------
Sounds like a 690 that I had.

Given a sharp cutter, I had no problen with cutting maple.

OTOH, if your cutter is not sharp, no so good.

If the maple burns, cutter needs to be sharpened.

Lew

"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote


> Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
> getting a new router. I'll just have to nibble away at it with my feeble
> old Porter Cable....
>
> Doug White


The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre saw
and the blades shown.
http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw#

No splinters. *very* little sanding required.

Max

"-MIKE-" <mike@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote in message
news:hl53mj$a4s$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre
>> saw and the blades shown.
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw#
>>
>> No splinters. *very* little sanding required.
>>
>> Max
>
>
> I don't know who makes them but the Bosch blades I've used have
> consistently been the best.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>


I have also had good results with Lennox blades.

Max

"-MIKE-" <mike@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote in message
news:hl5492$dq2$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> On 2/12/10 8:29 PM, Doug White wrote:
>>
>> Excellent. I just picked up a pack to T101BR blades, which are very
>> similar.
>>
>> Doug White
>
> I was going to suggest a reverse cut blade, but didn't know how much
> experience you have with a jigsaw.
>
> Normal, up-cut blades will pull the saw down tight against the surface of
> whatever you're cutting. Reverse blades will push the saw up, away from
> the surface. It can really catch you off guard. Make sure to push down
> on the saw when running.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>


Good advice. Another caution: It's easy to push the saw to one side or the
other while cutting, causing the blade to bend and you end up with an angled
cut. I used to wonder why it was happening to me and realized that in
attempting to follow a line, instead of "steering" the saw I tended to push
it slightly side ways. "Steer" the saw by moving the tail end.

Max (I hope that makes sense)

"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9D55A9F6E1E03gwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.7...
> Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in
> news:Xns9D1CCCADBEADFgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50:
>
>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into
>> one edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>>
>> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around
>> my bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty
>> ancient B&D saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade
>> might be to A) minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk
>> of scorching the maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to
>> start, which will keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I
>> can use a moderately wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam"
>> ground blade on softer wood, but I have no idea what it will think of
>> the maple. The saw uses the the old style blades with a hole, not
>> thenewer Bosch T style.
>>
>> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
>> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>>
>> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Well, I _finally_ got time to finish this job. I bought a new Bosch saw,
> and got some of the new "clean" blades to go with it. I used the biggest
> blade I had for extra rigidity.
>
> The results were very good, but not exactly perfect. Crosscutting was a
> dream. Nice stright cuts, no blade wander, and a smooth, accurate,
> vertical cut.
>
> Ripping was a different story. The blade bogged down a LOT. The sawdust
> blowing on my left hand (which was guiding the front of the saw) was HOT,
> and dark brown. I tried varying the speed & pressure, but never came up
> with a combination that cut especially well. The resulting cut was smooth
> & accurate, except that the blade flexed in the cut (fortunately, _into_
> the material to be removed) so that the cut wasn't vertical. Despite the
> hot sawdust, the cut was not particularly burned. Maybe "lightly toasted"
> is a better description. I'm going to clean it up with a router &
> template, so it's no big deal.
>
> All in all, the new saw is quite a success. Ripping 1.5" hard maple is
> definitely a chore, even for this puppy. I can't imagine what it would
> have been like trying to use my old Black & Decker saw with conventional
> blades. I'd probably still be at it.
>
Two thoughts.

That is a pretty small saw for cutting a maple bench top. So, the saw did
pretty good. Even if it was difficult on the rip cuts.

And now that you got that job out of the way, you got a great little saw for
a hundred other jobs! And those cuts will propbbly be much easier.

I haven't broke down and bought that saw yet. But I do make sure I have a
sharp blade in the saw for anything I do.

Doug White wrote:

>Ripping was a different story. The blade bogged down a LOT.
---------------------------------
Bosch makes a blade specifically for rip cuts.

From memory 5"-6" long, 3-4 TPI.

Problem probably solved.

Lew

On Feb 11, 5:07=A0pm, Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. =A0I need to cut two irregular pockets into o=
ne
> edge of the bench to mount equipment.

Treat it like a mortise; you can auger near the edges of the cutout,
use a
keyhole saw to connect the dots, then finish with a chisel. Power
tools
are OK, but sharp chisels make big chips and work fast.

> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew

ditto... the b+d will never cut 1.5 inches perpendicular - the bottom
of the cut will be wavy.

bosch for saw and blade is the way to go.

shelly

On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 22:34:01 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

>"Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b75bd1c$0$9307
>$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:
>
>>
>> "Doug White" wrote:
>>
>>> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works
>>> fine,
>>> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
>>> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw,
>>> and
>>> then just clean things up with the router.
>> <snip>
>>
>> If that P/C router can't handle cleaning up at least 1/4" of maple per
>> pass, probably time to look at a replacement.
>
>Haven't tried it yet, but 1.5 inches of butcher block maple isn't like
>routing oak or walnut. This stuff is HARD. My Porter Cable is a 25 year
>old 1 1/2 hp router. It's a good router, but it's no match for the 3
>horse monsters folks sell these days.

I've never had any trouble with my PC690. I have the 'D' handle base
and it's been a very good hand-held tool. The 3-HP monsters are good
in tables but too much to handle, IMO.

>Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
>getting a new router. I'll just have to nibble away at it with my feeble
>old Porter Cable....

As Lew suggests, just put a sharp bit in it and go easy.

<smandel@stny.rr.com> wrote in message
news:819c04e0-d3b0-44e0-926b-f3f847a0af91@a18g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>
>> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>>
>> Have fun.
>>
>> Lew
>
> ditto... the b+d will never cut 1.5 inches perpendicular - the
> bottom
> of the cut will be wavy.
>
> bosch for saw and blade is the way to go.
>
> shelly

I have the 18v DeWalt jigsaw and use the Bosch blades. It's one
fine combination.

--
Nonny
When we talk to God, we're praying,
but when God talks to us,
we're schizophrenic.
What's the deal?

Try before buying...most rental tool places carry the Bosch, which
is the king of jig saws in my opinion.

Doug White wrote:
> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into one
> edge of the bench to mount equipment.

> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?

"Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b74ae7d$0$24273
$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:

>
> "Doug White" wrote:
>
>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets
>> into one
>> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
> <snip>
>
> As a point of reference, I have a Bosch 1587 saber saw BUT it would
> not be my tool of choice for this task.
>
> I would make a template from 1/4" ply, grab my handy dandy plunge
> router equipped with a guide bushing and a 1/2" pattern bit, then go
> to work.
>
> If I were to use a saber saw, it would be to cut a hole leaving about
> 1/2" of material for router clean up.
>
> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>
> Have fun.

I'm actually planning on cleaning up the hole with my router & a
template, but that a lot of hardwood to go through with a router to cut
out the hole to begin with.

I've been looking into the new saw option. Unfortunately, the last time
Fine Woodworking did a thorough comparison was issue #126, which I figure
was about 6 years ago. Even if I still had that issue, it's seriously
out of date.

Bosch seems to be popular, and they have some new "clean" blades that are
supposed to cut really well. The price tag is also impressive, although
the long weekend might produce some good sales.

Doug White

"J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@cox.net> wrote in
news:hl2g86020fl@news5.newsguy.com:

> Doug White wrote:
>> "Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b74ae7d$0$24273
>> $c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:
>>
>>>
>>> "Doug White" wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5"
>>>> thick "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular
>>>> pockets into one
>>>> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> As a point of reference, I have a Bosch 1587 saber saw BUT it would
>>> not be my tool of choice for this task.
>>>
>>> I would make a template from 1/4" ply, grab my handy dandy plunge
>>> router equipped with a guide bushing and a 1/2" pattern bit, then go
>>> to work.
>>>
>>> If I were to use a saber saw, it would be to cut a hole leaving
>>> about 1/2" of material for router clean up.
>>>
>>> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>>>
>>> Have fun.
>>
>> I'm actually planning on cleaning up the hole with my router & a
>> template, but that a lot of hardwood to go through with a router to
>> cut out the hole to begin with.
>>
>> I've been looking into the new saw option. Unfortunately, the last
>> time Fine Woodworking did a thorough comparison was issue #126, which
>> I figure was about 6 years ago. Even if I still had that issue, it's
>> seriously out of date.
>>
>> Bosch seems to be popular, and they have some new "clean" blades that
>> are supposed to cut really well. The price tag is also impressive,
>> although the long weekend might produce some good sales.
>
> Bosch has had clean cut blades for as long as I can remember (like,
> going back 30 years) that make a remarkably smooth cut. Also others
> that do rapid rough cuts and others that are specialized in various
> ways.
>
> Now, if you read that article in Fine Woodworking and then take a look
> at a Bosch 1590 you'll find that it is pretty much what their ideal
> design would be. Amazon has them in stock for under 150 bucks, which
> is the same ballpark as Milwaukee,
> DeWalt, and other high quality jigsaws.
>
> In power tools there's no other in which the difference between cheap
> and good is so radical as in jigsaws--if it's a tool you use regularly
> you'll be very happy that you spent the money.

I looked into buying a 1590 locally (Boston area), and NOBODY has them in
stock. I finally caved & ordered one through Amazon. Ordinarily I
probably would have tried to make due with my old one, but all of the
fancy newer blades (which are supposed to be a big improvement) are in
the Bosch T style mount. I've looked in the local hardware stores, and
the choices for the old style blades with a hole are mostly junk.

As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing. The
Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I usually find a
lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The Bosch has the most
unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever seen.

Thanks!

Doug White

Larry Blanchard <lblanch@fastmail.fm> wrote in
news:hl3uiv$k26$1@speranza.aioe.org:

> On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:
>
>> As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing.
>> The Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I
>> usually find a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The
>> Bosch has the most unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever
>> seen.
>
> All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago
> and I couldn't believe the difference. They also make a blade with
> variable tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably
> clean cut for its aggressiveness.

That brings me back to the original question of which blade to use on
1.5" maple. The saw should be here tomorrow, but I was planning on
picking up the blades for the maple locally. They have roughly 40
options for wood:

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail
.aspx?pid=327

The working length of even the shortest ones will be OK, so that's not an
issue. They have a 4" "Speed for hardwood" blade that sounds
interesting. They also have "clean for wood" blades, as well as
"Precision" blades. The ones that are supposed to be splinter-free on
both sides are supposedly only for up to 3/4" thick, which is a good bit
less than the listed working length.

Anyone care to help whittle this down?

Thanks!

Doug White

-MIKE- <mike@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote in
news:hl46hj$ecn$1@news.eternal-september.org:

> On 2/12/10 11:30 AM, Doug White wrote:
>> That brings me back to the original question of which blade to use on
>> 1.5" maple. The saw should be here tomorrow, but I was planning on
>> picking up the blades for the maple locally. They have roughly 40
>> options for wood:
>>
>> http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDet
>> ail .aspx?pid=327
>>
>>
>> Doug White
>>
>
> Do you have a router?
> If so, I wouldn't worry about clean, I would go for fast...big
> aggressive teeth.
> Make a rough cutout, and a final, clean cut with the router.

That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works fine,
but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw, and
then just clean things up with the router. My concern with "big
aggressive teeth" is that it will be easy to overcut, and it will have
more chipout & splinters to deal with.

I'm off to the hardware store to buy mousetraps, and will check out their
blades while I'm there. Nothing like a first hand look to help narrow
the field.

Doug White

"Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b75bd1c$0$9307
$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:

>
> "Doug White" wrote:
>
>> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works
>> fine,
>> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
>> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw,
>> and
>> then just clean things up with the router.
> <snip>
>
> If that P/C router can't handle cleaning up at least 1/4" of maple per
> pass, probably time to look at a replacement.

Haven't tried it yet, but 1.5 inches of butcher block maple isn't like
routing oak or walnut. This stuff is HARD. My Porter Cable is a 25 year
old 1 1/2 hp router. It's a good router, but it's no match for the 3
horse monsters folks sell these days.

Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
getting a new router. I'll just have to nibble away at it with my feeble
old Porter Cable....

Doug White

"Max" <thesameoldme@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:4b760510$0$12621$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:

> "Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote
>
>
>> Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
>> getting a new router. I'll just have to nibble away at it with my
>> feeble old Porter Cable....
>>
>> Doug White
>
>
> The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre
> saw and the blades shown.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw#
>
> No splinters. *very* little sanding required.

Excellent. I just picked up a pack to T101BR blades, which are very
similar.

Doug White

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in
news:Xns9D1DDAA79C94Fgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.7:

> "Max" <thesameoldme@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
> news:4b760510$0$12621$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:
>
>> "Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote
>>
>>
>>> Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
>>> getting a new router. I'll just have to nibble away at it with my
>>> feeble old Porter Cable....
>>>
>>> Doug White
>>
>>
>> The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre
>> saw and the blades shown.
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw#
>>
>> No splinters. *very* little sanding required.
>
> Excellent. I just picked up a pack to T101BR blades, which are very
> similar.

I just fired up my new Bosch saw with the T101BR blades for the first
time. The maple bench top will have to wait until next weekend, but I
used the saw on some Melamine laminate shelves this afternoon.

WOW! The saw is fantastic, and the blades are amazing. I could very
easily cut with far greater precision than I ever imagined possible with
a saber saw. The noise & vibration were much less than with my ancient
Black & Decker. The "clean" blades worked great, with almost zero chip-
out on the thin Melamine.

I can see this combination being used for all sorts of things.

Doug White

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in
news:Xns9D1CCCADBEADFgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50:

> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into
> one edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>
> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around
> my bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty
> ancient B&D saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade
> might be to A) minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk
> of scorching the maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to
> start, which will keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I
> can use a moderately wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam"
> ground blade on softer wood, but I have no idea what it will think of
> the maple. The saw uses the the old style blades with a hole, not
> thenewer Bosch T style.
>
> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>
> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.

Well, I _finally_ got time to finish this job. I bought a new Bosch saw,
and got some of the new "clean" blades to go with it. I used the biggest
blade I had for extra rigidity.

The results were very good, but not exactly perfect. Crosscutting was a
dream. Nice stright cuts, no blade wander, and a smooth, accurate,
vertical cut.

Ripping was a different story. The blade bogged down a LOT. The sawdust
blowing on my left hand (which was guiding the front of the saw) was HOT,
and dark brown. I tried varying the speed & pressure, but never came up
with a combination that cut especially well. The resulting cut was smooth
& accurate, except that the blade flexed in the cut (fortunately, _into_
the material to be removed) so that the cut wasn't vertical. Despite the
hot sawdust, the cut was not particularly burned. Maybe "lightly toasted"
is a better description. I'm going to clean it up with a router &
template, so it's no big deal.

All in all, the new saw is quite a success. Ripping 1.5" hard maple is
definitely a chore, even for this puppy. I can't imagine what it would
have been like trying to use my old Black & Decker saw with conventional
blades. I'd probably still be at it.

Thanks for all the suggestions & info.

Doug White

Larry Jaques <ljaques@diversify.invalid> wrote in
news:ae10s5df6ie0ne36arthdvns604bss4tvl@4ax.com:

> On Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:42:28 GMT, the infamous Doug White
> <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> scrawled the following:
>
>>Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in
>>news:Xns9D1CCCADBEADFgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50:
>>
>>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets
>>> into one edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>>>
>>> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around
>>> my bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty
>>> ancient B&D saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade
>>> might be to A) minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the
>>> risk of scorching the maple. I was planning on drilling out the
>>> corners to start, which will keep most of the cuts fairly straight.
>>> That way I can use a moderately wide blade. I've had good luck with
>>> a "fleam" ground blade on softer wood, but I have no idea what it
>>> will think of the maple. The saw uses the the old style blades with
>>> a hole, not thenewer Bosch T style.
>>>
>>> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper
>>> new saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>>>
>>> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>>Well, I _finally_ got time to finish this job. I bought a new Bosch
>>saw, and got some of the new "clean" blades to go with it. I used the
>>biggest blade I had for extra rigidity.
>>
>>The results were very good, but not exactly perfect. Crosscutting was
>>a dream. Nice stright cuts, no blade wander, and a smooth, accurate,
>>vertical cut.
>>
>>Ripping was a different story. The blade bogged down a LOT. The
>>sawdust
>
> Were you using a RIP blade? If not, it'll cut very slowly and you'll
> get hot, brown sawdust on you. Oh, sometimes it smokes, too. ;)

That sounds about right. I was cutting out a couple rectangular indents
in one edge of the bench top. I hadn't expected to have to swap blades
back & forth in the middle of things, so I didn't use a rip blade.
Sounds like I should pick up a couple.

Doug White

On Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:42:28 GMT, the infamous Doug White
<gwhite@alum.mit.edu> scrawled the following:

>Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in
>news:Xns9D1CCCADBEADFgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50:
>
>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into
>> one edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>>
>> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around
>> my bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty
>> ancient B&D saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade
>> might be to A) minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk
>> of scorching the maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to
>> start, which will keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I
>> can use a moderately wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam"
>> ground blade on softer wood, but I have no idea what it will think of
>> the maple. The saw uses the the old style blades with a hole, not
>> thenewer Bosch T style.
>>
>> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
>> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>>
>> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Well, I _finally_ got time to finish this job. I bought a new Bosch saw,
>and got some of the new "clean" blades to go with it. I used the biggest
>blade I had for extra rigidity.
>
>The results were very good, but not exactly perfect. Crosscutting was a
>dream. Nice stright cuts, no blade wander, and a smooth, accurate,
>vertical cut.
>
>Ripping was a different story. The blade bogged down a LOT. The sawdust

Were you using a RIP blade? If not, it'll cut very slowly and you'll
get hot, brown sawdust on you. Oh, sometimes it smokes, too. ;)

--
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace
will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will
blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,
while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.
-- John Muir

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:29:45 GMT, the infamous Doug White
<gwhite@alum.mit.edu> scrawled the following:

>Larry Jaques <ljaques@diversify.invalid> wrote in
>news:ae10s5df6ie0ne36arthdvns604bss4tvl@4ax.com:
>> Were you using a RIP blade? If not, it'll cut very slowly and you'll
>> get hot, brown sawdust on you. Oh, sometimes it smokes, too. ;)
>
>That sounds about right. I was cutting out a couple rectangular indents
>in one edge of the bench top. I hadn't expected to have to swap blades
>back & forth in the middle of things, so I didn't use a rip blade.
>Sounds like I should pick up a couple.

It makes all the difference in the world.

--
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace
will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will
blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,
while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.
-- John Muir

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> writes:
>I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>"butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into one
>edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>
>The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around my
>bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty ancient B&D
>saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade might be to A)
>minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk of scorching the
>maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to start, which will
>keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I can use a moderately
>wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam" ground blade on softer
>wood, but I have no idea what it will think of the maple. The saw uses
>the the old style blades with a hole, not thenewer Bosch T style.
>
>Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
>saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>
>Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd handsaw the end crosscuts, then handsaw (or sabersaw) a series
of crosscuts between them and chisel out the waste.

scott

On Feb 12, 12:30=A0pm, Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> Larry Blanchard <lbla...@fastmail.fm> wrote innews:hl3uiv$k26$1@speranza.=
aioe.org:
>
> > On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:
>
> >> As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing.
> >> The Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. =A0It's odd, because I
> >> usually find a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. =A0The
> >> Bosch has the most unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever
> >> seen.
>
> > All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago
> > and I couldn't believe the difference. =A0They also make a blade with
> > variable tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably
> > clean cut for its aggressiveness.
>
> That brings me back to the original question of which blade to use on
> 1.5" maple. =A0The saw should be here tomorrow, but I was planning on
> picking up the blades for the maple locally. =A0They have roughly 40
> options for wood:
>
> http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDe...
> .aspx?pid=3D327
>
> The working length of even the shortest ones will be OK, so that's not an
> issue. =A0They have a 4" "Speed for hardwood" blade that sounds
> interesting. =A0They also have "clean for wood" blades, as well as
> "Precision" blades. =A0The ones that are supposed to be splinter-free on
> both sides are supposedly only for up to 3/4" thick, which is a good bit
> less than the listed working length.
>
> Anyone care to help whittle this down?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White

get a blade w/lotsa teeth, and go slowly. Put a piece of plywood under
the bench to avoid tearout on the bottom. get a 3" blade

shelly

On Feb 12, 5:34=A0pm, Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <sails.m...@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b75bd1c$0$9307
> $c3e8...@news.astraweb.com:
>
>
>
> > "Doug White" wrote:
>
> >> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works
> >> fine,
> >> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. =A0My hope was to cut it
> >> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw,
> >> and
> >> then just clean things up with the router.
> > <snip>
>
> > If that P/C router can't handle cleaning up at least 1/4" of maple per
> > pass, probably time to look at a replacement.
>
> Haven't tried it yet, but 1.5 inches of butcher block maple isn't like
> routing oak or walnut. =A0This stuff is HARD. =A0My Porter Cable is a 25 =
year
> old 1 1/2 hp router. =A0It's a good router, but it's no match for the 3
> horse monsters folks sell these days.
>
> Having just shelled out for a new jigsaw, I don't think I can justify
> getting a new router. =A0I'll just have to nibble away at it with my feeb=
le
> old Porter Cable....
>
> Doug White

It would be more helpful, and save our time, if you just posted your
financial particulars. that way we could help you make good FINANCIAL
tool decisions as well - maybe even a whole new shop to go with the
new bench!

shelly

On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 12:10:19 -0500, Nova <novasys@verizon.net> wrote:

>Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:
>>
>>
>>>As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing. The
>>>Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I usually find
>>>a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The Bosch has the most
>>>unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever seen.
>>
>>
>> All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago and
>> I couldn't believe the difference. They also make a blade with variable
>> tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably clean cut
>> for its aggressiveness.
>>
>
>I had and B&D when I used a friend's Bosch. I bought one the next day.

I had a Crapsman that I hated from the day I bought it. Two years ago
I bought a 1590 and didn't use it for a year. When I finally got to a
project that I really needed a jig saw I dreaded taking the thing out.
What a surprise! I don't dread using a jig saw anymore. ;-)

Doug White wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net> wrote in news:4b74ae7d$0$24273
> $c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com:
>
>>
>> "Doug White" wrote:
>>
>>> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>>> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets
>>> into one
>>> edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>> <snip>
>>
>> As a point of reference, I have a Bosch 1587 saber saw BUT it would
>> not be my tool of choice for this task.
>>
>> I would make a template from 1/4" ply, grab my handy dandy plunge
>> router equipped with a guide bushing and a 1/2" pattern bit, then go
>> to work.
>>
>> If I were to use a saber saw, it would be to cut a hole leaving about
>> 1/2" of material for router clean up.
>>
>> BTW, great excuse to buy a real saber saw.
>>
>> Have fun.
>
> I'm actually planning on cleaning up the hole with my router & a
> template, but that a lot of hardwood to go through with a router to
> cut out the hole to begin with.
>
> I've been looking into the new saw option. Unfortunately, the last
> time Fine Woodworking did a thorough comparison was issue #126, which
> I figure was about 6 years ago. Even if I still had that issue, it's
> seriously out of date.
>
> Bosch seems to be popular, and they have some new "clean" blades that
> are supposed to cut really well. The price tag is also impressive,
> although the long weekend might produce some good sales.

Bosch has had clean cut blades for as long as I can remember (like, going
back 30 years) that make a remarkably smooth cut. Also others that do rapid
rough cuts and others that are specialized in various ways.

Now, if you read that article in Fine Woodworking and then take a look at a
Bosch 1590 you'll find that it is pretty much what their ideal design would
be. Amazon has them in stock for under 150 bucks, which is the same
ballpark as Milwaukee,
DeWalt, and other high quality jigsaws.

In power tools there's no other in which the difference between cheap and
good is so radical as in jigsaws--if it's a tool you use regularly you'll be
very happy that you spent the money.

On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:

> As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing. The
> Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I usually find
> a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The Bosch has the most
> unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever seen.

All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago and
I couldn't believe the difference. They also make a blade with variable
tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably clean cut
for its aggressiveness.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Doug White wrote:
> I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
> "butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into
> one edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>
> The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around
> my bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty
> ancient B&D saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade
> might be to A) minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk
> of scorching the maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners
> to start, which will keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way
> I can use a moderately wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam"
> ground blade on softer wood, but I have no idea what it will think of
> the maple. The saw uses the the old style blades with a hole, not
> thenewer Bosch T style.
>
> Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
> saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>
> Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White

i'd use my tripod drill with a forstner bit.

http://glasscuttingwheels.com/tripod-glass-drill.html

i suppose you don't have a tripod drill. most glass shops have one. they'd
probably drill this out for a few dollars for you.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.com/ChaniArts

On 2/12/10 11:30 AM, Doug White wrote:
> That brings me back to the original question of which blade to use on
> 1.5" maple. The saw should be here tomorrow, but I was planning on
> picking up the blades for the maple locally. They have roughly 40
> options for wood:
>
> http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail
> .aspx?pid=327
>
>
> Doug White
>

Do you have a router?
If so, I wouldn't worry about clean, I would go for fast...big
aggressive teeth.
Make a rough cutout, and a final, clean cut with the router.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/12/10 2:29 PM, Doug White wrote:
>> Do you have a router?
>> If so, I wouldn't worry about clean, I would go for fast...big
>> aggressive teeth.
>> Make a rough cutout, and a final, clean cut with the router.
>
> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works fine,
> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw, and
> then just clean things up with the router. My concern with "big
> aggressive teeth" is that it will be easy to overcut, and it will have
> more chipout& splinters to deal with.
>
> I'm off to the hardware store to buy mousetraps, and will check out their
> blades while I'm there. Nothing like a first hand look to help narrow
> the field.
>
> Doug White

I wouldn't worry about getting it super close. 1/8-1/4" should be fine.
In my experience, any router with a decent straight bit can easily cut
1/2 the radius in one pass. If you have a 1/2" chuck and 1/2" bit,
1/4" will be butter, even in maple that deep.

If you're concerned with tear-out, cut from the bottom.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/12/10 2:42 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Doug White" wrote:
>
>> That's the plan, but my router is an old Porter Cable that works
>> fine,
>> but isn't up to hogging out a ton of maple. My hope was to cut it
>> reasonably close (within a 1/16th of an inch or so) with the saw,
>> and
>> then just clean things up with the router.
> <snip>
>
> If that P/C router can't handle cleaning up at least 1/4" of maple per
> pass, probably time to look at a replacement.
>
> Lew
>

Oops, ya beat me to it. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

> --------------------------------
> Sounds like a 690 that I had.
>
> Given a sharp cutter, I had no problen with cutting maple.
>
> OTOH, if your cutter is not sharp, no so good.
>
> If the maple burns, cutter needs to be sharpened.
>
> Lew
>

I agree, it's all in the "blade."

You can test the shapness of a straight router bit by sliding it across
your finger nail like a scraper. *be carefull* You can slice into your
thumb pretty good.

Lightly scrape (perpendicular to the blade) down the fingernail and you
should see a shaving curl up. If you have to push too hard or it skips,
the blade is dull.

You *can* sharpen up straight bits on a flat stone (or equiv.) and it's
worth a try, but they are pretty cheap to begin with, so I usually toss
them and buy new.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Doug White wrote:
> Larry Blanchard <lblanch@fastmail.fm> wrote in
> news:hl3uiv$k26$1@speranza.aioe.org:
>
>> On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:46:14 +0000, Doug White wrote:
>>
>>> As I get older, the vibration from the B&D also gets more wearing.
>>> The Bosch is supposed to be super smooth. It's odd, because I
>>> usually find a lot of mixed opinions when I go tool shopping. The
>>> Bosch has the most unanimous praise of any tool I think I've ever
>>> seen.
>>
>> All I can say is that I replaced a B&D with a Bosch several years ago
>> and I couldn't believe the difference. They also make a blade with
>> variable tooth pitch (I can't recall the name) that does a remarkably
>> clean cut for its aggressiveness.
>
> That brings me back to the original question of which blade to use on
> 1.5" maple. The saw should be here tomorrow, but I was planning on
> picking up the blades for the maple locally. They have roughly 40
> options for wood:
>
> http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail
> .aspx?pid=327
>
> The working length of even the shortest ones will be OK, so that's
> not an issue. They have a 4" "Speed for hardwood" blade that sounds
> interesting. They also have "clean for wood" blades, as well as
> "Precision" blades. The ones that are supposed to be splinter-free on
> both sides are supposedly only for up to 3/4" thick, which is a good
> bit less than the listed working length.
>
> Anyone care to help whittle this down?

I'd go with the T101DP, T144DP, T344DP (note--the "P" matters). The thinner
blades can wander a bit in angle in thick material, that one is designed to
be stiff enough to not have that problem. Beyond that, get a 5 or 10 piece
blade assortment and a 3 piece assortment and experiment and you'll get an
idea what the different blades do.

>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White

> The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre
> saw and the blades shown.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw#
>
> No splinters. *very* little sanding required.
>
> Max


I don't know who makes them but the Bosch blades I've used have
consistently been the best.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/12/10 8:29 PM, Doug White wrote:
>
> Excellent. I just picked up a pack to T101BR blades, which are very
> similar.
>
> Doug White

I was going to suggest a reverse cut blade, but didn't know how much
experience you have with a jigsaw.

Normal, up-cut blades will pull the saw down tight against the surface
of whatever you're cutting. Reverse blades will push the saw up, away
from the surface. It can really catch you off guard. Make sure to push
down on the saw when running.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

>>
>> I don't know who makes them but the Bosch blades I've used have
>> consistently been the best.
>>
>
> I have also had good results with Lennox blades.
>
> Max


I bet they're made by the same company.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/12/10 9:14 PM, Max wrote:
> Good advice. Another caution: It's easy to push the saw to one side or
> the other while cutting, causing the blade to bend and you end up with
> an angled cut. I used to wonder why it was happening to me and realized
> that in attempting to follow a line, instead of "steering" the saw I
> tended to push it slightly side ways. "Steer" the saw by moving the tail
> end.
>
> Max (I hope that makes sense)


Makes perfect sense. There should be less tendency for an angled cut
with these blades. IIRC, down-cut blades are thicker than normal to
prevent bowing/bending because the stress is in the push stroke.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
: Anyone care to help whittle this down?

Bosch introducd a ne line in 2008 (one of many review links is below),
and they really are the best blades by far I've ever used. Really
clean cuts, top and bottom.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bt308brvu.html

-- Ady Barss

On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 01:07:15 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

I am very happy with my $20 recip saw from good ol' Harbor freight..
Put a decent blade in it, like a dewalt or something, and give your jig saw a
break.. YMWV

>I'm building a special work bench, using one of Grizzly's 1.5" thick
>"butcher block" bench tops. I need to cut two irregular pockets into one
>edge of the bench to mount equipment.
>
>The top is 25" x 48", and way too big (and heavy) to manuever around my
>bandsaw. I'm assuming the best approach is to use my trusty ancient B&D
>saber saw. I'm wondering which the best sort of blade might be to A)
>minimize the load on the saw, and B) minimize the risk of scorching the
>maple. I was planning on drilling out the corners to start, which will
>keep most of the cuts fairly straight. That way I can use a moderately
>wide blade. I've had good luck with a "fleam" ground blade on softer
>wood, but I have no idea what it will think of the maple. The saw uses
>the the old style blades with a hole, not thenewer Bosch T style.
>
>Alternatively, should I use this as an excuse to buy a super-duper new
>saber saw? If so, what should I look for?
>
>Any ideas, warnings or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Doug White


mac

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