Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
tablesaw.
Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just
want to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
So ....
Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt
that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck,
I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
Thx!
Jack
I've got a Jet contractors upgraded to a grizzly 2hp motor. I've had
the motor stall out on 3/4 cherry that pinched the blade a couple of
times. It also works really hard on 3" cuts anytime.
When you start to bevel cut the, the extra hp comes in real handy.
That 1.5" thick stuff become much thicker in a bevel.
So if you can afford the extra dough, an upgrade would be good.
A larger motor will pull:
a) a wider blade through stock
b) a blade with more teeth -- thus a cleaner cut, depending on other
factors
c) will cut through stock not completely dry.
I'm moving to a national forest in 3 weeks. When I ordered my General
350 TS 6 weeks ago, the tool dealer tried to talk me out of a bigger
motor. He was trying to save me money. When I told him I'd be
harvesting timber from time to time, he said, "OK. Get a 5hp. It's only
$125 more".
If any of these factors are important to you, get a bigger motor.
GC in L.A.
There's a lot more to the power capability than simply upgrading the
motor. For one, I doubt the single belt drive on a contractors saw
would be up to transmitting the power from a 3 hp motor. That's why
most cabinet saws have 2 and 3 belt drive systems. I think your
comment was ill advised. If you want to upgrade, sell the current saw
and buy a new one.
Bob
"> So ....
>
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt that
> I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck, I'm not
> even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
As stated above, for thicker wood stock, but really, what it comes down to
is that if and when you do come across a need to cut thick stock, even if it
is only once, its good to have more HP than not enough. And as you progress
your woodworking hobby, you will probably start using thicker material on a
more regular basis.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor
OnlineToolReviews.com
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/IncraMiterExpress.htm
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http://onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/ozitometalcuttingsaw.htm
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I have a 2 HP Grizzly contractor saw wired for 220 and cut 3" sugar maple
without any problems.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
> tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
> tablesaw.
>
> Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just want
> to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
> equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
>
> The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
> Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
> satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
>
> So ....
>
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt that
> I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck, I'm not
> even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
>
> Thx!
>
> Jack
>
"xcz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As stated above, for thicker wood stock, but really, what it comes down to
> is that if and when you do come across a need to cut thick stock, even if
> it is only once, its good to have more HP than not enough. And as you
> progress your woodworking hobby, you will probably start using thicker
> material on a more regular basis.
For which you will already own a bandsaw.
1.5 is enough. Thousands and thousands of them out there. The number is
chosen so they can operate on a "standard" 15A 115 circuit.
Extra is nice, but so rarely necessary that you'll easily find workarounds.
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:R35gf.3572$dv.270@fed1read02...
>
>> Contrary to popular belief, small motors are not rated by output
>> horsepower.
>> They are rated by input horsepower, how much power they consume. This, of
>> course, allows variation of actual output according to motor efficiency
>> but,
>> for reasonable quality motors of the same type, there is not a lot of
>> efficiency difference. Volts * amps / 746
>
>
> Alright, volts (#) times amps (#) divided by 746 equals actual horsepower?
>
No to both. Power consumption is one way of rating. So many watts.
Doesn't tell how well they are converted to energy.
Power output another. Some go with "developed" HP, which is pretty
optimistic.
What's on the nameplate is generally pretty good.
This a good thing to read.
http://www.iprocessmart.com/leeson/leeson_electrical_reference.htm
"Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yBegf.12559$a62.12024@trnddc07...
> Well, since they are selling on e-bay as "Old, Rare, Vintage, Antique
> Slide Rule - L@@K!", you must be an Antique. Wait a minute, I started
> with a slide rule. Guess that makes me an Antique too!
>
> Unfortunately there are a zillion of them out there. Slide Rules, that
> is.
I still have a couple of the less common circular types. Also an old
celestial computer, though the epoch is a few back. Wonder if there's a
market on e-b for them?
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>>
>> I still have a couple of the less common circular types.
>
> They still sell circular slide rules every day!
>
> <http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?DID=19&CATID=171&Product_ID=1197&count=1&Pcount=2&DETAIL=1>
>
Ayup, my old Jeppeson CR-3 lived in the lower left leg pocket of my flight
suit for years. It's only incidentally a slide rule, however. I liked it
because it had both polar and rectangular drift methods on the wind face.
http://aviationaccessories.net/pro36406.html
The aluminum E6B type Sam gave me was unnecessarily bulky, and you had to
slip and slide....
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
> tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
> tablesaw.
The extra power is nice as you will not find any wood that slows the motor
down on a 3 hp model. Also consider that you are going to have to go to a
Cabinet saw to get a 3 hp motor that runs on 220 volts. You may find a TS
that claims 3hp on 110 volts but the company building that saw also builds
Vaccuum cleaners that have 6 hp and also run on 110 volts. Plain and
simple for the typical TS you are gong to have to go 220 volt and a cabinet
saw to get 3hp.
> Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just want
> to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
> equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
If you buy a Cabinet saw, you "can" plan on cutting any wood of any
thickness and not worry about stalling the motor.
> The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
> Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
> satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with these saws. I used a TS with 1 hp
for 17 years.
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt that
> I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck, I'm not
> even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
Even cutting 3/4" Maple you can stall or burn the wood if you have to slow
the feed rate because of the smaller hp ratings.
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net (in
[email protected]) said:
| Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I
| doubt that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1
| 1/2". Heck, I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
Bevel cuts in hardwoods, dadoing, maintaining feed rates in
easy-to-burn woods like cherry.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
On 19 Nov 2005 09:03:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Andy, what relevance is starting torque on a table saw (or any
>woodcutting saw for that matter)?
It's not the "starting" torque on a saw, although it's hard to give a
simple phrase for it. A universal motor compared to an induction motor
has a torque curve that gives maximum torque at minimum speed, hence the
high starting torque for applications that need it.
In a sawbench, then the time you need torque is to avoid the blade
slowing in a heavy rip. Although you're not down to zero speed, you're
certainly into the range where a universal motor may well have more
torque than an induction motor that's nominally quite a bit more
powerful.
On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 22:47:26 -0700, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
>tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
>tablesaw.
I currently have a 3HP General 650.
For six years, I worked with a 1 1/2 HP Jet contractors saw. I never
felt the Jet was underpowered. To rip thick hardwoods, simply make
sure you've got a sharp 24T _ripping_ blade, and feed accordingly.
Why did I upgrade from the Jet? The cabinet saw has a left tilt, a
bigger table, easier tuning adjustments, a 52" fence, lots more
vibration damping weight, and better (but still not GREAT) dust
collection. The cabinet saw stays put when cutting vary large stock.
I found myself chasing the contractor's saw around the shop on a few
occasions. <G>
If you can get a used Jet or Delta 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw for
about 1/2 of the new price, with a good fence, you'd be fine for a
long time. The perfect score would be the same saw with all cast
wings, no stamped sheet metal wings. For about $300, you'd be able to
use the saw for years, and probably sell it for near what you paid for
it, _IF_ you want to upgrade.
Your buddy is snobbing you. <G>
Barry
I have a vintage Unisaw with a 1HP Repulsion-Induction motor (the
bullet). My blade is a Forrest WWII and I recently had to do some
cuts on a bunch of 4 X 4 PT pieces which included ripping them to an
exact 3" width. Nary a hiccup, although they are not oak. Still,
there's horsepower, and then there's horse-power.
If you're buying a (new) cabinet saw, 3HP should be the minimum. If
it's a contractor saw with a single (normal) belt, I think 1½ HP would
work out OK for most homeowner stuff, but if you're thinking hybrid
(like a Craftsman zip code saw)... I'd imagine the wider, serpentine
belt would help on anything really tough.
For the money you'd spend on a "better" contractor-style saw, you can
often find a quality used cabinet saw. But you have to have some
patience to wait out the best buys. Even if a minor rebuild is
necessary, you'll wind up with a saw that looks and cuts like a $2000
new saw and it'd be hard to spend $900 on a decent used cabinet saw.
On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 22:47:26 -0700, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
>tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
>tablesaw.
>
>Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just
>want to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
>equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
>
>The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
>Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
>satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
>
>So ....
>
>Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt
>that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck,
>I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
>
>Thx!
>
>Jack
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
> tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
> tablesaw.
>
> Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just want
> to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
> equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
Well, if you've got the lucre to throw at it, I can't think of any reason
not to buy a higher-powered saw. OTOH, if cost is an issue, get the lower
powered one, and you can always upgrade the motor down the road if you're so
inclined.
> 143 7/8 horsepower. If you go as low as 143 3/4, you will not be able to
> produce any serious work whatsoever.
> Seriously, I have a 1 horse saw. I have ripped 2 inch thick liptus using a
> combo blade. Had to be careful about feed rate but didn't have any problem
> with it. More power would be nice but this works.
>
That's sounds alright and workin, but how does one find_out the exact horse power of a motor?
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> Contrary to popular belief, small motors are not rated by output horsepower.
> They are rated by input horsepower, how much power they consume. This, of
> course, allows variation of actual output according to motor efficiency but,
> for reasonable quality motors of the same type, there is not a lot of
> efficiency difference. Volts * amps / 746
Alright, volts (#) times amps (#) divided by 746 equals actual horsepower?
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
143 7/8 horsepower. If you go as low as 143 3/4, you will not be able to
produce any serious work whatsoever.
Seriously, I have a 1 horse saw. I have ripped 2 inch thick liptus using a
combo blade. Had to be careful about feed rate but didn't have any problem
with it. More power would be nice but this works.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
> tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
> tablesaw.
>
> Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just
> want to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
> equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
>
> The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
> Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
> satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
>
> So ....
>
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt
> that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck,
> I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
>
> Thx!
>
> Jack
>
I went from an old Craftsman 8" TS with a 3/4 hp motor to a new 3 hp
Unisaw. Never tried to cut 2" hardwood on the Craftsman, but I never
felt it was inadequately powered. For really tough tasks with the 1 1/2
hp motor, you might consider using an 8" blade which does not require as
much torque (depth of cut permitting). Usually, feeding slower is a
satisfactory solution. A first-rate blade always makes a big difference
on more challenging cuts. Also, hardwood cutting is somewhat less
tolerant of misaligned miter gauges and fences.
BTW, that Craftsman was such a convenient tool that I kept it when I
bought the Unisaw. Sadly had to sell both.
Chuck
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 22:47:26 -0700, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
>>tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
>>tablesaw.
>
>
> I currently have a 3HP General 650.
>
> For six years, I worked with a 1 1/2 HP Jet contractors saw. I never
> felt the Jet was underpowered. To rip thick hardwoods, simply make
> sure you've got a sharp 24T _ripping_ blade, and feed accordingly.
>
> Why did I upgrade from the Jet? The cabinet saw has a left tilt, a
> bigger table, easier tuning adjustments, a 52" fence, lots more
> vibration damping weight, and better (but still not GREAT) dust
> collection. The cabinet saw stays put when cutting vary large stock.
> I found myself chasing the contractor's saw around the shop on a few
> occasions. <G>
>
> If you can get a used Jet or Delta 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw for
> about 1/2 of the new price, with a good fence, you'd be fine for a
> long time. The perfect score would be the same saw with all cast
> wings, no stamped sheet metal wings. For about $300, you'd be able to
> use the saw for years, and probably sell it for near what you paid for
> it, _IF_ you want to upgrade.
>
> Your buddy is snobbing you. <G>
>
> Barry
Contrary to popular belief, small motors are not rated by output horsepower.
They are rated by input horsepower, how much power they consume. This, of
course, allows variation of actual output according to motor efficiency but,
for reasonable quality motors of the same type, there is not a lot of
efficiency difference. Volts * amps / 746
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Gb1gf.3548$dv.850@fed1read02...
>
> > 143 7/8 horsepower. If you go as low as 143 3/4, you will not be able to
> > produce any serious work whatsoever.
> > Seriously, I have a 1 horse saw. I have ripped 2 inch thick liptus using
a
> > combo blade. Had to be careful about feed rate but didn't have any
problem
> > with it. More power would be nice but this works.
> >
>
> That's sounds alright and workin, but how does one find_out the exact
horse power of a motor?
>
> --
> Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 08:09:01 -0800, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 143 7/8 horsepower. If you go as low as 143 3/4, you will not be able to
>> produce any serious work whatsoever.
>> Seriously, I have a 1 horse saw. I have ripped 2 inch thick liptus using a
>> combo blade. Had to be careful about feed rate but didn't have any problem
>> with it. More power would be nice but this works.
>>
>
>That's sounds alright and workin, but how does one find_out the exact horse power of a motor?
you don't.
there are so many ways to calculate horsepower that the term is almost
meaningless. a much more useful number for small power tools is watts.
On 19 Nov 2005 08:58:52 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>That's why most cabinet saws have 2 and 3 belt drive systems.
Old cabinet saws have multiple belts. Modern belt designs can put this
same power through a single belt. Polygroove belts are also thinner and
more flexible, leading to less power loss and less vibration.
It's getting so that it's actually difficult to buy a triple pulley!
>
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed?
Short answer, No.
As others have said there are some scenarios where it can be very handy. To
mitigate the problems associated with a marginally underpowered saw: you can
do the following:
1. Tune your saw well
2. Use a sharp blade
3. Use a thin kerf blade
4. Use the right blade type: e.g., rip blade, with a lower tooth count
5. For a really big cut, take multiple passes.
Just about every here has owned/used a 1.5 HP contractors saw at some point
and we all know they can produce fine work.
-Steve
Yes, (before anybody jumps in to say it, yes, 1 horsepower is actually equal
to 745.6998 watts. Also, power factor has little use in this context).
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:R35gf.3572$dv.270@fed1read02...
>
> > Contrary to popular belief, small motors are not rated by output
horsepower.
> > They are rated by input horsepower, how much power they consume. This,
of
> > course, allows variation of actual output according to motor efficiency
but,
> > for reasonable quality motors of the same type, there is not a lot of
> > efficiency difference. Volts * amps / 746
>
>
> Alright, volts (#) times amps (#) divided by 746 equals actual horsepower?
>
> --
> Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 22:47:26 -0700, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
>tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
>tablesaw.
Reasonable enough.
It's a question of torque as well. A brush (universal) motor has higher
starting torque than an induction motor. So a satisfactory experience
with a cheap 1 1/2 hp tablesaw does _not_ mean that a better cabinet saw
with an induction motor would be equally "capable" with the same power.
I wouldn't walk away from a good 2hp saw to a bad 3hp saw. But if I were
buying, I'd specify the biggest motor that my wiring could easily cope
with. My own saw is an ancient 3 phase brute, converted by the previous
owner to an undersized (1hp ?) single phase motor. I upgraded it to a
3hp motor myself and regarded this as money _very_ well spent. It's much
safer to use now - I feed it aq deep rip in sticky resinous timber and
it just gets on with it, no argument. That's a lot better than a saw
that sticks and bogs down, then works free and speeds up again.
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> Okay, a friend of mine has been admonishing me not to buy a 1 1/2 HP
> tablesaw. He says that a minimum of 3 HP is warranted for any decent
> tablesaw.
>
> Now, I'm not planning on going into the woodworking business. I just
> want to outfit my workshop with good equipment so that I can't blame the
> equipment on the lousy workmanship that comes out of it!
>
> The reviews for various 1 1/2 HP tablesaws seem very good. Whether it's
> Grizzly, Delta, or another good brand, people seem genuinely happy and
> satisfied with the abilities of those tablesaws.
>
> So ....
>
> Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt
> that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck,
> I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
>
> Thx!
>
> Jack
>
I had a Sears Contractors saw. I could almost stop it with my hand.
I'm exaggerating, but seriously, I had a hell of time cutting 1-1/2"
fir, much less anything harder. My 3 HP Unisaw never slows down at all,
even when cutting to it's max height. You might try a thin kerf blade
on the under powered saw to alleviate some of the bogging down (less
wood to remove).
Dave
>
>So ....
>
>Can anyone tell me why the extra horsepower would be needed? I doubt
>that I'll ever be cutting through anything thicker than 1 1/2". Heck,
>I'm not even sure how often I'd be doing that much!
>
>Thx!
>
>Jack
Jack, I faced the same choice and ended up with a Jet 3hp cabinet. I
had been using an ancient craftsman contractor saw. I loved that saw,
even if it did bog down cutting 1"pine if the stars weren't in line.
It cost me a little more in the long run but I have no fear of
Hardwoods, Dados, Bevels or astrology. To get into a solid 2hp saw
your'r close to some of 3hp cabinets. Having used both 11/2 and 2hp, I
would recommend the 2 hp and would not consider a 11/2 unless I had no
choice. My needs do include lots of hardwood and your needs now may
change over time to include hardwoods and 2hp would allow room to
grow. Besides HP you do need to consider other qualities; Fence,Wings,
Table, Arbor. All the HP in the world won't get rid of the headache of
a bad fence or warped table followed up with no support from the
manufacture.
My vote would be for a 2hp contractor/ although they are 115/230 you
could get on by on 115 until you could wire 230. But I point out again
that the price would put you close to a grizzly cabinet. Many like the
grizzlys. As pointed out by others a good quality thin blade can
help.
Half the fun is shopping.
YMMV
ED
On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 23:00:30 -0800, David wrote:
> I had a Sears Contractors saw. I could almost stop it with my hand. I'm
> exaggerating, but seriously, I had a hell of time cutting 1-1/2" fir, much
> less anything harder. My 3 HP Unisaw never slows down at all, even when
> cutting to it's max height. You might try a thin kerf blade on the under
> powered saw to alleviate some of the bogging down (less wood to remove).
>
> Dave
I presently have a rinky-dink Sears contractor saw with the stamped metal
wings and have exactly no problem cross-cutting 3" oak and only
minor hassles ripping a 30"+ piece of it.
I'm no rocket scientist, but it sounds as if you were pinching the wood.
On 1 1/2" fir my 40 tooth blade barely acknowledges its presence. My blade
is parallel to my miter slots and fence to within .0005" TIR. I attribute
that much out of parallel condition to waviness in the blade itself.
Bill
"George" <George@least> wrote:
>
> "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yBegf.12559$a62.12024@trnddc07...
>> Well, since they are selling on e-bay as "Old, Rare, Vintage, Antique
>> Slide Rule - L@@K!", you must be an Antique. Wait a minute, I started
>> with a slide rule. Guess that makes me an Antique too!
>>
>> Unfortunately there are a zillion of them out there. Slide Rules, that
>> is.
>
> I still have a couple of the less common circular types. Also an old
> celestial computer, though the epoch is a few back. Wonder if there's a
> market on e-b for them?
>
>
Last time I looked there were something like 500 for sale. Take a look at
the closed auctions. A very select few bring in fairly good money.
Somebody wrote:
>That's sounds alright and workin, but how does one find_out the exact horse power of a motor?
You set up a pony brake to measure foot lbs of absorbed power per unit
of time as well as the necessary electrical instrumentation to measure
input volts, amps and power factor.
You now crunch the data with your handy dandy slide rule, then plot
electrical data vs mechanical data.
I won't tell you how long ago we did this as a mechanical enginering lab
project, but the slide rule comment should give you a clue.
Lew
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>> I had a hell of time cutting 1-1/2" fir, much less anything harder. <<<
I'm no Sears fan but as a Sears retiree I get fairly good discounts so am on
my second craftsman TS, the one with belt drive and cast iron wing that held
a router. The most recent purchased several years ago on a closeout when
sears and Ryobi split the sheets. Both the older (probably 20 yr) and the
newest do real good on 1 1/2 in soft woods but doubt they would hack it
very well on hard woods. They serve my purpose well but I seldom if ever
need to cut hardwood. RM~
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Somebody wrote:
>
>>That's sounds alright and workin, but how does one find_out the exact
>>horse power of a motor?
>
> You set up a pony brake to measure foot lbs of absorbed power per unit
> of time as well as the necessary electrical instrumentation to measure
> input volts, amps and power factor.
>
> You now crunch the data with your handy dandy slide rule, then plot
> electrical data vs mechanical data.
>
> I won't tell you how long ago we did this as a mechanical enginering
> lab project, but the slide rule comment should give you a clue.
Well, since they are selling on e-bay as "Old, Rare, Vintage, Antique
Slide Rule - L@@K!", you must be an Antique. Wait a minute, I started
with a slide rule. Guess that makes me an Antique too!
Unfortunately there are a zillion of them out there. Slide Rules, that
is.