Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some other
things...
1. A table.
Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for woodworking.
A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make your life easier.
I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but given
your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to suggest...MDF?...melamine
covered particle board?...ply with Formica?...painted ply? Here's a
bunch...
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
and some details...
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so you
can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
2. A fence for the table.
Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply attached at
right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table, appropriate bolts
through the horizontal part of the fence to allow movement along the slots.
I also have a couple of stop blocks for mine that can be positioned along a
"T" slot on the fence. A tape measure afixed to the fence top is handy
especially when you can zero the stops relative to a bit in the DP chuck.
Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
3. Sacrifical plate
With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into it; one
answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that can be replaced
when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero clearance plate. I make mine
from mel board. Another answer is to just stick 2-3 pieces of whatever
under whatever you are machining.
4. Drum sander hole
I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one has to
make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new table. Can't
be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the table surface. I made
mine off to one side.
5. Clamps
Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever you are
drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some hardwwood scraps and
1" dowel...
a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a semi-circular cut
out across the 1" width about 3" from one end; drill a hole perpendicular to
the semicircular one and elongate tha hole for and aft.
c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the hardwood
piece.
d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in the
same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table track,
one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end on what you
want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed force. The purpose
of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular hole and the elongated bolt
hole is to allow the clamp to adjust itself and maintain down force when
clamping.
Looks like this...
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 01/08/2011 08:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some other
> things...
>
> 1. A table.
> Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for woodworking.
> A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make your life easier.
>
> I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but given
> your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to suggest...MDF?...melamine
> covered particle board?...ply with Formica?...painted ply? Here's a
> bunch...
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
>
> and some details...
> http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
>
> Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so you
> can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> 2. A fence for the table.
> Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply attached at
> right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table, appropriate bolts
> through the horizontal part of the fence to allow movement along the slots.
> I also have a couple of stop blocks for mine that can be positioned along a
> "T" slot on the fence. A tape measure afixed to the fence top is handy
> especially when you can zero the stops relative to a bit in the DP chuck.
>
> Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> 3. Sacrifical plate
> With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into it; one
> answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that can be replaced
> when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero clearance plate. I make mine
> from mel board. Another answer is to just stick 2-3 pieces of whatever
> under whatever you are machining.
>
> 4. Drum sander hole
> I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one has to
> make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new table. Can't
> be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the table surface. I made
> mine off to one side.
>
> 5. Clamps
> Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever you are
> drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some hardwwood scraps and
> 1" dowel...
>
> a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a semi-circular cut
> out across the 1" width about 3" from one end; drill a hole perpendicular to
> the semicircular one and elongate tha hole for and aft.
>
> c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the hardwood
> piece.
>
> d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in the
> same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table track,
> one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end on what you
> want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed force. The purpose
> of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular hole and the elongated bolt
> hole is to allow the clamp to adjust itself and maintain down force when
> clamping.
>
> Looks like this...
>
I put a picture of my DP on a.b.p.w for Bill. Has the mobile base and
Rockler aux table.
dadiOH wrote:
> Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some
> other things...
>
> 1. A table.
> Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for
> woodworking. A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make
> your life easier.
> I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but
> given your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to
> suggest...MDF?...melamine covered particle board?...ply with
> Formica?...painted ply? Here's a bunch...
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
>
> and some details...
> http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
>
> Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so
> you can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> 2. A fence for the table.
> Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply
> attached at right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table,
> appropriate bolts through the horizontal part of the fence to allow
> movement along the slots. I also have a couple of stop blocks for
> mine that can be positioned along a "T" slot on the fence. A tape
> measure afixed to the fence top is handy especially when you can zero
> the stops relative to a bit in the DP chuck.
> Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> 3. Sacrifical plate
> With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into
> it; one answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that
> can be replaced when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero
> clearance plate. I make mine from mel board. Another answer is to
> just stick 2-3 pieces of whatever under whatever you are machining.
>
> 4. Drum sander hole
> I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one
> has to make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new
> table. Can't be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the
> table surface. I made mine off to one side.
>
> 5. Clamps
> Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever
> you are drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some
> hardwwood scraps and 1" dowel...
>
> a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a
> semi-circular cut out across the 1" width about 3" from one end;
> drill a hole perpendicular to the semicircular one and elongate tha
> hole for and aft.
> c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the
> hardwood piece.
>
> d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in
> the same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table
> track, one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end
> on what you want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed
> force. The purpose of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular
> hole and the elongated bolt hole is to allow the clamp to adjust
> itself and maintain down force when clamping.
>
> Looks like this...
http://www.anneldavis.com/bobandanne/drill%20press/Drill%20Press%2007.jpg
(OP got sent before I was finished).
Now, back to the table. You'll probably find that it is a bit hard to keep
it perpendicular to the quill because the added width tips things more
easily. I suggest that once you get it set you drilll through the original
collar and slightly into what it pivots on, then tap the collar hole so you
can use a small knob to easily get back to perpendicular. An easy way to
get to perpendicular is...
1. swing the head all the way to one side
2. insert a piece of stiff wire (such as a piece of wire coat hanger) so
that it just touches the table.
3. swing the head to the other side; the wire will just touch (in which case
you are good to go) or be too short or long. If the latter, tip the table
accordingly. A feeler gauge is useful :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Ralph Compton wrote:
> How did you attach the deck to the drawer box?
It's not my table, just a similar one, but I would have either put cleats
along the top of the drawer sides and screwed through or into those or I
would have screwed through the bottom piece of the table - before adding the
second piece of mel board - into the drawer sides/front/back.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
In article <[email protected]>,
dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
> Looks like this...
> --
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
I think something is missing ;-)
--
Stuart Winsor
Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
I like cleats but just wondered how someone else would do it. Thanks.
Ralph
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ralph Compton wrote:
>> How did you attach the deck to the drawer box?
>
> It's not my table, just a similar one, but I would have either put cleats
> along the top of the drawer sides and screwed through or into those or I
> would have screwed through the bottom piece of the table - before adding
> the second piece of mel board - into the drawer sides/front/back.
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
>An easy way to
>get to perpendicular is...
>1. swing the head all the way to one side
>2. insert a piece of stiff wire (such as a piece of wire coat hanger) so
>that it just touches the table.
>3. swing the head to the other side; the wire will just touch (in which
>case you are good to go) or be too short or long. If the latter, tip the
>table accordingly. A feeler gauge is useful :)
>dadiOH
Or, just leave the head in the middle, and bend a stiff piece of wire into a
sort of z-shape so that it just lands on the table at one side. Then rotate
the chuck a half-turn and check the clearance on the other side. If your
quill doesn't have much runout, that'll tell the tale. If it does, of
course, fix that too.
Tom
On Jan 8, 2:26=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
> > Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some
> > other things...
>
> > =A0 =A01. A table.
> > Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for
> > woodworking. A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make
> > your life easier.
> > I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but
> > given your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to
> > suggest...MDF?...melamine covered particle board?...ply with
> > Formica?...painted ply? =A0Here's a bunch...
> >http://www.google.com/images?hl=3Den&q=3Ddrill%20press%20table&um=3D1&ie=
=3DUT...
>
> > and some details...
> >http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=3Dhttp://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Ex.=
..
>
> > Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so
> > you can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> > =A0 =A02. A fence for the table.
> > Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply
> > attached at right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table,
> > appropriate bolts through the horizontal part of the fence to allow
> > movement along the slots. I also have a couple of stop blocks for
> > mine that can be positioned along a "T" slot on the fence. =A0A tape
> > measure afixed to the fence top is handy especially when you can zero
> > the stops relative to a bit in the DP chuck.
> > Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> > =A0 =A03. Sacrifical plate
> > With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into
> > it; one answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that
> > can be replaced when it gets chewed up. =A0Like a table saw zero
> > clearance plate. =A0I make mine from mel board. =A0Another answer is to
> > just stick 2-3 pieces of whatever under whatever you are machining.
>
> > =A0 4. Drum sander hole
> > I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. =A0To do so, one
> > has to make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new
> > table. =A0Can't be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the
> > table surface. =A0I made mine off to one side.
>
> > =A0 =A05. Clamps
> > Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever
> > you are drilling so clams are useful. =A0I made mine using some
> > hardwwood scraps and 1" dowel...
>
> > a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> > b) =A0get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a
> > semi-circular cut out across the 1" width about 3" from one end;
> > drill a hole perpendicular to the semicircular one and elongate tha
> > hole for and aft.
> > c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the
> > hardwood piece.
>
> > d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in
> > the same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> > To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> > together with a star knob and bolt. =A0The bolt head goes into DP table
> > track, one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end
> > on what you want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed
> > force. =A0The purpose of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular
> > hole and the elongated bolt hole is to allow the clamp to adjust
> > itself and maintain down force when clamping.
>
> > Looks like this...
>
> http://www.anneldavis.com/bobandanne/drill%20press/Drill%20Press%2007...
>
> (OP got sent before I was finished).
>
> Now, back to the table. =A0You'll probably find that it is a bit hard to =
keep
> it perpendicular to the quill because the added width tips things more
> easily. =A0I suggest that once you get it set you drilll through the orig=
inal
> collar and slightly into what it pivots on, then tap the collar hole so y=
ou
> can use a small knob to easily get back to perpendicular. =A0An easy way =
to
> get to perpendicular is...
>
> 1. swing the head all the way to one side
>
> 2. insert a piece of stiff wire (such as a piece of wire coat hanger) so
> that it just touches the table.
>
> 3. swing the head to the other side; the wire will just touch (in which c=
ase
> you are good to go) or be too short or long. =A0If the latter, tip the ta=
ble
> accordingly. =A0A feeler gauge is useful =A0:)
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Convenient substitutes for feeler gauges:
3 x 5 index card =3D 0.0075".
cigarette rolling paper =3D 0.001".
masking tape folded in half and stuck to itself =3D 0.004".
bond typing paper =3D 0.002".
beer can stock =3D 0.0015".
dadiOH wrote:
> Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some other
> things...
dadiOH, Thank you for this informative post. I looked at your table and
bases and saved a copy of this post on my desktop so I can digest all of
the information at my leisure. At present, I still need to finish my
baseboard and get the DP put together! I think you've included enough
information to help get me to another level!
As far as plywood, they sell some formaldehyde-free stuff at Home Depot
thatI am hoping to be able to use. I believe it's intended for lighter
use than DP baseboards though and I haven't tried it yet.
I'm going to rework my DP-baseboard tonight. Thank you for your help!
Bill
>
> 1. A table.
> Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for woodworking.
> A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make your life easier.
>
> I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but given
> your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to suggest...MDF?...melamine
> covered particle board?...ply with Formica?...painted ply? Here's a
> bunch...
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
>
> and some details...
> http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
>
> Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so you
> can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> 2. A fence for the table.
> Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply attached at
> right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table, appropriate bolts
> through the horizontal part of the fence to allow movement along the slots.
> I also have a couple of stop blocks for mine that can be positioned along a
> "T" slot on the fence. A tape measure afixed to the fence top is handy
> especially when you can zero the stops relative to a bit in the DP chuck.
>
> Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> 3. Sacrifical plate
> With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into it; one
> answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that can be replaced
> when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero clearance plate. I make mine
> from mel board. Another answer is to just stick 2-3 pieces of whatever
> under whatever you are machining.
>
> 4. Drum sander hole
> I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one has to
> make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new table. Can't
> be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the table surface. I made
> mine off to one side.
>
> 5. Clamps
> Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever you are
> drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some hardwwood scraps and
> 1" dowel...
>
> a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a semi-circular cut
> out across the 1" width about 3" from one end; drill a hole perpendicular to
> the semicircular one and elongate tha hole for and aft.
>
> c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the hardwood
> piece.
>
> d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in the
> same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table track,
> one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end on what you
> want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed force. The purpose
> of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular hole and the elongated bolt
> hole is to allow the clamp to adjust itself and maintain down force when
> clamping.
>
> Looks like this...
>
"Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >An easy way to
> >get to perpendicular is...
>
> >1. swing the head all the way to one side
>
> >2. insert a piece of stiff wire (such as a piece of wire coat hanger) so
> >that it just touches the table.
>
> >3. swing the head to the other side; the wire will just touch (in which
> >case you are good to go) or be too short or long. If the latter, tip the
> >table accordingly. A feeler gauge is useful :)
>
> >dadiOH
>
>
> Or, just leave the head in the middle, and bend a stiff piece of wire into a
> sort of z-shape so that it just lands on the table at one side. Then rotate
> the chuck a half-turn and check the clearance on the other side. If your
> quill doesn't have much runout, that'll tell the tale. If it does, of
> course, fix that too.
>
> Tom
>
Tom's method will also tell you if the table is tipped forward or
backwards. This fault usually isn't adjustable on DP's and can be
a real bitch to shim true. Adding an aux table make this much easier
to correct. BTDT.
Art
Ooh, ooh, ooh! I like it, I like it! Another project to do.
Ralph
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some other
> things...
>
> 1. A table.
> Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for
> woodworking. A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make your
> life easier.
>
> I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but given
> your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to suggest...MDF?...melamine
> covered particle board?...ply with Formica?...painted ply? Here's a
> bunch...
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
>
> and some details...
> http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
>
> Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so you
> can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> 2. A fence for the table.
> Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply attached at
> right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table, appropriate bolts
> through the horizontal part of the fence to allow movement along the
> slots. I also have a couple of stop blocks for mine that can be positioned
> along a "T" slot on the fence. A tape measure afixed to the fence top is
> handy especially when you can zero the stops relative to a bit in the DP
> chuck.
>
> Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> 3. Sacrifical plate
> With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into it;
> one answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that can be
> replaced when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero clearance plate.
> I make mine from mel board. Another answer is to just stick 2-3 pieces of
> whatever under whatever you are machining.
>
> 4. Drum sander hole
> I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one has to
> make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new table.
> Can't be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the table surface. I
> made mine off to one side.
>
> 5. Clamps
> Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever you are
> drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some hardwwood scraps and
> 1" dowel...
>
> a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a semi-circular cut
> out across the 1" width about 3" from one end; drill a hole perpendicular
> to the semicircular one and elongate tha hole for and aft.
>
> c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the
> hardwood piece.
>
> d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in the
> same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table
> track, one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end on
> what you want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed force.
> The purpose of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular hole and the
> elongated bolt hole is to allow the clamp to adjust itself and maintain
> down force when clamping.
>
> Looks like this...
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
How did you attach the deck to the drawer box?
Ralph
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill, once you get your base made, you might want to consider some other
> things...
>
> 1. A table.
> Yes, your DP came with one but it is probably way too small for
> woodworking. A generously sized one - mine is 18" X 30" - will make your
> life easier.
>
> I made mine from 3/4" plywood bolted to the dinky cast iron one but given
> your sensivitity to ply I don't know what to suggest...MDF?...melamine
> covered particle board?...ply with Formica?...painted ply? Here's a
> bunch...
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=drill%20press%20table&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
>
> and some details...
> http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Exposed/album_Photog/Photog_images_DP_Table/02_DrillPressTable.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_How_To_pages/Photog_DP_Table.htm&usg=__4ndgcnzw4vMVmN9vce4RwRpPX94=&h=531&w=800&sz=78&hl=en&start=6&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=CF8FihfSILs7vM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddrill%2Bpress%2Btable%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1
>
> Caveat: regardless of construction material, mind that it is built so you
> can still raise/lower the table without skinning your knuckles.
>
> 2. A fence for the table.
> Very useful, IME, and easy to build: two pieces of wood or ply attached at
> right angles to each other; two "T" slots in the table, appropriate bolts
> through the horizontal part of the fence to allow movement along the
> slots. I also have a couple of stop blocks for mine that can be positioned
> along a "T" slot on the fence. A tape measure afixed to the fence top is
> handy especially when you can zero the stops relative to a bit in the DP
> chuck.
>
> Caveat: build the fence so the DP chuck doesn't hit it.
>
> 3. Sacrifical plate
> With a nice, new table you don't want to be drilling ugly holes into it;
> one answer is a sacrificial plate, either square or round, that can be
> replaced when it gets chewed up. Like a table saw zero clearance plate.
> I make mine from mel board. Another answer is to just stick 2-3 pieces of
> whatever under whatever you are machining.
>
> 4. Drum sander hole
> I find a DP useful for sanding with a sanding drum. To do so, one has to
> make a hole slightly larger than drum diameter in the nice new table.
> Can't be helped, gotta be able to get the drum below the table surface. I
> made mine off to one side.
>
> 5. Clamps
> Madly spinning bits can grab and whack your knuckles with whatever you are
> drilling so clams are useful. I made mine using some hardwwood scraps and
> 1" dowel...
>
> a) split about 3" of 1" dowel in half
>
> b) get a piece of hardwood about 3/4" x 1" x 8"; make a semi-circular cut
> out across the 1" width about 3" from one end; drill a hole perpendicular
> to the semicircular one and elongate tha hole for and aft.
>
> c) glue a piece of split dowel aross the bottom at each end of the
> hardwood piece.
>
> d) drill a hole into a third piece of split dowel and elongate it in the
> same manner as you did the hardwood piece.
>
> To use, put dowel from "d" into semi-circular hole ("b") and gook all
> together with a star knob and bolt. The bolt head goes into DP table
> track, one end of clamp with glued on dowel rests on table, other end on
> what you want to hold down; tightening star knob provides needed force.
> The purpose of the piece of split dowel in the semi-circular hole and the
> elongated bolt hole is to allow the clamp to adjust itself and maintain
> down force when clamping.
>
> Looks like this...
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>