Drum sander vs planer

>While I am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for the
>above goal?

No. Just plane it. I wouldn't use most drum sanders for dimentioning
anything. It would take a sander with some serious muscle to do that.
I want a drum sander also, but it would be fore getting a certain
finish while reducing sanding time, not dimentioning. On the other
hand, if you get some seriously ragged wood, like maybe some old barn
wood or something, it might be better to run it though a drum sander
first rather than a planer, since grit and old paint in the wood
wouldn't do much to a drum sander, but would dull or nick planer
blades.

brian

"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:OxVqf.60$x%2.17@trnddc06...
> On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
> procedures.
> 1) sizes the stock on the table saw
> 2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
> 3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
> 4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer? While I
> am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for
> the above goal?
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
David Marks does this all the time. He (nor I) like planning thin pieces in
the planer. For longer thicker pieces, the planer works great.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I have a drum sander and no planer, use reclaimed timber, so knots even
nails can go through. Dimension on bandsaw. Tough! I use old scaffold
boards sometimes. Jet recommended !

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer?

Was it highly figured or other difficult to plane wood?

I have a planer and drum sander. I typically use the planer for
dimensioning. The reasons I use the drum sander have been
a) Very short pieces
b) Piece too wide for the planer (> 13in)
c) Grain on wood resulting in tearing.
d) Assembled item has grain in two directions

Using the drum sander is much slower than the planer. Have to check the
drum from time to time to clean off gum. Repeated light passes are
required, but it is still easy to get the sandpaper too hot which increases
the gum build up resulting in more heat, etc.

Dave Paine.


"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:OxVqf.60$x%2.17@trnddc06...
> On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
> procedures.
> 1) sizes the stock on the table saw
> 2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
> 3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
> 4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer? While I
> am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for
> the above goal?
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
>

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
> procedures.
> 1) sizes the stock on the table saw
> 2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
> 3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
> 4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer?

No knife marks.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:OxVqf.60$x%2.17@trnddc06...
> On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
> procedures.
> 1) sizes the stock on the table saw
> 2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
> 3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
> 4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer? While I
> am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for
> the above goal?

Because a planer is not going to leave a finish that you want to be the
final surface. Yeah some of the new portables will leave a baby butt
surface, but not for long.
And, no you can plane to the final thickness and then lightly hand plane,
scrape or sand the surface as a final prep to the surface.

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

> On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
> procedures.
> 1) sizes the stock on the table saw
> 2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
> 3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
> 4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
> QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer? While I
> am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for the
> above goal?
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>
Tear-out prone wood should be sanded rather than run through a planer.
Wetting the wood helps, but ultimately, if it still tears out, you'll
need to sand out the divots. doing that with handheld sanders is a time
consuming PITA and may result in less than optimal results (uneveness).
Scraping will work, but it's also time consuming and tedious if you
expect to scrape away enough to remove any but the tiniest divots.

Dave

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
>
>On the Woodworking show, when making flat stock, he uses the following
>procedures.
>1) sizes the stock on the table saw
>2) joints one edge and one face on the jointer
>3) with jointed face down planes the opposite face on the planer
>4) passes the stock through the drum sander for final size
>
>QUESTION? Why did he not simply go for final size in the planer? While I
>am sure a drum sander would be a nice tool to have, is it necessary for
>the above goal?


Don't have a clue, but offer the following:

1) Drum sander can handle 48" wide material.
2) If you are reclaiming old timber and miss a nail, it usually won't
damage the sanding belt of a drum sander.

If building a table top as a glue up of boards, I like to use oversize
stock for the glue up, then go to the drum sanding shop and bring it to
size.

Provides a uniform finish at minimum cost.

Just don't show up with a teak glue up unless you have very deep
pockets. One you sand teak, you need new belts.

A commercial drum sander uses 3 sanding belts driven usually by 25HP motors.

After seeing one of them operate, anything you find in a home shop is
basically a toy by comparison, IMHO.

Lew