A while back I rolled the ebay dice on a set of a #4, #5, and #6
Baileys. The #4 and #5 are in pretty close to working order, the #6
has some issues. It's got a type 11 base with a type 13-15 lever cap
that has some issues. It did not take me long to discover that with
the cam locked down I could still easily pull the lever cap off with
just finger pressure. From there I noticed the iron was bent such
that there was a good 1/16th gap with the cap iron at the back. Also
some I'm sure well meaning fellow had ground the front edge of the
lever cap. However he apparently did not see the need for having his
eyes open when he did so judging by the end results. (He also applied
the same technique when sharpening all three blades, but that is
another story)
I was able to get the iron in the vacinity of straight putting it in
the vise and using a length of 2x4 with a slit in the end to bend it,
but it still rocks a bit on the frog when mated with the cap iron, and
I can see a lot of light between iron and frog if I shine a flashlight
through the mouth. The lever cap holds a bit better after this, but I
can still pull it back with little effort. I wasn't sure how much the
mangled front edge of the lever cap was affecting anything as the
bottom of it was still flat, but i straightened it out. This didn't
seem to affect the clamping pressure. However in the process I
noticed that the lever cap is warped slightly.
I'm not sure exactly why I'm not getting any clamping pressure. I
tried putting on the lever cap from the #4 and I was able to get it
clamped tight, I had to back out the screw almost a full turn to get
it on. It was either bottomed out or in as far as the rust on the
screw will let it in with the proper lever cap. I can understand that
the iron may still be part of the problem, but it's just too easy to
lock the cam down and I don't know why. Is it the warp? Is it
because the guy ground down the front edge? I'm not sure how much he
took off as I don't have another cap of that size, but it's the same
length from the hole to the front edge as the #4/#5's
What should be my first step? The iron has an inch left on it, I
would like to save it but I'm not sure how much straighter I can get
it. The lever cap isn't original so I don't have a problem ditching
it if need be, but its patina does match the rest and I have these
both as users and for display. If it can be saved I'd like to save
it. At this point I'm just trying to get from falls apart when looked
at crosseyed to serviceable, I'm not looking for poetry in motion.
-Leuf
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 19:45:39 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Leuf, see this seller's stuff, lots cap irons and blades at decent prices and shipping costs.
>A lot of it is mixed up into the wrong catagories (for a strategy) so you'll need to click
>through it all to find what you're looking for. eBay seller search: a-20
Well I'll be darned, he's got a #6 lever cap of the right vintage
mislabeled as a cap iron. I'd have gone right by it, thanks!
-Leuf
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 07:02:40 GMT, Leuf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What should be my first step?
Sounds like time for a new iron, maybe a new cap iron.
Apart from the Sweethearts, Stanley irons are nothing particularly
special. A Samurai replacement (best I know) is still affordable and a
much better piece of steel. I also like Cliftons for heavier use, but
they're thicker and usually need some mouth work.
Clifton make a good cap iron - the two-piece nose.
I've generally had good luck with eBay planes - a few duds, but only
really one where I feel it was mis-described. There are always plenty
out there - just buy the ones with the good photos where you can
actually see the condition. I'll buy a cheap 10 1/4 without seeing it
that well, but for a #5 then I can easily wait for a better listing.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 10:56:07 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 07:02:40 GMT, Leuf <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>What should be my first step?
>
>Sounds like time for a new iron, maybe a new cap iron.
>
>Apart from the Sweethearts, Stanley irons are nothing particularly
>special. A Samurai replacement (best I know) is still affordable and a
>much better piece of steel. I also like Cliftons for heavier use, but
>they're thicker and usually need some mouth work.
I'm dealing mainly with pine and oak for the time being, who knows
what lies in the future, but for the time being the stanley blade
would be sufficient. Plenty of other things I could spend $30+ on. I
think the hock and veritas blades are more in my price range if I do
end up replacing it, maybe I can find room on the christmas list. In
the meantime I'm going to keep my eye on ebay to see if a suitable
lever cap turns up. And here I thought I was done searching on
there..
-Leuf
"Leuf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ouch. When I was looking I made it a point to ask for one if a
> picture of the sole with enough detail to see any damage wasn't
> provided in the listing, or at least to have them look it over and
> specifically say there weren't any cracks or chips. It's amazing how
> many planes are listed where the seller doesn't show the bottom, it's
> like it never occurs to them that it might have something to do with
> how the plane works.
You are so right. Actually, the picture on ebay was poor quality. I was so
hungry for a #8 that I went for it anyway. The seller responded superbly.
It was obvious in my interaction with him that he is not a professional
plane seller. He immediately gave me a full refund and told me not to
bother returning the plane - just keep it. He believes the damage was
shipping damage and has filed a claim with the shipper. He asked me to keep
all shipping materials for a while in case the shipper wants to examine
them.
Bob
"Leuf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A while back I rolled the ebay dice on a set of a #4, #5, and #6
> Baileys.
That's a good way to put it. I just rolled 'em on a #8 jointer that was
represented to be "complete and in good working order". When I got it, it
was the right age and had all the parts, but "good working order" was a
stretch. It had a 1" crack in the base and the plane iron, frog adjustment
and tote had all suffered from a big drop on the concrete. This was old
damage - no shiny metal or fresh wood showing. I was pissed. So now I'm
following the ebay rules - contact the seller and talk it over with them.
Nothing short of a full refund will satisfy me. If I don't get cooperation,
then I take it up with ebay.
I am hoping the seller thinks highly of his seller's rating. He was proud
of the 100%. I'll put a big fat blemish on it, if he doesn't come through.
I'm thinking that buying planes from ebay is not such a good idea.
Bob
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 07:35:22 GMT, "Bob" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"Leuf" <[email protected]> wrote.
>> A while back I rolled the ebay dice on a set of a #4, #5, and #6
>> Baileys.
>
>That's a good way to put it. I just rolled 'em on a #8 jointer that was
>represented to be "complete and in good working order". When I got it, it
>was the right age and had all the parts, but "good working order" was a
>stretch. It had a 1" crack in the base and the plane iron, frog adjustment
>and tote had all suffered from a big drop on the concrete.
Ouch. When I was looking I made it a point to ask for one if a
picture of the sole with enough detail to see any damage wasn't
provided in the listing, or at least to have them look it over and
specifically say there weren't any cracks or chips. It's amazing how
many planes are listed where the seller doesn't show the bottom, it's
like it never occurs to them that it might have something to do with
how the plane works. You can generally tell the sellers that know
what they are talking about from the ones that don't. It's harder to
pick out the frauds, but pictures don't lie. There was a little less
in the way of pictures than I would have preferred which was why I
considered it a dice roll, but I feel like the seller was honest about
the condition as far as they knew. In fact the handles aren't really
as bad as he made them out to be, they aren't pretty but they're
functional. It would be easy enough to overlook the other issues
unless you were really looking at it, but someone who knew what they
were talking about should have noticed something was amiss and
mentioned it.
>I am hoping the seller thinks highly of his seller's rating. He was proud
>of the 100%. I'll put a big fat blemish on it, if he doesn't come through.
>I'm thinking that buying planes from ebay is not such a good idea.
I wouldn't let one bad experience sour you on it, especially before
the situation has been resolved. I've gotten a total of 4 planes. If
all I have to replace is a blade and a lever cap to get them all
working then I'm still way ahead of the game. Hopefully your seller
will take care of it, let us know what happens.
-Leuf
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:49:46 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Well I'll be darned, he's got a #6 lever cap of the right vintage
>> mislabeled as a cap iron. I'd have gone right by it, thanks!
>>
>>
>Found it and saw your bid too!
Outbid by exactly one cent. That sort of karma makes me stop and
think. I went and tried putting a washer on the lever cap screw and
that worked. Ugly though. So I took an 1/8th off the screw and all
is well now, at least well enough to give it a test run once the blade
is sharpened. It's still a little out of whack though, when I start
to lock the cam the whole lever cap slides back a bit for some reason
which means that the head of the screw is only bearing on the sides of
the slot, which probably isn't good for the lever cap.
-Leuf
> Outbid by exactly one cent. That sort of karma makes me stop and
> think. I went and tried putting a washer on the lever cap screw and
> that worked. Ugly though. So I took an 1/8th off the screw and all
> is well now, at least well enough to give it a test run once the blade
> is sharpened. It's still a little out of whack though, when I start
> to lock the cam the whole lever cap slides back a bit for some reason
> which means that the head of the screw is only bearing on the sides of
> the slot, which probably isn't good for the lever cap.
> -Leuf
I see you didn't get it, very sorry I was hoping you would win. But that kim_517
must have some good intuition to get it by one penny. Keep searching!
Alex