I have a cheapo table saw. It has a miter slot, but the slot has these
barbs on the top (at the table surface) that help hold the miter guage in
the slot. While this may be a nice idea in theory, it stinks for all the
miter tools that are made. It makes the miter slot alot like a T-slot. It
looks something like this:
__ __
|______|
instead of the normal slots on a good saw that look like this:
|_______|
I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
I know the real answser is to get a good saw... and I will in a few years,
but I want to learn some basics on this one.
BTW, went to my first woodworking show this weekend. Got to see Scott
Phillips and meet some craftsmen that showed me some great things...hand
tools and power. Also got to look at, touch, feel, and drool on some
awesome power tools... thanks to the vendors. They planted some seeds in my
head. I wonder how long until they sprout and I have to confront SWMBO
about the credit card bill?
Thanks,
Mike W.
Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
> Don't fight it. Sounds crazy but a manf. would NEVER use extra
> machining IF it was not considered necessary. Manf. want you to be
> (semi anyway) pleased with their tools so you will re-purchase in the
Sort of a case in point. I have an old Skil 3400 POS table saw. No T
slots. I saw the new Skil 3400 POS table saws at the BORG, and the main
difference is the table. Instead of having all the cutout swiss cheese
stuff, it's a solid hunk of aluminum. Also, the non-standard little
undersized miter slots now have some nubs sticking out fore and aft, such
as the OP describes, to simulate T slots.
Considering how little room there is in front of the blade on this thing,
it's difficult to crosscut anything of any width, even with a sled. I
don't think even simulated T slots are a bad idea on this saw at all, and
kinda wish I had the new table, since I'm stuck with this POS for the time
being anyway.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 02:25:46 GMT, "Mike W."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a cheapo table saw. It has a miter slot, but the slot has these
>barbs on the top (at the table surface) that help hold the miter guage in
>the slot. While this may be a nice idea in theory, it stinks for all the
>miter tools that are made. It makes the miter slot alot like a T-slot. It
>looks something like this:
>
>__ __
>|______|
>
>instead of the normal slots on a good saw that look like this:
>
>|_______|
>
>I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
>stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
>
>I know the real answser is to get a good saw... and I will in a few years,
>but I want to learn some basics on this one.
>
>BTW, went to my first woodworking show this weekend. Got to see Scott
>Phillips and meet some craftsmen that showed me some great things...hand
>tools and power. Also got to look at, touch, feel, and drool on some
>awesome power tools... thanks to the vendors. They planted some seeds in my
>head. I wonder how long until they sprout and I have to confront SWMBO
>about the credit card bill?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike W.
>
I would suggest that you consider carefully before grinding down these
notches. After they are gone then u must have exactly the right size
of miter gauge or your cuts will not be accurate. I'm looking at new
saws because my miter slot and miter have had many years of use and
are very sloppy. It is a chore for me to get a good square cut. Just
yesterday I used a chisel to make small projections along one side of
the aluminum miter to make it fit in the miter slot better. This is
really a last ditch effort. I could look for a new miter, but the slot
itself (stamped steel) was never super accurate in the first place. I
bought the saw second hand from a guy who was splitting up and needed
the funds. But this saw was never really accurate and now I want a new
one. May have to wait until Mrs. Claus helps me out, but it is coming.
Hand my hands on a contractor saw today, man what a nice feel when you
run the miter through its travel. But man what a price.
Ken, temporarily not making dust in NS
Don't fight it. Sounds crazy but a manf. would NEVER use extra
machining IF it was not considered necessary. Manf. want you to be
(semi anyway) pleased with their tools so you will re-purchase in the
future. At least it worked that way in Econ 1001 in 1971. May not work
now.
On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 02:25:46 GMT, "Mike W."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a cheapo table saw. It has a miter slot, but the slot has these
>barbs on the top (at the table surface) that help hold the miter guage in
>the slot. While this may be a nice idea in theory, it stinks for all the
>miter tools that are made. It makes the miter slot alot like a T-slot. It
>looks something like this:
>
>__ __
>|______|
>
>instead of the normal slots on a good saw that look like this:
>
>|_______|
>
>I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
>stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
>
>I know the real answser is to get a good saw... and I will in a few years,
>but I want to learn some basics on this one.
>
>BTW, went to my first woodworking show this weekend. Got to see Scott
>Phillips and meet some craftsmen that showed me some great things...hand
>tools and power. Also got to look at, touch, feel, and drool on some
>awesome power tools... thanks to the vendors. They planted some seeds in my
>head. I wonder how long until they sprout and I have to confront SWMBO
>about the credit card bill?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike W.
>
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a cheapo table saw. It has a miter slot, but the slot has these
> barbs on the top (at the table surface) that help hold the miter guage in
> the slot. While this may be a nice idea in theory, it stinks for all the
> miter tools that are made. It makes the miter slot alot like a T-slot.
It
> looks something like this:
>
> __ __
> |______|
>
> instead of the normal slots on a good saw that look like this:
>
> |_______|
>
Actually most of the good TS's have the "T" but it is upside down compared
to your illustration. The bottom of the slot has a wider slot for a washer
shape retainer to fit into.. but....anyway.
> I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
> stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
Dint hammer as this may distort the whole table top. Grinding may be the
answer if the wider slot on the bottom is straight and uniform in width.
In article <[email protected]>,
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I have a cheapo table saw. It has a miter slot, but the slot has these
>> barbs on the top (at the table surface) that help hold the miter guage in
>> the slot. While this may be a nice idea in theory, it stinks for all the
>> miter tools that are made. It makes the miter slot alot like a T-slot.
>It
>> looks something like this:
>>
>> __ __
>> |______|
>>
>> instead of the normal slots on a good saw that look like this:
>>
>> |_______|
>>
>
>Actually most of the good TS's have the "T" but it is upside down compared
>to your illustration. The bottom of the slot has a wider slot for a washer
>shape retainer to fit into.. but....anyway.
>
>> I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
>> stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
>
>Dint hammer as this may distort the whole table top. Grinding may be the
>answer if the wider slot on the bottom is straight and uniform in width.
My (inexpensive) saw (a table top) has an aluminum table with this
sort-of-T slot, The bottom isn't flat or excessively uniform - this is
a casting, not a machined slot in an iron/steel table.
My solution was to use my router on UHMW plastic bars to get sliders
which fit the two miter slots (which, by the way, weren't identical in
size!) It took me a while - but it does work.
--
--henry schaffer
[email protected]
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
It
> looks something like this:
>
> __ __
> |______|
> I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
> stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
It depends. Why do you want to take them off? If it is to use a standard
aftermarket miter, be sure the slot itself is wide enough to accommodate it.
If you want to build a cross cutting sled, then you can make the runner any
size needed so grinding the tabs off would be OK.
Ed
(yes, you know the real answer)
Mike W. wrote:
> I would like to get rid of the notches. Should I just grind them with a
> stone until they're gone? Should I hammer them?
Definitely don't hammer them. You'll ruin the table.
A stone could work, I guess, but you'd be there for twelve days. I'd use a
file. Files are cheap, even by my standards. You might help things along
with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel so you have less to file.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/