On 16 Feb 2007 14:38:08 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
Replace it. (replace both) Use 3/4" birch ply and you'll then have a
modern Workmate that's nearly as good as the old Workmates, back when
they used ply anyway, rather than MD, chipboard or bamboo.
I've just had to do this myself on Dad's Workmate (left in the rain) and
a really old blue aluminium H-frame that I pulled out of a skip for my
own use.
It's also worth making a set of wooden trestles with deep wooden tops
and no metal fittings within a saw's depth. Now you can _deliberately_
saw though the tops with a clear conscience.For some big pieces, this
is just the easiest and safest way to workYou get a few years' use out
of them this way, then you just re-surface the tops and keep using them.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
On Feb 16, 6:51 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> ...
> It probably won't help to know your in good company. From the golden
> ages of rec.woodworking's past...
>
> __________<begin message>_____________
>
> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> From: (Patrick Olguin)
> Date: Wed, Nov 30 1994 7:10 pm
>
> Subject: Your Biggest Boner
>
> Sorry, this is not a cross posting from alt.sex.large_appendages :-).
> It has to do with your biggest blooper/boner related to woodworking.
>
> I made a wildy funny mistake while almost woodworking the other day.
> I related it to a couple of rec.ww chums, and they suggested I post it
> if I could stand the ridicule. So here goes.
>
> I had some old 3/8" plywood that had been sitting outside in the
> weather... well, what passes for weather down here in So Cal :-).
> Anyway, I decided that my father-in-law could use the plywood for
> firewood, since it was ruined for any other use. So, I dragged the two
> 4x8 sheets outside, plopped them on my trusty Workmate, and began
> cutting. Well, it wasn't long before the cheap steel blade in my Skil 77
> started to go dull, and bind. So, being the clever guy I am, I whipped
> out my new, 60 tooth, carbide tipped blade. I unplugged the saw (I'm
> kinda attached to my fingers), and changed blades. While changing
> blades, I adjusted the foot to full blade-depth to make the change a
> little easier.... but then forgot to readjust.
>
> With the new blade locked in place, I plugged in the saw, clamped down
> the workpiece, and proceeded to make the most effortless cut you ever
> saw: right through that wimpy 3/8 plywood, _and_ the sheet metal of my
> Workmate! That Skil 77 never even slowed down. When I unclamped the
> workpiece, the two halves of the Workmate flopped to the ground. My
> father-in-law started laughing so hard, I really thought he was going to
> have a heart attack. Pat the mighty woodworker does in his Workmate.
>
> You know how a really nice carbide blade will make shavings, not
> sawdust? Well, there were neat little wood _and_ sheet metal shavings
> where my fallen Workmate lay. Oh well, I need to make a _real_ workbench
> anyway :-).
>
> ****************
>
> So, your challenge is to one-up this story, and own up to your
> horrendous/silly mistakes. Please, no dismemberment stories this time
> around =8-0.
>
> Patrick
>
> Just say To Err is human, to really screw up requires a 13 amp,
> worm-drive Skil 77.
> etc.
> ___________<end message>_____________
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Very good! I feel kind of better now ;-)
Thanks for all the replies. I've started with 1/8" insert and the
glue. If it fails, I'll try the epoxy (as a golf club maker, have
plenty of it).
Then if it still fails, what would you recommend to use as a
replacement panel. I'm looking for something hard enough that would
not warp?
Thanks for the help.
Vincent
On Feb 17, 10:52 am, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 05:53:08 -0500, J. Clarke <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On 16 Feb 2007 19:45:36 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>On Feb 16, 6:51 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> >>> ...
> >>> It probably won't help to know your in good company. From the golden
> >>> ages of rec.woodworking's past...
>
> >>> __________<begin message>_____________
>
> >>> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> >>> From: (Patrick Olguin)
> >>> Date: Wed, Nov 30 1994 7:10 pm
>
> ... snip
>
> >I believe that the panels are 3/4" phenolic-faced plywood. You can
> >get a piece of that from Woodcraft--it will be green, not brown, but
> >should be the same stuff--might want to replace both pieces so they
> >look the same.
>
> That, or he can just wait until he saws through the other side before
> replacing it.
>
> +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>
> If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
>
> +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Very nice.
Found a good piece of wood for 51 cents at HD. I will give it a try as
my implementation of the glue solution does not look very sturdy.
Vince
On Feb 17, 10:12 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
> >
> > Found a good piece of wood for 51 cents at HD. I will give it a try as
> > my implementation of the glue solution does not look very sturdy.
>
> Which is why I suggested thickened epoxy.
>
> It definitely WILL do the job.
>
> Lew
I will give it a try tonight.
On Feb 17, 10:12 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
> >
> > Found a good piece of wood for 51 cents at HD. I will give it a try as
> > my implementation of the glue solution does not look very sturdy.
>
> Which is why I suggested thickened epoxy.
>
> It definitely WILL do the job.
>
> Lew
I will give it a try tonight.
On Feb 19, 9:47 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> If the repair is made correctly, don't bet the farm. The repair is far
> stronger that the basic wood.
>
> If you truly want strength, lay a piece of 6-10 glass on each side.
>
> Lew
I have no doubt that the epoxy will be hard enough, but I am concerned
about the bonding within the bamboo fibers. This is where my
experimentation with the glue failed I believe. It did not get in as
it does with pine wood.
How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that
the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
Instead of the glass, I plan to glue some thin hard wood under the
board to re-enforce it after the epoxy cured completely. That should
add some support.
Vincent
On Feb 19, 9:47 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> If the repair is made correctly, don't bet the farm. The repair is far
> stronger that the basic wood.
>
> If you truly want strength, lay a piece of 6-10 glass on each side.
>
> Lew
I have no doubt that the epoxy will be hard enough, but I am concerned
about the bonding within the bamboo fibers. This is where my
experimentation with the glue failed I believe. It did not get in as
it does with pine wood.
How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that
the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
Instead of the glass, I plan to glue some thin hard wood under the
board to re-enforce it after the epoxy cured completely. That should
add some support.
Vincent
On Feb 19, 9:47 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> If the repair is made correctly, don't bet the farm. The repair is far
> stronger that the basic wood.
>
> If you truly want strength, lay a piece of 6-10 glass on each side.
>
> Lew
I have no doubt that the epoxy will be hard enough, but I am concerned
about the bonding within the bamboo fibers. This is where my
experimentation with the glue failed I believe. It did not get in as
it does with pine wood.
How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that
the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
Instead of the glass, I plan to glue some thin hard wood under the
board to re-enforce it after the epoxy cured completely. That should
add some support.
Vincent
On Feb 20, 4:18 pm, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Charley wrote:
>
> > Why not just go to Black & Decker and order/buy a new part.
>
> That is far tooo simple and straight forward<G>.
Right on! It's a recreational activity.
>
> Also, probably about 1/2 the cost of a good epoxy repair.
Actually, the panel by itself (and I mean just 1) sells for ~$20 +
S&H. That would cost me less to buy the whole thing on ebay.
>
> Lew
The epoxy is curing.
On Feb 21, 12:24 am, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
> > Actually, the panel by itself (and I mean just 1) sells for ~$20 +
> > S&H. That would cost me less to buy the whole thing on ebay.
> >> Lew
> >
> > The epoxy is curing.
>
> Find some place that sells fiberglass tape or 10 OZ glass cloth as a
> repair kit.
>
> If you have a West Marine or equal, they will have it.
>
> You only need something like 3"-4" wide x 12" long, say two layers.
>
> Use a couple of layers of glass on the bottom side and that repair
> will be "Strong Like Bull"
>
> Lew
I don't know about "Strong like Bull", but the $1 J&B Weld epoxy
filling + a piece of 1/2" poplar epoxied under the cut to support the
panel worked great. It is very stiff and it does not flex when I use
the workmate as a vise.
I applied the tape perfectly so it worked as a mold and I did not had
to even sand after I removed it.
Thanks for the excellent recommendation.
Vince
I don't want to question your method, Lew, but as I read the OP's original
post, he cut right through the panel, not just cutting a groove in it but
making it into two separate pieces. I fully believe that your method would
work well for repairing a kerf sized groove but I am not so sure that it
would work for joining the two pieces back together.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
>
> > I will give it a try tonight.
>
> Don't try to do the whole job in one shot.
>
> Thicken the epoxy to the consistency of mayo so that it will NOT pour, but
> rather needs to be pushed into the groove with a stick.
>
> Fill the top half of the cut a little proud, then wait at least 72 hours.
>
> Switch the 1x4 from top to bottom and re-clamp, then finish filling a
> little proud.
>
> Wait 72 hours, sand both sides flush and enjoy.
>
> Lew
>
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 14:03:39 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 16 Feb 2007 14:38:08 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
>
Is there no institutional memory on this NG.
Can you really forget Paddy sawing through the workmutt?
Look at Deja (sorry - gurggle)
On 16 Feb 2007 19:45:36 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Then if it still fails, what would you recommend to use as a
>replacement panel. I'm looking for something hard enough that would
>not warp?
My newer Workmate has a bamboo top! The older one has particle board.
An excellent and easier to find replacement would be "REAL" 3/4"
cabinet grade birch or oak plywood. By real, I mean the stuff with 12
or so plies vs. 5-6. It'll stay flat, it's easy to work, and you can
optionally coat it with polyurethane on both sides.
Check your local yellow pages for cabinet shops. One of them might
sell (or possibly give) you a scrap large enough for the Workmate top.
If you're really lucky, you might even stumble upon a scrap of walnut,
mahogany, or cherry! <G>
Are any of your golf club customers contractors? They might provide a
name as a favor.
Why not just go to Black & Decker and order/buy a new part. Workmates are
tools just like all of the other tools that they make and they should be
able to supply that as a spare part. All you need to know is which version
of Workmate that it is.
--
Charley
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
> >
> > How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that
> > the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
>
>
> I'd use some coarse sand paper (24-36 grit if you have it) or a even a
> rasp to grind back the wood fibers to a clean surface.
>
> I know you don't want to remove the pieces from the W/M, but you must
> make sure the surfaces are clean and free from any residual glue from
> your previous attempt at repair.
>
> Don't worry about removing more wood, you are after a clean and rough
> surface, and the epoxy will replace it.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> Actually, the panel by itself (and I mean just 1) sells for ~$20 +
> S&H. That would cost me less to buy the whole thing on ebay.
>> Lew
>
> The epoxy is curing.
Find some place that sells fiberglass tape or 10 OZ glass cloth as a
repair kit.
If you have a West Marine or equal, they will have it.
You only need something like 3"-4" wide x 12" long, say two layers.
Use a couple of layers of glass on the bottom side and that repair
will be "Strong Like Bull"
Lew
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> I should never use power tools when I'm tired, i know better, but ...
>
> I have made a perfect strait cut all the way through the front panel
> of my workmate with my circular saw.
>
> Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
>
> I appreciate your inputs
>
> Vince
>
It probably won't help to know your in good company. From the golden
ages of rec.woodworking's past...
__________<begin message>_____________
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: (Patrick Olguin)
Date: Wed, Nov 30 1994 7:10 pm
Subject: Your Biggest Boner
Sorry, this is not a cross posting from alt.sex.large_appendages :-).
It has to do with your biggest blooper/boner related to woodworking.
I made a wildy funny mistake while almost woodworking the other day.
I related it to a couple of rec.ww chums, and they suggested I post it
if I could stand the ridicule. So here goes.
I had some old 3/8" plywood that had been sitting outside in the
weather... well, what passes for weather down here in So Cal :-).
Anyway, I decided that my father-in-law could use the plywood for
firewood, since it was ruined for any other use. So, I dragged the two
4x8 sheets outside, plopped them on my trusty Workmate, and began
cutting. Well, it wasn't long before the cheap steel blade in my Skil 77
started to go dull, and bind. So, being the clever guy I am, I whipped
out my new, 60 tooth, carbide tipped blade. I unplugged the saw (I'm
kinda attached to my fingers), and changed blades. While changing
blades, I adjusted the foot to full blade-depth to make the change a
little easier.... but then forgot to readjust.
With the new blade locked in place, I plugged in the saw, clamped down
the workpiece, and proceeded to make the most effortless cut you ever
saw: right through that wimpy 3/8 plywood, _and_ the sheet metal of my
Workmate! That Skil 77 never even slowed down. When I unclamped the
workpiece, the two halves of the Workmate flopped to the ground. My
father-in-law started laughing so hard, I really thought he was going to
have a heart attack. Pat the mighty woodworker does in his Workmate.
You know how a really nice carbide blade will make shavings, not
sawdust? Well, there were neat little wood _and_ sheet metal shavings
where my fallen Workmate lay. Oh well, I need to make a _real_ workbench
anyway :-).
****************
So, your challenge is to one-up this story, and own up to your
horrendous/silly mistakes. Please, no dismemberment stories this time
around =8-0.
Patrick
Just say To Err is human, to really screw up requires a 13 amp,
worm-drive Skil 77.
etc.
___________<end message>_____________
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>
> How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that
> the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
I'd use some coarse sand paper (24-36 grit if you have it) or a even a
rasp to grind back the wood fibers to a clean surface.
I know you don't want to remove the pieces from the W/M, but you must
make sure the surfaces are clean and free from any residual glue from
your previous attempt at repair.
Don't worry about removing more wood, you are after a clean and rough
surface, and the epoxy will replace it.
Have fun.
Lew
Well, you don't mention the model number and they have made several versions
over the years, but here is what I would do. Measure the old one, cut
suitable material to match, drill where necessary and attach.
No big deal.
--
Best Regards,
Phil
Living In The Woods Of Beautiful Bonney Lake, Washington
Visit My Web Site www.philsfun.com
"Life_Is_Good_In_Austin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I should never use power tools when I'm tired, i know better, but ...
>
> I have made a perfect strait cut all the way through the front panel
> of my workmate with my circular saw.
>
> Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
>
> I appreciate your inputs
>
> Vince
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin <[email protected]> wrote:
>I should never use power tools when I'm tired, i know better, but ...
>
>I have made a perfect strait cut all the way through the front panel
>of my workmate with my circular saw.
>
>Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
>
>I appreciate your inputs
>
>Vince
>
It's just a piece of plywood with holes. I used baltic birch to replace
mine.
Not that I'd ever saw through it or anything, no I'd never do anything
like that...
--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf.lonestar.org
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> I should never use power tools when I'm tired, i know better, but ...
>
> I have made a perfect strait cut all the way through the front panel
> of my workmate with my circular saw.
>
> Any suggestion to repair or replace it?
Very straight forward.
Take a 1x4 piece, wrap it with clear packing tape, then C-clamp to the
underside of the cut part.
Cover front and back edges with more packing tape to seal the cut edge.
Pour in epoxy, maybe 1/2 full at most, and allow to dry.
Keep an eye on the tape edges to insure epoxy doesn't drain out of cut.
Next day, fill proud with more epoxy and let set up.
Wait 48 hours, remove tape and 1/4, sand as req'd.
You are good to go.
SFWIW, been there, done that, don't need the T-Shirt.
Lew
B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 16 Feb 2007 19:45:36 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>Then if it still fails, what would you recommend to use as a
>>replacement panel. I'm looking for something hard enough that would
>>not warp?
>
>My newer Workmate has a bamboo top! The older one has particle board.
Actually, I think there have been LOTS of versions. Mine (~30 years
old) is 3/4" ply, doubled at the inside (to make 1.5" thick vise jaw)
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Doug Brown wrote:
> I don't want to question your method, Lew, but as I read the OP's
original
> post, he cut right through the panel, not just cutting a groove in it
but
> making it into two separate pieces. I fully believe that your method
would
> work well for repairing a kerf sized groove but I am not so sure that it
> would work for joining the two pieces back together.
If the repair is made correctly, don't bet the farm. The repair is far
stronger that the basic wood.
If you truly want strength, lay a piece of 6-10 glass on each side.
Lew
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 05:53:08 -0500, J. Clarke <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 16 Feb 2007 19:45:36 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Feb 16, 6:51 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>>> ...
>>> It probably won't help to know your in good company. From the golden
>>> ages of rec.woodworking's past...
>>>
>>> __________<begin message>_____________
>>>
>>> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>>> From: (Patrick Olguin)
>>> Date: Wed, Nov 30 1994 7:10 pm
>>>
... snip
>
>I believe that the panels are 3/4" phenolic-faced plywood. You can
>get a piece of that from Woodcraft--it will be green, not brown, but
>should be the same stuff--might want to replace both pieces so they
>look the same.
That, or he can just wait until he saws through the other side before
replacing it.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On 16 Feb 2007 19:45:36 -0800, "Life_Is_Good_In_Austin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Feb 16, 6:51 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
>> ...
>> It probably won't help to know your in good company. From the golden
>> ages of rec.woodworking's past...
>>
>> __________<begin message>_____________
>>
>> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>> From: (Patrick Olguin)
>> Date: Wed, Nov 30 1994 7:10 pm
>>
>> Subject: Your Biggest Boner
>>
>> Sorry, this is not a cross posting from alt.sex.large_appendages :-).
>> It has to do with your biggest blooper/boner related to woodworking.
>>
>> I made a wildy funny mistake while almost woodworking the other day.
>> I related it to a couple of rec.ww chums, and they suggested I post it
>> if I could stand the ridicule. So here goes.
>>
>> I had some old 3/8" plywood that had been sitting outside in the
>> weather... well, what passes for weather down here in So Cal :-).
>> Anyway, I decided that my father-in-law could use the plywood for
>> firewood, since it was ruined for any other use. So, I dragged the two
>> 4x8 sheets outside, plopped them on my trusty Workmate, and began
>> cutting. Well, it wasn't long before the cheap steel blade in my Skil 77
>> started to go dull, and bind. So, being the clever guy I am, I whipped
>> out my new, 60 tooth, carbide tipped blade. I unplugged the saw (I'm
>> kinda attached to my fingers), and changed blades. While changing
>> blades, I adjusted the foot to full blade-depth to make the change a
>> little easier.... but then forgot to readjust.
>>
>> With the new blade locked in place, I plugged in the saw, clamped down
>> the workpiece, and proceeded to make the most effortless cut you ever
>> saw: right through that wimpy 3/8 plywood, _and_ the sheet metal of my
>> Workmate! That Skil 77 never even slowed down. When I unclamped the
>> workpiece, the two halves of the Workmate flopped to the ground. My
>> father-in-law started laughing so hard, I really thought he was going to
>> have a heart attack. Pat the mighty woodworker does in his Workmate.
>>
>> You know how a really nice carbide blade will make shavings, not
>> sawdust? Well, there were neat little wood _and_ sheet metal shavings
>> where my fallen Workmate lay. Oh well, I need to make a _real_ workbench
>> anyway :-).
>>
>> ****************
>>
>> So, your challenge is to one-up this story, and own up to your
>> horrendous/silly mistakes. Please, no dismemberment stories this time
>> around =8-0.
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>> Just say To Err is human, to really screw up requires a 13 amp,
>> worm-drive Skil 77.
>> etc.
>> ___________<end message>_____________
>>
>> --
>> Jack Novak
>> Buffalo, NY - USA
>> [email protected]
>
>Very good! I feel kind of better now ;-)
>
>Thanks for all the replies. I've started with 1/8" insert and the
>glue. If it fails, I'll try the epoxy (as a golf club maker, have
>plenty of it).
>Then if it still fails, what would you recommend to use as a
>replacement panel. I'm looking for something hard enough that would
>not warp?
I believe that the panels are 3/4" phenolic-faced plywood. You can
get a piece of that from Woodcraft--it will be green, not brown, but
should be the same stuff--might want to replace both pieces so they
look the same.
Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> I will give it a try tonight.
Don't try to do the whole job in one shot.
Thicken the epoxy to the consistency of mayo so that it will NOT pour,
but rather needs to be pushed into the groove with a stick.
Fill the top half of the cut a little proud, then wait at least 72 hours.
Switch the 1x4 from top to bottom and re-clamp, then finish filling a
little proud.
Wait 72 hours, sand both sides flush and enjoy.
Lew