Repair of an 1800's wood-framed upright piano... what glue?

I have tried using hide glue but since the joint is relatively wide
and long (cracked off) the hide glue cools off too fast before I can
clamp it properly.

I tried adding water and making the hide glue thinner but no go.

so I was thinking titebond would be better.

but one problem I do have is that any thickness due to the glue not
squeezing out makes it so that the joint is misaligned..

how should I approach the problem with titebond?

how much time have I got before titebond loses adhesive qualities?

alfred wrote:
> I have an 1840 upright which is of the same type as Chopin used to
> use.
>
> I got it for relatively cheap and it arrived with a cracked left leg,
> but it is a historic instrument with potential worth.
<snip>
> the problem lies in the fact that the crack is not totally accessable,
> the wood is oxidized and somewhat dirty with dust and glue.
>
> I can clamp it together alright but I am not sure hide glue will stick
> properly to the surface..since it is not a fresh crack..

New hide glue will stick to old hide glue. However, with dust and dirt
and crap in there I'd be tempted to try and wash it out with warm water
first.

I'd probably stay away from yellow glues as they would be very difficult
to re-glue if it cracked again.

I'm no expert, so I'm curious to see what the others have to say.

Chris

alfred wrote:

> I have tried using hide glue but since the joint is relatively wide
> and long (cracked off) the hide glue cools off too fast before I can
> clamp it properly.

Try the liquid hide glue. Not quite as strong, but plenty strong enough.
--
It's turtles, all the way down