I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Oct 12, 6:00=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> >>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
> >>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>
> >> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
> >> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
> >> the curve.
> >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90=B0 to the surface. If you do
> > anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
> > lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
> > tight as possible.
> > Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
>
> In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
> "system."
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I have also used the 'system' to butt-join laminated countertops with
very good results.
On Oct 12, 2:08=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >>> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end pane=
l
> >>> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> >>> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
> >> Oh crap. =A0Go away, would you!?
>
> >> --
>
> >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
> > veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
> > hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
> > The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
> > less effective with anything else.
> > It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
> > wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
> > edge time and time gain.
> > It works, dammit.
>
> I'm intrigued, believe me. =A0I see that Freud has one, too.
> I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
> you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
> joined.
>
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
That wavy bit router base is available for $ 46.00. That and the bit
will give you a system that will make you slap your forehead.
BUT
there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
> building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
> do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
> long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
I only use the TS and had a jointer for about 25 years. I never used the
jointer, so to speak and got rid of it about 6 months ago.
IMHO for the most part it is hard to run an 8' board through common sized
jointers. If my board is not straight I use a sled to straighten the edge
on my TS. Typically my TS edges come out better than they ever did from my
jointer.
On Oct 12, 12:40=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. =A0Thanks guys.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
I have to say that I find this whole thread surprising. I've never
used a jointer for glue up edges. The thought that you might need one
for every cut...
For the OP, here's a suggestion (and I know I'm going to get flamed
for it, but it's true...) -- you mentioned the length of your cuts
which makes me think you may have an issue with support for long
pieces on your table saw, which may be leading to some of your
problems. For really long and accurate cuts, I actually end up using
my circular saw and jig... I support my piece on a couple sheets of
MDF, which is suspended above the ground by some 2x4's. I clamp on my
jig,and make the cut. Because my jig is made from MDF as well, I know
the cut will be perfectly straight. So long as it's clamped to the
cut piece securely, and I'm careful to hold the saw properly, I can
make multiple repeated cuts, that are, quite frankly, dead on. With a
good blade, the cut is perfectly smooth (within .1mm I'm sure).
If the board warps as the previous poster mentioned, you can simply
use clamps to compensate while gluing up. Once the glue dries, it
shouldn't be an issue.
(and let the flames begin...)
John
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote
> Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
> up the offset?
Flatness while mating. Isn't that what they used to call the Methodist
position?
Max
On Oct 13, 6:24=A0pm, Kevin <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> >I'm building for a client. =A0The longest panels will be 42".
>
> >In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> >mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> > =A0I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
> >blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
> saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
> way in hell can I go straight to a glue up. =A0
>
> Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
> felt better about things ;)
>
> -Kevin
Fun, huh?
On Oct 12, 1:54=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > =A0 zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
> > much luck with it, I never looked back.
>
> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
> 'wave?"
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
On Oct 12, 7:21=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/2010 6:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> >>> How rude of me...
>
> >>>http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
>
> >>>http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
> > The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.
>
> Makes me want to go find some solid surface material to play with. I'm
> sure I can find a use for this somewhere down the line ... an answer
> looking for a question.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
But but but it works for everything. I have taken a 4x8 sheet of
cherry veneer and cut it crosswise into 3 pieces and wavybitted the
three pieces together to face a sit-down bar. You can see that on my
old website www.topworks.ca
On Oct 12, 2:20=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 12, 2:08=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > >>> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end pa=
nel
> > >>> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> > >>> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
> > >> Oh crap. =A0Go away, would you!?
>
> > >> --
>
> > >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > > Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
> > > veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
> > > hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
> > > The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
> > > less effective with anything else.
> > > It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
> > > wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
> > > edge time and time gain.
> > > It works, dammit.
>
> > I'm intrigued, believe me. =A0I see that Freud has one, too.
> > I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume get=
s
> > you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
> > joined.
>
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
>
> That wavy bit router base is available for $ 46.00. That and the bit
> will give you a system that will make you slap your forehead.
> BUT
>
> there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.
3 sections glued together my way.
http://topworks.ca/Resources/Kitchen-2.jpg
On Oct 12, 5:27=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 2:06 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>
>
> > If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
> > able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
> > mate perfectly without any shim required.
>
> I guess I'm picturing this correctly. =A0However, with what Robo says
> about the top surface, that may not work out correctly. =A0Of course, I'm
> not sure it would matter for wood... maybe it would. =A0(pun)
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
It is all about that top surface. Whatever happens to the bottom edge
would be in variance to the thickness accuracy.
On Oct 12, 10:27=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> I'm building for a client. =A0The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> =A0 I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
> blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I remember that an electrical tool can do this easily.
----------------
http://www.towood.com/ is a market place for importers and exporters
to trading furniture, plywood, timbers, hardwood floors, MDF, HDF,
tropical logs.
On Oct 12, 7:23=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> > ... an answer
> > looking for a question.
>
> That's the urge I'm trying to resist. =A0 :-)
>
what??? you scaredycat?
On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade,
> a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.
Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
smaller panels with excellent results.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Oct 12, 8:36=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 6:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > On Oct 12, 7:23 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> >>> ... an answer
> >>> looking for a question.
>
> >> That's the urge I'm trying to resist. =A0 :-)
>
> > what??? you scaredycat?
>
> No. =A0:-) =A0 I'm schedule bound.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
schedule schmedule
On Oct 12, 2:47=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 1:20 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
> > there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.
>
> well?...... =A0 :-)
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
On Oct 12, 12:47=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/2010 11:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> > On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
> >>> Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)
>
> >> When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
> >> single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
> >> jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.
>
> > Forgive my density. :-)
> > You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
> > Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
> > and glue?
>
> No ... with critical panel glue-ups in expensive stock, and once the
> stock is correctly dimensioned to project spec, _I_ prefer to use _only_
> the jointer to prepare the edges of the stock for glue-up.
>
> The reason I do this as already been stated ... I personally have gotten
> the best results with this method down through the years. The theory has
> always been proven in the results for my way of working. YMMV ...
>
> Leon is one of the finest cabinet/furniture makers I have ever had the
> pleasure of knowing/working with.
>
> His preference is completely different than mine in this regard, but you
> can't argue with our respective results despite the different preference
> in methods.
>
> Whatever works for you ...
>
zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.
"routerman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d430096a-81c2-4be5-b109-28d88a3fdd2a@z20g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
Perfect boards, no drying stresses, sharp rip blade, saw tuned, blade
parallel to fence?
Then expect a good time & a good glue line without jointing.
Reality: Rarely are any 2 sticks parallel along their edges after
sawing. As stress is released the work goes its own way (always out of
parallel) & chatters against the blade no matter what the quality of
the blade may be.
Perfect edges essential? Then joint.
I am not quite sure why the mention of 2 sticks not being parallel after
sawing would be of any matter. Jointing will not aid in bringing board
edges parallel either. Board edges need not be parallel to form a panel.
Board edges only need to be straight, which a TS and a jointer will do.
Granted a board may not remain straight after being cut on a TS but another
trip through the TS on a sled, not unlike multiple passes through a jointer,
will again recreate the straight edge.
On 10/11/10 10:27 PM, in article [email protected],
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
> blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
It wasn't me, but I do glue ups with edges directly from the table saw. What
it requires is a good blade (Forrest WWII for me) and careful alignment of
the saw.
Note that you do need a good straight edge to run against the saw fence. A
jointer can be helpful in getting that starting point. You can achieve the
same thing with a sled that holds the board straight for the initial cut,
but that takes a bit of work to set up. Or you can go back to hand tools and
use a plane.
On 10/12/2010 11:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)
>>
>> When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
>> single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
>> jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.
>>
>
> Forgive my density. :-)
> You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
> Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
> and glue?
No ... with critical panel glue-ups in expensive stock, and once the
stock is correctly dimensioned to project spec, _I_ prefer to use _only_
the jointer to prepare the edges of the stock for glue-up.
The reason I do this as already been stated ... I personally have gotten
the best results with this method down through the years. The theory has
always been proven in the results for my way of working. YMMV ...
Leon is one of the finest cabinet/furniture makers I have ever had the
pleasure of knowing/working with.
His preference is completely different than mine in this regard, but you
can't argue with our respective results despite the different preference
in methods.
Whatever works for you ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
> building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
> do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
> long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade, I
don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm sure
many others leave a good finish also.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
> blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.
I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.
If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.
> >
> > I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.
> >
> > If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
> > go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
> > for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
> > they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
> > the ones I have do a fine job.
> >
>
> I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
> I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
> excuse to get a WWII.
>
> Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
or crosscut respectively.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> > On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> >>
> >>> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
> >>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
> >>
> >> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
> >> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
> >> 'wave?"
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> -MIKE-
> >>
> >
> > an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> > or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> > I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> > drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> > I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> > I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> > http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
>
> If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
> that and make a test cut to check it.
> I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
> table, so that's not an issue.
> Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
> function as a jointer as well.
If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
mate perfectly without any shim required.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.
>>
>> I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.
>>
>> If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
>> go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
>> for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
>> they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
>> the ones I have do a fine job.
>>
>
> I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
> I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
> excuse to get a WWII.
>
> Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
I quit swapping blades when I bought a WWII. I get a cut when ripping
normal thickness stock that is shiney smooth with out tooth marks. You
might be able to get a better cut from another blade buty what would be the
point. As it is the edge does not have to be sanded for appearance sake.
Now if you are going to be ripping THICK stock you might opt for a rip
blade. 10+ years and I only use a rip blade for ripping 2x4's.
On 10/12/2010 11:15 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>> I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
>>> I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
>>> excuse to get a WWII.
>>>
>>> Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
>>
>> Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
>> I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.
>>
>> The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
>> to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
>> new job coming up.
>>
>> As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
>> quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...
>>
>
> Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)
Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose
blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.
The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting,
specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.
In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock
for making glue line ready rip cuts.
That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker
hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade
is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.
When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.
I would use the WWII and would more or less feel comfortable doing so,
but it would not be the first tool I would reach for.
The difference between mediocrity and supremacy is attention to detail.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:16:00 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 13, 6:24 pm, Kevin <[email protected]> wrote:
>> This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
>> saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
>> way in hell can I go straight to a glue up.
>>
>> Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
>> felt better about things ;)
>>
>> -Kevin
>
>Fun, huh?
Yeah, but then you make me feel inadequate about my cnc ;)
-Kevin
On Oct 12, 1:35=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 12, 12:40=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. =A0Thanks guys.
>
> > --
>
> > =A0 -MIKE-
>
> > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> > =A0 --
> > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> > =A0 [email protected]
> > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
How rude of me...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
On Oct 12, 2:15=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> >>> =A0 =A0zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had=
so
> >>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>
> >> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T=
&G.
> >> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of on=
e
> >> 'wave?"
>
> >> --
>
> >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> > or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> > I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> > drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> > I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> > I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> >http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
>
> If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
> that and make a test cut to check it.
> I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
> table, so that's not an issue.
> Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
> function as a jointer as well.
>
Well...yes.... that's the whole idea. But I'd run the router along a
fence, unless the pieces were small.
On Oct 12, 6:40=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Oct 12, 1:35=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Oct 12, 12:40=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> > I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. =A0Thanks guys.
>
> >> > --
>
> >> > =A0 -MIKE-
>
> >> > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in lif=
e"
> >> > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> >> > =A0 --
> >> > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> >> > =A0 [email protected]
> >> > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> >> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
> >> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> >> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
> >How rude of me...
>
> >http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
>
> >http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
>
> Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. =A0What's the process to set
> up the offset?
>
> --
> Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
> alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
> is people who have come alive. =A0 =A0 =A0-- Howard Thurman
The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.
On Oct 12, 1:51=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. =A0Thanks guys.
>
> >> --
>
> >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
> > glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> > Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
> Oh crap. =A0Go away, would you!?
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.
On Oct 12, 3:06=A0pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> > > On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> > >> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > >>> =A0 =A0zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and h=
ad so
> > >>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>
> > >> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like=
T&G.
> > >> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of =
one
> > >> 'wave?"
>
> > >> --
>
> > >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> > > an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> > > or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> > > I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> > > drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> > > I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> > > I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> > >http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
>
> > If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
> > that and make a test cut to check it.
> > I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
> > table, so that's not an issue.
> > Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
> > function as a jointer as well.
>
> If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
> able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
> mate perfectly without any shim required.
Only if the thickness is in perfect increments of .125"
On Oct 12, 1:45=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 12, 1:35=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 12, 12:40=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. =A0Thanks guys.
>
> > > --
>
> > > =A0 -MIKE-
>
> > > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life=
"
> > > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> > > =A0 --
> > > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> > > =A0 [email protected]
> > > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> > Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
> > glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> > Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
> How rude of me...
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
>
> http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
*coughs*..
we try
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
Perfect boards, no drying stresses, sharp rip blade, saw tuned, blade
parallel to fence?
Then expect a good time & a good glue line without jointing.
Reality: Rarely are any 2 sticks parallel along their edges after
sawing. As stress is released the work goes its own way (always out of
parallel) & chatters against the blade no matter what the quality of
the blade may be.
Perfect edges essential? Then joint.
In fact & moreover, given FAS, no sawing is required for a panel
assembly! Joint all edges (after flattening & thicknessing), select
best figure & color, line 'em up, glue, then rip the panel to width.
Router Woodworking: http://www.patwarner.com
*****************************************************
On Oct 11, 7:27=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
> I'm building for a client. =A0The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> =A0 I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
> blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
>I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
>In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
>mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
> I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
>blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up.
Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things ;)
-Kevin
On Oct 12, 5:14=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
> > want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>
> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
> the curve.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90=B0 to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 12, 1:35 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.
>>
>> > --
>>
>> > -MIKE-
>>
>> > "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
>> > --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
>> > --
>> > http://mikedrums.com
>> > [email protected]
>> > ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>>
>> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
>> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
>> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>
>How rude of me...
>
>http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
>
>http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
up the offset?
--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
On 10/11/10 9:33 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
>> I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>>
>> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
>> mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table
>> saw. I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
>> blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.
>>
>> Any of you guys remember writing that?
>> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
>> Is there a better saw blade for this?
>
> Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade,
> I don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm
> sure many others leave a good finish also.
You may have been the poster I was thinking about, Ed.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/11/10 9:40 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.
>
I've been looking at that blade.
It doesn't seem too expensive, especially considering I don't have a
great rip-only blade.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
...
> Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.
>
> Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
> glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
> complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
> from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
> smaller panels with excellent results.
What he said (on both counts)...
:)
--
On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
> building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".
>
> In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone mentioned
> that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I do have a
> jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a long rip fence
> and a long outfeed table.
>
> Any of you guys remember writing that?
> Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
> Is there a better saw blade for this?
I do it all the time with a Forrest Woodworker II mounted in my finely tuned
Unisaw, and never think twice about it.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.
>
> I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.
>
> If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
> go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
> for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
> they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
> the ones I have do a fine job.
>
I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.
Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
>> I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
>> excuse to get a WWII.
>>
>> Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
>
> Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
> I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.
>
> The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
> to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
> new job coming up.
>
> As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
> quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...
>
Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 11:03 AM, John wrote:
> I have to say that I find this whole thread surprising. I've never
> used a jointer for glue up edges. The thought that you might need one
> for every cut...
>
> For the OP, here's a suggestion (and I know I'm going to get flamed
> for it, but it's true...) -- you mentioned the length of your cuts
> which makes me think you may have an issue with support for long
> pieces on your table saw, which may be leading to some of your
> problems.
I actually mentioned that I do have a long outfeed table. There are no
problems.
I'm asking because I now *have* good equipment and don't want to take
extra, unnecessary, steps, if the saw will do the trick, alone.
> For really long and accurate cuts, I actually end up using
> my circular saw and jig... I support my piece on a couple sheets of
> MDF, which is suspended above the ground by some 2x4's. I clamp on my
> jig,and make the cut. Because my jig is made from MDF as well, I know
> the cut will be perfectly straight. So long as it's clamped to the
> cut piece securely, and I'm careful to hold the saw properly, I can
> make multiple repeated cuts, that are, quite frankly, dead on. With a
> good blade, the cut is perfectly smooth (within .1mm I'm sure).
>
That's the technique I used before I had a good table saw.
I still have the jigs for cutting panels on site, when I don't have a
table saw, or for rough cutting panels my little shop.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)
>
> When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
> single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
> jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.
>
Forgive my density. :-)
You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
and glue?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>
> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
Oh crap. Go away, would you!?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Oct 15, 9:06=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/13/10 2:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > On Oct 13, 3:29 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> By the way, I just came home with this...
> >> <http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin=
...>
>
> > Great blade. Used it a lot.
>
> This blade is living up to its hype.
> First thing I noticed is that the stock moves a lot faster with a
> dedicated rip blade.
> Second thing I noticed is that the cut surface comes out looking as good
> or better than a edge done on a router.
> With the exception of some light burns due to operator error, it cuts a
> pristine edge.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
IMHO, table saws shine at ripping, it is what they do best. Cutting
panels to size (plywood, MDF, PB) is another of its strong points, but
a proper panel saw does that job better and takes up way less space,
but you can't rip lumber on a panel saw, so table saw it is.
On Oct 13, 3:29=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> By the way, I just came home with this...
> <http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin...=
>
>
> I love multitaskers and I've never had a good rip blade.
> I know I paid too much, but that silly schedule schmedule got the best
> of me.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Great blade. Used it a lot.
On Oct 13, 12:04=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> >> On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> >>> On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0 wrote:
> >>>> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> >>>>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
> >>>>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8=
".
>
> >>>> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up wit=
h
> >>>> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out =
in
> >>>> the curve.
> >>>> =A0 =A0 -MIKE-
>
> >>> You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90=B0 to the surface. If you d=
o
> >>> anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
> >>> lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
> >>> tight as possible.
> >>> Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
>
> >> In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
> >> "system."
>
> > Can you give a link to the manual? =A0I couldn't find it.
>
> There website is horrible.
> <http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...=
>
> orhttp://xrl.us/trumatch
>
> If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
> "tru-match" under "model."
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Oh my.....
That base is a piece of awfulness. It flexes, doesn't stay true and
simply isn't big enough.
$ 46.00 buys a precision phenolic base from Pinske.
You don't have to buy his insert bit holder and wavy bit inserts,
because the PC and Freud ones work just fine.
http://www.pinske-edge.com
Look for 'wavy bit' and base.
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
>>>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>>>
>>> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
>>> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
>>> the curve.
>>> -MIKE-
>>
>> You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
>> anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
>> lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
>> tight as possible.
>> Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
>
>In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
>"system."
Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.
On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>> On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
>>>>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>>>>
>>>> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
>>>> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
>>>> the curve.
>>>> -MIKE-
>>>
>>> You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
>>> anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
>>> lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
>>> tight as possible.
>>> Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
>>
>> In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
>> "system."
>
> Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.
There website is horrible.
<http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Porter-Cable/699353,692.pdf>
or
http://xrl.us/trumatch
If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
"tru-match" under "model."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/13/10 12:45 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 13, 12:04 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>
>>>> On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>>>> On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>>>>>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
>>>>>>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>>
>>>>>> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
>>>>>> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
>>>>>> the curve.
>>>>>> -MIKE-
>>
>>>>> You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
>>>>> anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
>>>>> lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
>>>>> tight as possible.
>>>>> Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
>>
>>>> In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
>>>> "system."
>>
>>> Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.
>>
>> There website is horrible.
>> <http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...>
>> orhttp://xrl.us/trumatch
>>
>> If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
>> "tru-match" under "model."
>>
>
> Oh my.....
> That base is a piece of awfulness. It flexes, doesn't stay true and
> simply isn't big enough.
> $ 46.00 buys a precision phenolic base from Pinske.
> You don't have to buy his insert bit holder and wavy bit inserts,
> because the PC and Freud ones work just fine.
>
> http://www.pinske-edge.com
>
> Look for 'wavy bit' and base.
It wasn't an endorsement from me. I was just looking for pictures for
my feeble brain. :-)
http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/product/17/wavy-base-no-holes/
http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/product/18/wavy-base-wholes/
His stuff definitely looks better.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
By the way, I just came home with this...
<http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Ripping-Saw-Blade.aspx>
I love multitaskers and I've never had a good rip blade.
I know I paid too much, but that silly schedule schmedule got the best
of me.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/13/10 2:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 13, 3:29 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> By the way, I just came home with this...
>> <http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin...>
>
> Great blade. Used it a lot.
This blade is living up to its hype.
First thing I noticed is that the stock moves a lot faster with a
dedicated rip blade.
Second thing I noticed is that the cut surface comes out looking as good
or better than a edge done on a router.
With the exception of some light burns due to operator error, it cuts a
pristine edge.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>
So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>> Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
>>> glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
>>> Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.
>>
>> Oh crap. Go away, would you!?
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
> veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
> hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
> The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
> less effective with anything else.
> It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
> wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
> edge time and time gain.
> It works, dammit.
I'm intrigued, believe me. I see that Freud has one, too.
I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
joined.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
>>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>>
>> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
>> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
>> 'wave?"
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
>>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>>
>> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
>> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
>> 'wave?"
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
>>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>>
>> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
>> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
>> 'wave?"
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
>>> much luck with it, I never looked back.
>>
>> So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
>> Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
>> 'wave?"
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
> or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
> I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
> drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
> I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
> I think Tom calls it SeamRite
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u
If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 1:20 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.
>
well?...... :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 2:06 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
> If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
> able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
> mate perfectly without any shim required.
>
I guess I'm picturing this correctly. However, with what Robo says
about the top surface, that may not work out correctly. Of course, I'm
not sure it would matter for wood... maybe it would. (pun)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
>>> want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".
>>
>> You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
>> the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
>> the curve.
>> -MIKE-
>
> You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
> anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
> lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
> tight as possible.
> Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
> ... an answer
> looking for a question.
>
That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/2010 6:23 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> ... an answer
>> looking for a question.
>>
>
> That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)
A solution looking for a problem. I get those a lot. :-)
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/12/10 6:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 12, 7:23 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> ... an answer
>>> looking for a question.
>>
>> That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)
>>
> what??? you scaredycat?
>
No. :-) I'm schedule bound.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I've always used just a saw cut, and check the gap before gluing by
laying out the boards and trial fitting them. In the rare case that their
is some adjustment needed (Saw blade is a WW2, so it is pretty rare) I use
my 22 inch jointer to straighten that edge. (Jointer made by Stanley)
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 12:53:22 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
> WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
> need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
> blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
> give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
> or crosscut respectively.
I used to use the Freud rip and crosscut blades and they did a great
job. But since I bought a Freud Fusion I don't switch blades very often
- it's that good. But it's still not quite as good as the Freud rip
blade. It seems to be better than the Freud crosscut blade. And I no
longer use a plywood blade at all.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> I noticed on Amazon that there are several 10" Freud Glue line rip
> blades.
> Can you tell me which one you have had the good experiences with?
I have the LM74R010 which is the 30 teeth, 12 degree hook, full kerf,
10" blade with the red "perma-shield" coating. I am extremely pleased
with it.
As far as I can tell, the other Amazon blades are the thin kerf version
and the industial version. The industrial is the one that isn't red.
It has the "silver ice" non-stick coating, which I'm guessing
accomplishes the same thing as the red blade, without the red. :-)
The red version actually has "industrial" printed on it, too.
The thin kerf versions are for lower powered saws. If you have a
contractor saw that is under 2hp or so, thin kerf would help you out.
But if you have a cabinet or hybrid with a heavy duty motor, you'll want
the full kerf for stability.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman <[email protected]> writes:
> Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose
> blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.
>
> The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting,
> specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.
>
> In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock
> for making glue line ready rip cuts.
>
> That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker
> hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade
> is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.
>
> When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
> single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
> jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.
>
I noticed on Amazon that there are several 10" Freud Glue line rip
blades.
Can you tell me which one you have had the good experiences with?
On 10/12/2010 6:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>> How rude of me...
>>
>>> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TrueMatch.jpg
>>
>>> http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.com/Solid_Surface_Router_Bits.aspx
> The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.
Makes me want to go find some solid surface material to play with. I'm
sure I can find a use for this somewhere down the line ... an answer
looking for a question.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
> I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
> excuse to get a WWII.
>
> Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?
Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.
The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.
As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)