cutting thin wood

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 14:32:11 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
>piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
>them as throwaways.

Sometimes, it splinters them in the middle, too!

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

> they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?.

Sounds like some good suggestions so far, but you might not even have
to make them - Lee Valley has a selection of strips that might work
"as is".
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=40840&cat=1,250,43217
They don't list widths, but the 1/8" thick strips might be perfect, or
you could somehow trim down the 1/4" strips.
Hope this helps,
Andy

On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:



> First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
> measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".



I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.

k wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students.
We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be
1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous
of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.

Balsa strips from the hobby shop.

An Xacto knife will cut them to length.

Lew


> What wood were you planning to use?
>
> I'd consider getting some 1/8" or 1/4" thick poplar and then do the
> cutting on the bandsaw. It's been a few years, but Home Depot
stocked
> 1/8" x 4" x 36" poplar at reasonable prices. (it might have been
1/8" x
> 6" x 24" -- don't recall exactly.)

k wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.

Craft shop. Balsa wood comes in that size. Cheap.

k wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

You can buy basswood in many small sizes that would work well for this.
Stronger than balsa, and very fine grain that looks appropriate for
modeling. You can it get it at shops that carry model railroading supplies

I wouldn't use a table saw to make this stuff. A band saw is MUCH MUCH
safer for this kind of work. I use a 14" Ridgid to make the braces and
bindings for my acoustic guitars. It helps to have a drum sander to
sand 'em smooth afterwards.

--Steve

Limey Lurker wrote:
> On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>> First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
>> measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".
>
>
>
> I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.
>

Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"

If the scale is 1 to 16, then the correct dimensions would be 3/32" x 7/32"

--Steve

Leon wrote:
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Limey Lurker wrote:
>
>> Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
>> in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"
>>
>
> Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest
> to 32nds?
>
>

The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"

--Steve

Leon wrote:
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Limey Lurker wrote:
>>>> Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
>>>> in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"
>>>>
>>> Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the
>>> closest to 32nds?
>> The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"
>>
>> --Steve
>
> Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5"
> and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be
> .29166.....
>
>
Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still
pretty close.

--Steve

J. Clarke wrote:

> Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
> piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
> them as throwaways.
>

But the Performax works MUCH better for that kind of work. :-) Mine is
a 10/20.

--Steve

"k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

Many ways of doing that but here's one way:

1. Use a "Zero Clearance Insert"
2. Use the TS splitter on a well aligned tablesaw. Insure the fence is
aligned to the blade
3. Use push sticks
4. Keep the thin cut to the left side of the blade
5. Use a standard 1/8" thick kerf blade (or make adjustments if using a
thin-kerf blade)

2x4 on edge
------------------------
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| _ _ _ _ |
| | | | | | | | | |
|__| |__| |__| |__| |__| < cut 1/4" plus an RCH deep kerfs - spaced
1/8" apart, 1/8" wide.


After cutting the 1/4" deep kerfs, lay 2x4 on it's side and adjust TS fence
so the blade cuts the mini 2x4's off so they are 1/4" wide

6. Repeat starting at step 1.
7. Repeat until the 2x4 is to narrow for you to feel comfortable with.
There are jigs you can build or buy that allow cutting thin strips of wood
safely without endangering your fingers.

Bob S.

PS - Use at your own risk.....

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k wrote:

> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.


http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=14568

http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_Strip_Cutter.pdf

http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_triangle_cutter.pdf

On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 05:12:18 -0400, RLM wrote:

> On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k wrote:
>
>> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
>> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
>> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
>> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>
>
> http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=14568
>
> http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_Strip_Cutter.pdf
>
> http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_triangle_cutter.pdf

I have one that I made using a piece of plexiglass about the size of a
credit card, only the plexiglass is a quarter of an inch thick.

The plexiglass has two holes drilled in it for #4 stove bolts at an angle
to allow a single edge razor blade to be mounted so that one corner of the
blade extends below the plexiglass. The holes are the distance apart of
the notches in the blade to ride on the stove bolts.

I use washers to space the blade the width that I want to cut the wood and
secure it all together with #4 nuts. The plexiglass is run along the edge
of the wood to cut it in strips.

I use it to cut planks for model boats.

On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 06:12:05 -0400, RLM wrote:

> On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 05:12:18 -0400, RLM wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k wrote:
>>
>>> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
>>> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
>>> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
>>> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>>
>>
>> http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=14568
>>
>> http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_Strip_Cutter.pdf
>>
>> http://www.mmrca.org/articles/Balsa_triangle_cutter.pdf
>
> I have one that I made using a piece of plexiglass about the size of a
> credit card, only the plexiglass is a quarter of an inch thick.
>
> The plexiglass has two holes drilled in it for #4 stove bolts at an angle
> to allow a single edge razor blade to be mounted so that one corner of the
> blade extends below the plexiglass. The holes are the distance apart of
> the notches in the blade to ride on the stove bolts.
>
> I use washers to space the blade the width that I want to cut the wood and
> secure it all together with #4 nuts. The plexiglass is run along the edge
> of the wood to cut it in strips.
>
> I use it to cut planks for model boats.

If your going to cut 1/8" basswood or balsa.

How about a paper cutter. This is on sale now. Set the fence and shear
away. I may look into one of these myself.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=9805

This may be overkill. It could also be used for pasteboard/drywall and
balsa sheathing or clapboard siding although you can buy sheets that look
like clapboard. ;-)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90874

Wet or dry sandpaper makes excellent shingles also. You didn't mention how
much detail was going into this project. If you go for lighting, put it in
the ceilings. Solar power on the roof with battery backup is getting
popular now.

Forget about plumbing.

On Oct 17, 7:16 pm, k <[email protected]> wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.

It is easy to cut thin, narrow pieces like these with the right table
saw accessory. I use a grip-tite magnetic featherboard with the
roller guide. A sandpaper roller pulls the wood to the fence in front
of the blade, and plastic springs hold the wood down before and after
the blade. You push the first board thru the blade and under the
springs with the next board. You have to use a zero clearance
throatplate. The setup works on my aluminum saw. Had to clamp their
steel plate to my fence to hold the magnets.There's a video on you
tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzTo_lqcxfM
Be sure you use clear wood.

"BobS" <[email protected]> writes:

> 4. Keep the thin cut to the left side of the blade

i.e. The side away from the fence.

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Limey Lurker wrote:
>>
>>> Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
>>> in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"
>>>
>>
>> Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the
>> closest to 32nds?
>
> The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"
>
> --Steve

Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5"
and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be
.29166.....

"k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".

I would us Balsa wood and cut with an Exacta, or utility knife. Get the
wood at a hobby store.

k wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

What wood were you planning to use?

I'd consider getting some 1/8" or 1/4" thick poplar and then do the
cutting on the bandsaw. It's been a few years, but Home Depot stocked
1/8" x 4" x 36" poplar at reasonable prices. (it might have been 1/8" x
6" x 24" -- don't recall exactly.)

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>>
> Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still
> pretty close.


You probably did what I did the first time. LOL.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html

is an excellent and safe way to cut the thin stuff..

k wrote:

> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

"k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>
When I need thin strips like this I use the following procedure:
I make multiple cuts in the board to the size of one dimension. I
then take all the thin strips of wood and tape them together across the
ends. Set up saw and make multiple cuts for the other dimension. This
usually requires the resetting of the fence for each cut. I find that 4 ft
boards work better then 8 ft boards for this. Push sticks, feather boards
and masking tape are VERY helpful for this type of operation. (Unless I
need more then a few hundred I will normally use a band saw and resaw
techniques for the job rather then a table saw) Any one else have a better
method or clearer instructions.

"Limey Lurker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>

>
> I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.
>

No actually that would be the bad entry in my spread sheet. LOL

J. Clarke wrote:
> Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
> the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
> enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance
> you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.


Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?

I do, as I've tried it. <G>

If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of
faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
Performax 22/44.

Save yourself the time, cost of set up, dangers of cutting many thin scale
boards, cost of a good blade to get decent sticks, and on and on . . .
Many reasons why it is just cheaper, more consistent, and better to just buy
what you need. I highly recommend Balsa or Basswood.

Several years ago I wanted to build historically accurate scale houses, not
doll houses per se', but smaller desk top homes with scale dimensional
boards that are not just the today's standard 2 x 4's, 6's, 8's, 10's, and
12's. I had to cut my own to get what I wanted and I have learned
considerably since then.

If you need help with your project, I can help you and/or point you in a
good direction. If you need the supplies, I can help you there also.
Working with educators to build houses, bridges and towers for the Science
Olympiad competitions, and in general working with wood in the class is what
I do. My prices are cost effective for teachers and students, all the wood
is in bundle quantities and well taken care of.

If you only need enough for a few students and are building very simple and
limited structures of only a few walls, any hobby or craft store will
probably have enough in stock for you? Maybe, they are limited on
quantities and condition varies. And most of all, you will need more wood
than generally comes to mind when you think about building a little scale
house! History has taught me that but I live for physics, engineering,
automata's, and math.

You can respond directly if you need any further help and if you need the
wood, go to my site located below. Don't worry about the site seal. Trying
to renew after changing servers has proven to be a real headache and long
process.

Have fun with the process,
Patrick



At the risk of self promotion,

www.woodbythebundle.com

P. G. Bray's "WoodByTheBundle.com"
Support your local Science Olympiad team and future scientist or engineer.

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Limey Lurker wrote:

>
> Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
> in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"
>

Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest
to 32nds?

k wrote:
> I want to make some house construction projects with my students.
> We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be
> 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.

If you've got a band saw and a planer you could try it this way--resaw
a board into pieces maybe 5/16 thick, then plane to 1/4. Now, cut
those into maybe 3/16 strips. Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance
you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

B A R R Y wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
>> the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
>> enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of
>> allowance you need is going to depend on your particular tools and
>> skill level.
>
>
> Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?
>
> I do, as I've tried it. <G>
>
> If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds
> of
> faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
> Performax 22/44.

Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
them as throwaways.

Of course I've got a radial arm saw. One thing it does _real_ good is
cut thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch stock. But since he probably
doesn't have one . . .

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>
I cut some 1/4x1/4 yesterday. It wasn't a big deal.
You need something to hold the wood against the fence, and a stick to hold
the wood down, but there is no reason to have your fingers near the blade.

If I wanted them in large quantities I would have cut a 1/8" sheet on the
bandsaw and then trimmed on the table saw, but I only needed 15'.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
>need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
>x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
>cutting a finger on the table saw.


When cutting small or thin pieces on the table saw, use a much larger
piece against the fence to allow a thin slice to fall off away from
the saw. It also helps to have a zero-clearance throat plate,
featherboard, and your DC running. The larger piece should be squared
up and flat on all sides. If you don't have a table saw, a band saw
will work reasonably well.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k wrote:

> I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.

Go to any model railroad hobby shop. Or look at:

http://www.kapplerusa.com/

Maxwell Lol wrote:
> "BobS" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> 4. Keep the thin cut to the left side of the blade
>
> i.e. The side away from the fence.
>


Not for me.

I would cut the OP's strips by starting with a 1/4" plank.

- Install a zero clearance insert with a SHORT (low height, shorter than
the stock is thick) shop-made splitter
- Set the fence for 1/8"
- Set the blade height ~ 9-10/32" (1/32-1/16" above the stock.
- Use two push BLOCKS (not sticks) to run the stock through. Walk the
blocks hand over hand, knowing in advance that the rubber on the bottom
of the block will be grooved by the blade. Concentrate the forces down
at the splitter and slightly toward the fence. You'll need less force
than you'd think. I often stand to the side of the saw, jointer-style
for this operation.
- Enjoy perfect strips

Go to <http://www.bburke.com/woodworking/shopmadejigsandtools.html> and
scroll down to the "push blocks with sacrificial pads". The ZCS w/
splitter is easily made like the version shown on the same page.

I've cut miles of thin spruce, maple, poplar, bass, and plywood strips
for large scale R/C, as well as oak "slip tongues" for hardwood flooring
using this method.

I did this some time in the past, and here's what worked for me.

In order to work well for a model, the wood has to be stronger than balsa.
I used aspen, but there are other 1/8" thick craft woods available. The
pieces also have to be almost exactly uniform to get a good result.

I made a sled out of 3/4" stock and some masonite that would push the wood
through the saw with the edge 1/4" away from the blade. I bought 1/8" aspen
(about 6 x 24") from Menards. Michaels Hobby has it too.

Using the sled, I didn't have to reset the fence each time, and the results
were almost uniform in width. I pressed against the outside edge to keep
the wood in place on the sled. When the outside edge got uncomfortably
close to the blade, I abandoned the narrow piece and started another.

A few pieces went down the saw slot, I don't know how. A zero clearance
plate would have helped, but I didn't make one. With a regular blade, I
made almost as much sawdust as product. A band saw would be more efficient.

A light swipe with sandpaper took care of the whiskers, and I got a lot of
scale board feet of lumber.

BTW, you and your students will probably discover that you need to make a
jig to get anywhere near uniform "stud" spacing.

Old Guy



"k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
> need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
> x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
> cutting a finger on the table saw.
>

B A R R Y wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get the right dimensions so that
>> you can plane both sides smooth with enough allowance to get your
>> finish dimension--the amount of allowance you need is going to depend
>> on your particular tools and skill level.
>
>
> Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?
>
> I do, as I've tried it. <G>
>
> If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of
> faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
> Performax 22/44.


"Elsewhere" got chopped off the end of the last sentence by my brain! <G>