Thank you Tim and Swingman for the info.
I'd already worked my way through The Handplane Book - Garrett Hack and
Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys.
Everything seems good except how to use the adjustment - that's got
me stymied.
I'll keep working on it. Sooner or later I've got to hit the right sequence.
Thank you (and still soliciting info).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe >" <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com <invalid>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 5:21 PM
Subject: Stanley 129 plane setup question
> First, yes, I've Googled it - for days.
>
> 1. I've never used a plane.
> 2. I've read a few books on planes and I know that they are sharp.
> 3. I have the combination of of my g-g-grandfather's plane and a small
> job that would seem best handled with a plane.
>
> I have a Stanley 129 that is not in new condition; but then it's
> pushing a hundred years old and was in daily use in its time.
> While the critical components look wonderful, the plane would not
> fetch the prices I've seen listed for the model (that's aside from
> sentimental value).
>
> I cannot achieve shavings - only sawdust. I think I must not setting it
> up correctly. There's an adjustment / positioning lever behind the
> blade that I don't know exactly what to do with. There's a picture
> showing
> it at:
> http://www.handplane.com/wp-content/themes/Handplane-Central/popup.htm?http://www.handplane.com/Images/StatSheets/Stanl
> ey/129/StanleyNo.129Plane4-Big.jpg .
>
> When moved, it changes the blade angle. However, when the frog is
> tightened, it moves, so I'm thinking you start with it one position, then
> move it to the other limit to lock.
>
> Can anyone tell me how to properly set the adjustable part or anything
> else about setting up this plane?
>
The link is fine it just needs pasting back together.
A full lesson in using an old plane is just not something that you will get
from usenet in plain text.
If you are trying to make shavings there are two critical things to get
right:
A sharp blade - without which you will acheive nothing
The depth of cut - look down the length of the sole of the plane and adjust
to see the blade as a thin black line protruding from the sole.
More than that here and now would be pointless and confusing, except perhaps
to say press down on the front as you make your stroke. Good luck. A strong
arm and a sharp blade and you will not be going far wrong.
Tim W
>
>
------------->
>> Can anyone tell me how to properly set the adjustable part or anything
>> else about setting up this plane?
>
>See if this helps:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv1zo9CAxt4&feature=related
>
>There are other related videos, so look for them on youtube
Garrett Hack's _The Handplane Book_ is also excellent.
http://goo.gl/fKjbE
_Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings_ by Aldren A. Watson
Olde time tool talk. http://goo.gl/KjIFZ
Buy new, used, or borrow a copy from the local library, Joe!
--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
On 06 Jun 2011 02:30:35 GMT, Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com <invalid>> wrote:
>Thank you Tim and Swingman for the info.
>I'd already worked my way through The Handplane Book - Garrett Hack and
>Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys.
<grumble, grumble> Then why dincha -say- so?
>Everything seems good except how to use the adjustment - that's got
>me stymied.
>I'll keep working on it. Sooner or later I've got to hit the right sequence.
>Thank you (and still soliciting info).
Make sure you aren't inverting the blade. Some go bevel up, some down.
And make sure you fully understand the term Scary Sharp(tm). Sharp
enough to shave with is downright -dull- compared to Scary.
Powder usually indicates dull. Wispy, 1-sided shavings indicate Scary.
--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com <invalid>> writes:
>Thank you Tim and Swingman for the info.
>I'd already worked my way through The Handplane Book - Garrett Hack and
>Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys.
>Everything seems good except how to use the adjustment - that's got
>me stymied.
>I'll keep working on it. Sooner or later I've got to hit the right sequence.
>Thank you (and still soliciting info).
The adjustment lever on a liberty bell transitional like yours is raised
with a finger to extend or retract the blade. As pointed out earlier, it
doesn't change the angle of the blade, but rather just the depth of cut.
Note that with transitionals, the sole is often no longer flat.
The #129 Liberty Bell Fore plane has an odd blade extention and retraction
mechanism. There is a small tab which extends through the blade from the
cap iron (there should be a hex nut on the cap iron side). The tab fits
into the corresponding slot in the adjustment mechanism at the back of the
frog. The level to the right of the handle (looking from the rear) moves
the slot, which engages the tab and alters the depth of the blade.
Look to make sure the tab is there and is engaged properly with the
mating slot in the depth adjustment mechanism. When adjusted properly,
light finger pressure on the lever will raise or lower the blade.
Make it sharp! If you're producing dust, it is likely that your
back isn't flat or the cutting edge is rounded.
Blade should be mounted bevel down.
scott