2 weeks ago the aquastat on my 4 year old water heater let go in my
basement. This caused scalding hot water to continuously pour out of the
relief valve. What a mess... The Hot water did minimal damage because most
of the stuff was off the floor. The humidity and heat from the hot water
had the effect of a sauna in my large 1200 sq ft basement. It was hot !!
The sad part to this was the furnace and water heater were supposedly
service 2 days earlier. That is another story..... The basement is dry and
all of the humidity had been removed with in 3 days of the incident.
Although my tablesaw was far from the water it could not escape the
moisture. The top had been perfectly rust free and had two coats of a fine
English wax. Rust has set in and I am freaking out because I do not know the
best cure. Some questions I have are:
What is the best approach for stopping the rust?
What should I use to remove the rust?
Is there a better alternative to Wax??
This has been a complete show stopper on my basement workshop which has been
nearly framed and insulated. I am hoping on installing a tub for the
Hotwater heater which has a shut off valve in case this happens again. Has
anyone done this??
Thanks
Rich
I have been told that spray on teflon is a better choice for spraying
on the rustable areas of the table saw or router table...
This person works at a "House of Tools" store in Victoria Canada and
claimed that with a solid spraying of the clean blade and clean table,
that they could get through 70-80 sheets of plywood before gumming up
enough to start to bind. Seems like a lot of wood through a table
saw, but once recleaned, they would finish the rest of the total of
150 sheets.
They did not carry it in that store, but he did say that it had to dry
totally before use. never had any rust problems either!
His words not mine, but the idea seems sound...
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 01:53:22 -0400, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>RKON wrote:
>
>> Thanks to all. as well as WD40 and steel wool
>
>Remember, it's 0000 steel wool. The ultra-fine stuff, which you will find
>with wood finishing supplies. Buy a lot of it while you're at it.
>Thousands of uses around the shop.
Wax sucks for preventing rust. Use a solvent to clean it off. Spray
the machined surfaces with a light coat of WD40. Use a rag to wipe
before using. I've been doing this in an unheated barn for 20+ years
and my tools are like new as far as rust is concerned. Every spring &
fall any metal in the shop sweats with condensation many times. The
WD40 keeps the condensation from reaching the bare metal.
"RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:N009b.15729
> What is the best approach for stopping the rust?
>
> What should I use to remove the rust?
>
> Is there a better alternative to Wax??
>
Use OOOO steel wool and WD40 to remove the rust. Wipe that clean and the
apply 2 coats of TopCote to the surface.
i used an automotive buffer, with Rubbing compund, then polishing compund.
the finished ith Carnouba wax.
hda
"RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2 weeks ago the aquastat on my 4 year old water heater let go in my
> basement. This caused scalding hot water to continuously pour out of the
> relief valve. What a mess... The Hot water did minimal damage because most
> of the stuff was off the floor. The humidity and heat from the hot water
> had the effect of a sauna in my large 1200 sq ft basement. It was hot !!
> The sad part to this was the furnace and water heater were supposedly
> service 2 days earlier. That is another story..... The basement is dry
and
> all of the humidity had been removed with in 3 days of the incident.
>
>
> Although my tablesaw was far from the water it could not escape the
> moisture. The top had been perfectly rust free and had two coats of a fine
> English wax. Rust has set in and I am freaking out because I do not know
the
> best cure. Some questions I have are:
>
> What is the best approach for stopping the rust?
>
> What should I use to remove the rust?
>
> Is there a better alternative to Wax??
>
> This has been a complete show stopper on my basement workshop which has
been
> nearly framed and insulated. I am hoping on installing a tub for the
> Hotwater heater which has a shut off valve in case this happens again. Has
> anyone done this??
>
>
> Thanks
> Rich
>
>
"RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [.. TS rust event deleted .. ]
You know, I have a garage shop here in Maryland (not real dry, not
real moist) and I used paste wax, didn't like it, tried TopCote,
expensive, etc. Than I saw an old posting here that said something
along the lines of "Throw an old wool blanket on that saw" and damn if
it doesn't work.
For 2 years I've done nothing about rust but keep and old (heavy) wool
blanket thrown on top of the saw. Still spotless. I got the blanket at
a thrift shop -- it looks like an old army blanket (grey with a black
stripe).
Chris
Robert, may I ask what you do for hand tools?
- Al
"2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I live in hot and humid FL, this is normal for our location. I live
between
> 2 rivers (few minutes away), and 10 minutes from the ocean. So many
people
> use paste wax. That absolutely does NOT work here. Three coats of wax
and
> two weeks will result in rust. Been there, done that.
> .... < snip >.....
> I do the same on my bandsaw and jointer. Anything steel will rust in my
> shop in no time.
>
> Robert
>
For hand tools I do pretty much the same thing. I spray WD-40 on a rag and
wipe the tools before putting them away. For things like my Freud dado
blade set, which has a nice storage case with a foam liner, I sprayed the
foam with oil. I don't need to spray the blades as the oil will naturally
migrate to surrounding surfaces. I keep the case closed, which limits the
exposure.
I found last night that a 35 mm forstner bit had been setting on the back
corner of my workbench in a block of wood with the cutting end sticking up.
Salty air did it's trick. The bit is now badly rusted and will need to be
replaced.
This climate is brutal. If I forget to wipe a scraper, every fingerprint
will start a rust spot.
I keep a roll of paper towels to wipe off oil before using any WW tools.
Only takes a minute, keeps them looking new. If I had an air conditioned
shop, this wouldn't be an issue. Since my relatives weren't kind enough to
be rich and leave me a chunk of change, it'll be a while before I get my
dream shop! Until then, WD-40 will continue to have a prominent spot on my
shelf.
Robert
"jcofmars" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robert, may I ask what you do for hand tools?
>
> - Al
>
> "2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I live in hot and humid FL, this is normal for our location. I live
> between
> > 2 rivers (few minutes away), and 10 minutes from the ocean. So many
> people
> > use paste wax. That absolutely does NOT work here. Three coats of wax
> and
> > two weeks will result in rust. Been there, done that.
> > .... < snip >.....
> > I do the same on my bandsaw and jointer. Anything steel will rust in my
> > shop in no time.
> >
> > Robert
> >
>
>
>
Wayne J wrote:
> I accidently found MoovIt penetrating oil at Princess Auto (Western
> Canada). They are no different then the US Tractor Supply group, so it
> should be available there.
The Canadian version of a Tractor Supply store is called Princess Auto?
<giggle>
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17742 Approximate word count: 532260
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Thanks to all. as well as WD40 and steel wool
"RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2 weeks ago the aquastat on my 4 year old water heater let go in my
> basement. This caused scalding hot water to continuously pour out of the
> relief valve. What a mess... The Hot water did minimal damage because most
> of the stuff was off the floor. The humidity and heat from the hot water
> had the effect of a sauna in my large 1200 sq ft basement. It was hot !!
> The sad part to this was the furnace and water heater were supposedly
> service 2 days earlier. That is another story..... The basement is dry
and
> all of the humidity had been removed with in 3 days of the incident.
>
>
> Although my tablesaw was far from the water it could not escape the
> moisture. The top had been perfectly rust free and had two coats of a fine
> English wax. Rust has set in and I am freaking out because I do not know
the
> best cure. Some questions I have are:
>
> What is the best approach for stopping the rust?
>
> What should I use to remove the rust?
>
> Is there a better alternative to Wax??
>
> This has been a complete show stopper on my basement workshop which has
been
> nearly framed and insulated. I am hoping on installing a tub for the
> Hotwater heater which has a shut off valve in case this happens again. Has
> anyone done this??
>
>
> Thanks
> Rich
>
>
When I used to work at Delta, we always did the WD40 and 0000 steel wool
trick.
Nowadays, I use MoovIt made by LLoyds and super fine wet/dry on a random
sander. (I get almost no swirl marks).
I accidently found MoovIt penetrating oil at Princess Auto (Western Canada).
They are no different then the US Tractor Supply group, so it should be
available there.
happy cutting !
"RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2 weeks ago the aquastat on my 4 year old water heater let go in my
> basement. This caused scalding hot water to continuously pour out of the
> relief valve. What a mess... The Hot water did minimal damage because most
> of the stuff was off the floor. The humidity and heat from the hot water
> had the effect of a sauna in my large 1200 sq ft basement. It was hot !!
> The sad part to this was the furnace and water heater were supposedly
> service 2 days earlier. That is another story..... The basement is dry
and
> all of the humidity had been removed with in 3 days of the incident.
>
>
> Although my tablesaw was far from the water it could not escape the
> moisture. The top had been perfectly rust free and had two coats of a fine
> English wax. Rust has set in and I am freaking out because I do not know
the
> best cure. Some questions I have are:
>
> What is the best approach for stopping the rust?
>
> What should I use to remove the rust?
>
> Is there a better alternative to Wax??
>
> This has been a complete show stopper on my basement workshop which has
been
> nearly framed and insulated. I am hoping on installing a tub for the
> Hotwater heater which has a shut off valve in case this happens again. Has
> anyone done this??
>
>
> Thanks
> Rich
>
>
I guess the best advice I can give on this topic is know nothing is perfect.
A technique may work great for some climates, but suck for others. Don't
blindly follow any suggestions found on the rec as I did. I used 3 coats of
paste wax before storing my TS for the hot part of the Summer. By the time
I had checked on it, rust had started. I should have watched it more
closely until I had confidence in the new (to me) method. :-(
"Chris Schanck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "RKON" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > [.. TS rust event deleted .. ]
>
> You know, I have a garage shop here in Maryland (not real dry, not
> real moist) and I used paste wax, didn't like it, tried TopCote,
> expensive, etc. Than I saw an old posting here that said something
> along the lines of "Throw an old wool blanket on that saw" and damn if
> it doesn't work.
>
> For 2 years I've done nothing about rust but keep and old (heavy) wool
> blanket thrown on top of the saw. Still spotless. I got the blanket at
> a thrift shop -- it looks like an old army blanket (grey with a black
> stripe).
>
> Chris
>