I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. Not a rub through
finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. I've
always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
Seems crazy to try and be leveling defects in paint, right? Right?!!!
JP
****************
Frustrated.
On Feb 9, 3:10=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> JayPique wrote:
> > I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. =A0Not a rub through
> > finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. =A0I've
> > always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
> > surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
>
> Right. =A0You need to start with a smooth, flat, flawless surface because=
the
> paint will shrink and conform to whatever surface it calls home. =A0All y=
ou
> gotta do is avoid brush marks in the top coats.
>
> I like Zinsser primer too but 1-2-3. =A0It sands fairly well, better if w=
et
> sander. =A0If you can find a sanding surfacer, use it.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Yeah maybe it was 123 that everyone was touting. I used one or the
other as a base on my built-ins, sanded it out just a bit and had a
pro company spray them (yesterday literally) and they are beautiful!!!
On Feb 10, 1:50=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
> > JayPique wrote:
> >> I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. =A0Not a rub through
> >> finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. =A0I've
> >> always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
> >> surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
>
> > Right. =A0You need to start with a smooth, flat, flawless surface
> > because the paint will shrink and conform to whatever surface it
> > calls home. =A0All you gotta do is avoid brush marks in the top coats.
>
> Surface prep is everything. =A0The better that is, the easier it is to ge=
t the
> desired finish. =A0So - a flawless finish is a good step in achieving a g=
reat
> finish. =A0That said - primer is your friend. =A0It fills and levels
> imperfections in less than flawless surfaces. =A0Achieve a flawless prime=
r
> coat and then all you have to do is apply a flawless finish coat.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
Thanks, fellas.
JP
On Feb 9, 2:11=A0pm, JayPique <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. =A0Not a rub through
> finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. =A0I've
> always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
> surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
> Seems crazy to try and be leveling defects in paint, right? =A0Right?!!!
> JP
> ****************
> Frustrated.
Everyone will say Zinser BIN primer http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp=
?pid=3D216
Spray or brush. Light sanding 1 hour later. Paint.
dadiOH wrote:
> JayPique wrote:
>> I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. Not a rub through
>> finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. I've
>> always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
>> surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
>
> Right. You need to start with a smooth, flat, flawless surface
> because the paint will shrink and conform to whatever surface it
> calls home. All you gotta do is avoid brush marks in the top coats.
Surface prep is everything. The better that is, the easier it is to get the
desired finish. So - a flawless finish is a good step in achieving a great
finish. That said - primer is your friend. It fills and levels
imperfections in less than flawless surfaces. Achieve a flawless primer
coat and then all you have to do is apply a flawless finish coat.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I use BIN on everything I can. I love the stuff. Since it is colored
shellac, you can build coats, sand easily, everything sticks to it,
and it covers stains well. Plus, it shoots unthinned right out of the
can.
When I paint wood cabs, that's the stuff for me. I put on two medium
coats, then very lightly sand where needed. Wouldn't think of a
cabinet paint job without it.
Robert
On 2/9/2012 4:11 PM, JayPique wrote:
> I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. Not a rub through
> finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. I've
> always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
> surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
> Seems crazy to try and be leveling defects in paint, right? Right?!!!
> JP
> ****************
> Frustrated.
Yup! The smoothness of the primer is what you see after painting.
JayPique wrote:
> I'm curious about how folks paint their woodwork. Not a rub through
> finish, but a nice smooth coat of pigmented lacquer or paint. I've
> always thought that you'd prime and scuff until you had a flawless
> surface, and then lay down one, maybe two real nice coats of paint.
Right. You need to start with a smooth, flat, flawless surface because the
paint will shrink and conform to whatever surface it calls home. All you
gotta do is avoid brush marks in the top coats.
I like Zinsser primer too but 1-2-3. It sands fairly well, better if wet
sander. If you can find a sanding surfacer, use it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico