Question for y'all. I'm building a small, 8' x 12' shed so that I can
get more room in my workshop. The shed will house camping gear, bikes,
paint, etc. The detached workshop is maybe 50-60 years old and has
redwood shiplap siding painted same color as house, which had redwood
lap siding that I replaced with fibercement lap siding about two years
ago when we added on to the house. I like the look and durability of
the fibercement but it is time consuming to install and is dusty to
cut. So instead of going with the Hardieplank for the new shed to
match the house I'm thinking of using T1-11 sheet siding for the shed
to save on labor time. My question is- would there be any issues with
installing the sheets in a horizontal direction so that it comes close
to the look of the shiplap on the original shed? I would use z-
flashing on horizontal seams and caulk vertical seams that would break
at studs which are 24" oc. I've only ever seen the t1-11 installed
with the grooves running vertically. Thanks for your input.
On Nov 3, 9:39=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Question for y'all. I'm building a small, 8' x 12' shed so that I can
> > get more room in my workshop. The shed will house camping gear, bikes,
> > paint, etc. The detached workshop is maybe 50-60 years old and has
> > redwood shiplap siding painted same color as house, which had redwood
> > lap siding that I replaced with fibercement lap siding about two years
> > ago when we added on to the house. I like the look and durability of
> > the fibercement but it is time consuming to install and is dusty to
> > cut. So instead of going with the Hardieplank for the new shed to
> > match the house I'm thinking of using T1-11 sheet siding for the shed
> > to save on labor time. My question is- would there be any issues with
> > installing the sheets in a horizontal direction so that it comes close
> > to the look of the shiplap on the original shed? I would use z-
> > flashing on horizontal seams and caulk vertical seams that would break
> > at studs which are 24" oc. I've only ever seen the t1-11 installed
> > with the grooves running vertically. Thanks for your input.
>
> First off I live in an areas that is humid and I am slowly but surely
> replacing all the siding on my home that is near ground level. =A0Morning=
dew
> will rot wood quickly. =A0How much trouble is it to reside 2 times with a=
wood
> product than 1 time with fiber cement?
>
> If you install T1-11 horizonally the groves that are normally draining in=
a
> vertical position will naturally retain moisture and will eventually rot.
>
> If dust is a concern, put a yourself between the cutting operation and a =
fan
> set on hi speed. =A0Or, get a set of nippers to fit your drill that will =
solve
> the dust problem when cutting.
The horizontal grooves retaining moisture is obviously not something
that I had thought about, probably the reason I've never seen t1-11
installed this way- duh. Looks like I will be placing an order for
some Hardieplank. I have to say I am very happy with the way it looks
on the house. Leon- not familiar with the nippers drill attachment can
you explain? The last time I used a diamond tipped masonry blade in my
circular saw. I know they make special shears for cutting the
fibercement product but the size of my project won't justify the cost
of such a tool. Thanks again.
The shed having a different siding may not look as awkward as you
think. A little contrast might even look good. Dress some edges/
corners, somehow, if need be.
Why not build your shed 9.5' high.. a bit more attic storage. I used
T1-11 on my shop remodel. I installed a lower section 15" high with a
1" X 2" drip edge above, then a full sheet above that, then another
drip edge above that, where needed. If ever the bottom rots, all I
have to replace is a 15" piece. The lower edge of the bottom section
is beveled so water doesn't wick upward.... and I primed & painted the
back side of this section, also. All top & bottom edges were beveled
30 degrees to accommodate the drip edge angle and all the cut edges
were primed prior to installation. The drip edge above the window
awning extends out more than other areas. Everything is screwed in
place, also. I don't have any close-ups posted, but here is a few
pics (bottom of this page):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/page3/
Sonny
"dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:298c2c4b-5a57-4721-a72a-a57d7c0e3431@k13g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
On Nov 3, 9:39 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
Snip
.
The horizontal grooves retaining moisture is obviously not something
that I had thought about, probably the reason I've never seen t1-11
installed this way- duh. Looks like I will be placing an order for
some Hardieplank. I have to say I am very happy with the way it looks
on the house. Leon- not familiar with the nippers drill attachment can
you explain? The last time I used a diamond tipped masonry blade in my
circular saw. I know they make special shears for cutting the
fibercement product but the size of my project won't justify the cost
of such a tool. Thanks again.
Google search , fiber cement shears
or
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=fiber+cement+shears&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6051874115009657919&ei=k6LwSo7WJIasMO2l0JoH&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBcQ8wIwAA#ps-sellers
or for a more dedicated solution,
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200304323_200304323
"dale martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Question for y'all. I'm building a small, 8' x 12' shed so that I can
> get more room in my workshop. The shed will house camping gear, bikes,
> paint, etc. The detached workshop is maybe 50-60 years old and has
> redwood shiplap siding painted same color as house, which had redwood
> lap siding that I replaced with fibercement lap siding about two years
> ago when we added on to the house. I like the look and durability of
> the fibercement but it is time consuming to install and is dusty to
> cut. So instead of going with the Hardieplank for the new shed to
> match the house I'm thinking of using T1-11 sheet siding for the shed
> to save on labor time. My question is- would there be any issues with
> installing the sheets in a horizontal direction so that it comes close
> to the look of the shiplap on the original shed? I would use z-
> flashing on horizontal seams and caulk vertical seams that would break
> at studs which are 24" oc. I've only ever seen the t1-11 installed
> with the grooves running vertically. Thanks for your input.
First off I live in an areas that is humid and I am slowly but surely
replacing all the siding on my home that is near ground level. Morning dew
will rot wood quickly. How much trouble is it to reside 2 times with a wood
product than 1 time with fiber cement?
If you install T1-11 horizonally the groves that are normally draining in a
vertical position will naturally retain moisture and will eventually rot.
If dust is a concern, put a yourself between the cutting operation and a fan
set on hi speed. Or, get a set of nippers to fit your drill that will solve
the dust problem when cutting.
dale martin wrote:
> Question for y'all. I'm building a small, 8' x 12' shed so that I can
> get more room in my workshop. The shed will house camping gear, bikes,
> paint, etc. The detached workshop is maybe 50-60 years old and has
> redwood shiplap siding painted same color as house, which had redwood
> lap siding that I replaced with fibercement lap siding about two years
> ago when we added on to the house. I like the look and durability of
> the fibercement but it is time consuming to install and is dusty to
> cut. So instead of going with the Hardieplank for the new shed to
> match the house I'm thinking of using T1-11 sheet siding for the shed
> to save on labor time. My question is- would there be any issues with
> installing the sheets in a horizontal direction so that it comes close
> to the look of the shiplap on the original shed? I would use z-
> flashing on horizontal seams and caulk vertical seams that would break
> at studs which are 24" oc. I've only ever seen the t1-11 installed
> with the grooves running vertically. Thanks for your input.
It's designed to go vertically. Putting it horizontally the grooves are
going to collect rain. With plywood this is not a good thing.
dale martin wrote:
> Leon- not familiar with the nippers drill attachment can
> you explain? The last time I used a diamond tipped masonry blade in my
> circular saw. I know they make special shears for cutting the
> fibercement product but the size of my project won't justify the cost
> of such a tool. Thanks again.
Check the rental price.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
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