Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
pores for subsequent coats.
On 10/16/2015 11:17 AM, graham wrote:
> I prefer a somewhat water resistant finish and shellac doesn't provide
> that. I do use a mineral oil + beeswax finish on some salad bowls but
> people like a more resistant finish, especially on the outside where
> they like it a bit shiny as well.
A lot of people think that, but I've found it not to be particularly
accurate. I remember reading about a canoe builder that used shellac as
the finish on his canoes. It wasn't dewaxed shellac, so darkened the
wood a bit more but it was plenty waterproof.
As an experiment years ago I turned a bowl and finished it with shellac.
I ate hot soup out of it with no particular damage to the finish. I
can't remember if I used blonde (dewaxed) or amber shellac. For a salad
bowl shellac is a perfectly good finish. Certainly much more so than an
oil finish (excluding oil based varnishes obviously).
...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers
On 16/10/2015 8:43 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 10/16/2015 1:46 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
>>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>>
>>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>>
>>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>>> pores for subsequent coats.
>>
>> You do realize that shellac is non-toxic. They use it on pills so they
>> go down your throat easier.
>>
>> For food bowls, what about mineral oil or shellac?
>
>
> Some foods have alcohol introduced, might melt shellac.
>
I don't think shellac would last long in a salad bowl.
Graham
>>
>> Walnut Oil is also a good food-safe product.
>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20056&cat=1,190,42942
>> John T.
>A friend, a professional woodworker and highly skilled turner, tried
>that and had to refinish the bowl as it went rancid. I know it's not
>supposed to happen, but it did.
>Graham
Yep - the "drying time" is ~ weeks -
and it should properly have air & sunlight ..
.. food-items sometimes go into a dark drawer or cupboard ..
John T.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On 10/16/2015 1:46 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>
>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>
>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>> pores for subsequent coats.
>
> You do realize that shellac is non-toxic. They use it on pills so they
> go down your throat easier.
>
> For food bowls, what about mineral oil or shellac?
Some foods have alcohol introduced, might melt shellac.
On 10/16/2015 01:35 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil
> is not for food contact items ..
> < because it contains mineral spirits ? >
> John T.
Conventional wisdom is that any modern finish is food save after it's
fully cured, as the nasty stuff has evaporated. That can be up to 30
days or so.
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers
On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>
> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>
> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
> pores for subsequent coats.
You do realize that shellac is non-toxic. They use it on pills so they
go down your throat easier.
For food bowls, what about mineral oil or shellac?
--
Jeff
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/16/2015 01:35 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil
> > is not for food contact items ..
> > < because it contains mineral spirits ? >
> > John T.
>
> Conventional wisdom is that any modern finish is food save after it's
> fully cured, as the nasty stuff has evaporated. That can be up to 30
> days or so.
May be "conventional wisdom" but that doesn't make it so. The problem
with many oil-based finishes is that the substance that makes the oil
cure contains toxic metals. That substance does not evaporate.
In any case, Lee Valley states specifically _not_ to use their
"Polymerized Tung Oil" on food-contact items and recommends their "Pure
Tung Oil" instead.
On 16/10/2015 5:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>
>>>> I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil
>>>> is not for food contact items ..
>>>> < because it contains mineral spirits ? >
>>>> John T.
>
>>>
>>> Conventional wisdom is that any modern finish is food save after it's
>>> fully cured, as the nasty stuff has evaporated. That can be up to 30
>>> days or so.
>
>>
>> May be "conventional wisdom" but that doesn't make it so. The problem
>> with many oil-based finishes is that the substance that makes the oil
>> cure contains toxic metals. That substance does not evaporate.
>> In any case, Lee Valley states specifically _not_ to use their
>> "Polymerized Tung Oil" on food-contact items and recommends their "Pure
>> Tung Oil" instead.
>
>
> Walnut Oil is also a good food-safe product.
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20056&cat=1,190,42942
> John T.
>
>
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
>
A friend, a professional woodworker and highly skilled turner, tried
that and had to refinish the bowl as it went rancid. I know it's not
supposed to happen, but it did.
Graham
On 16/10/2015 12:46 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>
>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>
>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>> pores for subsequent coats.
>
> You do realize that shellac is non-toxic. They use it on pills so they
> go down your throat easier.
>
> For food bowls, what about mineral oil or shellac?
>
I prefer a somewhat water resistant finish and shellac doesn't provide
that. I do use a mineral oil + beeswax finish on some salad bowls but
people like a more resistant finish, especially on the outside where
they like it a bit shiny as well.
Graham
On 16/10/2015 2:47 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> graham wrote:
>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>
>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>
>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>> pores for subsequent coats.
>>
> I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded paper
> towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I use 4-0
> steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and buff.
> Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure to bring
> out the figure. Never any problems.
>
> If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
>
I have used their pure tung oil, which takes ages to cure. If you don't
cure it completely, I understand that you get the "trots" if you ingest
the uncured oil. I think that the Polymerised Tung Oil contains metallic
driers, something you don't want anywhere near your food.
Graham
On 16/10/2015 1:58 PM, Kevin Miller wrote:
> On 10/16/2015 11:17 AM, graham wrote:
>
>> I prefer a somewhat water resistant finish and shellac doesn't provide
>> that. I do use a mineral oil + beeswax finish on some salad bowls but
>> people like a more resistant finish, especially on the outside where
>> they like it a bit shiny as well.
>
> A lot of people think that, but I've found it not to be particularly
> accurate. I remember reading about a canoe builder that used shellac as
> the finish on his canoes. It wasn't dewaxed shellac, so darkened the
> wood a bit more but it was plenty waterproof.
>
> As an experiment years ago I turned a bowl and finished it with shellac.
> I ate hot soup out of it with no particular damage to the finish. I
> can't remember if I used blonde (dewaxed) or amber shellac. For a salad
> bowl shellac is a perfectly good finish. Certainly much more so than an
> oil finish (excluding oil based varnishes obviously).
>
> ...Kevin
Thanks. that might be worth trying on the outside of the bowls.
Graham
On 10/18/2015 2:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
> On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 11:14:27 -0600, graham <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 16/10/2015 2:47 PM, G. Ross wrote:
>>> graham wrote:
>>>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>>>
>>>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>>>
>>>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>>>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>>>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>>>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>>>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>>>> pores for subsequent coats.
>>>>
>>> I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded paper
>>> towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I use 4-0
>>> steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and buff.
>>> Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure to bring
>>> out the figure. Never any problems.
>>>
>>> If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
>>>
>> I have used their pure tung oil, which takes ages to cure. If you don't
>> cure it completely, I understand that you get the "trots" if you ingest
>> the uncured oil. I think that the Polymerised Tung Oil contains metallic
>> driers, something you don't want anywhere near your food.
>> Graham
> Check antique catalogues see what they used for salad bowls.
> Garlic oil from a clove adds a nice flavor.
>
Generally nothing vegetable related as they go rancid. Garlic clove
would fall under that category.
--
Jeff
On 16/10/2015 2:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>
>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>
>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>> pores for subsequent coats.
>
> I've used it with good results, but not on a bowl so I have no idea how
> it will work for waterproofing. Seems like it would take repeated
> applications. I've used mineral oil on cutting boards and it also takes
> a few applications before I trust it with water.
So far the outside of the bowls have had 6 or 7 applications and there
is no end in sight.
Graham
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 11:14:27 -0600, graham <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 16/10/2015 2:47 PM, G. Ross wrote:
>> graham wrote:
>>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>>
>>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>>
>>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>>> pores for subsequent coats.
>>>
>> I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded paper
>> towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I use 4-0
>> steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and buff.
>> Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure to bring
>> out the figure. Never any problems.
>>
>> If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
>>
>I have used their pure tung oil, which takes ages to cure. If you don't
>cure it completely, I understand that you get the "trots" if you ingest
>the uncured oil. I think that the Polymerised Tung Oil contains metallic
>driers, something you don't want anywhere near your food.
>Graham
Check antique catalogues see what they used for salad bowls.
Garlic oil from a clove adds a nice flavor.
>>
>> > I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil
>> > is not for food contact items ..
>> > < because it contains mineral spirits ? >
>> > John T.
>>
>> Conventional wisdom is that any modern finish is food save after it's
>> fully cured, as the nasty stuff has evaporated. That can be up to 30
>> days or so.
>
>May be "conventional wisdom" but that doesn't make it so. The problem
>with many oil-based finishes is that the substance that makes the oil
>cure contains toxic metals. That substance does not evaporate.
>In any case, Lee Valley states specifically _not_ to use their
>"Polymerized Tung Oil" on food-contact items and recommends their "Pure
>Tung Oil" instead.
Walnut Oil is also a good food-safe product.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20056&cat=1,190,42942
John T.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
graham wrote:
> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>
> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>
> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
> pores for subsequent coats.
>
I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded
paper towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I
use 4-0 steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and
buff. Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure
to bring out the figure. Never any problems.
If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
--
GW Ross
Don't hate yourself in the morning -
sleep till noon.
>graham wrote:
>> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>>
>> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>>
>> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
>> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
>> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
>> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
>> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
>> pores for subsequent coats.
>>
>I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded
>paper towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I
>use 4-0 steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and
>buff. Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure
>to bring out the figure. Never any problems.
>
>If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil
is not for food contact items ..
< because it contains mineral spirits ? >
John T.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On 10/16/2015 2:41 PM, graham wrote:
> Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
>
> http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/
>
> They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
> after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
> long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
> they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
> minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
> pores for subsequent coats.
I've used it with good results, but not on a bowl so I have no idea how
it will work for waterproofing. Seems like it would take repeated
applications. I've used mineral oil on cutting boards and it also takes
a few applications before I trust it with water.