On 8 Nov 2004 18:21:19 -0800, [email protected] (brian roth)
wrote:
>Can you rub out shellac using Murpheys oil soap as a lubricant?
Henry IV
Glendower: "I can call spirits from the vasty deep."
Hotspur: "Why so can I, or so can any man;
but will they come when you do call them?"
IMHE, choosing the right lubricant depends on what you use as an
abrasive. I've never used "Murpheys oil soap", but it sounds a bit on
the heavier side. I've found that the lighter the better. I usually
use water with either rottenstone or charcoal, might use liquid
paraffin if I'm doing something heavier with pumice.
And of course, experiment on some scrap, or you're experimenting on
your project.
--
Smert' spamionam
Reinforce this right answer. The degree of aggressiveness desired
determines the lubricant for any given abrasive. If you're using 1000
wet/dry, you'll be forever with wax - extremely heavy oil - less with
decreasing viscosity. As particle size decreases, so should the viscosity
to remain effective.
Personally, I'm a mineral spirits guy. I avoid water because of the
horrible things that can happen if I get a breakthrough.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> IMHE, choosing the right lubricant depends on what you use as an
> abrasive. I've never used "Murpheys oil soap", but it sounds a bit on
> the heavier side. I've found that the lighter the better. I usually
> use water with either rottenstone or charcoal, might use liquid
> paraffin if I'm doing something heavier with pumice.
>
> And of course, experiment on some scrap, or you're experimenting on
> your project.
>
> --
> Smert' spamionam
I dampen the rubber and stick the powder to it.
For wet/dry paper, I keep dipping it into an old margarine tub of the stuff.
Main thing is to recognize that it is a lube, and needs to be there. Only a
mess says too much.
"TWS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 08:18:29 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >Reinforce this right answer. The degree of aggressiveness desired
> >determines the lubricant for any given abrasive. If you're using 1000
> >wet/dry, you'll be forever with wax - extremely heavy oil - less with
> >decreasing viscosity. As particle size decreases, so should the
viscosity
> >to remain effective.
> >
> >Personally, I'm a mineral spirits guy. I avoid water because of the
> >horrible things that can happen if I get a breakthrough.
> >
> >
> George,
> I've seen tons of references talking about using some type of
> lubricant for rub out and I've used it myself on a couple of projects
> with great, if somewhat messy, success. However I've never seen a
> detailed description of how MUCH lubricant to use. It seemed I always
> had a big cleanup mess afterward.
>
> As I said, I've used water (with a bit of mild soap) and sprayed it on
> with a plastic spray bottle. I've done two techniques, sprayed the
> work surface so there was a fine mist on it, and sprayed the sanding
> pad so it was wet to the touch. I think I prefer spraying the work
> surface but, for us novices, what would you recommend as a technique
> and quantity of lubricant?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> TWS
> http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm
Not in my lifetime.
If you're going to use one of those slow speed buffers, you'll want a lube
that holds the grit to the buff and controls the throw. Same principle as
using tripoli or rouge bound with wax on a wheel.
"TWS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 10:59:21 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >I dampen the rubber and stick the powder to it.
> >
> >For wet/dry paper, I keep dipping it into an old margarine tub of the
stuff.
> >
> >Main thing is to recognize that it is a lube, and needs to be there.
Only a
> >mess says too much.
> >
> George, thanks. What about using a ROS? A shallow pan or plate with
> mineral spirits and dip the ROS every once in a while?
>
>
> TWS
> http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 10:59:21 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>I dampen the rubber and stick the powder to it.
>
>For wet/dry paper, I keep dipping it into an old margarine tub of the stuff.
>
>Main thing is to recognize that it is a lube, and needs to be there. Only a
>mess says too much.
>
George, thanks. What about using a ROS? A shallow pan or plate with
mineral spirits and dip the ROS every once in a while?
TWS
http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 08:18:29 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Reinforce this right answer. The degree of aggressiveness desired
>determines the lubricant for any given abrasive. If you're using 1000
>wet/dry, you'll be forever with wax - extremely heavy oil - less with
>decreasing viscosity. As particle size decreases, so should the viscosity
>to remain effective.
>
>Personally, I'm a mineral spirits guy. I avoid water because of the
>horrible things that can happen if I get a breakthrough.
>
>
George,
I've seen tons of references talking about using some type of
lubricant for rub out and I've used it myself on a couple of projects
with great, if somewhat messy, success. However I've never seen a
detailed description of how MUCH lubricant to use. It seemed I always
had a big cleanup mess afterward.
As I said, I've used water (with a bit of mild soap) and sprayed it on
with a plastic spray bottle. I've done two techniques, sprayed the
work surface so there was a fine mist on it, and sprayed the sanding
pad so it was wet to the touch. I think I prefer spraying the work
surface but, for us novices, what would you recommend as a technique
and quantity of lubricant?
Thanks in advance.
TWS
http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm
It is.
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 19:41:13 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
> > The classic oil to use is Paraffin oil.
> >You can find that at good woodworking stores.
>
> I was under the impression that Paraffin oil was also known as undyed
> K1 kerosene here in the US.
>
> Barry
"brian roth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can you rub out shellac using Murpheys oil soap as a lubricant?
>
> Seems like I read that somewhere, but am not sure about the water base
> on shellac...
I've rubbed out shellac WITH water. Cuts faster than oil, so be careful not
to go through it too fast. Best I can tell, same finish in the end. I
don't know about Murpheys, however. The classic oil to use is Paraffin oil.
You can find that at good woodworking stores.
-m
On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 19:41:13 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> The classic oil to use is Paraffin oil.
>You can find that at good woodworking stores.
I was under the impression that Paraffin oil was also known as undyed
K1 kerosene here in the US.
Barry
Try using paste wax. Works great.
Good luck
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"brian roth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can you rub out shellac using Murpheys oil soap as a lubricant?
>
> Seems like I read that somewhere, but am not sure about the water base
> on shellac...