Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
the answer but I am not 100% sure.
How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
well, anything?
To be more specific, how do you line up the fence. I came up with the
brilliant idea of making one to use with my dad's old router. I have
used the thing as a flush trimmer but I have never done anything but
that with a router.
I made the table out of a piece of 3/4" MDF and glued a piece of
hardbaord on top and waxed the heck out of it. I made the thing to
house only the router I have because, well, I did. That may have been
a mistake but the entire contraption only set me back about $20, so
who cares?
I made a fence out of a piece of hardwood and worked hard to make it
square. And I was actually successful.
Now the time has come to use it and...I don't know how!
It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
than around a single point).
Let's say I have a 1/2" straight bit set up in the router and I want
to make a 3/8" rabbett...how do I set up the fence? I cannot believe
it is all trial-and-error. Do I find the exact middle of the hole and
draw a straight line all the way across the table and say that is 0"
and place the fence 1/8" in FRONT of the line to cut the 3/8" rabbett?
Because, in my mind, if you have a 1/2" straight bit and place it
onthe line you drew, you would get a 1/2" rabbett.
If the above is true, it would seem to me that I need to place the
fence directly on that line and draw another line on the backend of
the fence so I could use the back line to gauge the 1/8" I need to
move the fence forward.
AARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!! I am getting myself all wrapped up in my
underwear!!! I think I am overthinking this and there HAS to be an
easy way to do this!!!!!!
Any help is appreciated.
And I guess I will have to live with all the smears I will undoubtably
get. But please keep in mind that it may sound like a really dumb
question to all you that know but I simply do not understand at the
moment. Everybody started out as a beginner and a novice, so...
Thanks
On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 17:15:06 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>I made the table out of a piece of 3/4" MDF and glued a piece of
>>hardbaord on top and waxed the heck out of it.
Hardboard top won't hurt, but is overkill IMHO. Waxed MDF isn't such
a bad surface itself.
One thing I would do though is to try and arrange a perimeter frame of
2" deep softwood (minimum). MDF on its own will sag, especially under
the weight of a router. Don't leave it hanging in there for days if
it's plain MDF.
>NEVER run the work between the fence and bit, as a board would be when
>ripping on a table saw, if the bit is cutting the full thickness of
>the board. Doing so will likely injure you, possibly seriously!
This is definitely good advice. I'd also suggest it for most cases
when you're not going full depth.
If you're moulding, it's good practice to guide on the face you're
shaping. Sometimes you can't do that, or do it easily, because the
face is no longer flat and it's hard to arrange a suitable fence.
The advantages of trying to do it though are twofold. One is accuracy
- if you have a proportional wobble in the spacing against the fence,
then this has less result as a total wobble if the fence distance is
small.
The other is in guarding against errors - it's commonplace for the
workpiece to move off the fence at some point by accident. Does this
cut a high point which you can re-cut later, or does it cut an
irrepairable divot ? Guiding against the cut side of the workpiece
means that a slip gives you a lesser cut, not a deeper one.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Good for Ray.
It sounds like he is diving right in there !
Toller wrote:
> > It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
> > direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
> > straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
> > table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
> > than around a single point).
>
> The orientation only matters if you have a miter slot you want to be
> parallel to.
>
> Interesting concept though; building a router table when you don't know how
> to use a router.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Ray Kinzler wrote:
> >
> > You're right: it is an interesting concept. This may also be dumb but
> > I thought it would probably be easier and safer to use a router in a
> > router table if I am inexperienced. I don't know if it is or not but
> > I sorta feel safer this way.
>
> Not dumb at all. I use the table for 90+% of all the routing I do. I feel
> I have better control, less dust flying, more accurate setups. I watch Norm
> doing roudovers with a router. I just keep thinking how much easier and
> faster it wold be to zip the piece along the bit in a table.
>
*now* would be the time for the perennial poster to the router table vs.
shaper threads to appropriately make the comment that a table mounted
bit won't follow the shape of the workpiece if the workpiece is not
perfectly flat, while it would follow the workpiece if it is handheld
(given that it is not so out-of-flat that it curves away from the router
base)
Ray,
You didn't ask a dumb question. You asked the right question at the
right time.
I could probably give a great write-up on how to do this, but I have a
lot better suggestion. Find a friend who does woodworking and have him show
you. Make sure he goes over how to be safe, how to measure the piece and
the bit, and in general guides you a little on how to look at a project and
a board and see the relationship. He'll also give you a few good tricks
which come only with experience.
Another thing to consider is a local community college woodworking
course. The beginning courses assume you know nothing, and build from
there. Watch the woodworking shows on TV, check out a few books.
Once you are comfortable, get some scrap wood, and start cutting. When
you can get the right cut at least most of the time, you're ready for a
project.
Remember to keep your fingers intact.
Michael
"Ray Kinzler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
> the answer but I am not 100% sure.
>
> How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
> well, anything?
>
> To be more specific, how do you line up the fence. I came up with the
> brilliant idea of making one to use with my dad's old router. I have
> used the thing as a flush trimmer but I have never done anything but
> that with a router.
>
> I made the table out of a piece of 3/4" MDF and glued a piece of
> hardbaord on top and waxed the heck out of it. I made the thing to
> house only the router I have because, well, I did. That may have been
> a mistake but the entire contraption only set me back about $20, so
> who cares?
>
> I made a fence out of a piece of hardwood and worked hard to make it
> square. And I was actually successful.
>
> Now the time has come to use it and...I don't know how!
>
> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
> than around a single point).
>
> Let's say I have a 1/2" straight bit set up in the router and I want
> to make a 3/8" rabbett...how do I set up the fence? I cannot believe
> it is all trial-and-error. Do I find the exact middle of the hole and
> draw a straight line all the way across the table and say that is 0"
> and place the fence 1/8" in FRONT of the line to cut the 3/8" rabbett?
> Because, in my mind, if you have a 1/2" straight bit and place it
> onthe line you drew, you would get a 1/2" rabbett.
>
> If the above is true, it would seem to me that I need to place the
> fence directly on that line and draw another line on the backend of
> the fence so I could use the back line to gauge the 1/8" I need to
> move the fence forward.
>
> AARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!! I am getting myself all wrapped up in my
> underwear!!! I think I am overthinking this and there HAS to be an
> easy way to do this!!!!!!
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> And I guess I will have to live with all the smears I will undoubtably
> get. But please keep in mind that it may sound like a really dumb
> question to all you that know but I simply do not understand at the
> moment. Everybody started out as a beginner and a novice, so...
>
> Thanks
Ray,
You could clamp or carpet tape a piece of 1/8" hardboard or other
material (I have some leftover wainscoat panels the make nice 1/8"
spacers) to your fence. That would give you a 3/8" rabbet without
having to move the fence.
Of course its not the best solution and may bow away from your fence
near the bit.
I am still trying to find the time to build a version of Pat Warner's
fence (see www.patwarner.com ), but with 2 small ones that's not easy
to do. That unit is bolted to the table top and has a
micro-adjustable portion that you could move exact measurements such
as 1/8". I've bought all the material I need and I can tell you, its
not cheap though.
Good luck!
Chuck
"Ray Kinzler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
> the answer but I am not 100% sure.
Nope - had the same question myself...
>
> How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
> well, anything?
My rabbet bit had a bearing on it. So I could just hold the stock up to the
bit (with the fence moved out of the way) and used it like a flush-trim bit.
> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
> than around a single point).
Yep!
>
> Let's say I have a 1/2" straight bit set up in the router and I want
> to make a 3/8" rabbett...how do I set up the fence?
Move the *split* fence up to the bit. Use a straight edge, that spans the
fences and bit. Bring everything flush to the straight edge - and that's
zero. Move fence back 3/8".
The notion that took me a few minutes to grab is that the fence does not
need to be perpendicular to a table edge, nor parallel to an edge.
Ray,
I am no wood guru but all I do for a set up is eyeball it then use =
scrap to fine tune the cut.
Puff
"Ray Kinzler" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
> the answer but I am not 100% sure.
>=20
> How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
> well, anything?
>=20
> To be more specific, how do you line up the fence. I came up with the
> brilliant idea of making one to use with my dad's old router. I have
> used the thing as a flush trimmer but I have never done anything but
> that with a router.
>=20
> I made the table out of a piece of 3/4" MDF and glued a piece of
> hardbaord on top and waxed the heck out of it. I made the thing to
> house only the router I have because, well, I did. That may have been
> a mistake but the entire contraption only set me back about $20, so
> who cares?
>=20
> I made a fence out of a piece of hardwood and worked hard to make it
> square. And I was actually successful.
>=20
> Now the time has come to use it and...I don't know how!
>=20
> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
> than around a single point).
>=20
> Let's say I have a 1/2" straight bit set up in the router and I want
> to make a 3/8" rabbett...how do I set up the fence? I cannot believe
> it is all trial-and-error. Do I find the exact middle of the hole and
> draw a straight line all the way across the table and say that is 0"
> and place the fence 1/8" in FRONT of the line to cut the 3/8" rabbett?
> Because, in my mind, if you have a 1/2" straight bit and place it
> onthe line you drew, you would get a 1/2" rabbett.
>=20
> If the above is true, it would seem to me that I need to place the
> fence directly on that line and draw another line on the backend of
> the fence so I could use the back line to gauge the 1/8" I need to
> move the fence forward.
>=20
> AARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!! I am getting myself all wrapped up in my
> underwear!!! I think I am overthinking this and there HAS to be an
> easy way to do this!!!!!!
>=20
> Any help is appreciated. =20
>=20
> And I guess I will have to live with all the smears I will undoubtably
> get. But please keep in mind that it may sound like a really dumb
> question to all you that know but I simply do not understand at the
> moment. Everybody started out as a beginner and a novice, so...
>=20
> Thanks
Didn't catch the first of this thread but lack of information never
stopped me from jumping in before...
I built my router table using 2 $1 countertop sink cutouts from Menards.
They start out fairly flat anyway and by gluing the 2 non-laminated sides
together it made a very stiff and flat surface with a smooth top to boot.
The "trick" is to drill a hole in the center where the cut out will go.
Once you apply glue drop a bolt through the hole and tighten it up. Use
regular clamps around the outside. Once it is dry all you have to do is
mount it to a base.
I used my router to make slots for some T-track the fence attaches to.
The fence is simply MDF with some a strip of that laminate flooring
screwed on the front for a slick surface. I can also mark on the
laminate in pencil and just clean it off when I'm done.
Your right in that the fence doesn't need to be parallel unless you are
using a miter. The T-track has enough slop that I can force the fence to
a reasonable angle when it suits me.
Jim
Len <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 16:20:34 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]>
> scribbled:
>
>>
>>> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
>>> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
>>> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
>>> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
>>> than around a single point).
We have had many questions asked here and some even relate to
wooodworking.
Using a router table is not somthing that comes natural to
anybody. It is probably the most accurate way to accomplish
anything with a screaming motor turning at 22,500rpm with a
really sharp cutter on the end.
The basic fence is a straight board. It can be thick or thin
but the more bit you can "hide" in the fence , the better and
safer you are. A 2x4 or 2x6 and two clamps are usually good
fences.
MDF makes wonderful material for fences because it
has flat and smooth edges and surfaces.
Here is a simple router table and fence.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip040700wb.html
and another fence
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/woodtips/sntip54.html
and even more
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip010803ws.html
"How to cut a rabbet joint"
1. Use the largest straight cutting bit you have.
2. Bury the bit in the fence and make a rough
measurement with a ruler.
3. Cutting from right to left, make a test cut on scrap.
4. Measure and adjust fence.
5. Make another test cut.
6. Make the final cut.
Go to a library, bookstore, etc and start buying books on
router operations. There are many,many books on this subject.
Ray Kinzler wrote:
> Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
> the answer but I am not 100% sure.
>
> How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
> well, anything?
>
> To be more specific, how do you line up the fence. I came up with the
> brilliant idea of making one to use with my dad's old router. I have
> used the thing as a flush trimmer but I have never done anything but
> that with a router.
[email protected] (Ray Kinzler) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question. I think I know
> the answer but I am not 100% sure.
>
> How the heck do you use a router table to, say, cut a rabbett? Or,
> well, anything?
>
...
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
It may be a little late to post for this subject, but what the h!
I have found that the TV program "The Router Workshop" on Knowledge
Network here in Western Canada has taught me a lot about router uses and
safety. If you have this program in your area, it would be very
informative for you to check it out. They use a simple router table and
fence system, though they also use some jigs that are very expensive if
bought from their merchandise arm.
Norm Abram on "The New Yankee Workshop" often uses the router. Also here
in Canada you can see "In the Workshop" on HGTV. He (can't remember his
name at the moment) also uses the router table often.
Brian
Frank Ketchum said:[email protected]...
>
> My fence that I use for simple operations like this is so simple, it is
> lame. It is a piece of 3/4" plywood with a STRAIGHT edge, about 3 inches
> wide. I line it up on the correct side of the bit (behind it when feeding
> the workpiece from right to left) and clamp one end with a C- clamp. The I
> start the router, slowly plunge the bit into the fence by swinging the
> unclamped end of the fence into the bit. This makes a recess for the bit to
> be housed in. Then, shut off the router, turn the bit by hand so that it is
> perpendicular with the fence. Now, move the fence so that it measures the
> 3/8" or whatever to the outside of the bit and clamp the other end in place.
> Fine tune your setup with by running some scrap pieces of wood, and you will
> be good to go!
>
> Frank
---
Well, that's how I was going to do it, Frank. I made a fence that I
know is not all encompassing but it is more than adequate enough for
now. I, too, will be clamping my fence to the table. It it just two
pieces of wood glued at a 90-degree angle but the same sort of
principal: sort of primitive.
I thought I would draw my lines for, say, a rabbett on a scrap piece,
try to line it up the best I can by hand, then have at it. Then keep
messing around until I get it where I want it.
I just thought there may have been a trick, however obvious, that
would make this a speedier, more precise process.
Thanks!
>
> Interesting concept though; building a router table when you don't know how
> to use a router.
Toller,
You're right: it is an interesting concept. This may also be dumb but
I thought it would probably be easier and safer to use a router in a
router table if I am inexperienced. I don't know if it is or not but
I sorta feel safer this way.
I guess I did use a router to cut the hole for the router in the MDF.
It ain't the prettiest hole but ain't nobody gonna see it unless they
turn the table upside down.
I also see all these router tables out there that cost so darn much
money and they are really, well, SMALL. It seemed to me that a larger
table would probably be better.
So I made one. It cost about $20 for a table that is a little less
than 30" x 48". I put a couple 2x4s on it and clamp it in my Workmate
and I have a big, sturdy, and steady table.
Even if I don't use the stupid thing, I can say I made a router table
for $20. Plus it was fun. Maybe because I just winged it and made
something. Not high tech, for sure, but practical as heck.
DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I have an incra now, so I'm done with the trial and error, but here's
> what I did before...
>
> Trial and error.
>
> Get a scrap and measure 3/8 from the edge of the board and make a mark
> on the end where the router will first contact the board. You'll use
> this to fine-tune the fence later.
>
> Eyeball about 1/8" or so and route everything. Repeat for 1/4" (you
> want to sneak up on the right size). Do the scrap board too. Now you
> only have 1/8 left to route.
>
> With the router unplugged, rotate the bit so that one cutter is as far
> away from the fence as it gets (i.e. the bit is "90 degrees" to the
> fence). Put the scrap up against it and tap the fence over until the
> cutter just gets to the line, or maybe a little less. Fire up the
> router and route the first half inch or so of that scrap, just to see
> if you hit the line right. Measure and be sure. Tap the fence a
> little more if needed. Once the scrap's depth of cut is right, route
> all the other boards.
>
> If you go too far on the scrap, cut off an inch to expose another
> section to test on, and mark your 3/8 again.
>
Well, this is exactly what I thought: trial and error. Not the
easiest method in the world but probably the most useful because it
teaches you the most. I do like the trick of routing little bits and
to rotate the bit and tap the fence. Again, sort of what I thought
because it is common sense and I would have probably learned to rotate
the bit even the first time I tried to do it but it is better to know
this going in. Thanks.
> Second option: Get a scrap of the 3/8 thick board you're going to put
> in the rabbet and clamp it up against the fence. Now use a
> straightedge to line that up with the far side of the router bit.
>
> Long term: Using a known diameter bit, use the above to set the fence
> exactly halfway across the bit (i.e. centered on the router). Now,
> use an awl or marking knife (or even a pencil) along the fence to mark
> the centerline of the router. Make a second line one inch to the left
> of that one. Now you have references to measure your fence against
> when setting it up next time. You can even make multiple sets of
> these at different angles for different types of routing.
Now your long-term hint is a real nice one. I like that a whole lot!
I know I am going to do that one! Problem is I will need to make sure
my fence is perpendicular to these lines but that should be easily
over come.
I want to thnak all of you for your suggestions and encouragement.
One day, this novice tag will be dropped and I will have a bunch of
people to thank!
On 6 Feb 2004 07:00:56 -0800, [email protected] (Ray Kinzler)
wrote:
>Okay, I have a really, really dumb-sounding question.
No such thing.
>I made the table out of a piece of 3/4" MDF and glued a piece of
>hardbaord on top and waxed the heck out of it. I made the thing to
>house only the router I have because, well, I did. That may have been
>a mistake but the entire contraption only set me back about $20, so
>who cares?
You'll be surprised just how useful the cheapie table will turn out to
be.
>It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
>direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
>straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
>table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
>than around a single point).
Correct!
>Let's say I have a 1/2" straight bit set up in the router and I want
>to make a 3/8" rabbett...how do I set up the fence?
The bit will need to be recessed into the middle of the fence, so that
only 3/8" of the bit, at it's widest point, sticks out. The height of
the bit above the table governs how deep the rabbet will be.
So, to cut a 3/8" x 1/4" rabbet, you'd set the bit to protrude from
the fence 3/8", and the top (normally the bottom) of the bit will be
1/4" above the table surface. The work will then be slid along the
fence, keeping steady pressure against the fence and the table itself,
for the length of the cut.
A 3/4" or larger straight bit would be much better for a 3/8" rabbet
as at least half of the diameter of the bit would be behind the fence,
making for a better cut.
Practice on scrap until you get it right. Once you do, you'll see how
easy it is to setup.
One major safety note:
NEVER run the work between the fence and bit, as a board would be when
ripping on a table saw, if the bit is cutting the full thickness of
the board. Doing so will likely injure you, possibly seriously!
Some good router resources (check your local library for the books):
<http://www.patwarner.com/>
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0762101857/ref=pd_sim_books_5/103-4197325-0075802?v=glance&s=books>
The router is an extremely useful tool made even more so by even the
simplest table. Get to know it well!
Barry
On 6 Feb 2004 12:43:38 -0800, [email protected] (Ray Kinzler)
wrote:
>Frank Ketchum said:[email protected]...
>>
>> My fence that I use for simple operations like this is so simple, it is
>> lame. It is a piece of 3/4" plywood with a STRAIGHT edge, about 3 inches
>> wide. I line it up on the correct side of the bit (behind it when feeding
>> the workpiece from right to left) and clamp one end with a C- clamp. The I
>> start the router, slowly plunge the bit into the fence by swinging the
>> unclamped end of the fence into the bit. This makes a recess for the bit to
>> be housed in. Then, shut off the router, turn the bit by hand so that it is
>> perpendicular with the fence. Now, move the fence so that it measures the
>> 3/8" or whatever to the outside of the bit and clamp the other end in place.
>> Fine tune your setup with by running some scrap pieces of wood, and you will
>> be good to go!
>>
>> Frank
>
>
>---
>
>Well, that's how I was going to do it, Frank. I made a fence that I
>know is not all encompassing but it is more than adequate enough for
>now. I, too, will be clamping my fence to the table. It it just two
>pieces of wood glued at a 90-degree angle but the same sort of
>principal: sort of primitive.
>
>I thought I would draw my lines for, say, a rabbett on a scrap piece,
>try to line it up the best I can by hand, then have at it. Then keep
>messing around until I get it where I want it.
>
>I just thought there may have been a trick, however obvious, that
>would make this a speedier, more precise process.
>
>Thanks!
there are all kinds of "tricks". for instance, don't try to hog out a
big profile or a deep dado or rabbet in one pass...
a very good place to read up on router stuff is Pat Warner's website.
On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 16:20:34 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>
>> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
>> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
>> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
>> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
>> than around a single point).
>The orientation only matters if you have a miter slot you want to be
>parallel to.
>Interesting concept though; building a router table when you don't know how
>to use a router.
The concept of "learning" has always interested me as well, thus
woodworking as a practical method.
On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 16:31:26 GMT, Matt Zach <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Good for Ray.
>It sounds like he is diving right in there !
Yup!
Good for Ray!
Barry
> It seems to me that a router fence can actually be placed in any
> direction on a router table like mine and will always produce a
> straight line because the cut will be at a single point (unlike a
> table saw, for example, because the blade rotates on a plane rather
> than around a single point).
The orientation only matters if you have a miter slot you want to be
parallel to.
Interesting concept though; building a router table when you don't know how
to use a router.
Ray Kinzler wrote:
>
> You're right: it is an interesting concept. This may also be dumb but
> I thought it would probably be easier and safer to use a router in a
> router table if I am inexperienced. I don't know if it is or not but
> I sorta feel safer this way.
Not dumb at all. I use the table for 90+% of all the routing I do. I feel
I have better control, less dust flying, more accurate setups. I watch Norm
doing roudovers with a router. I just keep thinking how much easier and
faster it wold be to zip the piece along the bit in a table.
> I also see all these router tables out there that cost so darn much
> money and they are really, well, SMALL. It seemed to me that a larger
> table would probably be better.
Overall, bigger is better. Just be sure to place the router where you are
comfortable using it. There is no reason that it must be centered. If you
place it closer to the front, you can easily reack in doing smaller parts,
but you can work from the other side it you have very wide parts.
Build a cheaptable. Us it, find out what you like and don't like, then build
a better seup. The guys on Router Workshop use a simple setup of a flat top
and clamped fence that is usually just a straight board.
Just keep them fingers away from the bit.
--
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Ray Kinzler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
My fence that I use for simple operations like this is so simple, it is
lame. It is a piece of 3/4" plywood with a STRAIGHT edge, about 3 inches
wide. I line it up on the correct side of the bit (behind it when feeding
the workpiece from right to left) and clamp one end with a C- clamp. The I
start the router, slowly plunge the bit into the fence by swinging the
unclamped end of the fence into the bit. This makes a recess for the bit to
be housed in. Then, shut off the router, turn the bit by hand so that it is
perpendicular with the fence. Now, move the fence so that it measures the
3/8" or whatever to the outside of the bit and clamp the other end in place.
Fine tune your setup with by running some scrap pieces of wood, and you will
be good to go!
Frank
I have an incra now, so I'm done with the trial and error, but here's
what I did before...
Trial and error.
Get a scrap and measure 3/8 from the edge of the board and make a mark
on the end where the router will first contact the board. You'll use
this to fine-tune the fence later.
Eyeball about 1/8" or so and route everything. Repeat for 1/4" (you
want to sneak up on the right size). Do the scrap board too. Now you
only have 1/8 left to route.
With the router unplugged, rotate the bit so that one cutter is as far
away from the fence as it gets (i.e. the bit is "90 degrees" to the
fence). Put the scrap up against it and tap the fence over until the
cutter just gets to the line, or maybe a little less. Fire up the
router and route the first half inch or so of that scrap, just to see
if you hit the line right. Measure and be sure. Tap the fence a
little more if needed. Once the scrap's depth of cut is right, route
all the other boards.
If you go too far on the scrap, cut off an inch to expose another
section to test on, and mark your 3/8 again.
Second option: Get a scrap of the 3/8 thick board you're going to put
in the rabbet and clamp it up against the fence. Now use a
straightedge to line that up with the far side of the router bit.
Long term: Using a known diameter bit, use the above to set the fence
exactly halfway across the bit (i.e. centered on the router). Now,
use an awl or marking knife (or even a pencil) along the fence to mark
the centerline of the router. Make a second line one inch to the left
of that one. Now you have references to measure your fence against
when setting it up next time. You can even make multiple sets of
these at different angles for different types of routing.
[email protected] (Ray Kinzler) writes:
> I know I am going to do that one! Problem is I will need to make sure
> my fence is perpendicular to these lines but that should be easily
> over come.
If you know how far the fence needs to be from the line, it's easy.
Measure at the ends of the line/fence, not at the bit. Say you need
to set the fence 3/8 from the line. Measure 3/8 from one end, put the
fence there, and clamp that end. Now, measure 3/8 from the other end
and clamp that. Double check the first end, and you're done.
Of course, this assumes that the lines extend the entire length/width
of the table.