I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
connection between the bit and the extension.
Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
with couplers it should be handleable?
Above the edge of each joist, drill (4) 1/2" holes centered over
the joist and approximately 4" OC parallel to the joist and 2" OC
across (spanning) it. Insert a saber saw with 1-3/4"
long blade through the hole and cut across the joist and alongside
it, connecting the holes. Pry the 1-1/2" plywood out of the hole
and set aside. This will expose approximately 4" of the joist.
Using a longer blade in the saber saw, cut a 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" wide
slot in the joist, breaking the piece out. This will leave you
with a rectangular cut in the joist adequate for your 1-1/2" pipe
or conduit.
Glue and screw the removed plywood flooring back over the joist
after you've run the pipe, leveling it with floor patching
compound.
--
Nonny
When we talk to God, we're praying,
but when God talks to us,
we're schizophrenic.
What's the deal?
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:20:38 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>>plywood!
>>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>>
>>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>>> With no damage to the structure.
>>
>>
>>Your Original Post:
>>
>>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>>
>>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
>>Carpet there?
> I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
>giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.
>
>No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
>OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
>would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
>pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
>sort.
> (I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
>giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)
>
>Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
>damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.
>
>NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
>also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
>found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
>The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
>requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
>layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
>or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.
OK, the final question is: Why did you even ask for help?
Sign me "Stunned at his reaction and attitude" <blink, blink, shrug>
--
Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to
make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done,
whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be
learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably
the last lesson that he learns thoroughly.
-- Thomas H. Huxley
In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Skilsaw, cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
> adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
> saved: Humongous amounts.
I'm with you on this one, C-less.
He gets through 4 of the 6 joists, and whatever rig he's using snaps
somewhere between #3 and #4, with the bit embedded in #5 becuase he's
hit a knot... Start again.
How many times, and at what cost?
Clare... Don't be stupid. take the easy way.
In article <[email protected]>, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
> RE: Subject
>
> After rereading and hopefully understanding the problem, short of
> opening a seam thru that 1-1/2" plywood, as others have suggested, you
> can't get there from here.
>
> Unless.....................
>
> You approach this problem like drilling a well, only horizontally
> which will require significant cost to built all the componet parts.
>
> Opening up a seam will probably less costly.
>
> Back to basics, why is drilling necessary?
>
> What is the purpose?
>
As he said, he needs a cable pull.
I'd open a seam, notch the top of the joists, lay the cable (in a
conduit would be smart for future access so you could use a snake) and
seal the decking again.
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
> With no damage to the structure.
So you posted here for what reason? You were obviously finished the job
before most people had a chance to reply.
And now you decide to come back and insult the people you were asking
for advice...
Nice way to meet a bunch of kill-files, Clare.
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> The dang carpet is worth something like $50 a yard.
You said NOTHING about carpet in your original post.
Plonk.
On Mar 11, 7:46=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> =A0I've got myself into a situation -
> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use
Well, a drill that makes minimum sawdust uses lowest power; I'd
consider a length of black iron pipe with a tack-welded hole
saw on the end. If you support the iron pipe outboard of your
deck to be level, it should shoot straight enough to get to the
destination.
Just get a (disposable) hole saw and a 20' length of pipe, fit 'em
together and put a T handle or brace-and-bit on the drive end.
One or two supports to keep the shaft level (you can drill the
first hole with a standard setup, the shaft will rest in that hole
and you will want to level it carefully before doing the second).
After each punch-through, retract the drill and pull out the
wood plug.
It'll take a half day.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 07:11:15 -0800 (PST), Sonny <[email protected]>
wrote:
>A spade bit might have a rough punch-through, so go slow and have
>patience at the end point. Make sure the bit is sharp. I think I
>would try welding a spade bit onto a 1/2" pipe and make a separate
>chuck insert (fitted/welded onto a 1/2" sleeve, for the pipe) for
>fitting into the drill chuck. A spade bit is a lot cheaper than an
>auger bit for a one-time use (once welded).
>
>If access space, in starting, is limited, also, the 1/2" pipe can be
>in successive 24" - 36" sections. Any connecting sleeves will pass
>through the 1-1/2" holes and the chuck insert fitting can be moved
>back, as each successive pipe section is attached. Save the set-up
>for future use (???, LOL) and use the pipe sections for pipe clamps.
>
>Sonny
I tried the spade bit first ( on a test piece, out in the open) and
the breakthrough was BRUTAL. The forstner is self guiding and worked a
real treat.
On Mar 12, 4:48=EF=BF=BDpm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 07:11:15 -0800 (PST), Sonny <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >A spade bit might have a rough punch-through, so go slow and have
> >patience at the end point. =EF=BF=BDMake sure the bit is sharp. =EF=BF=
=BDI think I
> >would try welding a spade bit onto a 1/2" pipe and make a separate
> >chuck insert (fitted/welded onto a 1/2" sleeve, for the pipe) for
> >fitting into the drill chuck. =EF=BF=BDA spade bit is a lot cheaper than=
an
> >auger bit for a one-time use (once welded).
>
> >If access space, in starting, is limited, also, the 1/2" pipe can be
> >in successive 24" - 36" sections. =EF=BF=BDAny connecting sleeves will p=
ass
> >through the 1-1/2" holes and the chuck insert fitting can be moved
> >back, as each successive pipe section is attached. =EF=BF=BDSave the set=
-up
> >for future use (???, LOL) and use the pipe sections for pipe clamps.
>
> >Sonny
>
> =EF=BF=BDI tried the spade bit first ( on a test piece, out in the open) =
and
> the breakthrough was BRUTAL. The forstner is self guiding and worked a
> real treat.
Glad the pipes/extensions worked. That seemed the logical approach.
I didn't think of using a forstner bit and I'll remember the lesson of
that big of spade bit. I've never had to use one that big. And you
still have the pipes for clamps!
Sonny
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I've got myself into a situation -
> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly
> on
> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on
> the
> connection between the bit and the extension.
>
> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex
> shaft
> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
> with couplers it should be handleable?
-----------------------------------------
This is a TOTAL PITA solution, but it will get the job done.
Drill a 1/4" dia pilot thru every 2x8, then it is time for a 1-1/2"
hole saw AND a 1/2" right angle drill.
If you question the need for a right angle drill, you have never used
many hole saws.
Nuf said.
Drill each 2x8 about 1/2-3/4 way thru then try to break out plug and
remove from hole saw.
Now back drill from the other side to complete hole.
Labor intensive, slow, and a probably got to stand on your head kind
of job, but it will do the job.
IOW, a total PITA.
Have fun.
Lew
On 3/11/2010 10:06 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull
>> cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting
>> directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that
>> right) plywood.
>
> This is a TOTAL PITA solution, but it will get the job done.
>
> Drill a 1/4" dia pilot thru every 2x8, then it is time for a 1-1/2"
> hole saw AND a 1/2" right angle drill.
I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way he'd
be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his body
down to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and the
decking. Quite a trick, that.
What I don't understand is when he says the joists are "only accessible
from the one side". What does this mean? That the openings between
joists are only accessible from one side of the house? I'm having a hard
time picturing this. And how the hell would he get in there in the first
place--drill a hole from the outside through the rim joist, then each
joist in turn after that?
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>> that right) plywood.
>
> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested
a hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I've got myself into a situation -
> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers.
----------------------------------
"David Nebenzahl" wrote:
> I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way
> he'd be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his
> body down to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and
> the decking. Quite a trick, that.
-----------------------------------
Depends how you interept thev above phrase:
" I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side."
I interept that to mean he has access to one side such as floor joists
in a house with a basement.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got myself into a situation -
> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
> connection between the bit and the extension.
>
> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
> with couplers it should be handleable?
I don't see any drill working, as the shaft diameter is always much smaller
than the drill bit. To drill 6 joists with a 1 1/2" bit means the bit will
drop about 5/8" with each hole as the shaft rests on the previous hole
bottom, 5/8" x 5 joists (I am assuming the first hole will be accurate) = 3
1/8", so you will either have to start real high on the first hole or hit
the concrete with the last hole. I cannot think of any way of getting such a
large hole drilled through so many joists in one go. Can you not go around
the ends and come in from there some how?
On 3/12/2010 12:17 AM Lew Hodgett spake thus:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers.
>
> "David Nebenzahl" wrote:
>
>> I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way
>> he'd be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his
>> body down to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and
>> the decking. Quite a trick, that.
>
> Depends how you interept thev above phrase:
>
> " I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side."
>
> I interept that to mean he has access to one side such as floor joists
> in a house with a basement.
Yabbut right after that he wrote:
> The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
> 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
Guess you missed that part, eh?
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
"David Nebenzahl" wrote:
> Yabbut right after that he wrote:
>
>> The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
>> 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> Guess you missed that part, eh?
------------------------------------
Not engaging brain late at night will do that to ya.
Mea Culpa.
Lew
RE: Subject
After rereading and hopefully understanding the problem, short of
opening a seam thru that 1-1/2" plywood, as others have suggested, you
can't get there from here.
Unless.....................
You approach this problem like drilling a well, only horizontally
which will require significant cost to built all the componet parts.
Opening up a seam will probably less costly.
Back to basics, why is drilling necessary?
What is the purpose?
Lew
On 3/12/2010 12:47 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:
> "David Nebenzahl" wrote:
>
>> Yabbut right after that he wrote:
>>
>>> The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
>>> 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> Guess you missed that part, eh?
>
> Not engaging brain late at night will do that to ya.
>
> Mea Culpa.
No problemo.
You just owe me a free pass the next time *my* brain goes pfffffft!
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
RE: Subject
Lesson learned.
Wait until [email protected] has made at least 3 responses to others
before considering a post.
Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
problem.
Lew
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:05:40 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>> With no damage to the structure.
>
>So you posted here for what reason? You were obviously finished the job
>before most people had a chance to reply.
>
>And now you decide to come back and insult the people you were asking
>for advice...
>
>Nice way to meet a bunch of kill-files, Clare.
I was hoping for some input last night. By noon today I had to get
moving. I decided on my own that the forstner was the way to go, and
it appears I was right..
No one even addressed the question I asked - everyone (well, just
about everyone) intimated I was crazy to try and I was better to
dismantle the raised floor to do the job. Was NOT going to happen.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>plywood!
>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>
>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>> With no damage to the structure.
>
>
>Your Original Post:
>
>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>
>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
>Carpet there?
I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.
No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
sort.
(I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)
Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.
NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 18:41:45 -0800 (PST), Sonny <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mar 12, 4:48?pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 07:11:15 -0800 (PST), Sonny <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >A spade bit might have a rough punch-through, so go slow and have
>> >patience at the end point. ?Make sure the bit is sharp. ?I think I
>> >would try welding a spade bit onto a 1/2" pipe and make a separate
>> >chuck insert (fitted/welded onto a 1/2" sleeve, for the pipe) for
>> >fitting into the drill chuck. ?A spade bit is a lot cheaper than an
>> >auger bit for a one-time use (once welded).
>>
>> >If access space, in starting, is limited, also, the 1/2" pipe can be
>> >in successive 24" - 36" sections. ?Any connecting sleeves will pass
>> >through the 1-1/2" holes and the chuck insert fitting can be moved
>> >back, as each successive pipe section is attached. ?Save the set-up
>> >for future use (???, LOL) and use the pipe sections for pipe clamps.
>>
>> >Sonny
>>
>> ?I tried the spade bit first ( on a test piece, out in the open) and
>> the breakthrough was BRUTAL. The forstner is self guiding and worked a
>> real treat.
>
>Glad the pipes/extensions worked. That seemed the logical approach.
>I didn't think of using a forstner bit and I'll remember the lesson of
>that big of spade bit. I've never had to use one that big. And you
>still have the pipes for clamps!
>
>Sonny
Thanks Sonny - you were about the only respondent that even
considered my plan might work. Asked the "boss" what the chances were
that I might use the setup again in my lifetime (I'm 58) and he just
laughed.
If I had to pull the bit back out the holes it might have been a
problem, but I was able to reach in the access hole where the
electrical boxes will be mounted, 13 feet in, and release the bit with
an allen key, tie a twine on the end of the extension, and pull it
back out the hole. The twine will pull in the cable on Monday.
On Mar 12, 12:56=A0am, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "allen476" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:a814e600-b29a-482d-9427-f33356a13dd0@t41g2000yqt.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 11, 10:48 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> > > I've got myself into a situation -
> > >I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> > >the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> > >across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> > >concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> > >What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
> > >needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
> > >I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
> > >"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
> > >connection between the bit and the extension.
>
> > >Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> > >Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
> > >might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
> > >welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
> > >with couplers it should be handleable?
>
> > Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>
> You would want to use an auger bit, but at that length you will be
> looking at a custom bit. Not cheap but if you DAGS "custom made auger
> bit", you will find some that make them. Why does your hole have to be
> that big?
>
> A regular auger bit on extensions should do it. It only goes threw one bo=
ard
> at a time.
But 10' of extensions will be the real PITA. If you don't get the set
screws tight, you'll be ripping up the floor.
Did 6' like that once. Never again.
Allen
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:30:04 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Karen could have SUNG the damned hole into it. I was way up in the
>cheap seats at the Jacksonville Coliseum when her mike died. She still
>managed to make herself heard. That was a _big_ hall with lousy
>acoustics. Shit, I get all maudlin every time I think about her.
You ADMIT to going to see The Carpenters in concert, you brave and
foolish person? <g>
--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>plywood!
>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>
>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>> With no damage to the structure.
>
>
>Your Original Post:
>
>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>
>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
>Carpet there?
No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
proposition, even without carpet.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, clare wrote:
> I've got myself into a situation -
> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from the
> one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable across
> to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it needs
> to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----. I tried a speed-bore type
> spade bit, but it has a bad habit of "catching" just as it breaks
> through - putting a severe strain on the connection between the bit and
> the extension.
>
> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I might
> need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft welded
> into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length with
> couplers it should be handleable?
used to work in the pile driving business, had to bolt piles together for
breakwaters, welded the 1" bits onto 4-5' rods. 1 person would hold the
centre of the rod to keep the wobble down. will take some work to keep
the holes lined up straight because of the spaces between the joists will
allow the bits to drop.
"allen476" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a814e600-b29a-482d-9427-f33356a13dd0@t41g2000yqt.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 11, 10:48 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> > I've got myself into a situation -
> >I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> >the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> >across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> >concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> >What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
> >needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
> >I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
> >"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
> >connection between the bit and the extension.
>
> >Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> >Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
> >might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
> >welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
> >with couplers it should be handleable?
>
> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
You would want to use an auger bit, but at that length you will be
looking at a custom bit. Not cheap but if you DAGS "custom made auger
bit", you will find some that make them. Why does your hole have to be
that big?
A regular auger bit on extensions should do it. It only goes threw one board
at a time.
In article <[email protected]>,
Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>
>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>> suggested a
>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>> high
>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>
>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>
>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>
>That's a half-asp addertude.
Methinks some of these joke don't adder up. OH, krait, I'm contributing to
the problem.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:06:40 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly
>> on
>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on
>> the
>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex
>> shaft
>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>-----------------------------------------
>This is a TOTAL PITA solution, but it will get the job done.
>
>Drill a 1/4" dia pilot thru every 2x8, then it is time for a 1-1/2"
>hole saw AND a 1/2" right angle drill.
Except haw are you going to get down between the joists and between
the concrete floor and the raiised decking?.
You did not understand the problem. NO ACCESS. Only the face of the
"platform" is accessible.
>If you question the need for a right angle drill, you have never used
>many hole saws.
>
>Nuf said.
>
>Drill each 2x8 about 1/2-3/4 way thru then try to break out plug and
>remove from hole saw.
>
>Now back drill from the other side to complete hole.
>
>Labor intensive, slow, and a probably got to stand on your head kind
>of job, but it will do the job.
>
>IOW, a total PITA.
>
>Have fun.
>
>Lew
>
>
On Mar 11, 10:48=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> > I've got myself into a situation -
> >I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> >the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
> >across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
> >concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
> >What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
> >needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
> >I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
> >"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
> >connection between the bit and the extension.
>
> >Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
> >Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
> >might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
> >welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
> >with couplers it should be handleable?
>
> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
You would want to use an auger bit, but at that length you will be
looking at a custom bit. Not cheap but if you DAGS "custom made auger
bit", you will find some that make them. Why does your hole have to be
that big?
Allen
A spade bit might have a rough punch-through, so go slow and have
patience at the end point. Make sure the bit is sharp. I think I
would try welding a spade bit onto a 1/2" pipe and make a separate
chuck insert (fitted/welded onto a 1/2" sleeve, for the pipe) for
fitting into the drill chuck. A spade bit is a lot cheaper than an
auger bit for a one-time use (once welded).
If access space, in starting, is limited, also, the 1/2" pipe can be
in successive 24" - 36" sections. Any connecting sleeves will pass
through the 1-1/2" holes and the chuck insert fitting can be moved
back, as each successive pipe section is attached. Save the set-up
for future use (???, LOL) and use the pipe sections for pipe clamps.
Sonny
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 23:04:31 -0800, David Nebenzahl
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/11/2010 10:06 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:
>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull
>>> cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting
>>> directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that
>>> right) plywood.
>>
>> This is a TOTAL PITA solution, but it will get the job done.
>>
>> Drill a 1/4" dia pilot thru every 2x8, then it is time for a 1-1/2"
>> hole saw AND a 1/2" right angle drill.
>
>I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way he'd
>be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his body
>down to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and the
>decking. Quite a trick, that.
>
>What I don't understand is when he says the joists are "only accessible
>from the one side". What does this mean? That the openings between
>joists are only accessible from one side of the house? I'm having a hard
>time picturing this. And how the hell would he get in there in the first
>place--drill a hole from the outside through the rim joist, then each
>joist in turn after that?
OK - not in a house. Raised floor in what WAS an auditorium (theatre).
Being made into office space.. The "face" of the platform (raised
seating area) is all that is accessible. Need to get power and data
into the center of that raised floorspace for 6 work-stations.
Make more sense now??
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:10:08 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/12/2010 6:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:10:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
>> <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> In article<[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Skilsaw, cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>>>> adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>>>> saved: Humongous amounts.
>>>
>>> I'm with you on this one, C-less.
>>>
>>> He gets through 4 of the 6 joists, and whatever rig he's using snaps
>>> somewhere between #3 and #4, with the bit embedded in #5 becuase he's
>>> hit a knot... Start again.
>>>
>>> How many times, and at what cost?
>>>
>>> Clare... Don't be stupid. take the easy way.
>> I did take the easy way.
>> The dang carpet is worth something like $50 a yard.
>> The plywood is glued and screwed to the joists. Cannot remove it
>> without doing significant damage. And remember i it is ONE AND A HALF
>> INCHES THICK.
>>
>> I made the tool to do the job and got the job done. Including my time
>> the cost was just around the hundred bucks (they pay me $35 an hour)
>
>That's not bad at all--there's a guy who makes 10 foot extensions and
>gets something like 100 bucks a shot for them.
"the original" ten foot drill?
Ran across that one as I was looking for a solution.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:31:01 -0800 (PST), allen476 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mar 11, 10:48Â pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>> > I've got myself into a situation -
>> >I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> >the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>> >across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>> >concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> >What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>> >needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>> >I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>> >"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>> >connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>> >Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> >Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>> >might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>> >welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>> >with couplers it should be handleable?
>>
>> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>
>You would want to use an auger bit, but at that length you will be
>looking at a custom bit. Not cheap but if you DAGS "custom made auger
>bit", you will find some that make them. Why does your hole have to be
>that big?
>
>Allen
Have to pull 4 #12 BX cables through it
LDosser wrote:
> On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
> plywood!
Or cut a strip out the entire length, and re-lay it afterwards.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:00:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:31:41 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
>scrawled the following:
>
>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:15:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
>>>scrawled the following:
>>>
>>>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>
>>>What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
>>>to pull it?
>>
>>It is gled and screwed to the joists so it can not be removed without
>>destroying both.
>
>Nah, just cut a foot wide strip, cut it out between joists, break off
>most of the top, and route or chisel it flat. No joist damage.
>
>
>>>>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>>
>>>Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
>>>mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
>>>extension, do you?!?
>>
>>Yes TWE:LVE FEET.
>>
>>I did it this afternoon. bought a 12 inch 7/15 AF extension and cut
>>it in half. Banged the cut end of each peice into a 1.4 to 3/8 NPT
>>bushing and mig welded it in. Put that bushing into a 1/2 to 3/8NPT
>>reducer and threaded it onto each end of a 4 ft piece of 1/2"
>>galvanized water pipe. Chucked a 1 1/2" forstner bit into the hex bit
>>holder end, and chucked the other end into a 450RPM half inch drill.
>>When I got in 4 feet, I took off the drive end with s pipe wrench and
>>using a pipe couipling, added another 4 feet, and so on untill I was
>
>Oh, so you had access from the side? I don't believe you mentioned
>that. You just say you -didn't- have it from the bottom.
>
>
>>in all the way.
>
>I love those four words together, in that pattern. <domg>
>
>
>>>>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>>>
>>>>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>>Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
>>>sets available if you like 'em.
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>>>with couplers it should be handleable?
>>>
>>>Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
>>>the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
>>>nail it in? <grrr> Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
>>>cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>>>adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>>>saved: Humongous amounts.
>>>
>>
>>Did you read ONE AND A HALF INCH THICK PLYWOOD????
>
>Yeah, it's called "flooring", clare. Some is screwed, some nailed,
>some nailed and glued, some screwed and glued. Here's the key point I
>was making: IT'S JUST WOOD. You can handle cutting wood, yes? ;)
>
>
>>Doing it with the water pipe took almost half an hour for the first
>>hole, and 10 minutes for the second one. Making the tool took 1/2 hour
>>at the "borg" getting parts, and half an hour at the fabricating shop
>>cutting and welding.
>
>Alright, so you're done. Good for you. How did you like the way the
>forstner worked?
It worked very well, thank you. Would have worked better if it was
sharp (it was a borrowed well-used bit)
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..
It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
to pull it?
>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
extension, do you?!?
>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
sets available if you like 'em.
>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>with couplers it should be handleable?
Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
nail it in? <grrr> Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
saved: Humongous amounts.
>Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
I'd hold my light sabre down there for a couple quick punches through,
one from each side. No extension necessary. ;)
--
There is no such thing as limits to growth, because there are no limits
to the human capacity for intelligence, imagination, and wonder.
--Ronald Reagan
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> I've got myself into a situation -
>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>connection between the bit and the extension.
>
>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>with couplers it should be handleable?
We had to drill out a boat hull for a prop shaft and ending up welding
an auger bit to a metal shaft. Had a jib for rolling the shaft and
bit to get a good weld and hold everything true. A heavy wall pipe
might work ok but we used solid. Did some grinding to be able to get
a lot of fill.
Mike M
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 15:56:16 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
> I just asked which kind of bit would require the least amount of
>power, making it the easiest to do the job.
>
>Sorry you don't like my attitude, but I wasn't asking how to do the
>job. I was just asking what tool to use.
Had that been made clear, we wouldn't have replied as we did.
>It had already been decided for me that the job needed to be done
>without tearing up the decking, and I can't help it if some people
>cannot read or grasp the reality of what was written.
Ah, but you _didn't_ write that part. <shrug>
>I though I had
>explained the setup adequately in clear enough language - I guess,
>from the replies, I was wrong.
To avoid having people rethink the problem for you, state your reason
for not doing it x, y, and z ways in your initial request. The more
info given, the less there is on which to misinterpret or ad-lib.
Glad you got it done.
--
I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study
mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and
philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation,
commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to
study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and
porcelain.
-- John Adams
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:36:32 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>You can't go AROUND the decK?
>
>At the expense you're looking at, you could build a nicely trimmed valence
>box of some kind to hide the cable
>
>
>
>I guess routing a couple channels into the deck wouldn't work either?
I'll explain it again - ONE more time. The situation is this:
A company I do a lot of work for is moving into a new office. The
building was set up as a training center, with a theatre room in it.
They need office space, not a theatre. The stage area was removed, and
the lower level of the 2 raised seating areas was also removed,
leaving the back third of the room raised about 17 1/2 inches above
the concrete floor. We have electricity and data cables available at
the edge of this raisedplatform that need to go to the center of the
platform. There are walls on 3 sides Concrete on 2. Finished hallway
on the other side. The only way into the space under the platform is
from the front - from the room side of the platform. It is a solid
wooden "beam" made out of 2X8 lumber, stacked 2 high.. There are a
number of these, running across the room, parallel to that front edge,
extending from the floor to the deck, at right angles to where the
cable needs to go...
Removing the carpet and routing in channels might have been an option,
but with power cables you need to be something like 2 inches down or
covered with steel to protect the cable from nails etc.
The best way seemed to be to drill through the "joists" and pull in
the cables.
I asked what kind of drill bit would take the least power to do the
job - I had found s "speed-bor" type bit jammed when breaking through
- and since I had to break through several times did not think it was
the best solution.
Nobody gave me an answer about forstner vs auger. I did more research,
and then got hold of a forstner bit and found it worked well -
connected to 12 feet of 1/2 inch water ppe to reach all the way in..
I cut an access hole in the deck where we will be installing a
"theatre box" ftom the removed stage to feed the cables through up to
the workstatoions being set up on the raised platform (6 workstations
with power, phone, and network cables for each) and tied a string to
the extension after removing the bit to pull the cables in with.
I'll be installing the cables early next week.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 06:35:21 -0800 (PST), allen476 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mar 12, 12:56Â am, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "allen476" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:a814e600-b29a-482d-9427-f33356a13dd0@t41g2000yqt.googlegroups.com...
>> On Mar 11, 10:48 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>> > > I've got myself into a situation -
>> > >I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> > >the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>> > >across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>> > >concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> > >What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>> > >needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>> > >I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>> > >"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>> > >connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>> > >Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> > >Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>> > >might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>> > >welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>> > >with couplers it should be handleable?
>>
>> > Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>>
>> You would want to use an auger bit, but at that length you will be
>> looking at a custom bit. Not cheap but if you DAGS "custom made auger
>> bit", you will find some that make them. Why does your hole have to be
>> that big?
>>
>> A regular auger bit on extensions should do it. It only goes threw one board
>> at a time.
>
>But 10' of extensions will be the real PITA. If you don't get the set
>screws tight, you'll be ripping up the floor.
>
>Did 6' like that once. Never again.
>
>Allen
I know, I bought a couple of 18" extensions to drill down the wall in
my daughter's townhouse to install wiring for bedroom ceiling lights.
Paid $18 each for the extensinsa, and stripped one on the first hole.
Thanfully the second didn't need as much length.
This time I used 1/2" water pipe, threaded together with pipe
couplings.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>with couplers it should be handleable?
>
> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:48:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
><[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>RE: Subject
>>
>>Lesson learned.
>>
>>Wait until [email protected] has made at least 3 responses to others
>>before considering a post.
>>
>>Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
>>problem.
>
>Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?
I didn't think I had to lay it ALL out to get the answer to the
question I was asking.
I just asked what was the lowest power-absorbing kind of drill bit to
use to drill numerous holes in SPF floor joists. I guess I gave TOO
MUCH information in my request, which sent everybody off in all sorts
of directions OTHER than the power requirements of different drilling
methods.
Then I got stuck explaining why the answers I was getting were not the
answer to the question I asked.
The answer, from trying it and other observations -
A) -The spade bit breaks through unpredictable and may jam, causing
high torque to be transmitted through the drive (it took the gearcase
off a brand new PorterCable hanner drill, running in straight drilling
mode and low gear with ONE catch)
B) - an auger bit in the size I required was not readily available to
test
C) a 1/3.4" Forstner bit with 7/16" hex drive was available to be
tried, and it had no break-through issues, even when not drilling
square because of it's self guiding and basically 360 degree cutting
action. . It exhibited very low driving torque requirements as
detected at the drill-motor - and did the job just fine.
It did the job on the end of a series of 1.2 inch water pipes threaded
together to go in 12 feet.
On 3/12/2010 1:08 AM, LDosser wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>
>>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>
>>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>>
>>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>>
>> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>
>
> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
If I understand correctly what he wrote, he doesn't have any access--he
has to drill the first joist and then drill the second one through the
hole in the first, and so on. The difficulty seems to be the 12 feet of
extension--not extension _cord_ but bit extension.
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:37:46 -0400, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:48:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
>><[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>RE: Subject
>>>
>>>Lesson learned.
>>>
>>>Wait until [email protected] has made at least 3 responses to others
>>>before considering a post.
>>>
>>>Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
>>>problem.
>>
>>Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?
>
>
>I didn't think I had to lay it ALL out to get the answer to the
>question I was asking.
C'mon, Clare. You know us better than that. We're _fixers_, fer
cryin' out loud. Too little info just screams to be addended!
--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/12/2010 1:08 AM, LDosser wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>>
>>>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>>
>>>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>>>
>>>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>>>
>>> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>>
>>
>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>
> If I understand correctly what he wrote, he doesn't have any access--he
> has to drill the first joist and then drill the second one through the
> hole in the first, and so on. The difficulty seems to be the 12 feet of
> extension--not extension _cord_ but bit extension.
>
On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
"David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>
>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>> that right) plywood.
>>
>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>
> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested a
> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
Buy a Boa? :)
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers.
> ----------------------------------
> "David Nebenzahl" wrote:
>
>> I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way he'd
>> be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his body down
>> to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and the decking.
>> Quite a trick, that.
> -----------------------------------
>
> Depends how you interept thev above phrase:
>
> " I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side."
>
> I interept that to mean he has access to one side such as floor joists in
> a house with a basement.
He also said: "The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking
is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood."
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>"David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>
>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>
>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>
>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested
>>> a
>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>
>>
>>Buy a Boa? :)
>
> Yeah, a boa contractor.
No a feather boa, and take up dancing.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I've drilled some long applications. About 8' is the longest, and never
with the size cutter you are talking about. Depending on what you are using
for extensions gravity can be a factor also. Break out may not be all that
important depending on the application, but all bits I have used experience
break out in wood. Some worse than others.
I have lost bits and extensions inside walls and other spaces. That is
something to be avoided if you can, but there are a few of my bits still in
some of those places.
Given that you are making multiple holes through 2 by you will want to
consider that the bit will dull slightly after each penetration. To
minimize breakout you will want to have a couple bits or atleast the ability
to sharpen the cutting edges.
You may want to consider some kid of sleeve and a helper to hold the sleeve
level (or slightly above level) while you work. If you are on the clock it
may be cheaper and faster to just remove decking as some have suggested.
Even if you have to replace some of it.
On 3/12/2010 12:53 PM, EXT wrote:
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>
> I don't see any drill working, as the shaft diameter is always much
> smaller than the drill bit. To drill 6 joists with a 1 1/2" bit means
> the bit will drop about 5/8" with each hole as the shaft rests on the
> previous hole bottom, 5/8" x 5 joists (I am assuming the first hole will
> be accurate) = 3 1/8", so you will either have to start real high on the
> first hole or hit the concrete with the last hole. I cannot think of any
> way of getting such a large hole drilled through so many joists in one
> go. Can you not go around the ends and come in from there some how?
Just needs a steady rest.
On 3/12/2010 6:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:10:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
> <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>
>> In article<[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Skilsaw, cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>>> adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>>> saved: Humongous amounts.
>>
>> I'm with you on this one, C-less.
>>
>> He gets through 4 of the 6 joists, and whatever rig he's using snaps
>> somewhere between #3 and #4, with the bit embedded in #5 becuase he's
>> hit a knot... Start again.
>>
>> How many times, and at what cost?
>>
>> Clare... Don't be stupid. take the easy way.
> I did take the easy way.
> The dang carpet is worth something like $50 a yard.
> The plywood is glued and screwed to the joists. Cannot remove it
> without doing significant damage. And remember i it is ONE AND A HALF
> INCHES THICK.
>
> I made the tool to do the job and got the job done. Including my time
> the cost was just around the hundred bucks (they pay me $35 an hour)
That's not bad at all--there's a guy who makes 10 foot extensions and
gets something like 100 bucks a shot for them.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>plywood!
> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
> the plywood and the joists?????..
>
> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
> With no damage to the structure.
Your Original Post:
[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>"David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>
>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>
>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>
>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested
>>> a
>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>
>>
>>Buy a Boa? :)
>
> Yeah, a boa contractor.
And if that doesn't work, Python it.
On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>
>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>> suggested a
>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>> high
>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>
>>>
>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>
>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>
> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
That's a half-asp addertude.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>>plywood!
>>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>>
>>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>>> With no damage to the structure.
>>
>>
>>Your Original Post:
>>
>>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>>
>>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about
>>$50/yd
>>Carpet there?
> No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
> proposition, even without carpet.
Yeah, right ...
On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>
>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>> suggested a
>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>> high
>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>
>>>
>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>
>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>
> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>
>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>> suggested a
>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>> high
>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>
>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>
>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>
> That's a half-asp addertude.
aaargh .,..
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>
>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>> suggested a
>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>> high
>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>
>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>
>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>
> You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
> termites.
Better yet, Carpenter Ants.
"Robert Bonomi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> LDosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>>"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>>>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>>>
>>>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>>>> suggested a
>>>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>>>> high
>>>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>>>
>>>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>>>
>>> You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
>>> termites.
>>
>>
>>Better yet, Carpenter Ants.
>>
>
> How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this-
> problem?
>
>
>
Teeth?
On 3/13/2010 8:41 PM, LDosser wrote:
> "Robert Bonomi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> LDosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>>>>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you
>>>>>>>>>>> read
>>>>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>>>>> suggested a
>>>>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>>>>> high
>>>>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>>>>
>>>>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>>>>
>>>> You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
>>>> termites.
>>>
>>>
>>> Better yet, Carpenter Ants.
>>>
>>
>> How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this-
>> problem?
>>
>>
>>
>
> Teeth?
Karen could have SUNG the damned hole into it. I was way up in the
cheap seats at the Jacksonville Coliseum when her mike died. She still
managed to make herself heard. That was a _big_ hall with lousy
acoustics. Shit, I get all maudlin every time I think about her.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:15:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
>scrawled the following:
>
>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
>What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
>to pull it?
It is gled and screwed to the joists so it can not be removed without
destroying both.
>
>
>>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>
>Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
>mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
>extension, do you?!?
Yes TWE:LVE FEET.
I did it this afternoon. bought a 12 inch 7/15 AF extension and cut
it in half. Banged the cut end of each peice into a 1.4 to 3/8 NPT
bushing and mig welded it in. Put that bushing into a 1/2 to 3/8NPT
reducer and threaded it onto each end of a 4 ft piece of 1/2"
galvanized water pipe. Chucked a 1 1/2" forstner bit into the hex bit
holder end, and chucked the other end into a 450RPM half inch drill.
When I got in 4 feet, I took off the drive end with s pipe wrench and
using a pipe couipling, added another 4 feet, and so on untill I was
in all the way.
>
>
>>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>
>>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
>sets available if you like 'em.
>
>
>>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>with couplers it should be handleable?
>
>Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
>the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
>nail it in? <grrr> Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
>cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>saved: Humongous amounts.
>
Did you read ONE AND A HALF INCH THICK PLYWOOD????
Doing it with the water pipe took almost half an hour for the first
hole, and 10 minutes for the second one. Making the tool took 1/2 hour
at the "borg" getting parts, and half an hour at the fabricating shop
cutting and welding.
>
>>Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>
>I'd hold my light sabre down there for a couple quick punches through,
>one from each side. No extension necessary. ;)
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>"David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>
>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>
>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>
>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested a
>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>
>
>Buy a Boa? :)
Yeah, a boa contractor.
--
There is no such thing as limits to growth, because there are no limits
to the human capacity for intelligence, imagination, and wonder.
--Ronald Reagan
In article <[email protected]>,
David Nebenzahl <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/12/2010 12:47 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:
>
>> "David Nebenzahl" wrote:
>>
>>> Yabbut right after that he wrote:
>>>
>>>> The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
>>>> 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>
>>> Guess you missed that part, eh?
>>
>> Not engaging brain late at night will do that to ya.
>>
>> Mea Culpa.
>
>No problemo.
>
>You just owe me a free pass the next time *my* brain goes pfffffft!
I can see it now:
"This is your brain.....
This is your brain on an air-hose. <pffffft!>"
`
In article <[email protected]>,
LDosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>>
>>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>>> suggested a
>>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>>> high
>>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>>
>>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>>
>> You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
>> termites.
>
>
>Better yet, Carpenter Ants.
>
How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this- problem?
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 12:53:21 -0500, "EXT"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>
>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>
>I don't see any drill working, as the shaft diameter is always much smaller
>than the drill bit. To drill 6 joists with a 1 1/2" bit means the bit will
>drop about 5/8" with each hole as the shaft rests on the previous hole
>bottom, 5/8" x 5 joists (I am assuming the first hole will be accurate) = 3
>1/8", so you will either have to start real high on the first hole or hit
>the concrete with the last hole. I cannot think of any way of getting such a
>large hole drilled through so many joists in one go. Can you not go around
>the ends and come in from there some how?
Absolutely no way.
And I did it today. Started with the first hole just clear of the
decking - ended up abot 3 inches down from the decking at the other
end.. And I had something like 15 inches of joist to play with.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:31:41 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:15:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
>>scrawled the following:
>>
>>>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>>What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
>>to pull it?
>
>It is gled and screwed to the joists so it can not be removed without
>destroying both.
Nah, just cut a foot wide strip, cut it out between joists, break off
most of the top, and route or chisel it flat. No joist damage.
>>>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>
>>Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
>>mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
>>extension, do you?!?
>
>Yes TWE:LVE FEET.
>
>I did it this afternoon. bought a 12 inch 7/15 AF extension and cut
>it in half. Banged the cut end of each peice into a 1.4 to 3/8 NPT
>bushing and mig welded it in. Put that bushing into a 1/2 to 3/8NPT
>reducer and threaded it onto each end of a 4 ft piece of 1/2"
>galvanized water pipe. Chucked a 1 1/2" forstner bit into the hex bit
>holder end, and chucked the other end into a 450RPM half inch drill.
>When I got in 4 feet, I took off the drive end with s pipe wrench and
>using a pipe couipling, added another 4 feet, and so on untill I was
Oh, so you had access from the side? I don't believe you mentioned
that. You just say you -didn't- have it from the bottom.
>in all the way.
I love those four words together, in that pattern. <domg>
>>>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>>
>>>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
>>sets available if you like 'em.
>>
>>
>>>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>>with couplers it should be handleable?
>>
>>Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
>>the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
>>nail it in? <grrr> Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
>>cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>>adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>>saved: Humongous amounts.
>>
>
>Did you read ONE AND A HALF INCH THICK PLYWOOD????
Yeah, it's called "flooring", clare. Some is screwed, some nailed,
some nailed and glued, some screwed and glued. Here's the key point I
was making: IT'S JUST WOOD. You can handle cutting wood, yes? ;)
>Doing it with the water pipe took almost half an hour for the first
>hole, and 10 minutes for the second one. Making the tool took 1/2 hour
>at the "borg" getting parts, and half an hour at the fabricating shop
>cutting and welding.
Alright, so you're done. Good for you. How did you like the way the
forstner worked?
--
There is no such thing as limits to growth, because there are no limits
to the human capacity for intelligence, imagination, and wonder.
--Ronald Reagan
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:01:38 -0600, the infamous
[email protected] (Robert Bonomi) scrawled the following:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>LDosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>>"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
>>>> "Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
>>>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>>>
>>>>>> "David Nebenzahl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>> On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>>>>>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
>>>>>>>>>> from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
>>>>>>>>>> pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
>>>>>>>>>> sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
>>>>>>>>>> that right) plywood.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
>>>>>>> suggested a
>>>>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
>>>>>>> high
>>>>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Buy a Boa? :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, a boa contractor.
>>>>
>>>> And if that doesn't work, Python it.
>>>
>>> You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
>>> termites.
>>
>>
>>Better yet, Carpenter Ants.
>>
>
>How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this- problem?
Mandibularly, my dear Watson.
--
I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study
mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and
philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation,
commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to
study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and
porcelain.
-- John Adams
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:51:35 -0500, Upscale <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 06:47:26 -0800, Larry Jaques saw and angle drill.
>One joist at a time.
>>>>
>>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested a
>>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
>>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
>
>How about a flex shaft driving the bit?
The half inch water pipe was almost too flexible.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:17:04 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers.
>----------------------------------
>"David Nebenzahl" wrote:
>
>> I wonder if you really read the OP's post. Otherwise, the only way
>> he'd be able to use your suggestion would be if he could scrunch his
>> body down to fit in a 7-1/2" high space between a concrete slab and
>> the decking. Quite a trick, that.
>-----------------------------------
>
>Depends how you interept thev above phrase:
>
>" I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
> the one side."
>
>I interept that to mean he has access to one side such as floor joists
>in a house with a basement.
>
>Lew
>
>
how about where I stated "They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable
The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
1/2" (you read that right) plywood..
I have access to only one side of ONE joist.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:09:39 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>>plywood!
>>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>>
>>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>>> With no damage to the structure.
>>
>>
>>Your Original Post:
>>
>>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>>
>>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
>>Carpet there?
> No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
>proposition, even without carpet.
Two strips from a piece of 3/4" ply = 1.5" thick ply, about $20 here.
Your billdrit cost you more than that.
--
Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to
make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done,
whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be
learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably
the last lesson that he learns thoroughly.
-- Thomas H. Huxley
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:08:42 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>
>>>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>
>>>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>>
>>>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>with couplers it should be handleable?
>>
>> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>
>
>Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
Got a midget to go with the drill? Deck is 16 inches from the floor,
joists are 16 inches high. No access from the sides.
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 05:44:03 GMT, Al <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, clare wrote:
>
>> I've got myself into a situation -
>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from the
>> one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable across
>> to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>
>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it needs
>> to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----. I tried a speed-bore type
>> spade bit, but it has a bad habit of "catching" just as it breaks
>> through - putting a severe strain on the connection between the bit and
>> the extension.
>>
>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>
>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I might
>> need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft welded
>> into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length with
>> couplers it should be handleable?
>
>used to work in the pile driving business, had to bolt piles together for
>breakwaters, welded the 1" bits onto 4-5' rods. 1 person would hold the
>centre of the rod to keep the wobble down. will take some work to keep
>the holes lined up straight because of the spaces between the joists will
>allow the bits to drop.
dropped about 3 inches in 12 feet.
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 09:12:26 -0800, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:20:38 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
>scrawled the following:
>
>>On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
>>>>>plywood!
>>>> You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
>>>> the plywood and the joists?????..
>>>>
>>>> It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
>>>> With no damage to the structure.
>>>
>>>
>>>Your Original Post:
>>>
>>>[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
>>>
>>>See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
>>>Carpet there?
>> I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
>>giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.
>>
>>No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
>>OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
>>would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
>>pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
>>sort.
>> (I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
>>giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)
>>
>>Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
>>damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.
>>
>>NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
>>also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
>>found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
>>The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
>>requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
>>layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
>>or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.
>
>OK, the final question is: Why did you even ask for help?
>
>Sign me "Stunned at his reaction and attitude" <blink, blink, shrug>
I just asked which kind of bit would require the least amount of
power, making it the easiest to do the job.
Sorry you don't like my attitude, but I wasn't asking how to do the
job. I was just asking what tool to use.
It had already been decided for me that the job needed to be done
without tearing up the decking, and I can't help it if some people
cannot read or grasp the reality of what was written. I though I had
explained the setup adequately in clear enough language - I guess,
from the replies, I was wrong.
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 06:47:26 -0800, Larry Jaques saw and angle drill.
One joist at a time.
>>>
>>> So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested a
>>> hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
>>> space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
How about a flex shaft driving the bit?
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:10:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Skilsaw, cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
>> adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
>> saved: Humongous amounts.
>
>I'm with you on this one, C-less.
>
>He gets through 4 of the 6 joists, and whatever rig he's using snaps
>somewhere between #3 and #4, with the bit embedded in #5 becuase he's
>hit a knot... Start again.
>
>How many times, and at what cost?
>
>Clare... Don't be stupid. take the easy way.
I did take the easy way.
The dang carpet is worth something like $50 a yard.
The plywood is glued and screwed to the joists. Cannot remove it
without doing significant damage. And remember i it is ONE AND A HALF
INCHES THICK.
I made the tool to do the job and got the job done. Including my time
the cost was just around the hundred bucks (they pay me $35 an hour)
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 01:43:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/12/2010 1:08 AM, LDosser wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've got myself into a situation -
>>>> I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>>>> the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>>>> across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>>>> concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>>>>
>>>> What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>>>> needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>>>> I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>>>> "catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>>>> connection between the bit and the extension.
>>>>
>>>> Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>>>>
>>>> Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>>>> might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>>>> welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>>>> with couplers it should be handleable?
>>>
>>> Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
>>
>>
>> Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
>
>If I understand correctly what he wrote, he doesn't have any access--he
>has to drill the first joist and then drill the second one through the
>hole in the first, and so on. The difficulty seems to be the 12 feet of
>extension--not extension _cord_ but bit extension.
Give the man a medal - HE can read!!!!!
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> I've got myself into a situation -
>I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
>the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
>across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
>concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.
>
>What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
>needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.
>I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
>"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
>connection between the bit and the extension.
>
>Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
>
>Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
>might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
>welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
>with couplers it should be handleable?
Forgot - the hole needs to be 1 1/2 inch diameter
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>RE: Subject
>
>Lesson learned.
>
>Wait until [email protected] has made at least 3 responses to others
>before considering a post.
>
>Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
>problem.
Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?
--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:08:28 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>RE: Subject
>
>After rereading and hopefully understanding the problem, short of
>opening a seam thru that 1-1/2" plywood, as others have suggested, you
>can't get there from here.
>
>Unless.....................
>
>You approach this problem like drilling a well, only horizontally
>which will require significant cost to built all the componet parts.
>
>Opening up a seam will probably less costly.
>
>Back to basics, why is drilling necessary?
>
>What is the purpose?
>
>Lew
>
>
>
Ended up using 3 lengths of 1/2 inch pipe @ $7.50 each, 2 of 1/2 inch
pipe couplings @ $1.24 each, 2 of 1/2 to 3/8 reducers @ $1.35 each,
and 2 of 1/2 to 3/8 NPT bushings @ $0.89 each, plus a $16? 12 inch
extension bit (7/16" hex both ends).
Half an hour of labour welding two halves of the extension int the
pipe bushings and the extension was done.
Total cost less than $50.
Rented a 450 RPM drill and a 1 1/2" forstner bit for $14 for a half
day - so total outlay still under $65.
Half an hour to set up and drill the first set of holes and cut an
access hole in the floor where the cables will come out, and just over
10 minutes to drill the second set of holes.
Labour included still under a hundred to get the job done. The boss is
happy.