Hi All,
In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
to using them...
TIA,
irax.
George M. Kazaka wrote:
> Tapering legs on the table saw is sort of dangerous
That really depends on the setup you use.
The taper jig I posted in an earlier message (from ShopNotes) is
very safe to use. Clamp in the workpeice and slide the sled
past the blade...nothin' to it!
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>Hi All,
>
heya
snip
>Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
>on table saws that can be built myself?
snip
Pics of mine are up on ABPW
Traves
The instructor did demonstrate that, and also mentioned that
getting all 4 legs exactly the same would require a lot of skill.
The table saw seemed the right way to go, if a suitable jig was
available...
Thanks for all the responses!
irax.
Lazarus Long wrote:
> It's also possible to taper on jointer.
>
> On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
>on table saws that can be built myself?
I avoid adjustables. It's easier to make jigs up as you need them,
they only take a few minutes. I was making a regular job today
(Stickley wastepaper baskets) and the stock wasn't my usual size, so I
just made up a new jig for this one-off size. A plank of MDF, and a
few narrow strips screwed down as stops.
Assuming you're making a symmetrical taper, then make the jig double
sided, so that one side does the first taper (opposite side still
square) and the other side does the final taper (opposite side was
already tapered).
For safety, just buy a couple of toggle clamps and screw them to the
jig. Use them to hold the workpiece in place, not your fingers.
Then fasten a handle to the jig. Many of my tablesaw jigs use an
interchangeable handle, just to save effort making them. I only need
to drill a couple of holes and put in a couple of M6 threaded inserts,
then the long plywood handle bolts down with roofing bolts. It also
means that a double sided jig can have a reversible handle.
>He considered the
>aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
>would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
It's not the best thing to do to a sawblade, but hitting aluminium
isn't huge problem. Steel would be bad, but aluminium is nearly always
just noisy.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Iraxl Enb <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi All,
>
> In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
> make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
> us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
> then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
> table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
> legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
>
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
> aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
> would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
>
> DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
> to using them...
>
> TIA,
> irax.
A Google search on "taper jig" yielded:
http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/5276/shop/page40.html
http://home.att.net/~waterfront-woods/Projects/taperjig.htm
http://www.bobsplans.com/FreeJigPlans/TaperJig/TaperJig.htm
I have tapered a boatload of legs using a $20 aluminum tapering jig without
mishap ... but it is a nerve wracking job and I keep thinking I'll build a
good jig one of these days. Went so far as to purchase/download the plans
for one recently:
http://www.plansnow.com/taperjig.html
This one appears versatile since you could cut panels on it also. I have the
plans, perused them, but haven't built it yet ... give it a look.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Iraxl Enb" wrote in message
>
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
> aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
> would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
George M. Kazaka wrote:
> Chris You didn't read my post thoroughly,
I read it twice, actually. You started with a blanket statement:
"Tapering legs on the table saw is sort of dangerous"
and then gave an example that might very well be dangerous - since you
were clearly exceeding the intended limits of the tools (e.g. working with
no blade insert!!!)
I just wanted to make sure that future readers don't take your blanket
statement as truth...since tapering (in general) is NOT dangerous.
Your method certainly sounds like it is.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Personally, I use my jointer instead of the table saw, does a nice job
and feels a lot safer to me. Never tried one of those fancy store
bought jigs, but I have made simple sleds for small pieces. Bottom of
1/4 hardboard fence of some pine. Added two clamps to hold the board
worked fine. When I was done I just disposed of it.
Iraxl Enb <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi All,
>
> In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
> make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
> us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
> then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
> table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
> legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
>
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
> aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
> would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
>
> DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
> to using them...
>
> TIA,
> irax.
"Iraxl Enb" writes:
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself?
Check out the New Yankee Workshop.
Norm built one that is part of a collection of several shop jigs.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
I believe last months Wood magazine had designs for a tapering jig.
"Iraxl Enb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
: Hi All,
:
: In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
: make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
: us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
: then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
: table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
: legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
:
: Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
: on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
: aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
: would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
:
: DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
: to using them...
:
: TIA,
: irax.
:
Chris You didn't read my post thoroughly,
Your sled is really no big deal been doing that stuff for years.
Don't need a sled to do it, a little block of wood and a elongated fence.
try doing one 76" Long almost 4" square a 12" blade in a 10" saw, no blade
insert.
Saw needs to be modified to get the 12" blade to fit.
Trust me you need to be optimum concentration.
A unisaw will give you 3" with a full 10" blade, the 12" blade gives you a
4" cut.
therefore you do not have the luxury of a sled board even at 1/4"
If my memory serves me right I was only getting 3-7/8" from the blade, so I
took my stock down to 3-3/4"
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> George M. Kazaka wrote:
> > Tapering legs on the table saw is sort of dangerous
>
> That really depends on the setup you use.
>
> The taper jig I posted in an earlier message (from ShopNotes) is
> very safe to use. Clamp in the workpeice and slide the sled
> past the blade...nothin' to it!
>
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>
"Iraxl Enb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
> make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
> us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
> then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
> table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
> legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
>
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
> aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
> would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
>
> DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
> to using them...
>
> TIA,
> irax.
>
I make a template of the leg that I use to mark the leg on the blank. I
then cut it on the band saw and clean up with a hand plane. It think that
it is much safer, and a lot more fun.
Bob McBreen
Tapering legs on the table saw is sort of dangerous
I once had to do some bed posts almost 4" Square about 76" long
the taper ran about 48"
I put a 12" Blade on a 10" Unisaw after modifying the unisaw and made a sled
type Jig to run them thru.
Not for the timid to try.
"HOWEVER"
If I had to do it again I would make a jig and do it with a router
And this would be the safest, more accurate and easiest way to do them
George
"Iraxl Enb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
> make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
> us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
> then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
> table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
> legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
>
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
> aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
> would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
>
> DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
> to using them...
>
> TIA,
> irax.
>
In article <[email protected]>, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
>make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
>us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
>then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
>table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
>legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
He's right. I'd hate tapering legs, too, if that was the only way I knew how.
>
>Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
>on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
>aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
>would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
The July '03 issue of Wood Magazine has a plan for a bandsaw taper jig, that's
easily adaptable to use on a table saw. There's a picture of it at
http://woodstore.woodmall.com/womais1ju20.html
The October '03 issue has a plan for a taper jig specifically designed for the
table saw. I can't locate my copy right now, but IIRC it's pretty similar.
The book Table Saw Magic, by Jim Tolpin, also shows how to build one.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Iraxl Enb wrote:
> Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs on
> table saws that can be built myself? He considered the aluminum
> tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what would happen if
> any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
Here's the one I use:
http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/taperSled.html
I've used it on _very_ small pieces and consider it very safe.
You might need a longer sled, depending the the length of the
legs you need.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Traves W. Coppock <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
> Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>
> >Hi All,
> >
> heya
>
> snip
>
> >Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
> >on table saws that can be built myself?
>
> snip
>
> Pics of mine are up on ABPW
>
> Traves
It's easier ad faster to make tapered legs on the jointer.
1. Establish the length of the taper on the leg
2. Draw a line where the cut would be.
3. Divide the line in half.
4. Measure the distance from the side of the leg to the line
at the
halfway mark.
5. Set the jointer depth of cut to this measurement.
6. Run the leg in to the half way line from the bottom.
7. Turn the leg around and hold the bottom of the leg do a
wheelie or
a kick up and run it thru the jointer.
8. Legs are tapered and jointer in 1/4 the time.
John
It's also possible to taper on jointer.
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>In the woodworking class that I am taking, the project I want to
>make calls for tapering leds on a table. The instructor showed
>us how to make one, by making a cradle with a piece of plywood,
>then holding the leg stock in the cradle and passing through a
>table saw, all the while commenting on how he hated tapering
>legs, and how dangerous the method he was using was.
>
>Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
>on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
>aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
>would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
>
>DAGS, but could not find any plans to such jigs, just references
>to using them...
>
>TIA,
>irax.
I first saw the jointer method describe in FWW for a pencil post bed
designed by Christian Becksvoort. The method is very straighforward.
I tapered both ends of the four posts, and then further applied
tapering to the edges to make an octagonal crossection.
All four posts are equal.
I think Woodsmith has described this as well.
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 14:16:16 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The instructor did demonstrate that, and also mentioned that
>getting all 4 legs exactly the same would require a lot of skill.
> The table saw seemed the right way to go, if a suitable jig was
>available...
>
>Thanks for all the responses!
>
>irax.
>
>
>Lazarus Long wrote:
>> It's also possible to taper on jointer.
>>
>> On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:55:31 -0500, Iraxl Enb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Any pointers here on some easy adjustable jigs for tapering legs
>on table saws that can be built myself? He considered the
>aluminum tapering jigs as even more dangerous, considering what
>would happen if any of the metal got stuck in the blade etc.
Why?
I've accidentally hit aluminum jigs with carbide blades, and aside
from a change in the saw noise, nothing irregular happens.
I didn't even know I'd hit one jig, until I took it off the table.
<G>
I've been known to stick some carpet tape on tapering jigs to help me
hold the stock in place.
Barry