I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press. I have
had it for 30 years. I do not use it as much as I did in the past although
I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a new DP table that I
attached to the DP recently and found that I am actually using the drill
press more. I found that using adjustable clamps and a straight piece of
wood as a fence was way more trouble than my current set up. I am thinking
with more convenient and time saving features I may use my/a DP for more
than just drilling 35 mm holes in cabinet doors.
For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster, still
faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. Translation, 700,
1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. First off 700 rpm is too fast for 75% of my
Forstner bits. 4700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so badly that drilling at that
speed is not an option, I think that is a speed best used with a cotton
buffing wheel. Actually most Forstner bits over 1" in diameter should be
spinning at around 250 rpm for best results and longevity. My Rockwell has
a manual table height adjustment. I really like the clamping levers on the
DP, they are heavy and comfortable however once you loosen them you need to
be ready for the table to drop. This can be a real problem if you need to
raise the table a very short distance, it always ends up dropping the table
a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth while lifting up, and finally
clamping it in place and checking for proper height again. If the table
fence was in a particular location it now needs to be repositioned because
of the wiggling back and forth. My Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat
washer to limit down travel of the quill. For the height nuts to stay in
place I have to tighten them against each other with a pair of pliers, they
tend to work loose and do that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand
tighten them. That ain't right! My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill travel.
This simply is not enough. I find that because of that limited travel I
have to readjust table height more often than not. Because of the limited
quill travel the table has to be closer to the chuck and again more often
than not the end of the lever used to feed the quill ends up hitting the
table and then I have to readjust the table. My Rockwell being a bench top
variety limits the size of stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of a
table leg would be out of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. My
Rockwell has only "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, No Tilt.
With a radial DP you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the motor and
head stock. Doing this however usually requires the readjustment of the
table and you lose drilling depth more and more the farther away you get
from the 90 degree setting. Because my Rockwell is a radial design it can
drill to the center of a 36" wide panel. This is one very nice feature but
I never use it. I basically always keep the location of the chuck about 8"
out. My Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". There is no "easy" way to
loosen the belt. Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan and
carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. I believe
that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor model. These
actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style DP. Front to back
my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall on its dedicated steel and
mobile stand.
So here are the features I am interested in.
1. Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or below 250
rpm. Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I have used the
Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and it was very noisy. I
have also noticed that every variable speed DP that I have looked into has a
low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I want.
2. An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps the push
button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. I hate spinning 2 nuts up
to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
3. Longer quill travel, I am thinking "at least" close to 5" or more.
4. Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a sure thing
with most any model these days.
5. Tilt table, most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt forward. I
am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
6. Keyless Chuck? the Powermatic I used has one however I did not install
or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be better. I wonder
if it would be more difficult to use as all that I have seen require 2 hands
to tighten and keeping the bit in place "might be a problem". Very minimum
I would want a chuck with a user friendly key.
7. Laser? I really have no problem with locating "exactly where I want to
drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a bit more
difficult. Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
8. Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? Is
vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do either of
the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
9. Brand? Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it is
variable speed and about $950. Craftsman? I know, but it may be
manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. The Craftsman
does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive floor models. That
may be telling me something right there. Jet? Not enough quill travel.
Steel City? This is the brand that got my attention and interest in looking
into an upgrade. Delta? The latest 17" version seems to have it all except
for the keyless chuck. IIRC it has regular V belts and the table that tilts
left, right, and forward. Laguna? Oddly, very competitively priced but
appears to be made in the same factories as the other brands, but only had a
3.5" quill travel. Grizzly? IIRC limited quill travel.
Rikon? I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from the
18" BS that I briefly owned. Factory help was not beneficial in solving
"my"
problems.
Any suggestions? What to look for, look out for?
Thanks.
On Apr 16, 11:06=A0am, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
A great post on drill press use and info, Lee. Good stuff, then I got
to this:
> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. =A0
I heard the cymbal crash, the ba-da-bump!, and all I needed was the
"HIYO" from Ed McMahon.
Here till the end of the week?
;^)
Robert
"Robatoy" wrote
This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in place.
http://www.general.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
====================================
Is that a misprint or mistake? According to the listed specs, it only has a
spindle travel of 3/4"! That would be almost useless. It has got to be a
mistake of some kind. Or an incredibley specialized drill press.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press. I
> have had it for 30 years. I do not use it as much as I did in the past
> although I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a new DP table
> that I attached to the DP recently and found that I am actually using the
> drill press more. I found that using adjustable clamps and a straight
> piece of wood as a fence was way more trouble than my current set up. I
> am thinking with more convenient and time saving features I may use my/a
> DP for more than just drilling 35 mm holes in cabinet doors.
>
> For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster, still
> faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. Translation, 700,
> 1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. First off 700 rpm is too fast for 75% of my
> Forstner bits. 4700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so badly that drilling at
> that speed is not an option, I think that is a speed best used with a
> cotton buffing wheel. Actually most Forstner bits over 1" in diameter
> should be spinning at around 250 rpm for best results and longevity. My
> Rockwell has a manual table height adjustment. I really like the clamping
> levers on the DP, they are heavy and comfortable however once you loosen
> them you need to be ready for the table to drop. This can be a real
> problem if you need to raise the table a very short distance, it always
> ends up dropping the table a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth while
> lifting up, and finally clamping it in place and checking for proper
> height again. If the table fence was in a particular location it now
> needs to be repositioned because of the wiggling back and forth. My
> Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel of
> the quill. For the height nuts to stay in place I have to tighten them
> against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work loose and do
> that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten them. That ain't
> right! My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill travel. This simply is not enough.
> I find that because of that limited travel I have to readjust table height
> more often than not. Because of the limited quill travel the table has to
> be closer to the chuck and again more often than not the end of the lever
> used to feed the quill ends up hitting the table and then I have to
> readjust the table. My Rockwell being a bench top variety limits the size
> of stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of a table leg would be out
> of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. My Rockwell has only
> "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, No Tilt. With a radial DP
> you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the motor and head stock.
> Doing this however usually requires the readjustment of the table and you
> lose drilling depth more and more the farther away you get from the 90
> degree setting. Because my Rockwell is a radial design it can drill to
> the center of a 36" wide panel. This is one very nice feature but I never
> use it. I basically always keep the location of the chuck about 8" out.
> My Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
> consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". There is no "easy" way to
> loosen the belt. Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan and
> carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
>
> Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. I believe
> that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor model. These
> actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style DP. Front to back
> my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall on its dedicated steel
> and mobile stand.
> So here are the features I am interested in.
>
> 1. Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or below 250
> rpm. Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I have used the
> Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and it was very noisy.
> I have also noticed that every variable speed DP that I have looked into
> has a low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I want.
> 2. An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps the
> push button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. I hate spinning 2
> nuts up to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
> 3. Longer quill travel, I am thinking "at least" close to 5" or more.
> 4. Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a sure
> thing with most any model these days.
> 5. Tilt table, most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt forward.
> I am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
> 6. Keyless Chuck? the Powermatic I used has one however I did not
> install or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be better.
> I wonder if it would be more difficult to use as all that I have seen
> require 2 hands to tighten and keeping the bit in place "might be a
> problem". Very minimum I would want a chuck with a user friendly key.
> 7. Laser? I really have no problem with locating "exactly where I want
> to drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a bit more
> difficult. Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
> 8. Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? Is
> vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do either of
> the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
> 9. Brand? Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it is
> variable speed and about $950. Craftsman? I know, but it may be
> manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. The
> Craftsman does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive floor
> models. That may be telling me something right there. Jet? Not enough
> quill travel. Steel City? This is the brand that got my attention and
> interest in looking into an upgrade. Delta? The latest 17" version seems
> to have it all except for the keyless chuck. IIRC it has regular V belts
> and the table that tilts left, right, and forward. Laguna? Oddly, very
> competitively priced but appears to be made in the same factories as the
> other brands, but only had a 3.5" quill travel. Grizzly? IIRC limited
> quill travel.
> Rikon? I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from the
> 18" BS that I briefly owned. Factory help was not beneficial in solving
> "my"
> problems.
>
> Any suggestions? What to look for, look out for?
>
Gee Leon, you think they make a drill press on this planet that meets your
specifications?
Just kidding. You do have a long list of requirements. I will just comment
on a couple things I know about drill presses. I have used different drill
presses for over 35 years. Probably equal woodworking and metal working.
One of the big problems I had with many drill presses was that they did not
have a slow enough speed for me to use a drill bit of any size on metal. So
I sought out bigger drill presses and more speeds. After trying different
brands, I settled on Grizzly and bought several of their drill presses both
for myself and others. Nothing fancy. Just big enough to do the job, enough
speeds and reasonably priced.
The Grizzly G7947 and the G7948 both have 4 - 3/4" spindle travel. Some of
their bigger units have 5" plus spindle travel.
Here are my drill press tips.
1. Always buy a floor model.
2. Always buy a minimum of a 17" model. Bigger is better.
3. Never buy less than 12 speeds.
4. Get the biggest table you can. This allows you to bolt on specialized
tables and jigs more easily.
5. Always bolt the drill press to a peice of plywood or an extended base.
They will always tip over at the most inopportune time. And often with
deadly safety issues.
6. Build specialized jigs and tables for your drill preses. This greatly
increases production and safety.
7. If you must install a mobile base, install it on the extended base.
Drill presses on wheels are a disaster waiting to happen. They tip so
easily.
8. Install good lighting to the drill press. Most of them have lights, but
the need more. The surface area should be well lit for accuracy and safety
reasons.
9. Always have a small cart, bench or whatever handy and close to put your
tools, measuring devices, etc. Anything loose on a drill press table can
easily become a deadly projectile. Be safe.
I should mention that when drilling metal, I often had to drill holes in
subassemblies. This meant drilling heights would vary up to three feet. Our
way of doing this was to build wood jigs that held the metal to the proper
height. It took a little work to set up the initial hole. But the others
followed quickly with the change of the drilling platform that swapped out
and in easily.
I have no idea if this would help your situation or not. Just a suggestion.
Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. Good luck on
your search.
Lee Michaels
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Apr 16, 11:06 am, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
A great post on drill press use and info, Lee. Good stuff, then I got
to this:
> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom.
I heard the cymbal crash, the ba-da-bump!, and all I needed was the
"HIYO" from Ed McMahon.
Here till the end of the week?
==============================
Gee thanks Robert. That means a lot coming from you. I wish a had a joke
ready to go, but alas, you caught me sans joke. Ohhhhh, welllll.....
Lee
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f6c530e7-581c-4cca-8088-2bf32b6f3515@k19g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Great "tip" on the adding a bigger plywood base to avoid the tipping
issue.
I watched craigslist for a long time trying to get a 1hp drill press
with the biggest base possible. I felt pretty lucky finding a 20"
Crapsman that had a brand new 1hp motor for $100. Unfortunately the
fricking shaft has some hellacious run out. I suppose the same guy who
fried the motor tweaked the shaft. Oh well, OK for $100. However, I
cringe everytime I walk by the thing and actually tucked it in between
to heavier machines as a "fall back" for when it tips over. I was
thinking I would wedge anchor it down. The engineering of such a small
base seems really stupid. Plywood to the rescue. Smart!
=========================================
Another trick we used ws to install some kind of hardware on the forward
edge of the plywood. Several things will work. We used everything from an
eyebolt to a swivel D ring. We would put some rope through it and pull
everytime we needed to move the drill press. To move it back or sideways,
we just grabbed the support post. But this was often impossible to move it
out from the wall. That is why we added the rope thingy to the front of the
plywood.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Here are my drill press tips.
>>
>> 1. Always buy a floor model..
>
> Any particular reason? I often see floor models "Loosely Assembled" and
> or assembled wrong. I was also considering the fact that assembled may be
> harder to transport from the store.
>
> A local dealer that has been in business 50 + years and offers free
> assembly and adjustment or free delivery with in 50 miles.
>
Ahhhhh...., Leon has a background in retail!! I shoulda known that.
What is the term I am looking for here? Ya know, one that sits on the
floor. Or should I say STANDS on a floor. Ya know, the tall one. NOT a
bench model. They usually come unassembled and you have to put them
together.
An example is the Grizzly G7948 is described in the catalog as a G7948 12
Speed 20" Floor Drill Press,
If you buy from a distant location, you will get everything in boxes anyway.
You do the assembly.
"Swingman" wrote
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. Good luck
>> on your search.
>
> Excellent post, Lee! And duly saved in the archives. I already have a DP,
> but, if Leon's Rockwell suddenly shows up for sale ....
>
Damn! Compliments from both Robert and Karl. That doesn't happen very
often.
Everything is OK. Everything is alright.
<Peering out my office window in a fit of paranoia>
Thanks Karl.
"HeyBub" wrote
>
> Here's a 16-speed (220-3600 rpm), 3/4 hp, floor drill press for $190.
> You'll probably have to provide your own keyless chuck.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43378
>
I just can't picture the harbor freight drill press next to the Laguna band
saw or the Festools. It just wouldn't MATCH, you know. :-)
On Apr 16, 10:07=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Apr 16, 12:39=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > A billion? *wringing my hands in wrath-like fashion...*
>
> > Let's see now. 1 per second? That would be 31 years of continuous
> > drilling.
>
> I am dying laughing over here. =A0Grinning from ear to ear.
>
> Been sitting on that one a bit, have ya old pal?
>
> Could I say in my defense that they work really fast?
>
> =A0 =3D^0
>
> HIYO!!
>
> Robert - *still chuckling*
We seemed to have reached an understanding..LOL
> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
> brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc. I had a
> week moment at the wood show 2 weeks ago and the Snake Oil peddler reeled
> me in. I am sure you have heard od BAD DOG drill bits, I bought'em and
> took'em back the next day.
Leon,
Believe it or not, I generally stay out of the discussions on tooling
because it is such a varied and diverse subject... I can sell the machines
but don't know squat about tooling per say... McMaster Carr is my friend.
I'd ask in rec.crafts.metalworking for the best answers...
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
V8013-R
On Apr 16, 7:18=A0pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> "HeyBub" =A0wrote
>
> > Here's a 16-speed (220-3600 rpm), 3/4 hp, floor drill press for $190.
> > You'll probably have to provide your own keyless chuck.
>
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3D43378
>
> I just can't picture the harbor freight drill press next to the Laguna ba=
nd
> saw or the Festools. =A0It just wouldn't MATCH, you know. :-)
*shuddering at the thought*
On Apr 16, 12:39=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> A billion? *wringing my hands in wrath-like fashion...*
>
> Let's see now. 1 per second? That would be 31 years of continuous
> drilling.
I am dying laughing over here. Grinning from ear to ear.
Been sitting on that one a bit, have ya old pal?
Could I say in my defense that they work really fast?
=3D^0
HIYO!!
Robert - *still chuckling*
Leon wrote:
> So far and similar to your first suggestion I am looking closely at the
> Delta 17-959L, $579 locally.
Mine is a Delta 17-965 and it has a quill stroke of 4-7/8 inches, FWIW.
You're welcome to take a closer look at it for comparison to the "L".
BTW, I'm back in town if you want to go to Circle Saw, as I need some
wood screws. Call me.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Apr 16, 12:23=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Apr 16, 11:06=A0am, "Lee Michaels"
>
> <leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
>
> A great post on drill press use and info, Lee. =A0Good stuff, then I got
> to this:
>
> > Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. =A0
>
> I heard the cymbal crash, the ba-da-bump!, and all I needed was the
> "HIYO" from Ed McMahon.
>
> Here till the end of the week?
>
> =A0 ;^)
>
> Robert
Try the veal, don't forget to tip your waitress.........
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:S%[email protected]...
>
> Obviously you need the longer drill bits for the extra quill travel to do
> you any good... They aren't that tough to find.
>
> I've got a Ridgid DP15000 that I bought about 15 years ago. It only has a
> 3-1/4" quill travel and I've run into that limit WAY too many times; I've
> been wishing for an upgrade ever since. I agree with Leon; my next drill
> press will most certainly have at least 5" of travel, and that's probably
> my #1 requirement. I've been casually looking at potential replacements
> for probably more than five years now, and after seeing the Delta 20-950
> (20-inch, 1HP, variable speed (200-2500 RPM), 5/8" chuck, 6" of quill
> travel) I don't see how I could settle for anything less...
>
> http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15684
There you go, I am not the only one thinking this way. LOL
I just did notice that the 20-950 does have the 200 rpm as the slowest
speed, which is plenty slow enough for larger Forstner bits. And no
screwing around switching belts around to change speeds.
"Leon" wrote:
> Acutally I have been using cordless and corded drills since the
> early 90's that all have keyless chucks, my Pansaonic was the first.
> I have not had a problem with slippage with any of the keyless
> chucks.
Like a lot of things, it's a matter of size.
1/2" and smaller chucks usually found on hand held drills are great
for keyless chucks.
OTOH, a drill press, bench or floor, will typically have at least a
5/8", more likely 3/4" chuck.
A keyed chuck above 1/2" has a lot going for it., IMHO.
Lew
"Jim in Milwaukee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Found in one of the publications I get:
>
> Replace the stock setup with a 1/2"x20 threaded rod (the quill stop rod on
> a Bridgeport mill) and get 2 Bridgeport-compatible "speed nut" quill stops
> that are available from machine shop supply sources like MCS and ENCO.
> The speed nut's quick release button allows it to slide free of the
> threads for instant repositioning. With 50 marks evenly spaced around the
> nuts circumference, and 20 teeth per inch on the rod, it is precisely
> adjustable to .001".
>
> Hope this is of use.
>
> Jim
Thanks Jim, good to know if I decide to wait to get a new DP. That would
certainly be a "next to do" improvement.
On Apr 17, 9:38=A0am, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Robatoy" =A0wrote
>
> This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in place.http://www.genera=
l.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
> Is that a misprint or mistake? =A0According to the listed specs, it only =
has a
> spindle travel of 3/4"! =A0That would be almost useless. =A0It has got to=
be a
> mistake of some kind. Or an incredibley specialized drill press.
My page says: Chuck size 3/4, spindle travel 4 1/2".
General makes nice stuff. Even their Taiwanese stuff is held to a high
standard.
Leon asked:
> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and
> good brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc.
There was a time, back when they were my customer, I would have said
Cleveland Twist Drill without a moments hestitation.
Today, Cleveland Twist Drill is part of the Kennametal IPG (Industrial
Products Group) family of quality cutting tools and I don't have a
clue.
Lew
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 10:27:01 -0500, Leon wrote:
> So
> far and similar to your first suggestion I am looking closely at the
> Delta 17-959L, $579 locally.
Leon, I was impressed with that one when I worked at Woodcraft. I built
a forward-tilting table for my benchtop DP so it would tilt in both
axes. Delta is the 1st commercial product I've seen with that capability.
But if you have a soft spot for radial, Delta makes one. Rikon makes
two :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e756d84b-6cb2-4471-b1ff-70d1cc9d8bdb@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 16, 10:36 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
>> brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc.
>
> See if this works - it may not work due to the wrap:
>
> http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625551&highlight=drill+bits
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ceffq3
>
> Pretty good discussion there about drill bits and their use by the
> knife making community. Some of those guys drill a billion holes with
> their bits.
> Quite an assortment of folks with an opinion on bits, all the way from
> the casual builder to the registered bladesmith.
>
> Robert
Thank you Robert, just took a quick look and I immediately saw a comment
about "Chicago Latrobe" bits and apparently he is getting pretty good
mileage out of them. Seems every time I pull a bit out of my box it is the
only dull one in the box. I grab the next over sized or under sized bit and
it is fine. Perhaps I should go for the next up or down wrong size more
often.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 10:27:01 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> So
>> far and similar to your first suggestion I am looking closely at the
>> Delta 17-959L, $579 locally.
>
> Leon, I was impressed with that one when I worked at Woodcraft. I built
> a forward-tilting table for my benchtop DP so it would tilt in both
> axes. Delta is the 1st commercial product I've seen with that capability.
I think you are right about the table tilt.
>
> But if you have a soft spot for radial, Delta makes one. Rikon makes
> two :-).
Yeah, it is a nice feature if you need it but I really have not had the need
in 30 years. I got mide as a reward through the GM Maritz program, meeting
sales quotas. I think I would like to use the table tilt feature over the
head tilt feature.
Translation: fucking shaft.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> In all my searching and coming up to speed with what is available today I
> have not yet run across a DP with a "fickeing shaft". What does that do?
> :~)
>
> Today, Cleveland Twist Drill is part of the Kennametal IPG (Industrial
> Products Group) family of quality cutting tools and I don't have a clue.
Kennemetal makes the double angle collet chucks we use on the high volume
machines we sell. Decent product. Mediocre stock levels for the version we
use as we might be the only ues using it. Price is a bit high, but when you
buy a machine like mine, the price of the chuck is almost insignificant
anyhow... Not that I'm high priced, but a $3-5000 set-up outshines a $200
chuck on the invoice.
If the bits ar the same quality as the chucks, they're decent or better.
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
V8013-R
"Joe AutoDrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_BHFl.53691$0%[email protected]...
> Leon,
>
> This will probably only get you started but...
>
> Here are the estimated prices and basic HP ratings of a few:
>
> Delta DP400 or 17-900 (3/4 HP $400)
> Jet JDP-17MF (3/4 HP $550)
> Grizzly #G7944 (3/4 HP $325)
> Grainger #3Z917 (1/2 HP $650)
> Jet JDP-20MF (1-1/2 HP $1100)
> Grizzly #G7948 (1-1/2 HP, $625)
> Grainger #3Z919 (1 HP, $1100)
> Ellis #9400 (2 HP, $2000-3000 - Ask for dealer pricing)
> Grizzly #G0521 [Drill/Tap Machine] (2 HP, 3 Phase, $1250)
>
> One benefit of the G0521 is the fact that you can tap holes without having
> to purchase a tapping head. It has a built in, self reversing spindle
> option.
>
> One of the most important things to know is the horsepower requirement and
> RPM needs for your applications. You can see the following web pages for
> charts to calculate your actual needs in very basic form:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ToolSpeeds
> or
> http://www.multi-drill.com/drill-speed-chart.htm
>
Thank you Joe! I my primary use would be for wood working, the auto tapping
feature is something that I have not really considered or for that matter
even knew existed. I'll try to go with at least 3/4" hp as you suggest.
That is really what I have been looking at, oddly my Rockwell have never
"seemed" to be low on power even with it's 1/3 hp motor. I'm sure twice as
much power would come in handy with the larger bits.
So far and similar to your first suggestion I am looking closely at the
Delta 17-959L, $579 locally.
Thanks again for you expert input and links, I'll check'em out.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> Ahhhhh...., Leon has a background in retail!! I shoulda known that.
Yup, years of in retail management and wholesale.
>
> What is the term I am looking for here? Ya know, one that sits on the
> floor. Or should I say STANDS on a floor. Ya know, the tall one. NOT a
> bench model. They usually come unassembled and you have to put them
> together.
LOL. Yeah, Floor Style! not the one on the floor. LOL DOH!
>
> An example is the Grizzly G7948 is described in the catalog as a G7948 12
> Speed 20" Floor Drill Press,
>
> If you buy from a distant location, you will get everything in boxes
> anyway. You do the assembly.
I have no problem with that, living in Houston I'll probably be able to
support the locals.
Found in one of the publications I get:
Replace the stock setup with a 1/2"x20 threaded rod (the quill stop rod
on a Bridgeport mill) and get 2 Bridgeport-compatible "speed nut" quill
stops that are available from machine shop supply sources like MCS and
ENCO. The speed nut's quick release button allows it to slide free of
the threads for instant repositioning. With 50 marks evenly spaced
around the nuts circumference, and 20 teeth per inch on the rod, it is
precisely adjustable to .001".
Hope this is of use.
Jim
Leon wrote:
>
> 2. An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps the push
> button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. I hate spinning 2 nuts up
> to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: The hund for a replacement drilll press, sorta long
Snip
> Gee Leon, you think they make a drill press on this planet that meets your
> specifications?
3 come close! LOL. I have not see the17" Craftsman up close, I like the
Steel City with the 6" stroke but I like the Delta with it's
multi-directional tilt table.
>
> Just kidding. You do have a long list of requirements. I will just
> comment on a couple things I know about drill presses. I have used
> different drill presses for over 35 years. Probably equal woodworking and
> metal working.
Well I want to up grade. My Rockwell has served me well and continues to
run well. Set up is a B____ thoutgh.
>
> One of the big problems I had with many drill presses was that they did
> not have a slow enough speed for me to use a drill bit of any size on
> metal.
That is what I am finding and expecially on the variable speed models. The
couple that I am focusing on go down to 215 rpm IIRC. I drill a lot of 35
mm holes for Euro hinges and the recomended speed for that sized Forstner
bit is 250 rpm.
So
> I sought out bigger drill presses and more speeds. After trying different
> brands, I settled on Grizzly and bought several of their drill presses
> both for myself and others. Nothing fancy. Just big enough to do the job,
> enough speeds and reasonably priced.
>
> The Grizzly G7947 and the G7948 both have 4 - 3/4" spindle travel. Some
> of their bigger units have 5" plus spindle travel.
I'll look over there again.
>
> Here are my drill press tips.
>
> 1. Always buy a floor model.
>
> 2. Always buy a minimum of a 17" model. Bigger is better.
>
> 3. Never buy less than 12 speeds.
>
> 4. Get the biggest table you can. This allows you to bolt on specialized
> tables and jigs more easily.
>
> 5. Always bolt the drill press to a peice of plywood or an extended base.
> They will always tip over at the most inopportune time. And often with
> deadly safety issues.
>
> 6. Build specialized jigs and tables for your drill preses. This greatly
> increases production and safety.
>
> 7. If you must install a mobile base, install it on the extended base.
> Drill presses on wheels are a disaster waiting to happen. They tip so
> easily.
>
> 8. Install good lighting to the drill press. Most of them have lights, but
> the need more. The surface area should be well lit for accuracy and
> safety reasons.
>
> 9. Always have a small cart, bench or whatever handy and close to put your
> tools, measuring devices, etc. Anything loose on a drill press table can
> easily become a deadly projectile. Be safe.
>
> I should mention that when drilling metal, I often had to drill holes in
> subassemblies. This meant drilling heights would vary up to three feet.
> Our way of doing this was to build wood jigs that held the metal to the
> proper height. It took a little work to set up the initial hole. But the
> others followed quickly with the change of the drilling platform that
> swapped out and in easily.
>
> I have no idea if this would help your situation or not. Just a
> suggestion.
>
> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. Good luck
> on your search.
>
> Lee Michaels
Thank you Lee, I'll keep all of that in consideration.
And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc. I had a week
moment at the wood show 2 weeks ago and the Snake Oil peddler reeled me in.
I am sure you have heard od BAD DOG drill bits, I bought'em and took'em back
the next day.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote
>>
>> Thank you Lee, I'll keep all of that in consideration.
>>
> You are welcome Leon.
>
> Now I am dying to find out which one you buy. Don't keep us in suspense!
>
>
>
When and if I do I'll let Y'all know.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I am seriously thinking about having a yard sale, Drill press, jointer,
> and portable plainer, and a 556 PC Biscuit Cutter I wonder how long they
> will last? LOL
I see you found the jointer and biscuit cutter to be as useful as I have.
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:02:19 -0500, Leon wrote:
>> But if you have a soft spot for radial, Delta makes one. Rikon makes
>> two :-).
>
> Yeah, it is a nice feature if you need it but I really have not had the
> need in 30 years. I got mide as a reward through the GM Maritz program,
> meeting sales quotas. I think I would like to use the table tilt
> feature over the head tilt feature.
The table tilt seems easier to set up, although that's just a guess as
I've never owned a radial. But the tilting head is nice when you're
trying to drill into a big heavy timber. And the sliding arm gives you
more capacity than most ordinary presses. But of course the downside is
flex in that arm.
I've got just an ordinary benchtop, but it was built before benchtops
started getting flimsy. The column is the same as the floor model was,
the manufacturer (Taiwan?) just cut one in half :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Actually the quill travel is the same as mine and the reason I want
>> to upgrade.
>
> If you stop and think about it, the need for quill travel is a
> function of the length of available bits.
>
> Since most bits are in the 6"-8" max length, would expect quill travel
> to be pretty much the same from model to model.
>
> Lew
Obviously you need the longer drill bits for the extra quill travel to
do you any good... They aren't that tough to find.
I've got a Ridgid DP15000 that I bought about 15 years ago. It only has
a 3-1/4" quill travel and I've run into that limit WAY too many times;
I've been wishing for an upgrade ever since. I agree with Leon; my next
drill press will most certainly have at least 5" of travel, and that's
probably my #1 requirement. I've been casually looking at potential
replacements for probably more than five years now, and after seeing the
Delta 20-950 (20-inch, 1HP, variable speed (200-2500 RPM), 5/8" chuck,
6" of quill travel) I don't see how I could settle for anything less...
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15684
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Apr 17, 11:22 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Apr 16, 11:52 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in
> place.http://www.general.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
>
> I have thinking, who have I left out for consideration? DOH! I'll check
> that out.
>
> I am kinda surprised that the Laguna DP models are pretty much middle of
> the road although they do have reasonable pricing.
General has a few drill presses:
http://www.general.ca/pagetitre/ang/drill.html
I looked at all of them on the site, unfortunately no one near me to do
touchy feely review. The 20 " model is nice also and I noticed a NEW
Electronic Variable Speed 17" model.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Actually the quill travel on mine is 3.125"
>
> That's a bench top isn't it?
Yes
>
>> I am looking at almost 5" possibly 6" for a replacement.
>
> Would expect somewhere around 5+"-6+" travel to be std for a floor mount
> these days.
Actually no, Laguna drill presses are less than 4" and many other floor
models are also. You have to make it a point to check that specification
out on every you consider. Actually I have only seen a hand full that are
close to 5" or more.
"Leon" wrote:
> Actually no, Laguna drill presses are less than 4" and many other
> floor models are also. You have to make it a point to check that
> specification out on every you consider. Actually I have only seen
> a hand full that are close to 5" or more.
Interesting, learn something new everyday.
Lew
>
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
snip
FWW did a comparison a year(2-3?) or so ago. Based on that, I bought a
Ridgid and I am very pleased. Helluva deal too. IIRC, it had the
lowest run-out of any of them. They really liked the Delta too, again,
IIRC.
I'll take a look back. I looked at the Ridgid at the show, it has a really
good price and was discounted more at the show, $270 IIRC. And you cannot
beat the warranty. The deal breaker here is that it has a short quill
travel, I really want close to 5" or more. Thanks for the input.
Leon wrote:
> Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel
> of the quill. For the height nuts to stay in place I have to
> tighten
> them against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work
> loose and do that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten
> them.
That's why pliers were invented.
My experience is it is a great depth gage if you use pliers for final
setting.
A 16-speed, 3/4 hp, floor drill press Is pretty basic "jelly bean"
offering.
Uses 3 sheaves and 2 belts to make speed changes.
Never had a problem with vibration on mine.
Make sure you have a gear and rack to lift/lower table.
Make sure quill is equipped with std morse taper (Joe AutoDrill time).
Equip with a removeable machinest vice to insure easy location of
drill bit on work piece.
(Drilling a hole 1/64 off sucks)
IMHO, a drill press is definitely a KISS product.
Have fun.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Acutally I have been using cordless and corded drills since the early
>> 90's that all have keyless chucks, my Pansaonic was the first. I have not
>> had a problem with slippage with any of the keyless chucks.
>
> Like a lot of things, it's a matter of size.
>
> 1/2" and smaller chucks usually found on hand held drills are great for
> keyless chucks.
>
> OTOH, a drill press, bench or floor, will typically have at least a 5/8",
> more likely 3/4" chuck.
>
> A keyed chuck above 1/2" has a lot going for it., IMHO.
>
> Lew
>
>
Ok then, 2 votes NO against the keyless. I'll forget about that. That
takes, thank goodness, Craftsman out of the hunt.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> I am seriously thinking about having a yard sale, Drill press, jointer,
>> and portable plainer, and a 556 PC Biscuit Cutter I wonder how long they
>> will last? LOL
>
> I see you found the jointer and biscuit cutter to be as useful as I have.
The jointer is almost my oldest tool and least used. The 556 biscuit
jointer was my first and I used it to remodel our kitchen 20 years ago. I
still have the 557 but the Domino has pretty much replaced it.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "HeyBub" wrote
>>
>> Here's a 16-speed (220-3600 rpm), 3/4 hp, floor drill press for $190.
>> You'll probably have to provide your own keyless chuck.
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43378
>>
> I just can't picture the harbor freight drill press next to the Laguna
> band saw or the Festools. It just wouldn't MATCH, you know. :-)
>
That Green color is all wrong, it just wouldn't do at all! Actually the
quill travel is the same as mine and the reason I want to upgrade.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an
> affordable and good brand or type of HS drill bit for
> drilling in mild steel, etc. I had a week moment at the
> wood show 2 weeks ago and the Snake Oil peddler reeled me
> in. I am sure you have heard od BAD DOG drill bits, I
> bought'em and took'em back the next day.
>
>
Instead of spending a lot of money on drill bits, buy a decent
quality set and a Drill Doctor. I've got one I've had for about
15 years and haven't bought any drill bits since.
YMMV
Larry
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
>> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. Good luck
>> on your search.
>
> Excellent post, Lee! And duly saved in the archives. I already have a DP,
> but, if Leon's Rockwell suddenly shows up for sale ....
>
> :)
I am seriously thinking about having a yard sale, Drill press, jointer, and
portable plainer, and a 556 PC Biscuit Cutter I wonder how long they will
last? LOL
If you are seriously interested I will send a picture of it and the boat.
;~)
Leon,
This will probably only get you started but...
Here are the estimated prices and basic HP ratings of a few:
Delta DP400 or 17-900 (3/4 HP $400)
Jet JDP-17MF (3/4 HP $550)
Grizzly #G7944 (3/4 HP $325)
Grainger #3Z917 (1/2 HP $650)
Jet JDP-20MF (1-1/2 HP $1100)
Grizzly #G7948 (1-1/2 HP, $625)
Grainger #3Z919 (1 HP, $1100)
Ellis #9400 (2 HP, $2000-3000 - Ask for dealer pricing)
Grizzly #G0521 [Drill/Tap Machine] (2 HP, 3 Phase, $1250)
One benefit of the G0521 is the fact that you can tap holes without having
to purchase a tapping head. It has a built in, self reversing spindle
option.
One of the most important things to know is the horsepower requirement and
RPM needs for your applications. You can see the following web pages for
charts to calculate your actual needs in very basic form:
http://tinyurl.com/ToolSpeeds
or
http://www.multi-drill.com/drill-speed-chart.htm
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
V8013-R
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press. I
> have had it for 30 years. I do not use it as much as I did in the past
> although I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a new DP table
> that I attached to the DP recently and found that I am actually using the
> drill press more. I found that using adjustable clamps and a straight
> piece of wood as a fence was way more trouble than my current set up. I
> am thinking with more convenient and time saving features I may use my/a
> DP for more than just drilling 35 mm holes in cabinet doors.
>
> For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster, still
> faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. Translation, 700,
> 1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. First off 700 rpm is too fast for 75% of my
> Forstner bits. 4700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so badly that drilling at
> that speed is not an option, I think that is a speed best used with a
> cotton buffing wheel. Actually most Forstner bits over 1" in diameter
> should be spinning at around 250 rpm for best results and longevity. My
> Rockwell has a manual table height adjustment. I really like the clamping
> levers on the DP, they are heavy and comfortable however once you loosen
> them you need to be ready for the table to drop. This can be a real
> problem if you need to raise the table a very short distance, it always
> ends up dropping the table a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth while
> lifting up, and finally clamping it in place and checking for proper
> height again. If the table fence was in a particular location it now
> needs to be repositioned because of the wiggling back and forth. My
> Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel of
> the quill. For the height nuts to stay in place I have to tighten them
> against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work loose and do
> that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten them. That ain't
> right! My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill travel. This simply is not enough.
> I find that because of that limited travel I have to readjust table height
> more often than not. Because of the limited quill travel the table has to
> be closer to the chuck and again more often than not the end of the lever
> used to feed the quill ends up hitting the table and then I have to
> readjust the table. My Rockwell being a bench top variety limits the size
> of stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of a table leg would be out
> of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. My Rockwell has only
> "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, No Tilt. With a radial DP
> you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the motor and head stock.
> Doing this however usually requires the readjustment of the table and you
> lose drilling depth more and more the farther away you get from the 90
> degree setting. Because my Rockwell is a radial design it can drill to
> the center of a 36" wide panel. This is one very nice feature but I never
> use it. I basically always keep the location of the chuck about 8" out.
> My Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
> consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". There is no "easy" way to
> loosen the belt. Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan and
> carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
>
> Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. I believe
> that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor model. These
> actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style DP. Front to back
> my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall on its dedicated steel
> and mobile stand.
> So here are the features I am interested in.
>
> 1. Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or below 250
> rpm. Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I have used the
> Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and it was very noisy.
> I have also noticed that every variable speed DP that I have looked into
> has a low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I want.
> 2. An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps the
> push button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. I hate spinning 2
> nuts up to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
> 3. Longer quill travel, I am thinking "at least" close to 5" or more.
> 4. Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a sure
> thing with most any model these days.
> 5. Tilt table, most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt forward.
> I am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
> 6. Keyless Chuck? the Powermatic I used has one however I did not
> install or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be better.
> I wonder if it would be more difficult to use as all that I have seen
> require 2 hands to tighten and keeping the bit in place "might be a
> problem". Very minimum I would want a chuck with a user friendly key.
> 7. Laser? I really have no problem with locating "exactly where I want
> to drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a bit more
> difficult. Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
> 8. Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? Is
> vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do either of
> the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
> 9. Brand? Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it is
> variable speed and about $950. Craftsman? I know, but it may be
> manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. The
> Craftsman does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive floor
> models. That may be telling me something right there. Jet? Not enough
> quill travel. Steel City? This is the brand that got my attention and
> interest in looking into an upgrade. Delta? The latest 17" version seems
> to have it all except for the keyless chuck. IIRC it has regular V belts
> and the table that tilts left, right, and forward. Laguna? Oddly, very
> competitively priced but appears to be made in the same factories as the
> other brands, but only had a 3.5" quill travel. Grizzly? IIRC limited
> quill travel.
> Rikon? I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from the
> 18" BS that I briefly owned. Factory help was not beneficial in solving
> "my"
> problems.
>
> Any suggestions? What to look for, look out for?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
On Apr 16, 10:30=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> =A0 =A0 =A0I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press=
. =A0I have
> had it for 30 years. =A0I do not use it as much as I did in the past alth=
ough
> I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a new DP table that I
> attached to the DP recently and found that I am actually using the drill
> press more. =A0I found that using adjustable clamps and a straight piece =
of
> wood as a fence was way more trouble than my current set up. =A0I am thin=
king
> with more convenient and time saving features I may use my/a DP for more
> than just drilling 35 =A0mm holes in cabinet doors.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster,=
still
> faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. =A0Translation, 70=
0,
> 1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. =A0First off 700 rpm is too fast for 75% of my
> Forstner bits. =A04700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so badly that drilling at=
that
> speed is not an option, I think that is a speed best used with a cotton
> buffing wheel. =A0Actually most Forstner bits over 1" in diameter should =
be
> spinning at around 250 rpm for best results and longevity. =A0My Rockwell=
has
> a manual table height adjustment. =A0I really like the clamping levers on=
the
> DP, they are heavy and comfortable however once you loosen them you need =
to
> be ready for the table to drop. =A0This can be a real problem if you need=
to
> raise the table a very short distance, it always ends up dropping the tab=
le
> a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth while lifting up, and finally
> clamping it in place and checking for proper height again. =A0If the tabl=
e
> fence was in a particular location it now needs to be repositioned becaus=
e
> of the wiggling back and forth. =A0My Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a=
flat
> washer to limit down travel of the quill. =A0For the height nuts to stay =
in
> place I have to tighten them against each other with a pair of pliers, th=
ey
> tend to work loose and do that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand
> tighten them. =A0That ain't right! =A0My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill tra=
vel.
> This simply is not enough. =A0I find that because of that limited travel =
I
> have to readjust table height more often than not. =A0Because of the limi=
ted
> quill travel the table has to be closer to the chuck and again more often
> than not the end of the lever used to feed the quill ends up hitting the
> table and then I have to readjust the table. =A0My Rockwell being a bench=
top
> variety limits the size of stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of =
a
> table leg would be out of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. =
=A0My
> Rockwell has only "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, =A0No T=
ilt.
> With a radial DP you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the motor =
and
> head stock. =A0Doing this however usually requires the readjustment of th=
e
> table and you lose drilling depth more and more the farther away you get
> from the 90 degree setting. =A0Because my Rockwell is a radial design it =
can
> drill to the center of a 36" wide panel. =A0This is one very nice feature=
but
> I never use it. =A0I basically always keep the location of the chuck abou=
t 8"
> out. =A0My Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
> consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". =A0There is no "easy" way t=
o
> loosen the belt. =A0Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan and
> carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. =
=A0I believe
> that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor model. =A0The=
se
> actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style DP. =A0Front to b=
ack
> my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall on its dedicated steel a=
nd
> mobile stand.
> So here are the features I am interested in.
>
> 1. =A0Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or below =
250
> rpm. =A0Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I have used th=
e
> Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and it was very noisy.=
=A0I
> have also noticed that every variable speed DP that I have looked into ha=
s a
> low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I want.
> 2. =A0An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps the =
push
> button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. =A0I hate spinning 2 nuts=
up
> to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
> 3. =A0Longer quill travel, I am thinking =A0"at least" close to 5" or mor=
e.
> 4. =A0Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a sure t=
hing
> with most any model these days.
> 5. =A0Tilt table, =A0most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt forw=
ard. =A0I
> am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
> 6. =A0Keyless Chuck? =A0the Powermatic I used has one however I did not i=
nstall
> or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be better. =A0I wo=
nder
> if it would be more difficult to use as all that I have seen require 2 ha=
nds
> to tighten and keeping the bit in place "might be a problem". =A0Very min=
imum
> I would want a chuck with a user friendly key.
> 7. =A0Laser? =A0I really have no problem with locating "exactly where I w=
ant to
> drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a bit more
> difficult. =A0Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
> 8. =A0Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? =A0I=
s
> vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do either o=
f
> the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
> 9. =A0Brand? =A0Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it is
> variable speed and about $950. =A0Craftsman? =A0I know, but it may be
> manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. =A0The Craft=
sman
> does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive floor models. =
=A0That
> may be telling me something right there. =A0Jet? =A0Not enough quill trav=
el.
> Steel City? =A0This is the brand that got my attention and interest in lo=
oking
> into an upgrade. =A0Delta? =A0The latest 17" version seems to have it all=
except
> for the keyless chuck. =A0IIRC it has regular V belts and the table that =
tilts
> left, right, and forward. =A0Laguna? =A0Oddly, very competitively priced =
but
> appears to be made in the same factories as the other brands, but only ha=
d a
> 3.5" quill travel. =A0 Grizzly? =A0IIRC limited quill travel.
> Rikon? =A0I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from t=
he
> 18" BS that I briefly owned. =A0Factory help was not beneficial in solvin=
g
> "my"
> problems.
>
> Any suggestions? =A0What to look for, look out for?
>
> Thanks.
FWW did a comparison a year(2-3?) or so ago. Based on that, I bought a
Ridgid and I am very pleased. Helluva deal too. IIRC, it had the
lowest run-out of any of them. They really liked the Delta too, again,
IIRC.
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's a 16-speed (220-3600 rpm), 3/4 hp, floor drill press for $190.
> You'll probably have to provide your own keyless chuck.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43378
>
Actually I looked at that one in the store yesterday. It's quill travel is
no longer than mine, there would be no reason to buy new.
Thanks for the effort.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Actually the quill travel is the same as mine and the reason I want to
>> upgrade.
>
> If you stop and think about it, the need for quill travel is a function of
> the length of available bits.
>
> Since most bits are in the 6"-8" max length, would expect quill travel to
> be pretty much the same from model to model.
Actually the quill travel on mine is 3.125" I am looking at almost 5"
possibly 6" for a replacement. Long quill travel means less table
adjustment for me.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f6c530e7-581c-4cca-8088-2bf32b6f3515@k19g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Snip
Crapsman that had a brand new 1hp motor for $100. Unfortunately the
fricking shaft has some hellacious run out.
In all my searching and coming up to speed with what is available today I
have not yet run across a DP with a "fickeing shaft". What does that do?
:~)
On Apr 16, 11:52=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "Leon" wrote:
>
> >> Actually the quill travel on mine is 3.125"
>
> > That's a bench top isn't it?
>
> Yes
>
>
>
> >> I am looking at almost 5" possibly 6" for a replacement.
>
> > Would expect somewhere around 5+"-6+" travel to be std for a floor moun=
t
> > these days.
>
> Actually no, Laguna drill presses are less than 4" and many other floor
> models are also. =A0You have to make it a point to check that specificati=
on
> out on every you consider. =A0Actually I have only seen a hand full that =
are
> close to 5" or more.
This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in place.
http://www.general.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
On Apr 16, 10:36 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
> brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc.
See if this works - it may not work due to the wrap:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625551&highlight=drill+bits
or
http://tinyurl.com/ceffq3
Pretty good discussion there about drill bits and their use by the
knife making community. Some of those guys drill a billion holes with
their bits.
Quite an assortment of folks with an opinion on bits, all the way from
the casual builder to the registered bladesmith.
Robert
On Apr 16, 12:02=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Apr 16, 10:36 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and goo=
d
> > brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc.
>
> See if this works - it may not work due to the wrap:
>
> http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3D625551&highlight=3Dd=
...
>
> =A0 or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ceffq3
>
> Pretty good discussion there about drill bits and their use by the
> knife making community. =A0Some of those guys drill a billion holes with
> their bits.
> Quite an assortment of folks with an opinion on bits, all the way from
> the casual builder to the registered bladesmith.
>
> Robert
A billion? *wringing my hands in wrath-like fashion...*
Let's see now. 1 per second? That would be 31 years of continuous
drilling.
On Apr 17, 11:22=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Apr 16, 11:52 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in place.http://www.genera=
l.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
>
> I have thinking, who have I left out for consideration? =A0DOH! =A0I'll c=
heck
> that out.
>
> I am kinda surprised that the Laguna DP models are =A0pretty much middle =
of
> the road although they do have reasonable pricing.
General has a few drill presses:
http://www.general.ca/pagetitre/ang/drill.html
Great "tip" on the adding a bigger plywood base to avoid the tipping
issue.
I watched craigslist for a long time trying to get a 1hp drill press
with the biggest base possible. I felt pretty lucky finding a 20"
Crapsman that had a brand new 1hp motor for $100. Unfortunately the
fricking shaft has some hellacious run out. I suppose the same guy who
fried the motor tweaked the shaft. Oh well, OK for $100. However, I
cringe everytime I walk by the thing and actually tucked it in between
to heavier machines as a "fall back" for when it tips over. I was
thinking I would wedge anchor it down. The engineering of such a small
base seems really stupid. Plywood to the rescue. Smart!
On Apr 16, 9:06=A0am, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > =A0 =A0 I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press.=
=A0I
> > have had it for 30 years. =A0I do not use it as much as I did in the pa=
st
> > although I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a new DP ta=
ble
> > that I attached to the DP recently and found that I am actually using t=
he
> > drill press more. =A0I found that using adjustable clamps and a straigh=
t
> > piece of wood as a fence was way more trouble than my current set up. =
=A0I
> > am thinking with more convenient and time saving features I may use my/=
a
> > DP for more than just drilling 35 =A0mm holes in cabinet doors.
>
> > =A0 =A0 For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster, =
still
> > faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. =A0Translation, =
700,
> > 1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. =A0First off 700 rpm is too fast for 75% of m=
y
> > Forstner bits. =A04700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so badly that drilling =
at
> > that speed is not an option, I think that is a speed best used with a
> > cotton buffing wheel. =A0Actually most Forstner bits over 1" in diamete=
r
> > should be spinning at around 250 rpm for best results and longevity. =
=A0My
> > Rockwell has a manual table height adjustment. =A0I really like the cla=
mping
> > levers on the DP, they are heavy and comfortable however once you loose=
n
> > them you need to be ready for the table to drop. =A0This can be a real
> > problem if you need to raise the table a very short distance, it always
> > ends up dropping the table a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth whi=
le
> > lifting up, and finally clamping it in place and checking for proper
> > height again. =A0If the table fence was in a particular location it now
> > needs to be repositioned because of the wiggling back and forth. =A0My
> > Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel of
> > the quill. =A0For the height nuts to stay in place I have to tighten th=
em
> > against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work loose and d=
o
> > that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten them. =A0That ai=
n't
> > right! =A0My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill travel. This simply is not en=
ough.
> > I find that because of that limited travel I have to readjust table hei=
ght
> > more often than not. =A0Because of the limited quill travel the table h=
as to
> > be closer to the chuck and again more often than not the end of the lev=
er
> > used to feed the quill ends up hitting the table and then I have to
> > readjust the table. =A0My Rockwell being a bench top variety limits the=
size
> > of stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of a table leg would be o=
ut
> > of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. =A0My Rockwell has on=
ly
> > "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, =A0No Tilt. With a radi=
al DP
> > you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the motor and head stock.
> > Doing this however usually requires the readjustment of the table and y=
ou
> > lose drilling depth more and more the farther away you get from the 90
> > degree setting. =A0Because my Rockwell is a radial design it can drill =
to
> > the center of a 36" wide panel. =A0This is one very nice feature but I =
never
> > use it. =A0I basically always keep the location of the chuck about 8" o=
ut.
> > My Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
> > consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". =A0There is no "easy" way=
to
> > loosen the belt. =A0Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan and
> > carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
>
> > =A0 =A0 Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. =A0=
I believe
> > that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor model. =A0T=
hese
> > actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style DP. =A0Front to=
back
> > my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall on its dedicated steel
> > and mobile stand.
> > So here are the features I am interested in.
>
> > 1. =A0Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or belo=
w 250
> > rpm. =A0Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I have used =
the
> > Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and it was very nois=
y.
> > I have also noticed that every variable speed DP that I have looked int=
o
> > has a low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I want.
> > 2. =A0An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps th=
e
> > push button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. =A0I hate spinning=
2
> > nuts up to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3 item below.
> > 3. =A0Longer quill travel, I am thinking =A0"at least" close to 5" or m=
ore.
> > 4. =A0Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a sure
> > thing with most any model these days.
> > 5. =A0Tilt table, =A0most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt fo=
rward.
> > I am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
> > 6. =A0Keyless Chuck? =A0the Powermatic I used has one however I did not
> > install or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be bette=
r.
> > I wonder if it would be more difficult to use as all that I have seen
> > require 2 hands to tighten and keeping the bit in place "might be a
> > problem". =A0Very minimum I would want a chuck with a user friendly key=
.
> > 7. =A0Laser? =A0I really have no problem with locating "exactly where I=
want
> > to drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a bit mor=
e
> > difficult. =A0Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
> > 8. =A0Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? =
=A0Is
> > vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do either=
of
> > the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
> > 9. =A0Brand? =A0Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it i=
s
> > variable speed and about $950. =A0Craftsman? =A0I know, but it may be
> > manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. =A0The
> > Craftsman does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive floo=
r
> > models. =A0That may be telling me something right there. =A0Jet? =A0Not=
enough
> > quill travel. Steel City? =A0This is the brand that got my attention an=
d
> > interest in looking into an upgrade. =A0Delta? =A0The latest 17" versio=
n seems
> > to have it all except for the keyless chuck. =A0IIRC it has regular V b=
elts
> > and the table that tilts left, right, and forward. =A0Laguna? =A0Oddly,=
very
> > competitively priced but appears to be made in the same factories as th=
e
> > other brands, but only had a 3.5" quill travel. =A0 Grizzly? =A0IIRC li=
mited
> > quill travel.
> > Rikon? =A0I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from=
the
> > 18" BS that I briefly owned. =A0Factory help was not beneficial in solv=
ing
> > "my"
> > problems.
>
> > Any suggestions? =A0What to look for, look out for?
>
> Gee Leon, you think they make a drill press on this planet that meets you=
r
> specifications?
>
> Just kidding. =A0You do have a long list of requirements. =A0I will just =
comment
> on a couple things I know about drill presses. =A0I have used different d=
rill
> presses for over 35 years. =A0Probably equal woodworking and metal workin=
g.
>
> One of the big problems I had with many drill presses was that they did n=
ot
> have a slow enough speed for me to use a drill bit of any size on metal. =
=A0So
> I sought out bigger drill presses and more speeds. =A0After trying differ=
ent
> brands, I settled on Grizzly and bought several of their drill presses bo=
th
> for myself and others. Nothing fancy. Just big enough to do the job, enou=
gh
> speeds and reasonably priced.
>
> The Grizzly G7947 and the G7948 both have 4 - 3/4" spindle travel. =A0Som=
e of
> their bigger units have 5" plus spindle travel.
>
> Here are my drill press tips.
>
> 1. Always buy a floor model.
>
> 2. Always buy a minimum of a 17" model. =A0Bigger is better.
>
> 3. Never buy less than 12 speeds.
>
> 4. Get the biggest table you can. =A0This allows you to bolt on specializ=
ed
> tables and jigs more easily.
>
> 5. Always bolt the drill press to a peice of plywood or an extended base.
> They will always tip over at the most inopportune time. And often with
> deadly safety issues.
>
> 6. Build specialized jigs and tables for your drill preses. =A0This great=
ly
> increases production and safety.
>
> 7. If you must install a mobile base, install it on the extended base.
> Drill presses on wheels are a disaster waiting to happen. They tip so
> easily.
>
> 8. Install good lighting to the drill press. Most of them have lights, bu=
t
> the need more. =A0The surface area should be well lit for accuracy and sa=
fety
> reasons.
>
> 9. Always have a small cart, bench or whatever handy and close to put you=
r
> tools, measuring devices, etc. =A0Anything loose on a drill press table c=
an
> easily become a deadly projectile. Be safe.
>
> I should mention that when drilling metal, I often had to drill holes in
> subassemblies. This meant drilling heights would vary up to three feet. O=
ur
> way of doing this was to build wood jigs that held the metal to the prope=
r
> height. =A0It took a little work to set up the initial hole. But the othe=
rs
> followed quickly with the change of the drilling platform that swapped ou=
t
> and in easily.
>
> I have no idea if this would help your situation or not. Just a suggestio=
n.
>
> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. =A0Good lu=
ck on
> your search.
>
> Lee Michaels- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the Delta and I'm not sure why the
> need for the keyless chuck.
Typically I tighten the chuck so tight that I have difficulty loostening it
up, hense the comment about a user friendly key. Acutally I have been using
cordless and corded drills since the early 90's that all have keyless
chucks, my Pansaonic was the first. I have not had a problem with slippage
with any of the keyless chucks. I herard long ago that keyless more evenly
tightens down and provides a better grip. That comment may have been made
as a compairison to keyed chucks and not using all 3 holes to evenly tighten
the chuck, which I do. The problem is that I only use 1 hole to loosen,
maybe if I gave all 3.....
>
> I would want to be able
> to really crank down on larger bits and
> a keyless chuck ain't up to that task.
>
> The Delta I have is the laser model and even
> that is pretty nice. The table is quite large
> and has removable inserts.
>
> http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14999
>
> 250 - 3000 RPMs
I think I am looking at the one a step above, newly introduced IIRC. It has
a longer quill travel and appears to have a larger base.
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15685
Thanks for the input.
"Joe AutoDrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
>> brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc. I had a
>> week moment at the wood show 2 weeks ago and the Snake Oil peddler reeled
>> me in. I am sure you have heard od BAD DOG drill bits, I bought'em and
>> took'em back the next day.
>
> Leon,
>
> Believe it or not, I generally stay out of the discussions on tooling
> because it is such a varied and diverse subject... I can sell the
> machines but don't know squat about tooling per say... McMaster Carr is
> my friend.
>
> I'd ask in rec.crafts.metalworking for the best answers...
Honest answer Joe, Thank you.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Thank you Robert, just took a quick look and I immediately saw a comment
> about "Chicago Latrobe" bits and apparently he is getting pretty good
> mileage out of them. Seems every time I pull a bit out of my box it is
> the only dull one in the box. I grab the next over sized or under sized
> bit and it is fine. Perhaps I should go for the next up or down wrong
> size more often.
Oh C R A P, I just looked up one of the brands mentioned. A single 7.5
mm bit just over 4.5" long sells for ........ One hundred fifty four
DOLLARS.
"Leon" wrote:
> Actually the quill travel is the same as mine and the reason I want
> to upgrade.
If you stop and think about it, the need for quill travel is a
function of the length of available bits.
Since most bits are in the 6"-8" max length, would expect quill travel
to be pretty much the same from model to model.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Today, Cleveland Twist Drill is part of the Kennametal IPG (Industrial
> Products Group) family of quality cutting tools and I don't have a clue.
>
I've never seen anything but high quality from Kennametal.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon asked:
>
>> And while I have you attention, can you recommend an affordable and good
>> brand or type of HS drill bit for drilling in mild steel, etc.
>
> There was a time, back when they were my customer, I would have said
> Cleveland Twist Drill without a moments hestitation.
>
> Today, Cleveland Twist Drill is part of the Kennametal IPG (Industrial
> Products Group) family of quality cutting tools and I don't have a clue.
>
> Lew
>
I'll check'um out Lew, thanks.
Lee Michaels wrote:
> Well now, I seemed to be all tapped out of drill press wisdom. Good luck on
> your search.
Excellent post, Lee! And duly saved in the archives. I already have a
DP, but, if Leon's Rockwell suddenly shows up for sale ....
:)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Leon" wrote:
> Yeah, I'v been doing the for 30 years I'm tire of that. I am
> looking for features that will encourage me to use the DP rather
> than pull out the corded hand drill. ;!)
If a hand drill gets the job done, you don't NEED no dang drill press.
> Good to know! Regular V Belts or the newer thin ribbed style?
Standard old "V" belts.
Don't forget, the quill is operating at relatively low RPM thus
vibration will be minimal, if any.
Have fun.
Lew
Leon wrote:
> I have a 30 year old Rockwell 36" bench top radial drill press. I have
> had it for 30 years. I do not use it as much as I did in the
> past although I did recently design, build, and post pictures of a
> new DP table that I attached to the DP recently and found that I am
> actually using the drill press more. I found that using adjustable
> clamps and a straight piece of wood as a fence was way more trouble
> than my current set up. I am thinking with more convenient and time
> saving features I may use my/a DP for more than just drilling 35 mm
> holes in cabinet doors.
> For reference, my Rockwell DP has 4 speeds, fast, more faster,
> still faster than more faster, and the more fasterest speed. Translation,
> 700, 1250, 2400, and 4700 rpm. First off 700 rpm is too
> fast for 75% of my Forstner bits. 4700 rpm makes the DP vibrate so
> badly that drilling at that speed is not an option, I think that is a
> speed best used with a cotton buffing wheel. Actually most Forstner
> bits over 1" in diameter should be spinning at around 250 rpm for
> best results and longevity. My Rockwell has a manual table height
> adjustment. I really like the clamping levers on the DP, they are
> heavy and comfortable however once you loosen them you need to be
> ready for the table to drop. This can be a real problem if you need
> to raise the table a very short distance, it always ends up dropping
> the table a bit, then you wiggle it back and forth while lifting up,
> and finally clamping it in place and checking for proper height
> again. If the table fence was in a particular location it now needs
> to be repositioned because of the wiggling back and forth. My
> Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel
> of the quill. For the height nuts to stay in place I have to tighten
> them against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work
> loose and do that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten
> them. That ain't right! My Rockwell has 3.125" of quill travel.
> This simply is not enough. I find that because of that limited
> travel I have to readjust table height more often than not. Because
> of the limited quill travel the table has to be closer to the chuck
> and again more often than not the end of the lever used to feed the
> quill ends up hitting the table and then I have to readjust the
> table. My Rockwell being a bench top variety limits the size of
> stock to be drilled, drilling into the end of a table leg would be
> out of the question, if I ever had a need to do this. My Rockwell
> has only "2" table adjustments, height and side to side, No Tilt.
> With a radial DP you drill at an angle by tilting the top end, the
> motor and head stock. Doing this however usually requires the
> readjustment of the table and you lose drilling depth more and more
> the farther away you get from the 90 degree setting. Because my
> Rockwell is a radial design it can drill to the center of a 36" wide
> panel. This is one very nice feature but I never use it. I
> basically always keep the location of the chuck about 8" out. My
> Rockwell had 4 speeds and changing speeds requires careful
> consideration in the art of "pulley jumping". There is no "easy" way
> to loosen the belt. Pinched fingers are common if you do not plan
> and carefully orchestrate the maneuver.
> Sooooo I think I would enjoy a DP with new/better features. I
> believe that I would like to go with a more traditional DP, a floor
> model. These actually have a smaller foot print then my radial style
> DP. Front to back my DP is around 40" and it stands about 67" tall
> on its dedicated steel and mobile stand.
> So here are the features I am interested in.
>
> 1. Larger variety of speeds and in particular a low speed at or
> below 250 rpm. Variable speed "seems" like a nice feature however I
> have used the Powermatic DP with variable speed on two occasions and
> it was very noisy. I have also noticed that every variable speed DP
> that I have looked into has a low speed of 400 rpm, faster than I
> want. 2. An easier and quicker to adjust quill dept adjustment, perhaps
> the push button and spin variety vs. the two nut design. I hate
> spinning 2 nuts up to 3" and that would be even worse with my next #3
> item below. 3. Longer quill travel, I am thinking "at least" close to 5"
> or
> more. 4. Easier to adjust table height, I think this is going to be a
> sure
> thing with most any model these days.
> 5. Tilt table, most tilt left and right a few do that and tilt
> forward. I am leaning towards the ones that tilt forward also.
> 6. Keyless Chuck? the Powermatic I used has one however I did not
> install or remove the bit so I don't really know if this would be
> better. I wonder if it would be more difficult to use as all that I
> have seen require 2 hands to tighten and keeping the bit in place
> "might be a problem". Very minimum I would want a chuck with a user
> friendly key. 7. Laser? I really have no problem with locating "exactly
> where I
> want to drill a hole however locating a larger Forstner bit can be a
> bit more difficult. Do the lasers afford accuracy within 1/64"?
> 8. Regular V-belt or the newer flat ribbed serpentine style belt? Is
> vibration an issue with the 2 belt 3 pulley configuration and do
> either of the style belts have less tendency of causing vibration?
> 9. Brand? Powermatic is out, only one style is available and it is
> variable speed and about $950. Craftsman? I know, but it may be
> manufactured in the same factory as all the others, perhaps. The
> Craftsman does offer a keyless chuck on all but the most expensive
> floor models. That may be telling me something right there. Jet? Not
> enough quill travel. Steel City? This is the brand that got my
> attention and interest in looking into an upgrade. Delta? The
> latest 17" version seems to have it all except for the keyless chuck.
> IIRC it has regular V belts and the table that tilts left, right, and
> forward. Laguna? Oddly, very competitively priced but appears to be
> made in the same factories as the other brands, but only had a 3.5" quill
> travel. Grizzly? IIRC limited quill travel.
> Rikon? I don't remember but I still have that taste in my mouth from
> the 18" BS that I briefly owned. Factory help was not beneficial in
> solving "my"
> problems.
>
> Any suggestions? What to look for, look out for?
>
> Thanks.
Here's a 16-speed (220-3600 rpm), 3/4 hp, floor drill press for $190. You'll
probably have to provide your own keyless chuck.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43378
I have the Delta and I'm not sure why the
need for the keyless chuck.
I would want to be able
to really crank down on larger bits and
a keyless chuck ain't up to that task.
The Delta I have is the laser model and even
that is pretty nice. The table is quite large
and has removable inserts.
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14999
250 - 3000 RPMs
Leon wrote:
Delta? The latest 17" version seems to have it all except
for the keyless chuck. IIRC it has regular V belts and the table that
tilts
left, right, and forward.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Here are my drill press tips.
>
> 1. Always buy a floor model..
Any particular reason? I often see floor models "Loosely Assembled" and or
assembled wrong. I was also considering the fact that assembled may be
harder to transport from the store.
A local dealer that has been in business 50 + years and offers free assembly
and adjustment or free delivery with in 50 miles.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Leon wrote:
>
>> Rockwell uses 2 nuts separated by a flat washer to limit down travel
>> of the quill. For the height nuts to stay in place I have to tighten
>> them against each other with a pair of pliers, they tend to work
>> loose and do that "Craftsman router thing" if I simply hand tighten
>> them.
>
> That's why pliers were invented.
Uh huh.
> My experience is it is a great depth gage if you use pliers for final
> setting.
Yeah, I'v been doing the for 30 years I'm tire of that. I am looking for
features that will encourage me to use the DP rather than pull out the
corded hand drill. ;!)
>
> A 16-speed, 3/4 hp, floor drill press Is pretty basic "jelly bean"
> offering.
>
> Uses 3 sheaves and 2 belts to make speed changes.
Yeah.
>
> Never had a problem with vibration on mine.
Good to know! Regular V Belts or the newer thin ribbed style?
> Make sure you have a gear and rack to lift/lower table.
Absolutely, one of the reasons to upgrade.
>
> Make sure quill is equipped with std morse taper (Joe AutoDrill time).
Most all I am lookng at are #2 Morris and or #3 Jacobs.
>
> Equip with a removeable machinest vice to insure easy location of drill
> bit on work piece.
Already have that.
>
> (Drilling a hole 1/64 off sucks)
>
> IMHO, a drill press is definitely a KISS product.
>
> Have fun.
Thanks Lew
> Mine is a Delta 17-965 and it has a quill stroke of 4-7/8 inches, FWIW.
> You're welcome to take a closer look at it for comparison to the "L".
LOTS of 17-965's out there too. Not a "rare" model whatever that's worth.
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
V8013-R
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Apr 16, 11:52 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
This one would make any Festool or Laguna look in place.
http://www.general.ca/pagemach/machines/75500a.html
I have thinking, who have I left out for consideration? DOH! I'll check
that out.
I am kinda surprised that the Laguna DP models are pretty much middle of
the road although they do have reasonable pricing.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
>
>> I have no problem with that, living in Houston I'll probably be able to
>> support the locals.
>
> Just for grins have you checked Circle Saw's floor displays?
Actually I have looked at their web site and they are as cheap as any one.
I may go over there tomorrow and have a look.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f06061ad-9581-4d19-b1dd-150d94735dd1@t10g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 16, 12:02 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
A billion? *wringing my hands in wrath-like fashion...*
Let's see now. 1 per second? That would be 31 years of continuous
drilling.
LOL, I think you have a Touché on Robert.