I need to build some sofa tables to wrap around an "L" shaped black leather
sectional. Each leg is about ten feet long, floor to top in the 30"-34"
range, top width 12-15". I'm planning to make them of mahogany, probably
with honed black slate tile inserts in the top.
First of all do any of you have any experience with same and if so, what
size would you suggest for the leg and rail widths? I'm thinking about 2
1/2" - 3", sound about right for visual appearance?
Secondly is building the thing. Several possibilities...
1. Build two tables angled to 45 degrees where they meet, bolt the two
together thru aprons at the angle.
Problem 1: how to handle the legs where they join. Have legs at each
end just before the angle and let the angled portion just hang?
Suggestions? I'm trying to find a way to do it without a bunch of legs all
clustered together.
Problem 2: there will be no appreciable weight on the tables but ten
feet is still a pretty long span. It would be easy to simply add
intermediate legs though. Still, ten foot tables are a bit of a pain to
handle.
2. Break down the ten feet into 2, maybe 3, sections.
Problem 1: same thing with the legs in problem 1 above but also where
the sections meet. Ideally, a parson's table should flow...there should be
symmetry. If I make multiple tables the legs would be double where the
table ends meet. I could make each leg at the junction 1/2 the width but
they would never line up to look like one legwhen the tables were set up.
Maybe a slight bevel where they meet and cut a "V" quirk in the center of
the full width legs?
Another possibility with two tables in each "L" is to make one table with
four legs and the short apron on inside end set back behind the leg, make
the other with no legs where it joins to the first and bolt the two aprons
together.
Other thoughts?
As you can see, most of my concerns are with appearance...I want something
simple with nice clean lines and minimal visible joints; all comments will
be much appreciated.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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> 4. Make each with 6 legs per table, that is a long span.
Settees have 6 legs and they don't look awkward.
If you joined the two tables at 45 degrees, how about having an inside
apron, of one table, extend beyond the angle juncture to the outside
apron of the other table. Only one leg would be required at the
inside apron/angle junction for that inside corner. Does that
description make sense?
Sonny
=A0all comments will
> be much appreciated.
>
Haven't built exactly such but I would approach it like this.
1. Build two separate tables.
2. Make one longer, one shorter and butt the shorter one into the
longer one at the corner.
3. Optionally have some hidden under attachment like a leaf latch if
you are concerned about movement and alignment at the butt.
4. Make each with 6 legs per table, that is a long span.
5. Hold the apron back 3 inches along the long side and 6 inches at
the ends to allow the legs at the butted section to be held back far
enough to look nice.
I think if you did bread board ends it would actually look very nice
at the corner with the bread board on the butted end having grain that
lines up with the other table with a nice visual square at the corner
where the two bread boards meet.
You could even get very stylish and add a bread board like divider in
the top above the middle legs. Just a strange idea that popped into my
head for symmetry.
dadiOH wrote:
Thanks for the thoughts, folks. Some good ones and they are now mulling
around in my mind.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On May 17, 9:49=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need to build some sofa tables to wrap around an "L" shaped black leath=
er
> sectional. =A0Each leg is about ten feet long, floor to top in the 30"-34=
"
> range, top width 12-15". =A0I'm planning to make them of mahogany, probab=
ly
> with honed black slate tile inserts in the top.
>
> First of all do any of you have any experience with same and if so, what
> size would you suggest for the leg and rail widths? =A0I'm thinking about=
2
> 1/2" - 3", sound about right for visual appearance?
>
> Secondly is building the thing. =A0Several possibilities...
>
> 1. Build two tables angled to 45 degrees where they meet, bolt the two
> together thru aprons at the angle.
>
> =A0 =A0 Problem 1: how to handle the legs where they join. =A0Have legs a=
t each
> end just before the angle and let the angled portion just hang?
> Suggestions? =A0I'm trying to find a way to do it without a bunch of legs=
all
> clustered together.
>
> =A0 =A0 Problem 2: there will be no appreciable weight on the tables but =
ten
> feet is still a pretty long span. =A0It would be easy to simply add
> intermediate legs though. =A0Still, ten foot tables are a bit of a pain t=
o
> handle.
>
> 2. =A0Break down the ten feet into 2, maybe 3, sections.
>
> =A0 =A0 Problem 1: same thing with the legs in problem 1 above but also w=
here
> the sections meet. =A0Ideally, a parson's table should flow...there shoul=
d be
> symmetry. =A0If I make multiple tables the legs would be double where the
> table ends meet. =A0I could make each leg at the junction 1/2 the width b=
ut
> they would never line up to look like one legwhen the tables were set up.
> Maybe a slight bevel where they meet and cut a "V" quirk in the center of
> the full width legs?
>
> Another possibility with two tables in each "L" is to make one table with
> four legs and the short apron on inside end set back behind the leg, make
> the other with no legs where it joins to the first and bolt the two apron=
s
> together.
>
> Other thoughts?
>
> As you can see, most of my concerns are with appearance...I want somethin=
g
> simple with nice clean lines and minimal visible joints; =A0all comments =
will
> be much appreciated.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
How about three small tables, with two fillers that hang between them
(sort of like bed rail attachment).
If you used slate on the tables, and mahogany between, it could be an
interesting contrast. Maybe hang the fillers an inch or two down to
make it a bit more dynamic.
It wouldn't hide the joints, but might make them a design element.
just my 2 cents.
Ed
dadiOH wrote:
> I need to build some sofa tables to wrap around an "L" shaped black
> leather sectional. Each leg is about ten feet long, floor to top in
> the 30"-34" range, top width 12-15". I'm planning to make them of
> mahogany, probably with honed black slate tile inserts in the top.
>
> First of all do any of you have any experience with same and if so,
> what size would you suggest for the leg and rail widths? I'm
> thinking about 2 1/2" - 3", sound about right for visual appearance?
>
> Secondly is building the thing. Several possibilities...
>
> 1. Build two tables angled to 45 degrees where they meet, bolt the two
> together thru aprons at the angle.
>
> Problem 1: how to handle the legs where they join. Have legs at
> each end just before the angle and let the angled portion just hang?
> Suggestions? I'm trying to find a way to do it without a bunch of
> legs all clustered together.
>
> Problem 2: there will be no appreciable weight on the tables but
> ten feet is still a pretty long span. It would be easy to simply add
> intermediate legs though. Still, ten foot tables are a bit of a pain
> to handle.
>
> 2. Break down the ten feet into 2, maybe 3, sections.
>
> Problem 1: same thing with the legs in problem 1 above but also
> where the sections meet. Ideally, a parson's table should
> flow...there should be symmetry. If I make multiple tables the legs
> would be double where the table ends meet. I could make each leg at
> the junction 1/2 the width but they would never line up to look like
> one legwhen the tables were set up. Maybe a slight bevel where they
> meet and cut a "V" quirk in the center of the full width legs?
>
> Another possibility with two tables in each "L" is to make one table
> with four legs and the short apron on inside end set back behind the
> leg, make the other with no legs where it joins to the first and bolt
> the two aprons together.
>
> Other thoughts?
>
> As you can see, most of my concerns are with appearance...I want
> something simple with nice clean lines and minimal visible joints; all
> comments will be much appreciated.
here's one about 8' long that i made, including making the glass tiles for
the top. red oak and purpleheart.
http://www.glassartists.org/Gal6621_Whimsies.asp
i'd make 2 that didn't attach, so i could move them around if needed.