Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
I saw it today when I was at HD.
It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. Did I
mention
it's GRANITE topped! (I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive...)
It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
I did notice was the top was already chipped.
Hmmmm....
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:130320092157114265%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> In article <[email protected]>, CW <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> it's GRANITE topped!
>
> WTF?
>
> That makes NO sense whatsoever. Might as well use glass and get the
> destruction over with in a hurry.
Dave, doncha know, granite is taking over. First there was kitchen
countertops. Next table saw tops. Soon all office desks will be granite
topped. It is a conspiracy of the granite cabal.
But not to worry. Robatoy can upgrade you to a new bigger, thicker piece of
granite for your tablesaw. Or even some of that fake countertop material he
sells.
"Leon" wrote
>
> A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd
> say granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the
> precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to
> start with.
>
If a lot of granite topped saws end up out in the market, there will be a
great need to secure jigs to the saw. Seems like an opportunity for
somebody. Perhaps a giant suction device similar to what the glass people
use to move those big panes of glass. In a pinch, you could use the Red
Green approach, good ole duct tape!
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:gphrg4$q03$1
@news.motzarella.org:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes the
>> nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
>>
>
> Coin on edge?
>
>
Mine [3560] passed the coin on edge nickel test at start up. However, it
wouldn't take much more during start up to knock the coin over.
Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as some
writers are incorrigible.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Joe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:8e3538d6-89e5-49dd-805e-8f9ff864b84a@o11g2000yql.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 13, 5:00 pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
> I saw it today when I was at HD.
>
> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. Did I
> mention
> it's GRANITE topped! (I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive...)
> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
>
> Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
> I did notice was the top was already chipped.
>
> Hmmmm....
Some upscale table saws now feature granite, Steel City, maybe?.
Personally, I would rather deal with a bit of rust on my cast iron
than a chip in granite. Maybe an epoxy repair kit should be included
with stone tops. Note that machine shops using granite surface plates
tend to baby them with covers, etc. For sure, granite is a better
choice than aluminum for a table saw and much better than marble for a
tombstone.
Well there ya go.
Buy a granite topped saw, and when you die, recycle it into a tombstone!
Build a coffin to go with it.
On Mar 16, 5:55 pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> If they're
> really a great thing, they'll take over
And then Lee Valley will come out with their new line of granite hand
planes ;)
UHMW hand planes?
-Kevin
In article <[email protected]>, CW <[email protected]>
wrote:
> it's GRANITE topped!
WTF?
That makes NO sense whatsoever. Might as well use glass and get the
destruction over with in a hurry.
On Mar 16, 12:24=A0pm, phorbin <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, boat042-
> [email protected] says...
>
> > Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In normal =
or
> > even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or crack? Just how =
tough
> > or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter of time before the woodwor=
king
> > magazines bombard one with ball bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on=
the
> > fence until then.
>
> Percussion?
>
> In art school I bounced a hammer off a granite tile once 2'x2'x2" and
> the thing cracked as if I'd kung fu'd it.
Granite is not all created equal. You will see a diamond cutter take
his wedge, look at it carefully and give the stone a whack..it splits.
The hardest stuff known is diamond. Yet, there are fissures.
A properly selected chunk of granite will be every bit as strong (and
stronger) than cast iron...cast iron which is also not created equal
can be as brittle as pot metal.
It is all about apples and apples and oranges and oranges.
To make a direct comparison is foolish.
As a prof of mine sometimes did, he'd mark LOI. (Lack Of Information.)
Planes are faster than cars......well....not necessarily.
On Mar 15, 5:38=A0pm, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:21:58 -0500, "MikeWhy"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> >>> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. =A0So why would you give=
up
> >>> all
> >>> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> >>> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
> >>It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
> >>knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a
> >>threaded
> >>hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooli=
ng
> >>on
> >>the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big=
,
> >>heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it.=
I
> >>also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
>
> > Granite might crack, chip or break, wears faster than iron. Vibration
> > can be caused by many factors including case design, material, mass,
> > belt design, tar buildup, rpm, bent shaft, damaged blade, etc.
>
> > My lathe sometimes has a vibration issue. =A0It helps to have a variabl=
e
> > speed motor--sometimes changing the speed eliminates the vibration
> > completely. =A0It helps to have a pair of 800 pound cast iron legs with
> > a shelf full of sandbags.
>
> Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In normal or
> even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or crack? Just how to=
ugh
> or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter of time before the woodworki=
ng
> magazines bombard one with ball bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on t=
he
> fence until then.
Bombardment only makes sense if they do the same to all the saws with
cast iron tops as well.
From what I've been told, small chips fill in easily with epoxy, which
is then sanded flat.
Someone else stated that granite wears faster than cast iron. I don't
know that, but let's assume it does. When was the last time anyone
here saw, or even heard of from a reliable source, a tablesaw top in
hobby use wearing out? It just doesn't happen. Sure, it's possible in
some commercial applications, but even then, I've got my doubts.
On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 17:40:00 -0500, Leon cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...:
>
> Would you expect otherwise? The tool is not built and expected to perform
> when misused, abused, or neglected. They do BTY advertise in some of thir
> ads that routine maintaince is covered under the warranty. I suspect that
> if you neglect to get routine "free" service performed that that would void
> the warranty.
Nope. No requirement for any "routine maintenance".
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Mar 15, 5:38=A0pm, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:21:58 -0500, "MikeWhy"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> >>> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. =A0So why would you give=
up
> >>> all
> >>> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> >>> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
> >>It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
> >>knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a
> >>threaded
> >>hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooli=
ng
> >>on
> >>the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big=
,
> >>heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it.=
I
> >>also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
>
> > Granite might crack, chip or break, wears faster than iron. Vibration
> > can be caused by many factors including case design, material, mass,
> > belt design, tar buildup, rpm, bent shaft, damaged blade, etc.
>
> > My lathe sometimes has a vibration issue. =A0It helps to have a variabl=
e
> > speed motor--sometimes changing the speed eliminates the vibration
> > completely. =A0It helps to have a pair of 800 pound cast iron legs with
> > a shelf full of sandbags.
>
> Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In normal or
> even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or crack? Just how to=
ugh
> or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter of time before the woodworki=
ng
> magazines bombard one with ball bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on t=
he
> fence until then.
Make sure it is a Biesemeier.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid? I saw
> it today when I was at HD.
>
> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. Did I
> mention it's GRANITE topped! (I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad
> impressive...)
> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift. Didn't have
> time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing I did notice
> was the top was already chipped.
>
> Hmmmm....
What do you folks think; did they try to cut costs with the switch away from
C.I. or is it just too sexy for their saw (sorry 'bout that one.)? I don't
know what granite goes for so I could be waaay off. I noticed that the
table is a few inches shorter too. Is that in reference to the limit of
strength of granite? I'm glad that I have my 3650, bum arbor included!
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 16, 5:55 pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> If they're
>> really a great thing, they'll take over
>
> And then Lee Valley will come out with their new line of granite hand
> planes ;)
>
> UHMW hand planes?
>
> -Kevin
Stainless steel, please!
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"Robatoy" wrote
> The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
> but can be found ahead of use.
> Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
> likely damage/pit cast iron as well.
Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen desk'
last year:
http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg
A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear' force to
knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits where the glue
had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly bonded to the wood and
the wood was not damaged, so it certainly appears that the epoxy indeed
weakened the granite?
Decided I didn't want to repeat the process, so I drilled 1/4" holes through
the granite and ply substrate under each foot, applied some construction
adhesive, and ran a wood screw into the wooden feet from underneath. I
figured a mechanical fastener would hopefully preclude a future service
call, and there have been no reported problems since (now that that was said
out loud, just watch the phone ring tomorrow!).
The question: what would *you* have used as an adhesive in the first place
if forced into a similar situation?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mar 15, 5:14=A0pm, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:21:58 -0500, "MikeWhy"
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> >> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. =A0So why would you give =
up all
> >> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> >> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
> >It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
> >knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a thre=
aded
> >hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel toolin=
g on
> >the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big,
> >heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it. =
I
> >also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
>
> Granite might crack, chip or break, wears faster than iron.
The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
but can be found ahead of use.
Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
likely damage/pit cast iron as well.
It will out-wear cast iron by a long shot too. That stuff takes
diamonds to machine.
On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 10:23:50 -0500, Leon wrote:
>> Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust, rather
>> than from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty promises
>> they knowingly won't honor.
>
> I am kinda confused on the issue also. The company in question has a
> pretty good reputation for building good tools and has one of the best
> warranties in the industry. If after making a compairison of features
> and it was a toss up between 3 or 4 brands, the better warranty is the
> one that gets the nod.
Of course, there's always the question of the company still being around
10-20 years from now. That's never a given, but in today's economy....
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:21:58 -0500, "MikeWhy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
>> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. So why would you give up all
>> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
>> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
>It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
>knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a threaded
>hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooling on
>the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big,
>heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it. I
>also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
>
Granite might crack, chip or break, wears faster than iron. Vibration
can be caused by many factors including case design, material, mass,
belt design, tar buildup, rpm, bent shaft, damaged blade, etc.
My lathe sometimes has a vibration issue. It helps to have a variable
speed motor--sometimes changing the speed eliminates the vibration
completely. It helps to have a pair of 800 pound cast iron legs with
a shelf full of sandbags.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Snip
>
> Of course. I'd not meant to be obtuse or contentious. I realize that
> Ridgid is not in business to provide its customers with tools,
> unconditionally,
> for life.
>
> But you seemed a little smitten with this idea of a "Lifetime Waranty"
> as if the whole notion made your heart go pitter-pat and your knees
> all weak. If it did, then who am I to tell you any different? I happen
> to
> be a little more skeptical though. It's a common sense thing. <eg>
>
> What it comes down to for me is that some guy -- someone collecting
> a paycheck from Ridgid -- decides what is and is not "abuse, neglect,
> or purposeful damage". Regardless of how I've treated my TS, it's this
> guy's word against mine.
As is the case with ANY product that you buy. Fortunately "that guy" is
not the end of the line, there are other service centers and others up the
chain of command that can authorize the repair. With a Life Time warranty
that replaces batteries and any part that simply wears out or is found to be
defective you have to admit that the warranty is as good as it gets and is
probably going to protect you as long as you won the product. Having been
in the service business for my entire career I can assure you that if the
work gets turned down the repair shop looses out on revenue. They don't
save money by turning down warranty work. With that understanding, if you
bring in a tool with more than one "unrelated" broken part the tool was
probably abused.
What's the likelihood that, should my motor
> burn out or something else happen 5, 10, or 15 years down the road --
> that he is going to decide that it was due to a "defect in workmanship"?
Worn out is covered also.
> Do you really think he's going to decide in my favor? If your answer is
> other than "Highly unlikely" then I'd love to tell you how to triple your
> money
> in this little ponzi scheme that I've got going... ;)
FWIW, I have a Wayne Dalton Garage Door and Opener. The door has had to
have a spring replaced at my cost as the door was out of warranty as far as
the spring was concerned. No problem, I understood that. Later the motor
on the opener started to go bad several years after the initial warrany
expired. I looked at the warranty I noticed that the motor has a life time
warranty. I called the manufacturer up and describe the problem to the
woman and she UPS'ed me a new motor and appoligised for the inconveinence.
> I bought Ridgid because I read some good stuff about the product I
> wanted. The price was right. And it was available the day I needed
> it. And the warranty? Well it didn't even crack my top 5 reasons for
> buying.
On Mar 15, 12:29=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
> > "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Leon wrote:
> >>>>> For me no. =A0I don't baby my tools.
> >>>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
> >>>> I'm asking.
>
> >>> Absolutely! =A0Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a=
lot
> >>> of vibration. =A0Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as
> >>> aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 =
belt
> >>> set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a s=
et
> >>> shape.
> >> Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
> >> dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pul=
ley?
>
> > It is ONE of the obvious "fixes", =A0A blade that does not spin true or=
has a
> > chipped tooth can add vibration. =A0All moving parts add to the vibrati=
on.
> > The simpler solution IMHO is simply to dampen it rather than build the
> > "perfect" machine that has no weakest points.
>
> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. =A0So why would you give up
> all the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
> The obvious fix to your specific cause would be to return the blade that
> isn't spinning true or buy a new one to replace the chipped tooth.
> Somehow I can't see one chipped tooth causing enough vibration in a
> decent table saw to matter much. =A0Of course, I've done all of my work o=
n
> a -$200 Ryobi with a $100 blade, so I probably wouldn't notice. =A0:-)
>
> --
No rust is another benefit. Ease of assembly of extensions is another.
Much lower vibration overall is a prime benefit.
This is a good saw made better by the extra mass. On the one here, the
extension wings weighed 54 pounds each, compared to the Jet's cast
iron 40 pounders.
On Mar 13, 5:00=A0pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
> I saw it today when I was at HD.
>
> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. =A0 Did =
I
> mention
> it's GRANITE topped! =A0(I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive..=
.)
> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
>
> Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
> I did notice was the top was already chipped.
>
> Hmmmm....
Some upscale table saws now feature granite, Steel City, maybe?.
Personally, I would rather deal with a bit of rust on my cast iron
than a chip in granite. Maybe an epoxy repair kit should be included
with stone tops. Note that machine shops using granite surface plates
tend to baby them with covers, etc. For sure, granite is a better
choice than aluminum for a table saw and much better than marble for a
tombstone.
On Mar 15, 11:52=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Leon wrote:
> >>>> For me no. =A0I don't baby my tools.
> >>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
> >>> I'm asking.
>
> >> Absolutely! =A0Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a =
lot
> >> of vibration. =A0Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as
> >> aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 b=
elt
> >> set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a se=
t
> >> shape.
>
> > Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
> > dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pull=
ey?
>
> It is ONE of the obvious "fixes", =A0A blade that does not spin true or h=
as a
> chipped tooth can add vibration. =A0All moving parts add to the vibration=
.
> The simpler solution IMHO is simply to dampen it rather than build the
> "perfect" machine that has no weakest points.
Machined pulley and multiple V belt are part of the Ridgid package.
I've had one here for checking out, and it's an astonishing saw for
the price--$599.
On Mar 15, 12:30=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 10:23:50 -0500, Leon wrote:
> >> Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust, rather
> >> than from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty promises
> >> they knowingly won't honor.
>
> > I am kinda confused on the issue also. =A0 The company in question has =
a
> > pretty good reputation for building good tools and has one of =A0the be=
st
> > warranties in the industry. =A0If after making a compairison of feature=
s
> > and it was a toss up between 3 or 4 brands, the better warranty is the
> > one that gets the nod.
>
> Of course, there's always the question of the company still being around
> 10-20 years from now. =A0That's never a given, but in today's economy....
>
> --
Oh, come on. At this moment, ANY person who guarantees almost any
cmpany being around a decade from now is foolish. The company that
manufactures Ridgid tools, or at least the table saw, is immense, as
is Home Depot. That doesn't mean either can fail, but in general,
manufacturers tend to have less greedy and more able managers--
especially those not auto related...bankers and insurance, Jaysus! AIG
is paying $170 million bucks of our money to keep their "skilled
managers," the guys who led them into their current debacle.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>
> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. So why would you give up all
> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> faulty or poorly designed parts?
You are leaving out the fact that the top will not rust and that it will
stay flat. Cast iron will rust amd many will not remain flat. Remaining
flat has as much to do with accuracy as reducing vibration.
Additionally, magnetic feather boards/jigs and fixtures are a relatively
"New" concept. Not too many years ago they, magnetic, did not exist yet
those jigs that attached in other ways hve existed for a very long time.
I use a magnetic feather board however in some instances my older feather
board that attaches to the slot works better, it has a longer reach. Often
the magnetic feather board is too tall to use along with my Gripper.
> The obvious fix to your specific cause would be to return the blade that
> isn't spinning true or buy a new one to replace the chipped tooth.
Now that is simply being anal. No blade runs perfectly. I only use Forrest
blades, known for being considered one of the best brands and being very
flat. Does it run with out vibration? I seriousely doubt it, although a
lot less than other brands.
> Somehow I can't see one chipped tooth causing enough vibration in a decent
> table saw to matter much.
For some it may not. For some one making small tight fitting objects like
puzzles or cutting 1/16" and thinner veneer it would probably make a bigger
difference.
I personally will probably not ever purchase a TS with a granite top however
both cast iron and granite offer something that may be considered more
important to different people and for different uses. Some people keep
their saws out doors and or exposed to the outside climate. In desert
regoins a cast iorn top works out well and waxing the top works fine. Some
people live near salt water, rust is a daily battle and wax does not even
begin to address the rust issue. I live 60 miles from salt water and
TopCote is a must. I live in Houston, north of the Gulf of Mexico and the
prevailing summer winds bring salt in the air.
Of course, I've done all of my work on
> a -$200 Ryobi with a $100 blade, so I probably wouldn't notice. :-)
Maybe not. ;~)
Leon wrote:
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the fact
>>they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason for
>>purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.
>
>
>
> I'd venture to say that you bringing it in means that they are not coming
> out to do the repair. Jet sent me a start capacitor and eventually a new
> motor for my cabinet saw when it was still under warranty. I did all the
> leg work. Fine with me except the part with me lifting that honking motor
> into place under the table.
> I only had to return the big parts, I would imagine that Ridgid would work
> with you accordingly.
> Oddly the problem with the motor was normal, most all cabinet saws start off
> with a hard thump, that is what we were trying to fix.
>
>
I don't own any Ridgid power tools so I can't say, but the way the
warranty is worded it would seem the only way they will honor the
warranty is to return the toll to an authorized service center with your
receipt in hand.
I do own a number of Ridgid's pipe tools. The warranty for these hand
tools (threader and pipe wrenches), on the other hand, tells you to
return them to the place of purchase for repair or replacement at
Ridgid's Tools option.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>>Update:
>>The TS3660 apparently has not been phased out. Good thing too (or so it
>>seems)
>>since the warranty on this new one is only 3yrs....
>>
>>http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R4511-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm
>
>
>
> Did you read that warranty? The warranty is 3 years on all tools unless you
> register them, then you get the life time warranty.
>
> In addition to the 3-Year Limited Service Warranty currently included with
> RIDGID® Brand Hand Held Power Tools Stationary Power Tools, and Pneumatic
> Tools, purchasers of these products may elect for a limited time to receive
> a free Lifetime Service Agreement. To accept this Lifetime Service
> Agreement, you must register your product and submit proof of purchase as
> described below. The Lifetime Service Agreement provides the original owner
> of qualifying RIDGID® Brand tools a lifetime of free replacement batteries,
> free service and free replacement parts subject to the limitations set forth
> below.
>
>
> The Lifetime Service Agreement is available free of charge, for a limited
> time on all RIDGID® Brand hand held power tools, stationary power tools and
> pneumatic tools, subject to the terms and conditions stated below. Customers
> have 90 days from date of purchase to register tools for the Lifetime
> Service Agreement.
>
>
There's also the part:
"HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
stationary power tools. "
The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I
don't know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:21:58 -0500, "MikeWhy"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
>>> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. So why would you give up
>>> all
>>> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
>>> faulty or poorly designed parts?
>>
>>It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
>>knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a
>>threaded
>>hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooling
>>on
>>the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big,
>>heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it. I
>>also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
>>
>
> Granite might crack, chip or break, wears faster than iron. Vibration
> can be caused by many factors including case design, material, mass,
> belt design, tar buildup, rpm, bent shaft, damaged blade, etc.
>
> My lathe sometimes has a vibration issue. It helps to have a variable
> speed motor--sometimes changing the speed eliminates the vibration
> completely. It helps to have a pair of 800 pound cast iron legs with
> a shelf full of sandbags.
Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In normal or
even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or crack? Just how tough
or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter of time before the woodworking
magazines bombard one with ball bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on the
fence until then.
MikeWhy wrote:
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:DwCul.29$6%[email protected]...
>
>> There's also the part:
>> "HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>>
>> To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
>> prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
>> stationary power tools. "
>>
>> The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I
>> don't know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>>
>> Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
>
>
> Why in Jed's name would you ship a table saw for service?
<snip>
Because the lifetime service agreement reads "you must return it"?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> On 13-Mar-2009, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
>> I saw it today when I was at HD.
>>
>> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. Did I
>> mention
>> it's GRANITE topped! (I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive...)
>> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
>>
>> Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
>> I did notice was the top was already chipped.
>>
>> Hmmmm....
>
> Update:
> The TS3660 apparently has not been phased out. Good thing too (or so it
> seems)
> since the warranty on this new one is only 3yrs....
>
> http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R4511-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm
Did you read that warranty? The warranty is 3 years on all tools unless you
register them, then you get the life time warranty.
In addition to the 3-Year Limited Service Warranty currently included with
RIDGID® Brand Hand Held Power Tools Stationary Power Tools, and Pneumatic
Tools, purchasers of these products may elect for a limited time to receive
a free Lifetime Service Agreement. To accept this Lifetime Service
Agreement, you must register your product and submit proof of purchase as
described below. The Lifetime Service Agreement provides the original owner
of qualifying RIDGID® Brand tools a lifetime of free replacement batteries,
free service and free replacement parts subject to the limitations set forth
below.
The Lifetime Service Agreement is available free of charge, for a limited
time on all RIDGID® Brand hand held power tools, stationary power tools and
pneumatic tools, subject to the terms and conditions stated below. Customers
have 90 days from date of purchase to register tools for the Lifetime
Service Agreement.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:RnVul.159$6%[email protected]...
>>
>> Seriously though, if the only issue is weight, I'm thinking they would
>> let you disconnect the top and leave it at home.
>>
>>
>
> If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.
>
> Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the fact
> they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason for
> purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.
I'd venture to say that you bringing it in means that they are not coming
out to do the repair. Jet sent me a start capacitor and eventually a new
motor for my cabinet saw when it was still under warranty. I did all the
leg work. Fine with me except the part with me lifting that honking motor
into place under the table.
I only had to return the big parts, I would imagine that Ridgid would work
with you accordingly.
Oddly the problem with the motor was normal, most all cabinet saws start off
with a hard thump, that is what we were trying to fix.
-MIKE- wrote:
>>
>> <snipped>
>>
>> Because the lifetime service agreement reads "you must return it"?
>>
>
> Just throw it away and buy a new one, then.
> How dare they give you a lifetime warranty.
My point exactly. Who's going to haul a 452 lb. table saw in for service.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Swingman" wrote:
> Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen
> desk' last year:
> A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear'
> force to knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits
> where the glue had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly
> bonded to the wood and the wood was not damaged, so it certainly
> appears that the epoxy indeed weakened the granite?
Like you, my first impulse would have been epoxy; however, on 2nd
thought, the epoxy cured and provided a connection which transmitted
the impact to the granite, resulting in failure.
A good adhesive such as Sikaflex 291 or 3M 5200 would provide a good
bond while absorbing enough of the impact energy to avoid granite
failure.
IMHO, mechanical fasteners should be avoided.
If you do use them, make sure holes in granite have clearance to
provide float.
BTW, the epoxy didn't attack the granite, it was simply stronger in an
impact application.
HTH
Lew
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I can see the advantages, no rust, "flat" top that stays that way, and
>> mass for a smother running machine.
>> Disadvantages, chipping or breaking, virtually no modifications to the
>> granite, you may never be able to change fences, no magnets will stick to
>> it so many new feather boards and jigs are out.
>>
>
> Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean and
> wax it.
A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd say
granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the
precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to
start with.
For me no. I don't baby my tools.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
: But not to worry. Robatoy can upgrade you to a new bigger, thicker
piece of
: granite for your tablesaw. Or even some of that fake countertop
material he
: sells.
My SYB has a niece whose husband sell that fake countertop stuff for
Le Grande Orange and I've been trying to get him to fork up a piece big
enough to make a router table out of.
Dave in Houston
In article <[email protected]>, boat042-
[email protected] says...
> Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In normal or
> even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or crack? Just how tough
> or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter of time before the woodworking
> magazines bombard one with ball bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on the
> fence until then.
Percussion?
In art school I bounced a hammer off a granite tile once 2'x2'x2" and
the thing cracked as if I'd kung fu'd it.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> phorbin wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>, boat042-
> > [email protected] says...
> >
> >> Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In
> >> normal or even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or
> >> crack? Just how tough or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter
> >> of time before the woodworking magazines bombard one with ball
> >> bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on the fence until then.
> >
> > Percussion?
> >
> > In art school I bounced a hammer off a granite tile once 2'x2'x2" and
> > the thing cracked as if I'd kung fu'd it.
>
> Cast iron can crack too you know. My Dad had to put a new table on his band
> saw once when he dropped the old one and it broke into two pieces.
True.
I've destroyed two vises in my life. One when I was a kid and horsed one
of those 2 in. clamp to the table types too tightly. And last year I
wrecked one small boat anchor of a mechanic's vise by dropping.
:^) I guess I better stop using my saw table as an anvil.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But you seemed a little smitten with this idea of a "Lifetime Waranty"
> as if the whole notion made your heart go pitter-pat and your knees
> all weak. If it did, then who am I to tell you any different? I happen
> to
> be a little more skeptical though. It's a common sense thing. <eg>
>
> What it comes down to for me is that some guy -- someone collecting
> a paycheck from Ridgid -- decides what is and is not "abuse, neglect,
> or purposeful damage". Regardless of how I've treated my TS, it's this
> guy's word against mine.
Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust, rather than
from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty promises they
knowingly won't honor.
> What's the likelihood that, should my motor
> burn out or something else happen 5, 10, or 15 years down the road --
> that he is going to decide that it was due to a "defect in workmanship"?
Do you have an expectation that the 15 year old motor dies due to hidden
manufacturing defects? What's your understanding of a warranty against
defects in material or manufacturing?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes
>>>> the nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Coin on edge?
>>
>> Uh, what would be the point otherwise?
>
> I was asking what the "nickel test" was?
Coin on edge. If the coin on edge does not fall during start up, while the
saw is running, or during shut down, it passes the nickel test. There are
varying degrees of this test, the minimal you are looking for is for the
coin to stay upright when the saw is running. Start up and shut down is
really not a factor since you don't normally cut during start up or shut
down. Now if the coin stands up and does not roll or spin you are really
headed in the right direction.
-MIKE- wrote:
> Nova wrote:
>
>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> <snipped>
>>>>
>>>> Because the lifetime service agreement reads "you must return it"?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Just throw it away and buy a new one, then.
>>> How dare they give you a lifetime warranty.
>>
>>
>> My point exactly. Who's going to haul a 452 lb. table saw in for
>> service.
>>
>
> Is it common for other manufacturers to come to your house and fix it?
> You're left with the option of buying another saw and.... hauling it to
> your house.
> Then getting rid of your old saw which means... hauling it away.
>
> Seriously though, if the only issue is weight, I'm thinking they would
> let you disconnect the top and leave it at home.
>
>
If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.
Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the
fact they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason
for purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> The places in your area look like my kind of stores.
Yeah, unfortunately none are near me. I was desperate for compressor parts
and came up with Jack's through Google IIRC.
> The one thing that struck me odd when I looked for Ridgid's authorized
> service locations is that there are four within 100 miles of my location.
> Only two are less that 50 miles from my home. I'm familiar with the big
> name players in my local area that perform warranty service and sell parts
> for the majority of power tool, appliance and automobile parts. Most of
> the major power tool manufactures all use one of three places in my area.
> I've never heard of the two Ridgid uses, and have driven past both
> hundreds of time and never even knew they were there. One looks like a
> small mom & pop hardware store, the other looks like a commercial garage.
> It doesn't appear that either of them sell Ridgid tools?
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> having a granite top is to dampen vibration. So why would you give up all
> the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> faulty or poorly designed parts?
It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a threaded
hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooling on
the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big,
heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it. I
also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
>>> I'm asking.
>>
>>
>> Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot
>> of vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as
>> aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt
>> set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set
>> shape.
>
> Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
> dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pulley?
It is ONE of the obvious "fixes", A blade that does not spin true or has a
chipped tooth can add vibration. All moving parts add to the vibration.
The simpler solution IMHO is simply to dampen it rather than build the
"perfect" machine that has no weakest points.
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:130320092157114265%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> In article <[email protected]>, CW <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> it's GRANITE topped!
>
> WTF?
>
> That makes NO sense whatsoever. Might as well use glass and get the
> destruction over with in a hurry.
Oddly I know of 3 brands offering granite tops. Steel City was the first
IIRC. Add Ridged and Craftsman.
I can see the advantages, no rust, "flat" top that stays that way, and mass
for a smother running machine.
Disadvantages, chipping or breaking, virtually no modifications to the
granite, you may never be able to change fences, no magnets will stick to it
so many new feather boards and jigs are out.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> But you seemed a little smitten with this idea of a "Lifetime Waranty"
>> as if the whole notion made your heart go pitter-pat and your knees
>> all weak. If it did, then who am I to tell you any different? I happen
>> to
>> be a little more skeptical though. It's a common sense thing. <eg>
>>
>> What it comes down to for me is that some guy -- someone collecting
>> a paycheck from Ridgid -- decides what is and is not "abuse, neglect,
>> or purposeful damage". Regardless of how I've treated my TS, it's this
>> guy's word against mine.
>
> Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust, rather than
> from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty promises they
> knowingly won't honor.
I am kinda confused on the issue also. The company in question has a
pretty good reputation for building good tools and has one of the best
warranties in the industry. If after making a compairison of features and
it was a toss up between 3 or 4 brands, the better warranty is the one that
gets the nod.
>
>> What's the likelihood that, should my motor
>> burn out or something else happen 5, 10, or 15 years down the road --
>> that he is going to decide that it was due to a "defect in workmanship"?
>
> Do you have an expectation that the 15 year old motor dies due to hidden
> manufacturing defects? What's your understanding of a warranty against
> defects in material or manufacturing?
AND Defects in Materials and Manufacturing aside, simply being used so much
that they wear out is covered also. Now if that motor had hammer dent
marks, modified wiring, had been subject to the wrong voltage or hit by
lightning, I can see the warranty being voided.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a Delta contractor saw with stock pulleys and belt. Except
> immediately after sitting unused for long periods, it starts up fast and
> smooth. The nickel doesn't fall down until well into its wind down after
> powering off. It probably helps that it's running on 220V. Start up is
> close to immediate.
Great, I had a Craftsman iron top that passed the nickel test, but IMHO the
nickel test is a starting point indicator that you are headed in the right
direction in dampening vibration. My cabinet saw passes the nickel test
with less movement than the old saw and I get better results with this saw
over the Craftsman. The less vibration you have the better the cuts, all
things being equal.
On Mar 13, 6:00=A0pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
> I saw it today when I was at HD.
>
> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. =A0 Did =
I
> mention
> it's GRANITE topped! =A0(I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive..=
.)
> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
>
> Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
> I did notice was the top was already chipped.
>
> Hmmmm....
It certainly looks like a fine saw. The granite top makes a whole lot
of sense, although I worry a bit about the t-track.
But a properly selected slab of granite is some tough. Any wee pits
and chips are easily filled and levelled.
On Mar 15, 1:21=A0pm, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
> > having a granite top is to dampen vibration. =A0So why would you give u=
p all
> > the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
> > faulty or poorly designed parts?
>
> It might be helpful to ask it the other way, too. Why NOT granite? Who
> knows. The only thing that comes to mind is not being able to tap a threa=
ded
> hole in stone. I don't typically drop heavy, sharp cornered steel tooling=
on
> the tablesaw. The only jig I have that fits that description is the big,
> heavy tenoning jig. So far, I managed to not ding the C.I. top with it. I
> also move somewhere else for heavy hammering. Why NOT granite?
Hell, Ridgid wasn't even first. Steel City appears to have been.
Others are following suit, though those that aren't won't comment on
the reasons they're hanging in there with cast iron.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Actually Jack's Lawn Mower Service is a bigger out fit than it sounds.
>> They service a lot of equipment. Living in Houston, Jack's was the only
>> place that I could talk to and get the correct parts to repair a Speed
>> Air compressor that was 8 years old. I did the repairs after getting the
>> parts from them. Granger could not provide the parts I needed and Speed
>> Air is their brand.
>
> "Jack's Lawn Mower Service" in the Buffalo area is just a small shop
> selling and servicing "outdoor power equipment" (quoted from their web
> page).
Either they are not the same Jack's or they need to update their web page.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>> Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean
>>> and wax it.
>>
>> A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd
>> say granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the
>> precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to
>> start with.
>>
>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>
> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
> I'm asking.
Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot of
vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as aftermarket.
Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt set up to the
serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set shape.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:uzWul.174$6%[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>> I doubt that it is. Here's the Buffalo area web site:
>>
>> http://www.jackslawnmower.com/
>
>
> Yeah, absolutely a different Jack's than the one I used. LOL
Funny how businesses evolve. I recently had a new high efficiency oil
boiler installed. It was done by Southbridge Tire Company. Yes, they still
sell tires too, but oil is the big part of the business today. FWIW, it is
saving my money, about 32% last fill-up.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:DwCul.29$6%[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
> There's also the part:
> "HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>
> To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
> prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
> stationary power tools. "
>
> The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I don't
> know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>
> Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
Well yeah, if you want it fixed, you gotta get it back to them. I don't
know if too many brands where they come to you to pick up the tool to repair
it. I was the repair guy with Jet even though the repair center was only 6
miles away.
On 13-Mar-2009, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Has anyone checked out the new *contractor's* tablesaw from Ridgid?
> I saw it today when I was at HD.
>
> It looks like it's supposed to replace the old cast iron TS3650. Did I
> mention
> it's GRANITE topped! (I'm a newbie, so I found that a tad impressive...)
> It's also got a new fence system & redesigned Herc-U-Lift.
>
> Didn't have time to give it more than a passing look/see but one thing
> I did notice was the top was already chipped.
>
> Hmmmm....
Update:
The TS3660 apparently has not been phased out. Good thing too (or so it
seems)
since the warranty on this new one is only 3yrs....
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R4511-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm
NuWave Dave wrote:
...
> My SYB has a niece whose husband sell that fake countertop stuff for
> Le Grande Orange and I've been trying to get him to fork up a piece big
> enough to make a router table out of.
...
Sink cutouts should be pretty easy to come by altho most around here
shape them and leave them as cutting boards as a "feature service" kind
of goodwill thingie.
The bulk of those are only 1/2" material thickness and not all that
rigid though so not quite as good a material as it seems on first blush
has been my experience. For smaller pieces it's fine; not quite strong
enough in bigger or for larger routers, at least w/o supporting structure.
--
>>> There's also the part:
>>> "HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>>>
>>> To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
>>> prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
>>> stationary power tools. "
>>>
>>> The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I
>>> don't know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>>>
>>> Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
>>
>>
>> Why in Jed's name would you ship a table saw for service?
>
> <snip>
>
> Because the lifetime service agreement reads "you must return it"?
>
Just throw it away and buy a new one, then.
How dare they give you a lifetime warranty.
And those stupid lawn mower mechanics, yeah you can't trust those guys.
I mean, a table is complicated.
What's a lawn mower anyway, but an engine moving a blade in a circle
real fast? That's nothing like a table saw.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> I can see the advantages, no rust, "flat" top that stays that way, and mass
> for a smother running machine.
> Disadvantages, chipping or breaking, virtually no modifications to the
> granite, you may never be able to change fences, no magnets will stick to it
> so many new feather boards and jigs are out.
>
Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean
and wax it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
>> Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean and
>> wax it.
>
> A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd say
> granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the
> precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to
> start with.
>
> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>
Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
I'm asking.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Nova wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>
>>>
>>> <snipped>
>>>
>>> Because the lifetime service agreement reads "you must return it"?
>>>
>>
>> Just throw it away and buy a new one, then.
>> How dare they give you a lifetime warranty.
>
> My point exactly. Who's going to haul a 452 lb. table saw in for service.
>
Is it common for other manufacturers to come to your house and fix it?
You're left with the option of buying another saw and.... hauling it to
your house.
Then getting rid of your old saw which means... hauling it away.
Seriously though, if the only issue is weight, I'm thinking they would
let you disconnect the top and leave it at home.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>>> Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to
>>> clean and wax it.
>>
>> A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy.
>> I'd say granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to
>> take the precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a
>> good fence to start with.
>>
>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>
> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
> I'm asking.
Not unless there's something causing it which is pretty much independent
of the top.
I can't see granite being a real plus given the issues and the pita
problem it would be if did chip/crack. Seems like a marketing gimmick
to me; I've no clue about whether it's a cost-cutting effort for the
manufacturer or not. Doesn't seem like it must be much cost penalty
anyway given the vendors who are using it.
--
On 13-Mar-2009, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Update:
> > The TS3660 apparently has not been phased out. Good thing too (or so it
> > seems)
> > since the warranty on this new one is only 3yrs....
> >
> > http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R4511-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm
>
>
> Did you read that warranty? The warranty is 3 years on all tools unless
> you register them, then you get the life time warranty.
No I hadn't. I was strapped for time yesterday. But I've read it over now.
In the part you didn't post, there's the usual disclaimer info that pertains
to what is and is not covered. In essence it's the standard "Ridgid is not
responsible for problems not of our making" (see below) -- which, it seems
to me, leaves it entirely up to discretion of the person doing the repairs
to
make that determination.
Begging the question: Has anyone here had cause to repair a Ridgid
product, and if so, how pleased were you with your experience. Maybe a
topic for another thread???
"...warranty only covers defects arising under normal usage and does not
cover any malfunction, failure or defect resulting from misuse, abuse,
neglect,
alteration, modification or repair by other than an authorized service
center
for RIDGID branded hand held and stationary power tools".
Nova wrote:
>
> If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.
>
I'm with you on that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 14-Mar-2009, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.
>
> Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the
> fact they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason
> for purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.
I think you have a valid point. And it probably should also be pointed out ,
that the "Lifetime Waranty" is not bumper-to-bumper -- there are restrictions.
Now, I do own a couple Ridgid tools and I've been more than pleased. No
problems whatsoever. And while I expect that my TS will continue perform
well and last forever -- should it break -- I can't see shipping it off, only to
have some repair guy tell me that the problem's not covered by warranty.
And then charge me for repairs and return freight.
So I suppose it's a good thing for me that the nearest service center is
only a 1/2 hr away.
Leon wrote:
>>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
>> I'm asking.
>
>
> Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot of
> vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as aftermarket.
> Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt set up to the
> serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set shape.
>
Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pulley?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 14-Mar-2009, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > No I hadn't. I was strapped for time yesterday. But I've read it over
> > now.
> >
> > In the part you didn't post, there's the usual disclaimer info that
> > pertains to what is and is not covered. In essence it's the standard
> >"Ridgid is not responsible for problems not of our making" (see below)
> > which, it seems to me, leaves it entirely up to discretion of the
> > person doing the repairs to make that determination.
>
> Well naturally there would be a disclaimer, neglect and purposely damaging
> the tool would void that warranty.
Of course. I'd not meant to be obtuse or contentious. I realize that
Ridgid is not in business to provide its customers with tools, unconditionally,
for life.
But you seemed a little smitten with this idea of a "Lifetime Waranty"
as if the whole notion made your heart go pitter-pat and your knees
all weak. If it did, then who am I to tell you any different? I happen to
be a little more skeptical though. It's a common sense thing. <eg>
What it comes down to for me is that some guy -- someone collecting
a paycheck from Ridgid -- decides what is and is not "abuse, neglect,
or purposeful damage". Regardless of how I've treated my TS, it's this
guy's word against mine. What's the likelihood that, should my motor
burn out or something else happen 5, 10, or 15 years down the road --
that he is going to decide that it was due to a "defect in workmanship"?
Do you really think he's going to decide in my favor? If your answer is
other than "Highly unlikely" then I'd love to tell you how to triple your money
in this little ponzi scheme that I've got going... ;)
I bought Ridgid because I read some good stuff about the product I
wanted. The price was right. And it was available the day I needed
it. And the warranty? Well it didn't even crack my top 5 reasons for
buying.
-MIKE- wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>>>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
>>> I'm asking.
>>
>>
>> Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a
>> lot of vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered
>> as aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from
>> the 3 belt set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they
>> don't take a set shape.
>
> Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
> dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined
> pulley?
The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes the
nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
J. Clarke wrote:
> The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes the
> nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
>
Coin on edge?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:uzWul.174$6%[email protected]...
>>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I doubt that it is. Here's the Buffalo area web site:
>>>
>>> http://www.jackslawnmower.com/
>>
>>
>> Yeah, absolutely a different Jack's than the one I used. LOL
>
> Funny how businesses evolve. I recently had a new high efficiency oil
> boiler installed. It was done by Southbridge Tire Company. Yes,
> they still sell tires too, but oil is the big part of the business
> today. FWIW, it is saving my money, about 32% last fill-up.
My favorite is Sprint. More precisely SPRInT. Southern Pacific Railroad
Internal Telecommunications.
J. Clarke wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>> The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes
>>> the nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
>>>
>>
>> Coin on edge?
>
> Uh, what would be the point otherwise?
I was asking what the "nickel test" was?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>>>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>>>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
>>>> I'm asking.
>>>
>>> Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot
>>> of vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as
>>> aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt
>>> set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set
>>> shape.
>> Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to
>> dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pulley?
>
>
> It is ONE of the obvious "fixes", A blade that does not spin true or has a
> chipped tooth can add vibration. All moving parts add to the vibration.
> The simpler solution IMHO is simply to dampen it rather than build the
> "perfect" machine that has no weakest points.
>
I guess my point is... so far the only advantage anyone can offer for
having a granite top is to dampen vibration. So why would you give up
all the advantages of a magnetic top, just to dampen vibration caused by
faulty or poorly designed parts?
The obvious fix to your specific cause would be to return the blade that
isn't spinning true or buy a new one to replace the chipped tooth.
Somehow I can't see one chipped tooth causing enough vibration in a
decent table saw to matter much. Of course, I've done all of my work on
a -$200 Ryobi with a $100 blade, so I probably wouldn't notice. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes
>>>> the nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Coin on edge?
>>
>> Uh, what would be the point otherwise?
>
> I was asking what the "nickel test" was?
Oh, sorry to bite your head off then. Yeah, the test is to balance a nickel
on edge while the saw is running.
Here are a couple of shots of the test in progress. You can't really tell
that the saw is running though--I need to reshoot them sometime and play
with the shutter speed until I get the blade movement clearly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/sets/72157615311374584/
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 10:23:50 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>>> Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust,
>>> rather than from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty
>>> promises they knowingly won't honor.
>>
>> I am kinda confused on the issue also. The company in question has
>> a pretty good reputation for building good tools and has one of the
>> best warranties in the industry. If after making a compairison of
>> features and it was a toss up between 3 or 4 brands, the better
>> warranty is the one that gets the nod.
>
> Of course, there's always the question of the company still being
> around 10-20 years from now. That's never a given, but in today's
> economy....
If Ridgid was making substandard ovepriced tools it would be one thing, but
even without the lifetime warranty their tools are exceptional value.
phorbin wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, boat042-
> [email protected] says...
>
>> Chipping and cracking was first on my mind as well. But how? In
>> normal or even extreme use, how or what will cause it to chip or
>> crack? Just how tough or fragile is this stuff? It's only a matter
>> of time before the woodworking magazines bombard one with ball
>> bearings and bowling balls. I'll sit on the fence until then.
>
> Percussion?
>
> In art school I bounced a hammer off a granite tile once 2'x2'x2" and
> the thing cracked as if I'd kung fu'd it.
Cast iron can crack too you know. My Dad had to put a new table on his band
saw once when he dropped the old one and it broke into two pieces.
Robatoy wrote:
...
> Granite is not all created equal. You will see a diamond cutter take
> his wedge, look at it carefully and give the stone a whack..it splits.
> The hardest stuff known is diamond. Yet, there are fissures.
The diamond cleaves, not along a "fissure" but along the underlying
crystal facets or planes.
Granite is not a ductile material even as compared to cast iron. It has
excellent compressive strength, thermal stability, doesn't rust, etc.,
... _BUT_ it doesn't have any significant bending resistance and is far
more likely to fracture under a moderate impact than cast iron.
The two materials are so differing in their properties it's unlikely you
can even find equivalent measured values for them -- there's no
essentially no such thing as "ultimate strength" or "yield strength" for
stone as well as a measured Young's modulus.
I've no real idea how well these new tops will hold up in normal use but
the disadvantages still seem to have much going against as the pluses
have going for them to me. Time will tell, I suppose. If they're
really a great thing, they'll take over; otherwise it'll just be a
relatively short-lived fad. (The latter would be my guess at the moment)
--
Morris Dovey wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> If they're
>>> really a great thing, they'll take over
>>
>> And then Lee Valley will come out with their new line of granite hand
>> planes ;)
>>
>> UHMW hand planes?
>>
>> -Kevin
>
> Stainless steel, please!
>
Chrome plated granite, thank you.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
>
> http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg
>
What, you couldn't find any more wood to trim out between crown-n-crown?
:-p
Nice work.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:uzWul.174$6%[email protected]...
>
>>Leon wrote:
>
>
>>I doubt that it is. Here's the Buffalo area web site:
>>
>>http://www.jackslawnmower.com/
>
>
>
> Yeah, absolutely a different Jack's than the one I used. LOL
>
> I may have been a "bit " mistaken in the name but here is where I bought my
> compressor parts, good to know anyway.
>
> http://www.jackssmallengines.com/index.html
>
> and,
>
> http://www.jackssmallengines.com/do_it_home.html
>
The places in your area look like my kind of stores.
The one thing that struck me odd when I looked for Ridgid's authorized
service locations is that there are four within 100 miles of my
location. Only two are less that 50 miles from my home. I'm familiar
with the big name players in my local area that perform warranty service
and sell parts for the majority of power tool, appliance and automobile
parts. Most of the major power tool manufactures all use one of three
places in my area. I've never heard of the two Ridgid uses, and have
driven past both hundreds of time and never even knew they were there.
One looks like a small mom & pop hardware store, the other looks like a
commercial garage. It doesn't appear that either of them sell Ridgid tools?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Robatoy" wrote
>
>> The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
>> but can be found ahead of use.
>> Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
>> likely damage/pit cast iron as well.
>
> Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen desk'
> last year:
>
> http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg
>
> A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear' force to
> knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits where the glue
> had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly bonded to the wood
> and the wood was not damaged, so it certainly appears that the epoxy
> indeed weakened the granite?
I doubt the epoxy penetrated the stone surface by 1/4" and compromised the
material. What likely happened is the material directly under the adhesive
spots failed in direct shear, as concrete would in similar circumstance. I
would expect to find 45 degree cones under the spots of adhesive.
>
> Decided I didn't want to repeat the process, so I drilled 1/4" holes
> through the granite and ply substrate under each foot, applied some
> construction adhesive, and ran a wood screw into the wooden feet from
> underneath. I figured a mechanical fastener would hopefully preclude a
> future service call, and there have been no reported problems since (now
> that that was said out loud, just watch the phone ring tomorrow!).
Depends on edge distance. The expected failure mode is still direct shear,
this time from the bored hole to the edge. The backsplash likely will now
fail first.
>
> The question: what would *you* have used as an adhesive in the first place
> if forced into a similar situation?
It isn't a matter of which adhesive. The epoxy held. The failure was in the
substrate, the granite. Approach the problem as though the desktop were high
strength concrete. How many anchors, how deep, how far from the edge, would
you use if it were concrete?
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:uzWul.174$6%[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>
>
> I doubt that it is. Here's the Buffalo area web site:
>
> http://www.jackslawnmower.com/
Yeah, absolutely a different Jack's than the one I used. LOL
I may have been a "bit " mistaken in the name but here is where I bought my
compressor parts, good to know anyway.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/index.html
and,
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/do_it_home.html
If you Google Jack's small engine, you will come up with several
possibilities. Most of the ones that come up in my search have different
web pages however the Logos associated with the name are the same.
I am on their e-mail list and IIRC it comes in as Jack's lawn mower service,
but is not the one you are referring to.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> No I hadn't. I was strapped for time yesterday. But I've read it over
> now.
>
> In the part you didn't post, there's the usual disclaimer info that
> pertains
> to what is and is not covered. In essence it's the standard "Ridgid is
> not
> responsible for problems not of our making" (see below) -- which, it seems
> to me, leaves it entirely up to discretion of the person doing the repairs
> to
> make that determination.
Well naturally there would be a disclaimer, neglect and purposely damaging
the tool would void that warranty.
>
> Begging the question: Has anyone here had cause to repair a Ridgid
> product, and if so, how pleased were you with your experience. Maybe a
> topic for another thread???
I revall having read about repairs on their equipment. But besides that has
anyone ever been dissatisfied with the product or warranty. Typically you
hear about problems more so than a tool that performs as expected.
>
> "...warranty only covers defects arising under normal usage and does not
> cover any malfunction, failure or defect resulting from misuse, abuse,
> neglect,
> alteration, modification or repair by other than an authorized service
> center
> for RIDGID branded hand held and stationary power tools".
Would you expect otherwise? The tool is not built and expected to perform
when misused, abused, or neglected. They do BTY advertise in some of thir
ads that routine maintaince is covered under the warranty. I suspect that
if you neglect to get routine "free" service performed that that would void
the warranty.
BMW warrants their cars under warranty and perform free maintance for the
first 4 years of 50,000 miles. If you don't have the oil changed at all,
for free, or otherwise and blow the engine, it is going to be on you.
It is a common sense thing.
-MIKE- wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>>
>> http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg
>>
>
> What, you couldn't find any more wood to trim out between
> crown-n-crown? :-p
>
> Nice work.
I think I would have glued a small trim piece to the granite and the divider
to the trim piece. That is, install a "weaker link" than the granite itself.
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:DwCul.29$6%[email protected]...
> There's also the part:
> "HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>
> To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
> prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
> stationary power tools. "
>
> The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I don't
> know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>
> Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
Why in Jed's name would you ship a table saw for service? ??? The complex
wiring is neatly encased in a fan cooled metal enclosure. The arbor and
trunnion... I guess I would just ship that if they turned out to be bad.
Oh, and think what the "lawn mower mechanic" might think of having to work
on your tablesaw. Rocket science probably wasn't covered in his tech school
education.
Leon wrote:
> "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:DwCul.29$6%[email protected]...
>>
>>>There's also the part:
>>>"HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>>>
>>>To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
>>>prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
>>>stationary power tools. "
>>>
>>>The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I don't
>>>know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>>>
>>>Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
>>
>>Why in Jed's name would you ship a table saw for service? ??? The complex
>>wiring is neatly encased in a fan cooled metal enclosure. The arbor and
>>trunnion... I guess I would just ship that if they turned out to be bad.
>>
>>Oh, and think what the "lawn mower mechanic" might think of having to work
>>on your tablesaw. Rocket science probably wasn't covered in his tech
>>school education.
>
>
>
> Actually Jack's Lawn Mower Service is a bigger out fit than it sounds. They
> service a lot of equipment. Living in Houston, Jack's was the only place
> that I could talk to and get the correct parts to repair a Speed Air
> compressor that was 8 years old. I did the repairs after getting the parts
> from them. Granger could not provide the parts I needed and Speed Air is
> their brand.
>
>
"Jack's Lawn Mower Service" in the Buffalo area is just a small shop
selling and servicing "outdoor power equipment" (quoted from their web
page).
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 14:01:16 -0700, Charlie Self wrote:
>> Of course, there's always the question of the company still being
>> around 10-20 years from now. Â That's never a given, but in today's
>> economy....
>
> Oh, come on. At this moment, ANY person who guarantees almost any cmpany
> being around a decade from now is foolish.
That's what I meant. I wasn't implying that HD was any more or less
likely to fail than any other company. I'm just not overly impressed
with so-called lifetime warranties. OTOH, at my age 10-20 years will
handle my lifetime :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Yeah, I know this is an ancient thread, but...
On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 21:32:33 GMT, the infamous Nova
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.
Ditto, whenever possible, Yack. But I want them to pay for parts and
shipping.
>Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the
>fact they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason
>for purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.
Many large item mfgrs allow you to return them to the dealer you
bought them from and their trucks will pick them up. Check with yours
before buying. Also, disassembly and returning the broken part with
pics should be allowed.
---
A book burrows into your life in a very profound way
because the experience of reading is not passive.
--Erica Jong
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:DwCul.29$6%[email protected]...
>> There's also the part:
>> "HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
>>
>> To obtain service for this RIDGID tool you must return it, freight
>> prepaid, to an authorized RIDGID service center for hand held and
>> stationary power tools. "
>>
>> The closest service center to me is "Jack's Lawn Mower Service". I don't
>> know if I'd like a lawn mower mechanic trying to fix my table saw.
>>
>> Shipping a 452 lb saw with a fragile top could be quite expensive.
>
> Why in Jed's name would you ship a table saw for service? ??? The complex
> wiring is neatly encased in a fan cooled metal enclosure. The arbor and
> trunnion... I guess I would just ship that if they turned out to be bad.
>
> Oh, and think what the "lawn mower mechanic" might think of having to work
> on your tablesaw. Rocket science probably wasn't covered in his tech
> school education.
Actually Jack's Lawn Mower Service is a bigger out fit than it sounds. They
service a lot of equipment. Living in Houston, Jack's was the only place
that I could talk to and get the correct parts to repair a Speed Air
compressor that was 8 years old. I did the repairs after getting the parts
from them. Granger could not provide the parts I needed and Speed Air is
their brand.
Leon wrote:
> "Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>Actually Jack's Lawn Mower Service is a bigger out fit than it sounds.
>>>They service a lot of equipment. Living in Houston, Jack's was the only
>>>place that I could talk to and get the correct parts to repair a Speed
>>>Air compressor that was 8 years old. I did the repairs after getting the
>>>parts from them. Granger could not provide the parts I needed and Speed
>>>Air is their brand.
>>
>>"Jack's Lawn Mower Service" in the Buffalo area is just a small shop
>>selling and servicing "outdoor power equipment" (quoted from their web
>>page).
>
>
>
> Either they are not the same Jack's or they need to update their web page.
>
>
I doubt that it is. Here's the Buffalo area web site:
http://www.jackslawnmower.com/
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 17:40:00 -0500, Leon cast forth these pearls of
> wisdom...:
>
>
>
>>
>> Would you expect otherwise? The tool is not built and expected to
>> perform
>> when misused, abused, or neglected. They do BTY advertise in some of
>> thir
>> ads that routine maintaince is covered under the warranty. I suspect
>> that
>> if you neglect to get routine "free" service performed that that would
>> void
>> the warranty.
>
> Nope. No requirement for any "routine maintenance".
I suspect that would be subject to the specific tool. I recall an ad on
their worm drive circular saw. They were showing a chart of how you might
expect the tool to hold up at several thousand hour intervals. Something
like 5,000 hours, 200 homes framed, 10,000 hours tool brought in for free
service and hypoid oil replaced, 15,000 the tool......
From their site, and with registration you get the extended life time
warranty. It does state that the tool must be properly maintained, which I
understand to mean that routine maintenance would be required. The saw I
mentioned above does cover in the maintainence section of the owners manual,
checking of the oil level and replacing the oil.
Now If I had the saw and burned it up because it ran low on oil I would not
expect it to be covered under warranty, but maybe they would.
WHAT IS COVERED UNDER THE LIFETIME SERVICE AGREEMENT:
The Lifetime Service Agreement on RIDGID® Hand Held Power Tools, Stationary
Power Tools and Pneumatic Tools covers all worn parts in properly maintained
tools, including normal wear items such as brushes, chucks, motors,
switches, gears and even cordless batteries in your qualifying RIDGID®Brand
hand held and stationary power tools; and replacement rings, driver blades
and bumpers on RIDGID® Brand pneumatic tools for the lifetime of the
original owner. This Lifetime Service Agreement does not apply to other
RIDGID® Brand products.
"NuWave Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MFNul.9563$%[email protected]...
>
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> : But not to worry. Robatoy can upgrade you to a new bigger, thicker
> piece of
> : granite for your tablesaw. Or even some of that fake countertop
> material he
> : sells.
>
> My SYB has a niece whose husband sell that fake countertop stuff for
> Le Grande Orange and I've been trying to get him to fork up a piece big
> enough to make a router table out of.
>
> Dave in Houston
>
You might want to talk to an installer and get a sink cut out. My neighbor
had his counter tops changed out after I redid his cabinets. He use the
locally available, SyleStone, located on the south belt. They don't install
but can recommend an installer. I bet you could call them and see if an
installer could get you a cut out. My neighbor ended up with a decent sized
chunk IIRC.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>>> Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean
>>>> and wax it.
>>>
>>> A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd
>>> say granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the
>>> precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to
>>> start with.
>>>
>>> For me no. I don't baby my tools.
>>
>> Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top?
>> I'm asking.
>
>
> Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot of
> vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as
> aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt
> set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set
> shape.
I have a Delta contractor saw with stock pulleys and belt. Except
immediately after sitting unused for long periods, it starts up fast and
smooth. The nickel doesn't fall down until well into its wind down after
powering off. It probably helps that it's running on 220V. Start up is close
to immediate.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 10:23:50 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>>> Sheesh. It seems obvious. Buy tools made by someone you trust, rather
>>> than from the huckster trying to make the sale with warranty promises
>>> they knowingly won't honor.
>>
>> I am kinda confused on the issue also. The company in question has a
>> pretty good reputation for building good tools and has one of the best
>> warranties in the industry. If after making a compairison of features
>> and it was a toss up between 3 or 4 brands, the better warranty is the
>> one that gets the nod.
>
> Of course, there's always the question of the company still being around
> 10-20 years from now. That's never a given, but in today's economy....
True but unless you "know" a company is about to fold you cannot make a
decision on what might be.