-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/22/14 10:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>>>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>>>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>>>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> BTY with your talent for building drums, I have absolutely no doubt that
>> you can do this too.
>
> It seems like once you have your set-up done you can start cranking them
> out and let your imagination run wild.
>
> Then again I could always just buy one of those CNC deals and "print"
> some "custom" designs. ick.
>
That is the thing, set up only speeds initial production of cutting and
sanding veneers and the assembly of the many sticks of maple to make the
cutting boards.
5 sticks of maple at a time and then glue those sets together. From that
point it is mostly glue and grunt work. Not totally unlike painting 5-6
paintings, each has to be built individually and I was using 7 clamps on
each of the 3 separate laminations for each board. Each of my boards were
in the clamps at some stage 8 times, times 6 boards.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>>>> Normally when I do something like this I make a bunch as set up is
>>>> normally the time consuming issue. Not really the case on these. The
>>>> only time saving step is to cut all of your veneers for as many boards
>>>> as you want. Past that nothing really saves time.
>>>>
>
> How about if you had approached it as "inlay" work? I have no basis for knowing
> the pros and cons, but it seems like it might be faster. Maybe not as sanitary.
Then it would look like inlay and the ends of the cutting boards would
indicate so. But probably more troublesome as you would have to bend, by
hand, several wet glued laters of veneers to fit into a slot that they
must fit into perfectly. Add to that the fact that you will gave to be
squeezing out excess glue also.
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another fine project, Leon. Those are so elegant looking, they would add
> or compliment any kitchen. I always admire how you continue to push and
> advance your skills with challenging projects.
>
> Best of all, I think it's great you take the time to share.
>
> See you soon... hopefully... ;^)
>
> Robert
Thank you Robert. The beauty to these type challenges is that they help
you learn to do other common tacks in a better and faster way.
Kim and I are looking forward to seeing you and Kathy this weekend. We
both feel privileged that you guys have chosen to spend time with Linda,
Karl, and us, given your time constraints. :-). Kudos to Kathy and her
hard work for earning the time off.
On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 7:27:07 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> Thank you Robert. The beauty to these type challenges is that they help
> you learn to do other common tacks in a better and faster way. =20
> Kim and I are looking forward to seeing you and Kathy this weekend. We
> both feel privileged that you guys have chosen to spend time with Linda,=
=20
> Karl, and us, given your time constraints. :-). Kudos to Kathy and her
> hard work for earning the time off.
It's always our pleasure, I hope you know that. We always look forward to =
coming and feel like we are with family when we are there (except in a good=
way!). Way too much fun and camaraderie.
I am off the air until we hit Houston as today is the annual Wounded Warrio=
rs Dinner (why do you think I am up at 4 am...?) at the Fisher House. This=
year we are not only catering it ourselves, but we are cooking everything =
as well. Lots of prep, lots of serve time and logistics, and even more cle=
anup. I don't even see Kathy on Christmas Eve. Then Christmas with two fa=
milies the next two days, the out of here.
But again, you have to know if we can find any possible way to get to Houst=
on to see everyone that's gonna happen.
See you soon.
Robert
On 12/23/2014 9:37 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Dec 2014 21:51:41 -0600
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>>
>> Close up details
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>>
>
> Nice work and photos.
>
>
>
>
Thank you.
On 12/22/2014 9:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/22/14 9:51 PM, Leon wrote:
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>>
>> Close up details
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>>
>
> I'm inspired! I might have to do some of these.
>
>
Study the video.
Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
Another way to make a line appear narrower is to use same colored
veneers, on the outsides of the stack, as the color of the rest of the
cutting board.
Let me know if yo have any questions. I watched that video several
times until I was confident that I knew how and why each step was done
the way it was.
I will say that when cutting the grove with the BS to separate the two
sections of the cutting board I cut close to the edge of the groove on
both sides of the groove rather than one time near the middle. This
makes it easier to use the large pattern bit in the router table because
you are removing less waste. Read that as less excitement too.
Normally when I do something like this I make a bunch as set up is
normally the time consuming issue. Not really the case on these. The
only time saving step is to cut all of your veneers for as many boards
as you want. Past that nothing really saves time.
On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>
>
> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>
>
Exactly, you take out 1/2" you have to replace with 1/2" inch. I used 4
1/8" veneers The curve radius on one side of the grove is different than
on the other side. You cannot simply glue the board halves back
together, there will be gaps, you must replace with the same thickness
as what you remove.
FWIW the 1/8" thick veneers bent easily. And have your notched cawls
ready to index the surfaces of the cutting boards when gluing the
veneers in to replace the material you removed.
On 12/22/2014 10:22 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 12/22/2014 9:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/22/14 9:51 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>>>>
>>>> Close up details
>>>>
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm inspired! I might have to do some of these.
>>>
>>>
>> Study the video.
>>
>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>> width of the groove.
>
> Really? That sounds like a pain to glue right. I would have suspected
> planing or scraping, but I can see that the path is "paved with problems".
I probably said that wrong. The thickness of the veneer stack must add
up to the width of the grove/material removed. If you make you veneers
1/8" thick, 4 will stack up to the 1/2" Cut wide with a BS or TS and
sand with a drum sander or plane with a planer to remove tooth marks
down to the 1/8" thickness.
It is beneficial to have the width of the veneer stack to be at least
1/8" proud of the top surface.
That said I made sure it was proud on top and bottom. I have a 22" drum
sander which makes removing the proud veneer easy.
Glue up will be a pain if you don't replace exactly what you displace.
>
>
>
>> In the video he has 2 different width groves. He uses different sized
>> piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>
>> Another way to make a line appear narrower is to use same colored
>> veneers, on the outsides of the stack, as the color of the rest of the
>> cutting board.
>>
>> Let me know if yo have any questions. I watched that video several
>> times until I was confident that I knew how and why each step was done
>> the way it was.
>>
>> I will say that when cutting the grove with the BS to separate the two
>> sections of the cutting board I cut close to the edge of the groove on
>> both sides of the groove rather than one time near the middle. This
>> makes it easier to use the large pattern bit in the router table
>> because you are removing less waste. Read that as less excitement too.
>>
>> Normally when I do something like this I make a bunch as set up is
>> normally the time consuming issue. Not really the case on these. The
>> only time saving step is to cut all of your veneers for as many boards
>> as you want. Past that nothing really saves time.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
On 12/22/14 9:51 PM, Leon wrote:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>
> Close up details
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>
I'm inspired! I might have to do some of these.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>
Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> On 12/22/2014 9:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/22/14 9:51 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>>>
>>> Close up details
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>>>
>>
>> I'm inspired! I might have to do some of these.
>>
>>
> Study the video.
>
> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
> width of the groove.
Really? That sounds like a pain to glue right. I would have suspected
planing or scraping, but I can see that the path is "paved with problems".
> In the video he has 2 different width groves. He uses different sized
> piloted bits to cut these groves.
>
> Another way to make a line appear narrower is to use same colored
> veneers, on the outsides of the stack, as the color of the rest of the
> cutting board.
>
> Let me know if yo have any questions. I watched that video several
> times until I was confident that I knew how and why each step was done
> the way it was.
>
> I will say that when cutting the grove with the BS to separate the two
> sections of the cutting board I cut close to the edge of the groove on
> both sides of the groove rather than one time near the middle. This
> makes it easier to use the large pattern bit in the router table
> because you are removing less waste. Read that as less excitement too.
>
> Normally when I do something like this I make a bunch as set up is
> normally the time consuming issue. Not really the case on these. The
> only time saving step is to cut all of your veneers for as many boards
> as you want. Past that nothing really saves time.
>
>
>
>
>
Leon wrote:
> On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>>
>>
>> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>>
>>
> Exactly, you take out 1/2" you have to replace with 1/2" inch. I used
> 4 1/8" veneers The curve radius on one side of the grove is different
> than on the other side. You cannot simply glue the board halves back
> together, there will be gaps, you must replace with the same thickness
> as what you remove.
HA! That's sneaky, I didn't think of that. The person who learned that
first probably had grin bigger than mine! ; )
>
> FWIW the 1/8" thick veneers bent easily. And have your notched cawls
> ready to index the surfaces of the cutting boards when gluing the
> veneers in to replace the material you removed.
Leon wrote:
>>> Normally when I do something like this I make a bunch as set up is
>>> normally the time consuming issue. Not really the case on these. The
>>> only time saving step is to cut all of your veneers for as many boards
>>> as you want. Past that nothing really saves time.
>>>
How about if you had approached it as "inlay" work? I have no basis for
knowing
the pros and cons, but it seems like it might be faster. Maybe not as
sanitary.
On 12/22/14 10:34 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>>
>>
>> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>>
>>
>
>
> BTY with your talent for building drums, I have absolutely no doubt that
> you can do this too.
It seems like once you have your set-up done you can start cranking them
out and let your imagination run wild.
Then again I could always just buy one of those CNC deals and "print"
some "custom" designs. ick.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Mon, 22 Dec 2014 21:51:41 -0600
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
>
> Close up details
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/16083922712/in/photostream/
>
Nice work and photos.
On 12/22/2014 10:35 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>>>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>>>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>>>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>>>
>>>
>> Exactly, you take out 1/2" you have to replace with 1/2" inch. I used
>> 4 1/8" veneers The curve radius on one side of the grove is different
>> than on the other side. You cannot simply glue the board halves back
>> together, there will be gaps, you must replace with the same thickness
>> as what you remove.
> HA! That's sneaky, I didn't think of that. The person who learned that
> first probably had grin bigger than mine! ; )
;~)))
Alternatively, If you simply cut a straight line, ;~) it does not
matter how thick your stack is.
>
>>
>> FWIW the 1/8" thick veneers bent easily. And have your notched cawls
>> ready to index the surfaces of the cutting boards when gluing the
>> veneers in to replace the material you removed.
>
On 12/22/2014 10:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/22/14 10:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>> Something to watch for, the width of the initial grove used to cut the
>> shape in the surface. The veneer stack must be the exact width as the
>> width of the groove. In the video he has 2 different width groves. He
>> uses different sized piloted bits to cut these groves.
>>
>
> Is that because the gap won't close perfectly on a thicker veneer?
>
>
BTY with your talent for building drums, I have absolutely no doubt that
you can do this too.