Progress on the Sewing Studio Cabinets

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Saturday, August 22, 2015 at 12:07:36 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> We are working with Simi-Gloss, and we used a brush and roller.
>> Specifically a 1"x4" high density foam roller.
>>
>> I'm hoping that she will cover the flaws up. ;~)
>>
>> If I had the set up I would probably spray.
>
> I just want to say Leon, that I particularly enjoy your posts. At this
> point in my life I don't know if I am cut out for shop work, but I always
> enjoy looking and at and admiring your work. You and Karl both have a
> great eye for designing and executing very clean, functional designs,
> which are right in my wheel house of appreciation. Always good stuff,
> and I appreciate the time you take to post your work.

Well it is a pleasure sharing when I get replies like yours Robert. I know
that you know what you are talking about. We, especially you tend to share
from actual knowledge vs something we read and repeated. With me,
knowledge from experience always trumps something you read. Anyway. ...


>
> If I might be so bold as to suggest something on your finishing...
Absolutely.

> When I cannot spray (cough... cough... help me...) then I have to roll,
> brush, etc., as needed. Good brushes well cleaned and maintained are a
> must, and no doubt after visiting your shop that like all your equipment
> your brushes are in top shape. And your choice of enamel is excellent.

I pretty much stick with Purdy or Wooster and after more than a hand full
of years of painting houses with a deer friend I learned that a 3" sash
brush, sometimes 2-1/2", are my favorite sizes for detail work.


>
> So... then technique. When I have to finish something I cannot spray
> (oh.. the pain!) then I don't finish conventionally as it takes too much
> time. What I do and might suggest to you is to use paint pads. I use
> them for finishing shelves, cabinet sides, flats on large doors, and even
> wider rails and stiles. I actually started using them when I was
> refinishing a lot and found out how well they worked on long finishes. I used these

LOL, like minds. I discovered pad brushes on my own about 12-15 years
ago. There are 7 new ones in my tool chest right now.. When my friend
and I painted we always used brushes and rollers. He almost without
exception rolled the latex on the walls, I painted all of the trim and
cabinets with oil based enamel. My experience has been that the pad
brushes are terrific with latex paints, I have tried them with oil based
but was never quite as happy with the application of oil based. Maybe I
should give that another visit. Any way we discovered the 4" dense foam
rollers many years ago and we much preferred the results when working with
oil based.

>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-6-in-Handi-Painter-Paint-Pad-01500H/100186429

They last longer with latex and that may very well be why I prefer them
over the foam roller when working with latex.

>
> by the case as I cold get about 20 to 30 minutes out of them, then they
> fell apart. Sometimes more, but I can cover a helluva lot of ground in a
> half hour. These are wide, they lay out a great finish, and when done
> you just toss them. You have to cut in your inside corners, but you
> would be surprised how little; run the brush so that you get about 1/2"
> away from the corner and you can pad the rest. If done properly with the
> correct amount of paint (or poly as I found) will leave a near sprayed
> finish. MUCH smoother than a fine texture foam finishing roller. Heck,
> they're $2, certainly worth trying out with your finish on a clean piece
> of plywood. Even if you just used them for your shelving it would speed things up.

One of the big issues I had to watch out for were the shelf pin holes, each
inner panel has 46 and I did not want to fill the holes. I cut in with the
3 inch brush and rolled over the holes.


> A few years ago I showed that trick to one of my finishing comrades, and
> he loved it. Like me, he had been rolling out and leaving it to dry, or
> rolling out and back brushing. Ouch. He loved the final finish, but he
> went uptown on this idea and bought these because he could clean them and
> reuse them. Crap... I thought I was cheap!
>

LOL , I think I remembering thinking to myself, these pad brushes are so
good that I need to thoroughly clean them for re use. Then one day I
realized that 15-30 minutes of my time was worth more than $2.


> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-7-1-2-in-Premium-Teflon-Painter-Pad-3955106/202080282
>
> You should also know that they make those pads in different sized,
> probably even a 2 or 3 inch that might be great for rail and stile.
>
> It's still pretty hot down here, so don't know if you would benefit from
> thinning or not. When I paint with a brush/roller, I rarely thin and
> then only about 10% of volume. When I pad, I thin 10% of volume because
> it allows me to work faster and get a quicker layout.

Well there you go, I never thin and don't recall thinning when we tried the
pads and oil based many years ago. I built 3 large cabinets and work
stations for Kim's sewing studio. We painted all 3 with the same paint.
The heat in the garage was pretty brutal this year and fans were blowing to
make it tolerable. I'm sure this added to the issues that we ran into
which we had not in the winter on the previous 2 pieces.

I'll keep that in mind on the shelves.



>
> Just a few thoughts.
>
> Robert

THANKS!

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 1:55:38 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:

> Yours are very informative and interesting too Robert Nailshooter,
> including this one!
> Thanks,
> Bill

Thanks for the kind words, Bill. Not too many of us left around here anymore, but there are still little gems to be found from time to time for all of us.

Robert

On Saturday, August 22, 2015 at 12:07:36 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
=20
> We are working with Simi-Gloss, and we used a brush and roller.=20
> Specifically a 1"x4" high density foam roller.
>=20
> I'm hoping that she will cover the flaws up. ;~)
>=20
> If I had the set up I would probably spray.

I just want to say Leon, that I particularly enjoy your posts. At this poi=
nt in my life I don't know if I am cut out for shop work, but I always enjo=
y looking and at and admiring your work. You and Karl both have a great ey=
e for designing and executing very clean, functional designs, which are rig=
ht in my wheel house of appreciation. Always good stuff, and I appreciate =
the time you take to post your work.

If I might be so bold as to suggest something on your finishing...

When I cannot spray (cough... cough... help me...) then I have to roll, bru=
sh, etc., as needed. Good brushes well cleaned and maintained are a must, =
and no doubt after visiting your shop that like all your equipment your bru=
shes are in top shape. And your choice of enamel is excellent.

So... then technique. When I have to finish something I cannot spray (oh..=
the pain!) then I don't finish conventionally as it takes too much time. =
What I do and might suggest to you is to use paint pads. I use them for f=
inishing shelves, cabinet sides, flats on large doors, and even wider rails=
and stiles. I actually started using them when I was refinishing a lot an=
d found out how well they worked on long finishes. I used these=20

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-6-in-Handi-Painter-Paint-Pad-01500H/10=
0186429

by the case as I cold get about 20 to 30 minutes out of them, then they fel=
l apart. Sometimes more, but I can cover a helluva lot of ground in a half=
hour. These are wide, they lay out a great finish, and when done you just=
toss them. You have to cut in your inside corners, but you would be surpr=
ised how little; run the brush so that you get about 1/2" away from the cor=
ner and you can pad the rest. If done properly with the correct amount of =
paint (or poly as I found) will leave a near sprayed finish. MUCH smoother=
than a fine texture foam finishing roller. Heck, they're $2, certainly wo=
rth trying out with your finish on a clean piece of plywood. Even if you j=
ust used them for your shelving it would speed things up.

A few years ago I showed that trick to one of my finishing comrades, and he=
loved it. Like me, he had been rolling out and leaving it to dry, or roll=
ing out and back brushing. Ouch. He loved the final finish, but he went u=
ptown on this idea and bought these because he could clean them and reuse t=
hem. Crap... I thought I was cheap!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-7-1-2-in-Premium-Teflon-Painter-Pad-39=
55106/202080282

You should also know that they make those pads in different sized, probably=
even a 2 or 3 inch that might be great for rail and stile.

It's still pretty hot down here, so don't know if you would benefit from th=
inning or not. When I paint with a brush/roller, I rarely thin and then on=
ly about 10% of volume. When I pad, I thin 10% of volume because it allows=
me to work faster and get a quicker layout.

Just a few thoughts.

Robert

On 8/22/2015 11:32 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> I finished the top 2 main carcasses of units. My wife and I painted
>> the top cabinets 2 days ago with SW Pro Classic Oil based enamel.
>>
>> This morning we carried the 4 foot square top cabinets up the stairs
>> and made a hair pin curve at the top. I'm glad that turn worked out
>> OK.
>> Anyway I have to now add the back bead board panels, build the upper
>> glass door frames and build the upper cabinets top trim. And then
>> paint all of that including the 16 adjustable shelves.
>>
>> I think the hard part is behind me.
>
> There is no doubt in my mind that the panting is the hard part. In a few
> minutes am going the spray the final. semi-gloss black enamel coat on to
> the last face frames for the two vanities + tall cabinet that I have been
> working on for our master bathroom.

We are working with Simi-Gloss, and we used a brush and roller.
Specifically a 1"x4" high density foam roller.

I'm hoping that she will cover the flaws up. ;~)

If I had the set up I would probably spray.


>
> I will be GLAD!! I'm here to tell you that semi-gloss black shows every
> teeny flaw. I was carefull assembling the frames, little to no lippage;
> sanded them baby butt smooth,looked awful (as per a previous post). Fixed
> the "awful" with a coat of SW Wall & Wood primer, it really does sand
> easily. Still needed some more work here and there, fixed with a glazing
> putty I made with talc & shellac.
>
> Next are mahogany doors and drawer fronts, I will be SOOOO glad to get pack
> to clear finishes :)
>
> Glad you made the tutn OK.
>
>

Leon wrote:
> I finished the top 2 main carcasses of units. My wife and I painted
> the top cabinets 2 days ago with SW Pro Classic Oil based enamel.
>
> This morning we carried the 4 foot square top cabinets up the stairs
> and made a hair pin curve at the top. I'm glad that turn worked out
> OK.
> Anyway I have to now add the back bead board panels, build the upper
> glass door frames and build the upper cabinets top trim. And then
> paint all of that including the 16 adjustable shelves.
>
> I think the hard part is behind me.

There is no doubt in my mind that the panting is the hard part. In a few
minutes am going the spray the final. semi-gloss black enamel coat on to
the last face frames for the two vanities + tall cabinet that I have been
working on for our master bathroom.

I will be GLAD!! I'm here to tell you that semi-gloss black shows every
teeny flaw. I was carefull assembling the frames, little to no lippage;
sanded them baby butt smooth,looked awful (as per a previous post). Fixed
the "awful" with a coat of SW Wall & Wood primer, it really does sand
easily. Still needed some more work here and there, fixed with a glazing
putty I made with talc & shellac.

Next are mahogany doors and drawer fronts, I will be SOOOO glad to get pack
to clear finishes :)

Glad you made the tutn OK.

[email protected] wrote:
> On Saturday, August 22, 2015 at 12:07:36 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> We are working with Simi-Gloss, and we used a brush and roller.
>> Specifically a 1"x4" high density foam roller.
>>
>> I'm hoping that she will cover the flaws up. ;~)
>>
>> If I had the set up I would probably spray.
> I just want to say Leon, that I particularly enjoy your posts.

Yours are very informative and interesting too Robert Nailshooter,
including this one!
Thanks,
Bill



> At this point in my life I don't know if I am cut out for shop work, but I always enjoy looking and at and admiring your work. You and Karl both have a great eye for designing and executing very clean, functional designs, which are right in my wheel house of appreciation. Always good stuff, and I appreciate the time you take to post your work.
>
> If I might be so bold as to suggest something on your finishing...
>
> When I cannot spray (cough... cough... help me...) then I have to roll, brush, etc., as needed. Good brushes well cleaned and maintained are a must, and no doubt after visiting your shop that like all your equipment your brushes are in top shape. And your choice of enamel is excellent.
>
> So... then technique. When I have to finish something I cannot spray (oh.. the pain!) then I don't finish conventionally as it takes too much time. What I do and might suggest to you is to use paint pads. I use them for finishing shelves, cabinet sides, flats on large doors, and even wider rails and stiles. I actually started using them when I was refinishing a lot and found out how well they worked on long finishes. I used these
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-6-in-Handi-Painter-Paint-Pad-01500H/100186429
>
> by the case as I cold get about 20 to 30 minutes out of them, then they fell apart. Sometimes more, but I can cover a helluva lot of ground in a half hour. These are wide, they lay out a great finish, and when done you just toss them. You have to cut in your inside corners, but you would be surprised how little; run the brush so that you get about 1/2" away from the corner and you can pad the rest. If done properly with the correct amount of paint (or poly as I found) will leave a near sprayed finish. MUCH smoother than a fine texture foam finishing roller. Heck, they're $2, certainly worth trying out with your finish on a clean piece of plywood. Even if you just used them for your shelving it would speed things up.
>
> A few years ago I showed that trick to one of my finishing comrades, and he loved it. Like me, he had been rolling out and leaving it to dry, or rolling out and back brushing. Ouch. He loved the final finish, but he went uptown on this idea and bought these because he could clean them and reuse them. Crap... I thought I was cheap!
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-7-1-2-in-Premium-Teflon-Painter-Pad-3955106/202080282
>
> You should also know that they make those pads in different sized, probably even a 2 or 3 inch that might be great for rail and stile.
>
> It's still pretty hot down here, so don't know if you would benefit from thinning or not. When I paint with a brush/roller, I rarely thin and then only about 10% of volume. When I pad, I thin 10% of volume because it allows me to work faster and get a quicker layout.
>
> Just a few thoughts.
>
> Robert
>