SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
Thanks for all your help.
If you glue and fill the crack in the winter it will split and crack again
at the other end next winter.
You probably have a piece of reinforcing wood at right angles to the saddle
wood grain that is pushing the saddle apart. This should have been "slide
fastened" to allow expansion of grains at right angles to each other.
Fix up or install a humidifier to stop this.
"trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
Thanks for all your help.
On Dec 17, 6:44=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
>
> > I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
> > as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
> > into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
> > together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
> > you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
> > plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
> > well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
> > holes aren't too deep.
>
> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I'm sorry, after reading the subject header I keep double checking if
indeed I opened the wreck newsgroup or if I accidentally wandered into
either a taylor/sewing newsgroup or weight watchers.
Tim W wrote:
>> Sometimes you can pour epoxy resin into the crack. You can seal the
>> underside with parcel tape to stop it all running out onto the
>> floor, and a
>> bit of wax on the surface you don't want it to stick to can be
>> useful. Cut
>> away what you can when the epoxy turns to cheese before it hardens.
>> That
>> will give you the strongest repair and without building in any
>> stresses from
>> cramping.
>>
----------------------------------
"Steve Turner" wrote:
>
> This would be my exact suggestion if my first choice of dismantling
> the chair, fully separating the failed glue joint and re-gluing it
> were not an option.
-------------------------
Use a low viscosity penetrating epoxy such as "Git Rot".
As suggested, tape bottom and open end of crack closed, then pour in
epoxy and clamp shut.
Lew
I wrote:
>> As suggested, tape bottom and open end of crack closed, then pour
>> in epoxy and clamp shut.
---------------------------------
"Morgans" wrote:
>
> I would add one more thing to that.
>
> LIGHTLY clamp it shut.
>
> Because that will induce less stress in the wood structure that
> caused it to split in the first place, and that epoxy has the
> characteristic that it requires less clamping force for a good bond.
> Clamping too tightly is a fairly common mistake for people who
> usually work with yellow glues that use epoxy for the first times.
> If you clamp epoxy too hard, you actually starve the joint of the
> epoxy needed to bond the two pieces.
-------------------------------------
When using low viscosity epoxy such as Git Rot, you can use an
alternate approach to that described above.
Tape both bottom and top of crack after clamping crack closed with
just enough pressure to close crack.
Position chair so that crack is vertical, then pour Git Rot into
crack.
Allow at least 48 hours cure time before removing clamp.
Tape can be pulled after 24 hours at 70F minimum.
This assumes you have not over clamped and the Git Rot can penetrate
the full length of the crack.
Lew
"trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
> rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
> noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
> glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
> rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
> about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
> At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
> What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
> continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
> Thanks for all your help.
>
Sometimes you can pour epoxy resin into the crack. You can seal the
underside with parcel tape to stop it all running out onto the floor, and a
bit of wax on the surface you don't want it to stick to can be useful. Cut
away what you can when the epoxy turns to cheese before it hardens. That
will give you the strongest repair and without building in any stresses from
cramping.
Tim W
I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
holes aren't too deep.
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:28:12 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Dec 17, 6:44 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
>>
>> > I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
>> > as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
>> > into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
>> > together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
>> > you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
>> > plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
>> > well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
>> > holes aren't too deep.
>>
>> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
>> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
>> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
>
>I'm sorry, after reading the subject header I keep double checking if
>indeed I opened the wreck newsgroup or if I accidentally wandered into
>either a taylor/sewing newsgroup or weight watchers.
Who's "Taylor" and why is he on a sewing newsgroup for Weight
Watchers?
Kontext, yew Krazy Kanuck, is KEY.
--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> As suggested, tape bottom and open end of crack closed, then pour in epoxy
> and clamp shut.
I would add one more thing to that.
LIGHTLY clamp it shut.
Because that will induce less stress in the wood structure that caused it to
split in the first place, and that epoxy has the characteristic that it
requires less clamping force for a good bond. Clamping too tightly is a
fairly common mistake for people who usually work with yellow glues that use
epoxy for the first times. If you clamp epoxy too hard, you actually starve
the joint of the epoxy needed to bond the two pieces.
--
Jim in NC
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
> > I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
> > as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
> > into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
> > together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
> > you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
> > plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
> > well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
> > holes aren't too deep.
> >
>
> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
However regular wood glue creeps, which when you are trying to close up
a check is no help at all. So does Gorilla Glue according to their Web
site.
Then there is the issue that if it is in fact in a glue line then the
glue has to stick to whatever is already in there.
Epoxy would be your best bet--sticks to just about anything, fills gaps,
and doesn't creep.
If you can separate the pieces completely and joint them, then Weldwood
Plastic Resin Glue would be another good option.
On Dec 18, 12:30=A0am, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 12/17/2010 11:28 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Dec 17, 6:44 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
>
> >>> I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack u=
p
> >>> as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
> >>> into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
> >>> together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
> >>> you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
> >>> plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
> >>> well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
> >>> holes aren't too deep.
>
> >> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
> >> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
> >> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
>
> >> --
>
> >> =A0 =A0-MIKE-
>
> >> =A0 =A0"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in li=
fe"
> >> =A0 =A0 =A0 --Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> >> =A0 =A0--
> >> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> >> =A0 [email protected]
> >> =A0 =A0---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> > I'm sorry, after reading the subject header I keep double checking if
> > indeed I opened the wreck newsgroup or if I accidentally wandered into
> > either a taylor/sewing newsgroup or weight watchers.
>
> I kept wondering how long it would be before somebody made a crack.
>
Well, somebody had to do it.....
On Dec 17, 5:46=A0pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> Clamp the seat to close the split,
Make sure she's not on the seat at that time....
> then attach some cross pieces under
> the seat.
>
> Sonny
On 12/17/2010 5:39 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
> SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
> rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
> noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
> glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
> rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
> about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
> At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
> What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
> continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
> Thanks for all your help.
Can you split it completely and re glue it?
I have a rocker that has split twice and have successfully reglued it
bout times.
On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
> I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
> as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
> into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
> together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
> you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
> plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
> well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
> holes aren't too deep.
>
There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/17/2010 6:18 PM, Tim W wrote:
> "trvlnmny"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
>> rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
>> noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
>> glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
>> rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
>> about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
>> At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
>> What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
>> continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
>> Thanks for all your help.
>>
>
> Sometimes you can pour epoxy resin into the crack. You can seal the
> underside with parcel tape to stop it all running out onto the floor, and a
> bit of wax on the surface you don't want it to stick to can be useful. Cut
> away what you can when the epoxy turns to cheese before it hardens. That
> will give you the strongest repair and without building in any stresses from
> cramping.
>
> Tim W
This would be my exact suggestion if my first choice of dismantling the chair,
fully separating the failed glue joint and re-gluing it were not an option.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 12/17/2010 11:28 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Dec 17, 6:44 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
>>
>>> I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
>>> as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
>>> into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
>>> together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
>>> you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
>>> plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
>>> well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
>>> holes aren't too deep.
>>
>> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
>> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
>> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
>> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
>> --
>> http://mikedrums.com
>> [email protected]
>> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> I'm sorry, after reading the subject header I keep double checking if
> indeed I opened the wreck newsgroup or if I accidentally wandered into
> either a taylor/sewing newsgroup or weight watchers.
I kept wondering how long it would be before somebody made a crack.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SWMBO has a favorite rocking chair. I have recently replaced the
> rockers for her and I am still her favorite woodworker. We have now
> noticed that the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
> glue joint going from front to back. The splitting is wider at the
> rear of the seat and narrower towards the front. At present it is only
> about 6" long. The split is similar on the top and bottom of the seat.
> At its widest is about 1/8". I believe the seat is pine.
> What are your suggestions as to how I can stop the split from
> continuing and rejoin it where is already apart?
> Thanks for all your help.
Not an answer, but I wonder what glue was used in the initial assembly and
would such glue residue affect the bond of the new glue used in the repair?
"Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "woodstuff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
>
> >> the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
> >> glue joint going from front to back.>
>
>
> > Not an answer, but I wonder what glue was used in the initial assembly
and
> > would such glue residue affect the bond of the new glue used in the
> > repair?
> >
> >
>
> You are right, I missed that. A very pertinent question.
> It might need to be sawn through to clear the old glue.
>
> Tim w
>
Yeah, this is an old problem, repairing seat splits. Disassembly can be a
pain and cause damage elsewhere. It's a hard road to travel. I have two
antique chairs to repair and just keep putting it off. I keep thinking the
best solution is epoxy in the split with a mortised-in piece across. Hard
call for me, as it would not help the value of the antique rocker.
In article <[email protected]>,
Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/17/2010 11:28 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Dec 17, 6:44 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 12/17/10 5:21 PM, fenwick person wrote:
>>>
>>>> I had a similar problem with an antique table top. Opened the crack up
>>>> as much as I could with wedges. Works a SMALL amount of Gorilla Glue
>>>> into the crack with a paper clip. Then used "pipe" clamps to hold it
>>>> together while glue set up. Be careful, as Gorilla Glue "foams" and
>>>> you can have quite a mess. As on poster suggested, maybe a "mending
>>>> plate" or two underneath to strengthen it would be a good idea as
>>>> well. Set them when you have it clamped together. Make sure the drill
>>>> holes aren't too deep.
>>>
>>> There is no need to use Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glue.
>>> It is weaker than plain old yellow wood glue and wood glue doesn't
>>> need water to activate it, like Gorilla glue does.
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> -MIKE-
>>>
>>> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
>>> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
>>> --
>>> http://mikedrums.com
>>> [email protected]
>>> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>>
>> I'm sorry, after reading the subject header I keep double checking if
>> indeed I opened the wreck newsgroup or if I accidentally wandered into
>> either a taylor/sewing newsgroup or weight watchers.
>
>I kept wondering how long it would be before somebody made a crack.
Not very, or sew it would seam.
"woodstuff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> the seat is starting to split. It looks like it along a
>> glue joint going from front to back.>
> Not an answer, but I wonder what glue was used in the initial assembly and
> would such glue residue affect the bond of the new glue used in the
> repair?
>
>
You are right, I missed that. A very pertinent question.
It might need to be sawn through to clear the old glue.
Tim w