What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
made from red cedar?
Would good 'ol galvenized screws be OK?
A set of plans I read mentioned dry wall screws. I'm sure they would hold
pretty
well, but, rusted screws would spoil the look. (The were also using PT wood
though.)
Do they make galvenized 'dry wall' screws?
Or, would a waterproof glue and plugs in the screw holes hold up well?
How about dowel rods?
ThankX
Ron
Ron asks:
>What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
>made from red cedar?
>
>Would good 'ol galvenized screws be OK?
>
>A set of plans I read mentioned dry wall screws. I'm sure they would hold
>pretty
>well, but, rusted screws would spoil the look. (The were also using PT wood
>though.)
>
>Do they make galvenized 'dry wall' screws?
>
>Or, would a waterproof glue and plugs in the screw holes hold up well?
>
www.mcfeelys.com
Check out the stainless steel screws, as well as their corrosion resistant
coatings. Jim's catalog explains it as well as anything I've seen, so ask for
one.
Charlie Self
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so."
Mark Twain
"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
> made from red cedar?
>
> Would good 'ol galvenized screws be OK?
>
> A set of plans I read mentioned dry wall screws. I'm sure they would hold
> pretty
> well, but, rusted screws would spoil the look. (The were also using PT wood
> though.)
>
> Do they make galvenized 'dry wall' screws?
>
> Or, would a waterproof glue and plugs in the screw holes hold up well?
>
> How about dowel rods?
>
> ThankX
> Ron
Ron, how 'bout you go screw yourself? You are asking very generalized
questions. Give us some details and we can babysit you a little
better, asshole!
"Life aint nothin' but twinks and chinks!" (Sexy gay young men and
Chinese food!) -JOAT (Jerk-Off All Twinks)
"Ron" writes:
> What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
> made from red cedar?
I'd use silicon bronze, much better than brass and/or stainless IMHO.
Check Jamestown Distributors for availability.
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 01:16:09 GMT, "Ron" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Yes, I was planning on Eastern, why not western though?
Western red cedar (quite a different species - but the trees look
similar) is a very different timber. Very light and soft, smells
somewhat unpleasantly of pencils, and less rot resistance compared to
Eastern. Really it's that softness and structural weakness that's the
problem here. The surface takes a battering if it's walked on or
rubbed against, and this gives rot an entry point.
I use WRC a lot, but only when I want something ultra-light. Lately
I've been making Japanese-style bandsawn presentation boxes for small
knives. The inside is bandsawn and planed smooth, the two outer faces
are rough sawn on a huge saw to leave a rough surface. Then it slips
into a sleeve of thick veneer.
WRC isn't a bad outdoor timber compared to ERC, but you really don't
want to confuse them if you're making a cedar lined chest for
furniture use !
>Any other woods worth considering, except PT and red wood?
Larch can be good - depending on the grade. Some of it has a lot of
resin and is almost self-varnishing 8-)
For furniture, I'm almost tempted by tropicals (except for the
conservation issues). Although there are UK species that will build
reliable outdoor structures without much treatment, movable furniture
is improved by using a harder timber - like Iroko.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 02:44:02 GMT, "Ron" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
> >made from red cedar?
>
> Eastern red cedar, I hope, not western.
>
Yes, I was planning on Eastern, why not western though?
I've seen it used (advertised) a good bit.
Any other woods worth considering, except PT and red wood?
Ron
On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 02:44:02 GMT, "Ron" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
>made from red cedar?
Eastern red cedar, I hope, not western.
>Would good 'ol galvenized screws be OK?
They'd be fine, but you'd want to set them deep and epoxy a wooden
plug over the top.
Bronze are a hideous price, stainless are pretty cheap these days.
Unless you're near the sea (stainless doesn't like salt) then I'd use
stainless.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
>Unless you're near the sea (stainless doesn't like salt) then I'd use
>stainless.
That's a surprise to all of us who have stainless screws in our piers. 304
class stainless (High iron content), like you see in S/S props may show a
little surface rusting but not enough to run. The deck screws seem to be a
little higher in chromium and I don't see any rust on the ones in my dock.
Someone wrote:
> >Unless you're near the sea (stainless doesn't like salt) then I'd use
> >stainless.
"Gfretwell" writes:
>
> That's a surprise to all of us who have stainless screws in our piers. 304
> class stainless (High iron content), like you see in S/S props may show a
> little surface rusting but not enough to run. The deck screws seem to be a
> little higher in chromium and I don't see any rust on the ones in my dock.
It's called "stain less" for a reason, it will still corrode in the marine
environment.
304 (AKA: 18-8) is the absolute minimum, 316L at about a 20% premium over
304 is preferred.
BTW, S/S requires access to oxygen to maintain it's "stain less" surface.
Plugging the fasteners and sealing with epoxy is counter productive.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures