Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
What do you guys think?
More on my frustration here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
better)
to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
If you have a great amount of material to remove
you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
with cutting oil.
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
>> easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
>> surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
>> cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
>> goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
>> the knives - one per side). Cake.
>
> Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold
> the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
> Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can
> adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
> I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened
> differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain
> point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think
> about.
>
>
>>
>> The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old
>> planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
>> (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but
>> springs and a jig which came with the planer.
>>
>> I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
>> they thought they were making things easier.
>
> Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first
> bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had
> probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit in
> a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly fit
> onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place outside
> the planer.
Yeah, I got one of those sitting in my garage. Blades were easy to change
and to get resharpened. Replacements were cheap. Just the width restricted
some work that it could do and it would always snipe the ends of the boards
no matter how careful you were.
[...snip...]
>
>I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
>they thought they were making things easier.
>
[...snip...]
Just my opinion,
Dewalt aren't the only brand that uses disposable / non-sharpenable
knives. So in part it is to remain competitive. Sending out a set of 3
knives 2 times for sharpening is not that much less $$ than buying a
new set. Plus with indexed knives it can be much faster to install
them.
If, like you, someone wants to sharpen their own blades, then the
equation is dramatically changed.
On Mar 13, 7:36=A0am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
> > easy part. =A0I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
> > surface plate. =A0I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
> > cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
> > goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
> > the knives - one per side). =A0Cake.
>
> Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold
> the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
> Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you
> can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
> I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened
> differently than the rest of the knife. =A0If it is, once past a certain
> point the blade may not hold an edge as well. =A0Just something to think
> about.
Good point. I don't know if they edge is different steel or not.
Dewalt refers to the knives as M2 Laminated high speed steel. Is
there one layer of M2 laminated on the outside or is it laminated with
M2 in between other layers of steel. ??
>
>
>
> > The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. =A0For my old
> > planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
> > (still have the original set). =A0No alignment pins were used but
> > springs and a jig which came with the planer.
>
> > I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
> > they thought they were making things easier.
>
> Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. =A0I had one of the very first
> bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. =A0It had standard style blades that ha=
d
> probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. =A0The blades and their holders fit
> in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. =A0Then that assembly
> fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. =A0All adjusting took place
> outside the planer. =A0Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to
> simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to
> that first of its kind, Ryobi.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 12, 8:53 pm, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> =A0wrote:
> >> On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> >>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). =A0I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) =
and
> >>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> >>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? =A0Do I need a diamond or
> >>> carbide bit? =A0Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> >>> What do you guys think?
>
> >>> More on my frustration here:
> >>>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>
> >> Would an end mill bit do the trick? =A0And with that in mind, if you m=
ake
> >> the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade
> >> when putting it back in the planer?
I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
the knives - one per side). Cake.
The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old
planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
(still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but
springs and a jig which came with the planer.
I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
they thought they were making things easier.
On Mar 12, 8:53=A0pm, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> > pin on the cutterhead (DW735). =A0I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) an=
d
> > it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> > Is there a way to do this in a home shop? =A0Do I need a diamond or
> > carbide bit? =A0Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> > What do you guys think?
>
> > More on my frustration here:
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>
> Would an end mill bit do the trick? =A0And with that in mind, if you make
> the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade
> when putting it back in the planer?
Well, if you need it for alignment, I'm not sure my suggestion is valid.
Get a diamond bit for a dremel, and gently enlarge the hole. You can
climb cut with it and it will take off a little at a time and keep it
relatively round. That being said, if you need it accurate take it to a
machine shop.
On 3/12/2012 7:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
On Mar 13, 10:16=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com..=
.
> > > Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> > > pin on the cutterhead (DW735). =A0I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) =
and
> > > it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> > > Is there a way to do this in a home shop? =A0Do I need a diamond or
> > > carbide bit? =A0Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> > > What do you guys think?
>
> > > More on my frustration here:
> > >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>
> > When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
>
> > First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
>
> > Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File =
or
> > better)
>
> > to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
>
> > If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
>
> > give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
>
> > Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
>
> > If you have =A0a great amount of material to remove
>
> > you have to build a drill jig. =A0And use carbide for drilling
>
> > with cutting oil.
>
> For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
> <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
> Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. =A0This is the part that he's working with. =A0The
> cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
> the link), with them being reversible. =A0After sharpening, since the
> dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
> (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
> positioned. =A0The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
>
> To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
> holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
> others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
> new set of blades. =A0Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
That is a possibility regarding the screw holes. There is some slop
in between the screw holes and the screws. Probably enough to work
with. The alignment pin - hole has zero slop as one would expect.
>
> The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
> hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
> bitch.
On 3/14/2012 3:49 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> [...snip...]
>>
>> I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
>> they thought they were making things easier.
>>
> [...snip...]
>
> Just my opinion,
>
> Dewalt aren't the only brand that uses disposable / non-sharpenable
> knives. So in part it is to remain competitive. Sending out a set of 3
> knives 2 times for sharpening is not that much less $$ than buying a
> new set. Plus with indexed knives it can be much faster to install
> them.
>
> If, like you, someone wants to sharpen their own blades, then the
> equation is dramatically changed.
I saw it that way too but IMHO the resharpenable knives tend to go/last
much longer between resharpenings than how often the disposable ones
seem to be getting replaced.
It has bene quite a long time since having planer knives sharpened, 10+
years IIRC, I paid 75 cents per linear inch.
And that said, I use my thickness planer as a thickness planer I
absolutely do not expect a finished surface result, wrong tool.
On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
> easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
> surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
> cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
> goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
> the knives - one per side). Cake.
Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold
the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you
can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened
differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain
point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think
about.
>
> The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old
> planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
> (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but
> springs and a jig which came with the planer.
>
> I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
> they thought they were making things easier.
Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first
bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had
probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit
in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly
fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place
outside the planer. Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to
simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to
that first of its kind, Ryobi.
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 8:53 pm, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>> On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
>>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
>>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>>
>>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
>>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
>>> What do you guys think?
>>
>>> More on my frustration here:
>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>>
>> Would an end mill bit do the trick? And with that in mind, if you make
>> the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade
>> when putting it back in the planer?
>
Don't do it. I would first try another blade, if you have the same problem,
then the problem is with the pin not the hole. Better to repaire one pin
than a dozen blades. I would also check with the mfg. of the unit and see if
anyone else has had the same problem, and if they did what was the fix they
used. Steel can be brittle, and any grinding, drilling etc. can weaken it
causing it to break, you do not need the experience of flying metal comming
out of a planer in all directions. Just my 2 cents worth.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
Would an end mill bit do the trick? And with that in mind, if you make
the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade
when putting it back in the planer?
On 3/13/2012 11:33 AM, EXT wrote:
>
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
>>> easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
>>> surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
>>> cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
>>> goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
>>> the knives - one per side). Cake.
>>
>> Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to
>> hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
>> Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you
>> can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
>> I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not
>> hardened differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a
>> certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something
>> to think about.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old
>>> planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
>>> (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but
>>> springs and a jig which came with the planer.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
>>> they thought they were making things easier.
>>
>> Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first
>> bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that
>> had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders
>> fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that
>> assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took
>> place outside the planer.
>
> Yeah, I got one of those sitting in my garage. Blades were easy to
> change and to get resharpened. Replacements were cheap. Just the width
> restricted some work that it could do and it would always snipe the ends
> of the boards no matter how careful you were.
>
Lift the board as it enters and exits the Ap10 planer and you get, or at
least I got no snipe.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> > Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> > pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> > it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
> >
> > Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> > carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> > What do you guys think?
> >
> > More on my frustration here:
> > http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>
> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
>
> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
>
> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
> better)
>
> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
>
> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
>
> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
>
> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
>
> If you have a great amount of material to remove
>
> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
>
> with cutting oil.
For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
<http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
(as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
bitch.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > In article<[email protected]>,
> > [email protected] says...
> >>
> >> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> >>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> >>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> >>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
> >>>
> >>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> >>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> >>> What do you guys think?
> >>>
> >>> More on my frustration here:
> >>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
> >>
> >> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
> >>
> >> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
> >>
> >> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
> >> better)
> >>
> >> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
> >>
> >> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
> >>
> >> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
> >>
> >> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
> >>
> >> If you have a great amount of material to remove
> >>
> >> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
> >>
> >> with cutting oil.
> >
> > For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
> > <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
> > Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
> > cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
> > the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
> > dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
> > (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
> > positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
> >
> > To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
> > holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
> > others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
> > new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
> >
> > The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
> > hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
> > bitch.
>
> when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the
> (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know
> how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the
> holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond
> drills will work in this instance.
If you're using diamond with steel heat is your enemy. Remember that
carbon is soluble in iron--get above a certain temperature and your
diamonds just vanish into the surface of the steel, that then becomes
hard as Hell due to increased carbon content.
In article <[email protected]>, tiredofspam
says...
>
> Ok , I'll bite. What temp would be required to turn diamonds into a
> liquid? Does this really happen hogging out a hole in steel or are you
> just showing your knowledge. 8>)
Carbon at ordinary atmospheric pressure doesn't melt, it sublimates.
And you don't have to get the whole workpiece that hot, just the surface
of the diamonds, I don't know the mechanics at a molecular level but I
spent a summer once cutting up iron meteorites with a lapidary saw.
You're sawing along as happy as you please then you let the blade heat a
little bit and it stops cutting, then you have to let everything cool
off for an hour--if you keep at it you make no progress on the
meteorite, instead the blade starts going away. I don't know the actual
temperature but at that point the meteorite is hot to the touch and
there's smoke rising from the oil bath (the saw runs with the edge of
the blade immerses in oil). It's not red heat though.
Let everything cool down and you can cut again.
When I researched it I found that a boron nitride saw was preferred for
that kind of work because boron nitride isn't soluble in iron. I don't
know for a fact whether that's the case because the project wound down
about that time and never had a chance to try one.
Whether the same would happen grinding holes is going to depend on how
long you're grinding and what pressure you apply. Use a light feed and
low speed with lots of coolant and you should be fine. A heavier feed
should do the same thing to your grinder that a meteorite does to a saw
blade.
> On 3/14/2012 1:02 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > In article<[email protected]>, [email protected]
> > says...
> >>
> >> On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> >>> In article<[email protected]>,
> >>> [email protected] says...
> >>>>
> >>>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> >>>>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> >>>>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> >>>>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> >>>>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> >>>>> What do you guys think?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> More on my frustration here:
> >>>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
> >>>>
> >>>> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
> >>>>
> >>>> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
> >>>>
> >>>> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
> >>>> better)
> >>>>
> >>>> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
> >>>>
> >>>> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
> >>>>
> >>>> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
> >>>>
> >>>> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
> >>>>
> >>>> If you have a great amount of material to remove
> >>>>
> >>>> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
> >>>>
> >>>> with cutting oil.
> >>>
> >>> For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
> >>> <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
> >>> Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
> >>> cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
> >>> the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
> >>> dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
> >>> (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
> >>> positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
> >>>
> >>> To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
> >>> holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
> >>> others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
> >>> new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
> >>>
> >>> The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
> >>> hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
> >>> bitch.
> >>
> >> when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the
> >> (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know
> >> how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the
> >> holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond
> >> drills will work in this instance.
> >
> > If you're using diamond with steel heat is your enemy. Remember that
> > carbon is soluble in iron--get above a certain temperature and your
> > diamonds just vanish into the surface of the steel, that then becomes
> > hard as Hell due to increased carbon content.
> >
> >
Leon wrote:
> On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
>> easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
>> surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
>> cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
>> goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
>> the knives - one per side). Cake.
>
> Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold
> the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
> Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you
> can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
> I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened
> differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain
> point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think
> about.
>
>
>>
>> The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old
>> planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time
>> (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but
>> springs and a jig which came with the planer.
>>
>> I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if
>> they thought they were making things easier.
>
> Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first
> bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had
> probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit
> in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly
> fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place
> outside the planer. Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to
> simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to
> that first of its kind, Ryobi.
>
Same here. If I accidentally hit a nail, (which I did) The blades
could be staggered a little so the notches in the blades did not
coincide. this eliminated the bead that would otherwise be formed on
later boards. Sounds like the indexing pins would eliminate this
little trick.
--
Gerald Ross
If love is blind, why is lingerie so
popular?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that
> goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a
> cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very
> little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I
> need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the
> knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
I'm not a woodworker, in fact, I think wood is for
heating and
stone is for building but you are asking a
metalworking
question so I have a thought on this. That blade
is very hard
so you will have no luck with a standard drill
bit. You could do this
with a solid carbide straight flute drill but you
have to have a slow
speed chuck, fine feed and rigid workholding. They
are quite
expensive and can be easily broken if you do it
wrong. Here is
a link to them at MSC, they have what you need.
So, my
advice would be to bring it to a metal shop and
have them do it.
I suppose you could hone it out with a diamond
file but it may not
be accurate enough for locating a blade.
http://tinyurl.com/7a87v5e
On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
>>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
>>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>>>
>>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
>>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
>>> What do you guys think?
>>>
>>> More on my frustration here:
>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>>
>> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
>>
>> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
>>
>> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
>> better)
>>
>> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
>>
>> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
>>
>> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
>>
>> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
>>
>> If you have a great amount of material to remove
>>
>> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
>>
>> with cutting oil.
>
> For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
> <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
> Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
> cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
> the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
> dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
> (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
> positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
>
> To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
> holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
> others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
> new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
>
> The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
> hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
> bitch.
when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the
(very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know
how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the
holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond
drills will work in this instance.
In article <cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
>pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
>it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
>Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
>carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
>What do you guys think?
>
>More on my frustration here:
>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
If the hole size is not critical, you could use a carbide or diamond bit
in a die grinder. They are commonly pneumatic powered and reasonably priced
if you have an air compressor adequate to power one. Here's an electric
version from HF that is a good value for the price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-44141.html
It's about 3 times as big and heavy as a pneumatic tool but I've found
it very useful, even though I do have an air compressor.
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
That would depend on the metal you were cutting. Aluminum and Titanium I
could see that happening with. Very gummy metals. Hardened steel....
less likely.
On 3/13/2012 11:54 AM, chaniarts wrote:
> On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> [email protected] says...
>>>
>>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
>>>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
>>>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>>>>
>>>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
>>>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
>>>> What do you guys think?
>>>>
>>>> More on my frustration here:
>>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>>>
>>> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
>>>
>>> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
>>>
>>> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard
>>> File or
>>> better)
>>>
>>> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
>>>
>>> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
>>>
>>> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
>>>
>>> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
>>>
>>> If you have a great amount of material to remove
>>>
>>> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
>>>
>>> with cutting oil.
>>
>> For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
>> <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
>> Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
>> cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
>> the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
>> dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
>> (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
>> positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
>>
>> To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
>> holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
>> others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
>> new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
>>
>> The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
>> hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
>> bitch.
>
> when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the
> (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know
> how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the
> holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond
> drills will work in this instance.
>
On 3/13/2012 12:07 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 13, 7:36 am, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>> On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
>>> easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a
>>> surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the
>>> cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which
>>> goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers
>>> the knives - one per side). Cake.
>>
>> Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold
>> the blade while tightening the retaining bolts.
>> Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you
>> can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig.
>> I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened
>> differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain
>> point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think
>> about.
>
>
> Good point. I don't know if they edge is different steel or not.
> Dewalt refers to the knives as M2 Laminated high speed steel. Is
> there one layer of M2 laminated on the outside or is it laminated with
> M2 in between other layers of steel. ??
>
Look carefully at the end of the blade, the Ryobi knivws had a
lamination at the cutting edge that was about 5/16 wide IIRC. The
cutting steel was only at the cutting edge.
On 3/12/2012 7:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>
> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
> What do you guys think?
>
> More on my frustration here:
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
Solid carbide ball nose end mill and rigid setup solidly clamped to a
drill press table. I don't know how hard the material is but I would
start with the slowest speed the drill press allows with a light but
firm feed (don't bounce the cutter). If it doesn't cut at first (no
chips) don't force it, try a bit more speed until it bites. Once it
bites (starts throwing chips) it will go through like butter.
Do your best to center the cutter in the existing hole and use oil as a
lubricant, whatever you have on hand, but you won't need a lot.
John
Ok , I'll bite. What temp would be required to turn diamonds into a
liquid? Does this really happen hogging out a hole in steel or are you
just showing your knowledge. 8>)
On 3/14/2012 1:02 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>>
>> On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>> [email protected] says...
>>>>
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:cb0046d7-28dd-4c6d-99d8-eebbf559341c@p12g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>>>> Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
>>>>> pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and
>>>>> it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or
>>>>> carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop?
>>>>> What do you guys think?
>>>>>
>>>>> More on my frustration here:
>>>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
>>>>
>>>> When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand.
>>>>
>>>> First it is a must to use good cutting oil.
>>>>
>>>> Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round Bastard File or
>>>> better)
>>>>
>>>> to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes.
>>>>
>>>> If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to
>>>>
>>>> give you an idea of how much material you are removing.
>>>>
>>>> Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file.
>>>>
>>>> If you have a great amount of material to remove
>>>>
>>>> you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling
>>>>
>>>> with cutting oil.
>>>
>>> For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at
>>> <http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-Replaceable-Knives-13-
>>> Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB>. This is the part that he's working with. The
>>> cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in
>>> the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the
>>> dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom
>>> (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly
>>> positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches.
>>>
>>> To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin
>>> holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the
>>> others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a
>>> new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes.
>>>
>>> The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but
>>> hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a
>>> bitch.
>>
>> when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the
>> (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know
>> how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the
>> holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond
>> drills will work in this instance.
>
> If you're using diamond with steel heat is your enemy. Remember that
> carbon is soluble in iron--get above a certain temperature and your
> diamonds just vanish into the surface of the steel, that then becomes
> hard as Hell due to increased carbon content.
>
>