We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long
Jerry
Jerome Ranch wrote:
> We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
> I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
> I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
> Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
> top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
> around the entire house.
> So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
> Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
> hold pieces that long
>
>
> Jerry
first check that the wall it butts up against is straight. few are. if
the wall isn't good and straight, you'll do better to scribe the
molding to the wall with a jigsaw or block plane.
This was a great idea to all that suggested it..didn't have an DS tape
and didn't want to run our for it.
Tried it this AM..due for a winter storm here in Iowa this PM, so I
wanted to get this done ASAP
Used a 8" width and 8' long plywood I had, countersunk some drill
holes in the back side and mounted my oak through the back with some
small screws
Ran it through..famous results..fits perfect, wife loves me..thanks
Jerry
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:39:17 -0600, [email protected] ()
wrote:
>
>What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
>wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
>cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
>edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
>TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
>through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
>many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.
I don't have the high quality planes to do this.
The trim is 3/.4" thick - and I'd have to plane up to an inch..or
would you rough cut with a hand saw first?
Jerry
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 06:19:25 -0500, Joe <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
>>I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
>>I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
>>Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
>>top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
>>around the entire house.
>>So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
>>Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
>>hold pieces that long
>>
>>
>>Jerry
>
>Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically,
>I mark it and use Planes.
The easy way is to first bevel the edge, then mark it. That way you
need only plane a small amount, not the full board thickness.
dadiOH
_____________
Jerome Ranch wrote:
> I don't have the high quality planes to do this.
>
> The trim is 3/.4" thick - and I'd have to plane up to an inch..or
> would you rough cut with a hand saw first?
>
> Jerry
>
>
> On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 06:19:25 -0500, Joe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
>>> I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim
>>> pieces I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular
>>> wall. Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5"
>>> at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim
>>> is 3.5" around the entire house.
>>> So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
>>> Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it
>>> won't hold pieces that long
>>>
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>
>> Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically,
>> I mark it and use Planes.
Jerome Ranch wrote:
> We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
> I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
> I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
> Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
> top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
> around the entire house.
> So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
> Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
> hold pieces that long
Just toggle or otherwise clamp it to an 8' piece of ply a few inches
wide so it overhangs the ply as you wish.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Jerome Ranch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
> Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
> hold pieces that long
Do you have anything that long like a metal rod or piece of wood that's
straight and fairly firm in structure? You could align it with your tablesaw
and shim it so that you get a taper.
In article <[email protected]>,
Jerome Ranch <[email protected]> wrote:
>We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
>I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
>I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
>Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
>top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
>around the entire house.
>So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
>Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
>hold pieces that long
>
>
>Jerry
What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Jerome Ranch wrote:
> This was a great idea to all that suggested it..didn't have an DS tape
> and didn't want to run our for it.
> Tried it this AM..due for a winter storm here in Iowa this PM, so I
> wanted to get this done ASAP
>
> Used a 8" width and 8' long plywood I had, countersunk some drill
> holes in the back side and mounted my oak through the back with some
> small screws
>
> Ran it through..famous results..fits perfect, wife loves me..thanks
Be sure to tell stryped :)
--
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I LIKE IT
thanks Jerry
>
>What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
>wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
>cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
>edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
>TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
>through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
>many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:13:53 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Just toggle or otherwise clamp it to an 8' piece of ply a few inches
>wide so it overhangs the ply as you wish.
Hotglue works for me.
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch <[email protected]>
wrote:
>We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
>I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
>I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
>Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
>top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
>around the entire house.
>So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
>Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
>hold pieces that long
>
>
>Jerry
Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically,
I mark it and use Planes.
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch <[email protected]>
wrote:
>We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
>I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
>I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
>Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
>top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
>around the entire house.
>So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
>Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
>hold pieces that long
You could draw the line and cut it with a:
Hand plane
Power hand plane
Router and pattern bit and straight edge
Hand saw
Circular or jig saw, cleaning up with a jointer, belt sander, or plane
Freehand on a band saw, cleaning up as above
Or what the others told you on your table saw.
Barry