SawStop arbor Bearings

On Apr 9, 9:43=A0pm, woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:

> I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
> fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
> highly regarded in the field.
> He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.
>
> I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
> nor how much wood working he does.

It doesn't matter how much woodwork he does. Accidents happen, and
that is all there is to it.

Some on this group have expressed their displeasure of using different
safety devices, and I certainly wouldn't deprive them of using their
nose as a push stick when using their table saw if they wanted to. I
have no concern for them.

But for me, I always think of how fast I have seen industrial
accidents happen... fingers removed, an arm torn out of the socket, an
asphalt compactor catch the edge of a pant leg and squish the leg out
of the pants leg, scaffold collapses (one on top of me with cinder
blocks and masons in tow), drill bits run through hands, sudden
electrical shorts in tool handles, nailgun misfires, and on and on...
it always makes me think of how little control we have of our
circumstances sometimes.

Getting hurt and sometimes permanently damaged is just part of the
package when you are a full time construction worker. And the reason
I said it doesn't matter is that fact that I have seen many a home
hobby or craftsman use tools in a <<much>> safer way than
"professionals" do. So back to the "it doesn't matter" premise. That
guy may have been the picture of shop safety, and he lost his fingers
anyway.

So if there something you could do to avoid a catastrophe, I am all
for it.

Get the 3 hp. When you are cutting with it, it sounds like you are in
a flying saucer, and the actual cutting is so smooth you may think the
saw isn't doing anything.

Robert

"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The Unisaw arbor bearing thread got me to thinking about the SawStop. I
> am considering the purchase of a SawStop and naturally I was wondering how
> the repair/replacement of the arbor bearings would be handled under
> warranty and or after warranty. I have heard nothing but good thing about
> the SawStop and the service that SawStop provides.
>
> Speaking with the SawStop rep a few minutes ago I inquired about this
> possible situation of having to replaced the arbor bearings. He indicated
> that because of the way the SawStop is constructed and the fact that the
> arbor assembly drops down below the table during a brake activation that
> the assembly is not "fixed" so to speak. It is relatively easily removed
> as a unit and is replaced as a unit. SawStop keeps exchange units on hand
> for this purpose. After warranty he indicated that they charge a very
> reasonable price for the exchange, charging only for the bearings that are
> being replaced.
>
> Now while reasonable cost is relative, it is nice to know that this
> service is being provided and that there would be no question as to how
> best to remove, replace, and or position the new bearings.
>
That is interesting and obviously a good service.

I am wondering just how many other saw makers offer similar service. I
guess if you go high end enough, this kind of thing may be common place.
But I have never seen it or heard of it. And I have crawled around under a
table saw a few times to fix/align something. And most guys I know who have
a shop are "fixers" and do their own repairs. But the above mentioned
service is a good thing.

The other thing I find interesting is that the whole arbor assembly drops
down. It is movable. I never thought about how it actually worked. But it
makes perfect sense. Think about it. If the sawing part of the saw is
movable, then it has to maintain perfect alignment while being able to be
stopped instantly and dumped beneath the surface. The sawing and stopping
are two diametrically opposed kinds of action. That is a tidy bit of
engineering there. And the parts involved would have to be heavy enough and
precision enough to perform this "grabbing and dropping" function. And
still saw too.

I know that Gass is an overbearing asshole. But that saw is a very good
piece of technology. And if he is offering this kind of service to back up
this technology, then that is a good thing. Even if he isn't.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c9284242-cb4c-4834-9931-7b2e744f6ad8@r13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> Well...
>
> Scratch all that shit, eh?
>
Lighten up Robert. Your contributions are always appreciated. I enjoyed
your perspective and remarks.

"woodchucker" wrote:

> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
> up to every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a
> pretty good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so
> great on the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>
> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
> serious...
> I don't have to be stupid.
------------------------------------------------------------
A suggestion.

If you are serious about updating your saw as well as your D/C
system on a per tool basis, consider also updating the electrical
system for the S/S and D/C as follows:

Install a magnetic motor starter for the S/S that has under voltage
protection as well as an auxiliary control contact for the D/C.

Install a magnetic motor starter for the D/C along with a separate
"start/stop" push button station for the D/C as well as a "start/stop"
push button station for the S/S.

Interlock the P/B stations as well as the motor starters so that
when you start the S/S, the D/C is also automatically started.

When you stop the S/S, the D/C is also automatically stopped.

All other equipment that uses the D/C, uses the "start/stop"
push button station for the D/C.

As time passes and funds become available, other
equipment (Jointer, router, planer, etc) can have their
motor starters upgraded to magnetic starters.

Next thing you know, your done.

Lew

"woodchucker" wrote:
> Good info, but like I was telling Leon, my vac does a pretty good
> job of picking up the dust. I have it hooked to a Thien separator
> and every tools has a blast gate. I have a low voltage relay so each
> gate when opened will turn the system on. I want a DC but have not
> really needed it, except for the TS.. and maybe the bandsaw.
>
> I like what you have laid out, I'll save that info for when I do get
> the DC...
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The only thing that gets a little trickey are the motor overload
relays.
especially the S/S and the D/C.

If the motors have internal overload relays, you go one way,
if the use external overload relays, you go another.

External overloads are preferred for low voltage systems
described earlier.

Have fun.

Lew

"woodchucker" wrote:

> I had something similar.. I had a model airplane motor... a .60
> size motor chop the tip of finger pretty badly.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Been to that movie, have the scar on the back of my middle
finger of my right hand to prove it and that was over 60 years ago.

By chance, that wasn't an Olsen & Rice 0.60 was it?

Lew

"woodchucker" wrote:

> Nope, SuperTigre 60... It was re-worked with a hemi head, and I was
> going to the nationals the next week, so I was breaking it in..
> since it had just come back from the guy that built it for stunt.
> Still remember it like it was yesterday. I still wound up going to
> the nationals with my finger all wrapped up.
-------------------------------------------------
Different world.

Time brought a lot of change.

Lew

On Apr 10, 9:32=A0am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> My old
> craftsman would not pass the dollar bill test, you know the one where
> you lay the dollar bill on the table top, turn on the saw, and see of
> the bill falls off the table. =A0;~)

OK, now that was pretty damn funny. Might be using that in further
discussions with my colleagues!

> Anyway you have been in the business long enough to know what direction
> you want to take and how to make the numbers work out for you.

Well, it evolved. Like you, I started out young building and making
things. My mother still has a recipe box I made for her when I was 11
from old scrap plywood my Dad brought home from a
construction site. I even wood burned "Recipes" on it with my old
wood burning set.

Fast forward, and after a couple of years of training, I started my
first company at 21, doing all woodwork. The fun of my life now
became my job. My weekend hobby was something I did all day long. I
didn't have the money to be a contractor then, so I took all carpentry
work. Hung doors, made cabinets (sometimes a houseful), built decks,
etc. Anything with wood. All day long, 6 - 7 days a week.

As you become more successful, you need to become a better
businessman. Being a better businessman requires a lot of time and
effort, and worrying about the dollars. Then all purchases have to
"make sense". Labor has to "make sense". It becomes a lifestyle for
those that stick with it and all purchases have to "make sense".

> FWIW I don't do enough business building cabinets and furniture to
> actually support myself, rather enough to pay for all the equipment and
> have some thick gravy left over to make it all worth while.

With one income, bills to pay, and a company to keep afloat, it is up
to me to support the whole mess. With employees from time to time, it
ratchets that responsibility up even more. To me, work is work at
this point. The custom furniture guys have all gone out of business
here, as have most of the cabinets shops. There are still a couple of
large ones, but even the guys used to use to make my kitchen cabinets
are down to skeleton crews. And not one of those guys does it for
"the love of the craft" and hasn't for years. Like me, they turn out
as good a product as they can to satisfy their own personal pride and
to make sure they get a call back.

If I only did roofing, only did painting and refinishing, only did
remodeling, I wouldn't have a stream of work. I built houses for a
bit, and when the economy turned sour in the 80s, I had nothing to do,
but I did have an office, secretary, superintendent, employees and all
kinds of other overhead. But no houses to build....

I learned then to be flexible, and go where the work was. So the work
determines the direction of my company.

For years, I have told all of my clients to call me when they need
anything. If I don't or can't do what they want, I will refer them to
someone I trust. So I guess it is working in its own way... they seem
to call me for anything. And I keep them in my loop.

Robert

On 4/10/2013 1:25 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 10, 12:15 pm, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> .
>> Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
>> fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. That means
>> while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
>> where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
>> pressure painfull
>>
>> It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.
>
> Many years ago I cut the end off my middle finger (left hand,
> thankfully) with a circular saw. I was in a hurry and pissed off, and
> was adjusting the saw while yelling at my employees. My hand slipped,
> and I ran my finger across the spinning blade. It was a cold day, and
> the aluminum pieces don't work as well as they should outside, so the
> guard didn't fully close.
>
> Went to the doctor, and he clipped off the very end of the bone on my
> finger with a pair of small dykes since the blade splintered the bone
> and that made him afraid of infection. Put a couple of stitches on
> the end of my finger after pulling it shut like a sausage. It is
> slanted and a tiny bit shorter, but otherwise grew back fine.
>
> I'll bet that finger was sensitive for a few years. REALLY sensitive
> at first, then gradually it tapered off.
>
> It gets better...
>
> Robert
>


I never realized that you too were a gimp Robert. LOL

Unfortunately it gives us a real life perspective on things.

I look forward to your thoughts and use of the SS Industrial machine.
Seriously, when I used it about a year ago, I was so excited I almost
embarrassed myself. The machine I used was set up by the local
company that sells them, and they did a great job. I immediately set
out trying to figure out how to get one, how much I would use one, and
more importantly, where I would put it.

However, the work I have been doing the last few years has been so
varied, I can't justify one, try as I might. This is an example of
what I am doing now (compare this to the kitchen remodel at the first
of the year, and the deck I just finished). It is a 4000 sq ft
pavilion that I am stripping down and applying a coating from the
Sherwin Williams industrial coatings group.

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/RobertLWitte/PavillionPrep_zpse88bbf2e.jpg

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/RobertLWitte/Pavillionpaint_zpsc26e7c87.jpg

My work is so varied, I just can't sink that much money into a saw of
that caliber and feel I got the use I needed to out of it. I take the
jobs that come to me, referrals from my customers. I would like to be
in the same position as you and Karl, able to support myself with
custom woodwork, but sadly, *sigh* that isn't my choice.

After the pavillion, I have a roof to replace, a bathroom to remodel,
and possibly a set of built in cabinets to build. I take 'em as the
come.

You can bet though, that if I get the built-ins, I will be at that
SawStop if I can.

Robert

On 4/10/2013 9:11 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 8:08 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw
>>>>>> was
>>>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb
>>>>>> saw.
>>>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional
>>>>>> SS.
>>>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the
>>>>>> saw
>>>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>>>> blade
>>>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>>>
>>>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>>>>> up to
>>>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
>>>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
>>>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>>>
>>>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>>>>> serious...
>>>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
>>>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>>>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
>>>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
>>>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
>>>> is needed.
>>>>
>>>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
>>>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>>>
>>>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your
>>>> average
>>>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
>>>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
>>> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
>>> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
>>> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate and
>>> it turns the vac on.
>>>
>>> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
>>> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
>>> control it's decent....
>>> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
>>> way to go for me.
>>> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
>> the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at least
>> the 36" fence.
> I see the 30" as a 3hp.. but looking at the fence seems to be worth
> losing some realestate in the shop and getting the 6" that I don't
> really need. I have not needed a bigger table..
>
>
>
Are you looking here?

http://www.sawstop.com/products/compare/

The left two columns are the ones that have the 3hp option and I do not
see a 30" width available in those columns.

This is all very interesting Leon, and I hope you keep us all up on
your discoveries. I am like Lee on this, impressed by that simple
feat of engineering that could make changing the bearing so simple.

Many years ago a friend of mine had a cabinet shop, and their main saw
that was on all day long was an old Delta 12" industrial model. When
they needed bearings in that saw, it was a three day event. Finally,
they had a factory trained guy come out with a helper and they got it
down to one full day. They remove the top, take it apart as far as
they needed to, then took the fittings with the bearings in them back
to their shop to press the old ones out and press the new ones in.
Then back out on site after lunch, install the parts, then spend
another hour getting the top back on and to 100% true. Back in the
<<80s>> this was a bit over $300.

So the idea of simply taking out the necessary component to replace an
arbor assembly without removing the top seems almost genius. If I am
reading your post right, the new/replacement assembly comes with the
bearings in it, so if it is bolts off, bolts on, and running again it
may be genius. I can't imagine the time and effort it would take to
get a saw like that in to a repair center, much less all the time it
would take to set it back up when you got it home. Worse, think what
a house call would cost from an authorized, trained company rep.
Yikes!!

The cost of working on your own machines is affordable these days, but
having work done on them is just stupid expensive. I would certainly
be considering that aspect of your purchase since you are one that
will probably wear out bearings.

As a sidebar, I wore out the headstock bearings on my Jet mini (had a
helluva good time doing it!) and they wanted more than half the cost
of the lathe to replace the bearings at our local, authorized, factory
repair center. I talked to the guys at Jet, and the told me how to
get the bearings out myself with a brass punch, and to reseat them
with a tool I made out of wood on the lathe. The cost was two Timken
bearings...
about $12.

So for me, like triggers in my saws and drills, chucks for my drills,
and anything else that just wears out, the ability to repair the tool
myself goes a really long way in my consideration of purchase.

Seriously, keep us posted.

Robert

On 4/10/2013 8:08 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw
>>>>> was
>>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>>
>>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb
>>>>> saw.
>>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>>> weight.
>>>>>
>>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional
>>>>> SS.
>>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the
>>>>> saw
>>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>>> blade
>>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>>
>>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>>>> up to
>>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
>>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
>>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>>
>>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>>>> serious...
>>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
>>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
>>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
>>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
>>> is needed.
>>>
>>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
>>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>>
>>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your average
>>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
>>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
>> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
>> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
>> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate and
>> it turns the vac on.
>>
>> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
>> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
>> control it's decent....
>> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
>> way to go for me.
>> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>>
>>
>>
> There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
> the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at least
> the 36" fence.
I see the 30" as a 3hp.. but looking at the fence seems to be worth
losing some realestate in the shop and getting the 6" that I don't
really need. I have not needed a bigger table..



--
Jeff

On 4/10/2013 8:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "woodchucker" wrote:
>
>> I had something similar.. I had a model airplane motor... a .60
>> size motor chop the tip of finger pretty badly.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Been to that movie, have the scar on the back of my middle
> finger of my right hand to prove it and that was over 60 years ago.
>
> By chance, that wasn't an Olsen & Rice 0.60 was it?
>
> Lew
>
>
>
Nope, SuperTigre 60... It was re-worked with a hemi head, and I was
going to the nationals the next week, so I was breaking it in.. since it
had just come back from the guy that built it for stunt. Still remember
it like it was yesterday. I still wound up going to the nationals with
my finger all wrapped up.

--
Jeff

On 4/9/2013 11:36 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 9, 9:43 pm, woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
>> fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
>> highly regarded in the field.
>> He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.
>>
>> I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
>> nor how much wood working he does.
>
> It doesn't matter how much woodwork he does. Accidents happen, and
> that is all there is to it.
>
> Some on this group have expressed their displeasure of using different
> safety devices, and I certainly wouldn't deprive them of using their
> nose as a push stick when using their table saw if they wanted to. I
> have no concern for them.
>
> But for me, I always think of how fast I have seen industrial
> accidents happen... fingers removed, an arm torn out of the socket, an
> asphalt compactor catch the edge of a pant leg and squish the leg out
> of the pants leg, scaffold collapses (one on top of me with cinder
> blocks and masons in tow), drill bits run through hands, sudden
> electrical shorts in tool handles, nailgun misfires, and on and on...
> it always makes me think of how little control we have of our
> circumstances sometimes.
>
> Getting hurt and sometimes permanently damaged is just part of the
> package when you are a full time construction worker. And the reason
> I said it doesn't matter is that fact that I have seen many a home
> hobby or craftsman use tools in a <<much>> safer way than
> "professionals" do. So back to the "it doesn't matter" premise. That
> guy may have been the picture of shop safety, and he lost his fingers
> anyway.
>
> So if there something you could do to avoid a catastrophe, I am all
> for it.
>
> Get the 3 hp. When you are cutting with it, it sounds like you are in
> a flying saucer, and the actual cutting is so smooth you may think the
> saw isn't doing anything.
>
> Robert
>

I'll second Roberts recommendation on the 3hp model. That is going to
require you to at least get the Professional model. The SawStop in not
inexpensive, you might as well buy then one that will be your last TS if
you do buy one. And get a WWII full kerf blade too if you don't have
one. ;!)

FWIW I probably use my TS more than the average user and have never
wanted for more than 3hp. Go for more HP if you think you will be using
a power feeder all day long and might actually wear a 3hp motor out, not
because you think you will need more than 3hp. With 3hp I have resawn
Ipe, 2.5 times harder than oak, with the blade fully up and burried
inside the edge of that 1x6 board. No problem.

On 4/9/2013 10:24 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Well...
>
> Scratch all that shit, eh?
>
> Saw you purchased already on another thread.
>
> Could I change my request to "let us know what you think"?
>
> Robert
>


I'll keep us posted.

On 4/9/2013 10:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> This is all very interesting Leon, and I hope you keep us all up on
> your discoveries. I am like Lee on this, impressed by that simple
> feat of engineering that could make changing the bearing so simple.

Well more simple from the stand point of not having to actually R and R
the bearings myself, and I know that this may or may not be a big deal
either, cant tell you how many automotive wheel bearing races and axle
bearings I have r and r'd. This would be new territory for me.

>
> Many years ago a friend of mine had a cabinet shop, and their main saw
> that was on all day long was an old Delta 12" industrial model. When
> they needed bearings in that saw, it was a three day event. Finally,
> they had a factory trained guy come out with a helper and they got it
> down to one full day. They remove the top, take it apart as far as
> they needed to, then took the fittings with the bearings in them back
> to their shop to press the old ones out and press the new ones in.
> Then back out on site after lunch, install the parts, then spend
> another hour getting the top back on and to 100% true. Back in the
> <<80s>> this was a bit over $300.
>
> So the idea of simply taking out the necessary component to replace an
> arbor assembly without removing the top seems almost genius.

Iiiiiiii am not sure that top removal would be avoided, that may still
have to be done. BUTTTTT

With most any cabinet saw the removal of the table top is not that big
of a deal, it's getting it back in place aligned correctly that becomes
the issue, IMHO.

With the SawStop the reregistration and alignment is much less of a
task. With most cabinet saws the trunnion sets on the cabinet and the
top bolts to the cabinet. With the SawStop the trunnion bolts to the
cabinet but the top indexes in with a front pivot alignment pin on the
trunnion and you swing the back of the table back and forth to align the
blade with the miter slot. The front of the table does not move right
and left, rather it pivots back and forth. And the top bolts to the
trunnion after you have made that alignment.

See a couple of inside pictures of the one I am getting, the industrial
model. Notice the front indexing pin in the middle of the front
trunnion for the table to engage just above the elevation wheel.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8635558850/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8635558766/in/photostream/



If I am
> reading your post right, the new/replacement assembly comes with the
> bearings in it, so if it is bolts off, bolts on, and running again it
> may be genius.

That is the way I understand it. Hopefully it simply bolts on and off
but I would be surprised if the top does not have to come off.



I can't imagine the time and effort it would take to
> get a saw like that in to a repair center, much less all the time it
> would take to set it back up when you got it home. Worse, think what
> a house call would cost from an authorized, trained company rep.
> Yikes!!

Well I went with the hydraulic mobile base, 1000lb capacity. The saw
weighs in at 685lbs with 52" fence. So with a lift gate truck, hualing
it some where might not be a big issue.


>
> The cost of working on your own machines is affordable these days, but
> having work done on them is just stupid expensive.


I would certainly
> be considering that aspect of your purchase since you are one that
> will probably wear out bearings.

Jeez I hope not! LOL


>
> As a sidebar, I wore out the headstock bearings on my Jet mini (had a
> helluva good time doing it!) and they wanted more than half the cost
> of the lathe to replace the bearings at our local, authorized, factory
> repair center. I talked to the guys at Jet, and the told me how to
> get the bearings out myself with a brass punch, and to reseat them
> with a tool I made out of wood on the lathe. The cost was two Timken
> bearings...
> about $12.
>
> So for me, like triggers in my saws and drills, chucks for my drills,
> and anything else that just wears out, the ability to repair the tool
> myself goes a really long way in my consideration of purchase.
>
> Seriously, keep us posted.

Ill do that.



>
> Robert
>
>

On 4/8/2013 1:16 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The Unisaw arbor bearing thread got me to thinking about the SawStop.
>> I am considering the purchase of a SawStop and naturally I was
>> wondering how the repair/replacement of the arbor bearings would be
>> handled under warranty and or after warranty. I have heard nothing
>> but good thing about the SawStop and the service that SawStop provides.
>>
>> Speaking with the SawStop rep a few minutes ago I inquired about this
>> possible situation of having to replaced the arbor bearings. He
>> indicated that because of the way the SawStop is constructed and the
>> fact that the arbor assembly drops down below the table during a brake
>> activation that the assembly is not "fixed" so to speak. It is
>> relatively easily removed as a unit and is replaced as a unit.
>> SawStop keeps exchange units on hand for this purpose. After warranty
>> he indicated that they charge a very reasonable price for the
>> exchange, charging only for the bearings that are being replaced.
>>
>> Now while reasonable cost is relative, it is nice to know that this
>> service is being provided and that there would be no question as to
>> how best to remove, replace, and or position the new bearings.
>>
> That is interesting and obviously a good service.
>
> I am wondering just how many other saw makers offer similar service. I
> guess if you go high end enough, this kind of thing may be common place.
> But I have never seen it or heard of it. And I have crawled around
> under a table saw a few times to fix/align something. And most guys I
> know who have a shop are "fixers" and do their own repairs. But the
> above mentioned service is a good thing.

I never gave it much thought, the after the warranty service part, until
I visited the Hammer/Felder site. They have their own crew that goes
out and does delivery, maintenance, etc. I am sure that comes at a
relative price. I have replaced the motor on my old Jet cabinet saw, 13
years ago and replaced the start capacitor on the same motor. I can do
it, but I would rather some one else do it these days. All of that
stuff is heavy and too close to the floor and tucked inside of a box. ;!)

>
> The other thing I find interesting is that the whole arbor assembly
> drops down. It is movable.

Well I have noticed that the SawStop trunnion/innerworkings are much
more like the style that the Euro saws have, like the Laguna, Hammer,
Felder, etc. The American style saws trunnions move the blade up and
down on a pivot in a slight arc. The SawStop and Euro saws move the
blade/motor/arbor assembly straight up and down on relative large steel
dowels, the front "dowel" on the industrial SawStop appears to be over
1.5" diameter



I never thought about how it actually
> worked. But it makes perfect sense. Think about it. If the sawing
> part of the saw is movable, then it has to maintain perfect alignment
> while being able to be stopped instantly and dumped beneath the
> surface. The sawing and stopping are two diametrically opposed kinds of
> action. That is a tidy bit of engineering there. And the parts
> involved would have to be heavy enough and precision enough to perform
> this "grabbing and dropping" function. And still saw too.
>
> I know that Gass is an overbearing asshole. But that saw is a very good
> piece of technology. And if he is offering this kind of service to back
> up this technology, then that is a good thing. Even if he isn't.
>
>
>

On 4/9/2013 7:14 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I look forward to your thoughts and use of the SS Industrial machine.
> Seriously, when I used it about a year ago, I was so excited I almost
> embarrassed myself. The machine I used was set up by the local
> company that sells them, and they did a great job. I immediately set
> out trying to figure out how to get one, how much I would use one, and
> more importantly, where I would put it.

I will probably do a follow up on the experience along with a comparison
to my old cabinet saw.

>
> However, the work I have been doing the last few years has been so
> varied, I can't justify one, try as I might. This is an example of
> what I am doing now (compare this to the kitchen remodel at the first
> of the year, and the deck I just finished). It is a 4000 sq ft
> pavilion that I am stripping down and applying a coating from the
> Sherwin Williams industrial coatings group.
>
> http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/RobertLWitte/PavillionPrep_zpse88bbf2e.jpg
>
> http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/RobertLWitte/Pavillionpaint_zpsc26e7c87.jpg

Wow! What a painting endeavor! Did you find many bird/bug nests up in
that structure?


>
> My work is so varied, I just can't sink that much money into a saw of
> that caliber and feel I got the use I needed to out of it. I take the
> jobs that come to me, referrals from my customers. I would like to be
> in the same position as you and Karl, able to support myself with
> custom woodwork, but sadly, *sigh* that isn't my choice.

Well I can understand that but there are many jobs I would not have
tackled with out having the higher end equipment. . I am not sure if
that is because I needed to justify the cost or because I had more
confidence that I could do it. I think the later. The results are
simply better from a cabinet saw over a contractor saw, just the power
to cut through any thing you send through is a big plus. My old
craftsman would not pass the dollar bill test, you know the one where
you lay the dollar bill on the table top, turn on the saw, and see of
the bill falls off the table. ;~) The Jet cabinet saw often passed the
nickel test, I saw the SawStop industrial actually pass the "quarter
test". Anyway when you have the equipment you then to attract the
business and or take on the business that you might not otherwise.


I am not saying that I have to have an industrial SawStop over my old
cabinet saw however. My initial and continued feeling was that the
Professional SS was not a move up from my Jet other than the safety
factor. The Pro version would be in the same price range as a PM 2000
or the "new" Unisaw. I already had a cabinet saw that I was satisfied
with and I did not want to spend a bunch more money to just get the
safety feature so I went spent more to take that next step up from the
basic cabinet saw.

I am in a unique situation. From the time I was about 8 years old I
have been very interested in building. My professional career was in
the automotive industry in management and I used woodworking as therapy.
When I retired at 40 I already had a pretty good assortment of tools
which got me on the path to selling my work.


Anyway you have been in the business long enough to know what direction
you want to take and how to make the numbers work out for you.

FWIW I don't do enough business building cabinets and furniture to
actually support myself, rather enough to pay for all the equipment and
have some thick gravy left over to make it all worth while. I don't
always justify a purchase by whether it would pay for itself although it
almost always does. The nice thing about a SawStop is that the instant
you do something to trigger the brake, there is a very good chance that
investment just paid for itself.

While we all do our best to work safely in the shop, you never know what
might happen out of the ordinary. Sometimes we simply get tired and do
something stupid. What prompted me to get the SawStop was Kim. While
building the desk I was cutting some plywood panels to length. I was
using a very questionable procedure but with full knowledge of what
could happen. Long explanation short I got a kick back from the cut in
the 3/4" plywood and knowing that it could very easily happen I was
prepared and was able to hold the piece in place while the blade did its
thing on the bottom side of the panel. Kim about pooped. My blood
pressure stayed the same, I was prepared and not caught off guard, no
big deal, this time. Perhaps what may have lit the light bulb for me
was seeing the guy on YouTube purposely initiate a kick back and holding
the work down with push pads. He videoed and played back in slow motion
the kick back and it scared the heck out of me just watching how close
his came came to the blade as this all happened.

Granted what he did was on purpose but accidents can happen even if you
are not cutting wood and the motor has been turned off but the blade is
still spinning.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4 At about 2:30 minutes in.


>
> After the pavillion, I have a roof to replace, a bathroom to remodel,
> and possibly a set of built in cabinets to build. I take 'em as the
> come.

Cool!



>
> You can bet though, that if I get the built-ins, I will be at that
> SawStop if I can.

Well it is nice that at the least you have that saw at your disposal.

Good Luck!


>
> Robert
>

On 4/10/2013 11:13 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 9:11 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 8:08 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw
>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb
>>>>>>> saw.
>>>>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional
>>>>>>> SS.
>>>>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the
>>>>>>> saw
>>>>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>>>>> blade
>>>>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>>>>>> up to
>>>>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
>>>>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so
>>>>>> great on
>>>>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>>>>>> serious...
>>>>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the
>>>>> port at
>>>>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>>>>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
>>>>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
>>>>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times
>>>>> what
>>>>> is needed.
>>>>>
>>>>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions.
>>>>> I am
>>>>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your
>>>>> average
>>>>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
>>>>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
>>>> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
>>>> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
>>>> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate
>>>> and
>>>> it turns the vac on.
>>>>
>>>> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
>>>> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
>>>> control it's decent....
>>>> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
>>>> way to go for me.
>>>> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
>>> the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at least
>>> the 36" fence.
>> I see the 30" as a 3hp.. but looking at the fence seems to be worth
>> losing some realestate in the shop and getting the 6" that I don't
>> really need. I have not needed a bigger table..
>>
>>
>>
> Are you looking here?
>
> http://www.sawstop.com/products/compare/
>
> The left two columns are the ones that have the 3hp option and I do not
> see a 30" width available in those columns.
No I was looking at
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084907/39543/sawstop-3-hp-professional-cabinet-saw-with-30-premium-fence-system--pcs31230pfa30.aspx

While I did look at the sawstop site, I am probably buying from my local
Woodcraft, or Amazon

--
Jeff

On 4/11/2013 6:39 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/11/2013 5:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 11:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 9:11 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 8:08 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet
>>>>>>>>> saw
>>>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb
>>>>>>>>> saw.
>>>>>>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>>>>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a
>>>>>>>>> Professional
>>>>>>>>> SS.
>>>>>>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> saw
>>>>>>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>>>>>>> blade
>>>>>>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>>>>>>>> up to
>>>>>>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a
>>>>>>>> pretty
>>>>>>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so
>>>>>>>> great on
>>>>>>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>>>>>>>> serious...
>>>>>>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the
>>>>>>> port at
>>>>>>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>>>>>>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be
>>>>>>> able to
>>>>>>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to
>>>>>>> turn it
>>>>>>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times
>>>>>>> what
>>>>>>> is needed.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions.
>>>>>>> I am
>>>>>>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your
>>>>>>> average
>>>>>>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy
>>>>>>> a DC
>>>>>>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
>>>>>> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet.
>>>>>> Lined
>>>>>> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air.
>>>>>> it's
>>>>>> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> it turns the vac on.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
>>>>>> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
>>>>>> control it's decent....
>>>>>> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
>>>>>> way to go for me.
>>>>>> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
>>>>> the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at
>>>>> least
>>>>> the 36" fence.
>>>> I see the 30" as a 3hp.. but looking at the fence seems to be worth
>>>> losing some realestate in the shop and getting the 6" that I don't
>>>> really need. I have not needed a bigger table..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Are you looking here?
>>>
>>> http://www.sawstop.com/products/compare/
>>>
>>> The left two columns are the ones that have the 3hp option and I do not
>>> see a 30" width available in those columns.
>> No I was looking at
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084907/39543/sawstop-3-hp-professional-cabinet-saw-with-30-premium-fence-system--pcs31230pfa30.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>> While I did look at the sawstop site, I am probably buying from my local
>> Woodcraft, or Amazon
>>
> Well how about that! I wonder if this is a special build for Woodcraft.
>
> Well no, Rockler offers that one too. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
>
>
>
>
Clearly not as good a fence.
Going to take a look see again.

--
Jeff

On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>
>>
>>
>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw was
>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>
>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb saw.
>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of weight.
>>
>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional SS.
>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the saw
>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a blade
>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>
> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked up to
> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>
> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting serious...
> I don't have to be stupid.
>

The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
is needed.

The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.

Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your average
shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.

On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>
>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>
>
>
> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw was
> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>
> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb saw.
> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of weight.
>
> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional SS.
> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the saw
> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a blade
> guard with dust collection instead.
>
Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked up to
every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.

Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting serious...
I don't have to be stupid.

--
Jeff

On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:

>> Nice base.. a little pricey.



Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw was
$200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.

The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb saw.
My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of weight.

That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional SS.
This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the saw
up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a blade
guard with dust collection instead.

Well...

Scratch all that shit, eh?

Saw you purchased already on another thread.

Could I change my request to "let us know what you think"?

Robert

On Apr 10, 12:15=A0pm, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
.
> Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
> fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. =A0That means
> while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
> where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
> pressure painfull
>
> It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.

Many years ago I cut the end off my middle finger (left hand,
thankfully) with a circular saw. I was in a hurry and pissed off, and
was adjusting the saw while yelling at my employees. My hand slipped,
and I ran my finger across the spinning blade. It was a cold day, and
the aluminum pieces don't work as well as they should outside, so the
guard didn't fully close.

Went to the doctor, and he clipped off the very end of the bone on my
finger with a pair of small dykes since the blade splintered the bone
and that made him afraid of infection. Put a couple of stitches on
the end of my finger after pulling it shut like a sausage. It is
slanted and a tiny bit shorter, but otherwise grew back fine.

I'll bet that finger was sensitive for a few years. REALLY sensitive
at first, then gradually it tapered off.

It gets better...

Robert

On Apr 9, 12:41=A0pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast
dot net> wrote:

> Lighten up Robert. =A0Your contributions are always appreciated. =A0I enj=
oyed
> your perspective and remarks.

No worries over here, Lee. That was more of a comment on the fact
that << I >> started at the wrong end of the group to start reading.
In my blue collar vernacular that was more of a "well, *nuts* ".

I will be quite fine when Leon posts up his review. Although I have
no place for a saw like that, I made my mind up after using the
SawStop that if I were to buy a new table saw some time in the future,
it would be the SawStop. I am unconcerned with the politics of the
machine as that all happened years and years ago.

And... thanks for your kind remarks!

Robert

On 4/10/2013 12:15 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 10:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/9/2013 7:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/9/2013 5:40 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>
>>>> Congratulations , good purchase...
>>>> Hydraulic mobile base????
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks, Yeah the mobile base cradles the saw. In normal operating
>>> condition the saw is basically setting on a couple of straps which are
>>> setting on the floor. Give the foot pedal 3~4 pumps and a small bottle
>>> jack lifts the straps up and then the whole thing is riding on 4 swivel
>>> casters. Tap a toe lever and the saw floats down.
>>>
>>> The base only picks up the cabinet however the table extension comes up
>>> too. The angle irons that support the fence rail in front and that
>>> support the back of the extension table are about 1/4" thick so this is
>>> all quite rigid. I was concerned about the table sagging when elevated
>>> and unsupported but the SS rep indicated that there would be no sag, the
>>> table extension legs are only there to keep the saw from tipping
>>> should some one lean or sit on the end.
>>>
>>> Anyway,
>>> http://www.sawstop.com/industrial-mobile-base/
>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>
>> I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
>> fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
>> highly regarded in the field.
>> He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.
>>
>> I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
>> nor how much wood working he does. But he is now unable to be a mechanic
>> while the re-attached fingers heal.
>>
>> I'm going to have to think about this a little more.. but I am leaning
>> to biting the bullet for the pro 3hp, now before I regret not having
>> bought it.
>>
>
> I did not cut my fingers off, but last Thanksgiving I had a run in with
> my table saw. It abraded my index finger, and cut the flesh half off of
> my ring finger. They stitched the end back on.
>
> Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
> fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. That means
> while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
> where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
> pressure painfull
>
> It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.
>
>
>
Yup! Once you get home after being all stitched back up it still takes
quite a long time to get back to "what will be" normal with out pain and
hyper sensitivity.

On 4/9/2013 2:15 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 10:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> This is all very interesting Leon, and I hope you keep us all up on
>> your discoveries. I am like Lee on this, impressed by that simple
>> feat of engineering that could make changing the bearing so simple.
>
> Well more simple from the stand point of not having to actually R and R
> the bearings myself, and I know that this may or may not be a big deal
> either, cant tell you how many automotive wheel bearing races and axle
> bearings I have r and r'd. This would be new territory for me.
>
>>
>> Many years ago a friend of mine had a cabinet shop, and their main saw
>> that was on all day long was an old Delta 12" industrial model. When
>> they needed bearings in that saw, it was a three day event. Finally,
>> they had a factory trained guy come out with a helper and they got it
>> down to one full day. They remove the top, take it apart as far as
>> they needed to, then took the fittings with the bearings in them back
>> to their shop to press the old ones out and press the new ones in.
>> Then back out on site after lunch, install the parts, then spend
>> another hour getting the top back on and to 100% true. Back in the
>> <<80s>> this was a bit over $300.
>>
>> So the idea of simply taking out the necessary component to replace an
>> arbor assembly without removing the top seems almost genius.
>
> Iiiiiiii am not sure that top removal would be avoided, that may still
> have to be done. BUTTTTT
>
> With most any cabinet saw the removal of the table top is not that big
> of a deal, it's getting it back in place aligned correctly that becomes
> the issue, IMHO.
>
> With the SawStop the reregistration and alignment is much less of a
> task. With most cabinet saws the trunnion sets on the cabinet and the
> top bolts to the cabinet. With the SawStop the trunnion bolts to the
> cabinet but the top indexes in with a front pivot alignment pin on the
> trunnion and you swing the back of the table back and forth to align the
> blade with the miter slot. The front of the table does not move right
> and left, rather it pivots back and forth. And the top bolts to the
> trunnion after you have made that alignment.
>
> See a couple of inside pictures of the one I am getting, the industrial
> model. Notice the front indexing pin in the middle of the front
> trunnion for the table to engage just above the elevation wheel.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8635558850/in/photostream
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8635558766/in/photostream/
>
>
>
> If I am
>> reading your post right, the new/replacement assembly comes with the
>> bearings in it, so if it is bolts off, bolts on, and running again it
>> may be genius.
>
> That is the way I understand it. Hopefully it simply bolts on and off
> but I would be surprised if the top does not have to come off.
>
>
>
> I can't imagine the time and effort it would take to
>> get a saw like that in to a repair center, much less all the time it
>> would take to set it back up when you got it home. Worse, think what
>> a house call would cost from an authorized, trained company rep.
>> Yikes!!
>
> Well I went with the hydraulic mobile base, 1000lb capacity. The saw
> weighs in at 685lbs with 52" fence. So with a lift gate truck, hualing
> it some where might not be a big issue.
>
>
>>
>> The cost of working on your own machines is affordable these days, but
>> having work done on them is just stupid expensive.
>
>
> I would certainly
>> be considering that aspect of your purchase since you are one that
>> will probably wear out bearings.
>
> Jeez I hope not! LOL
>
>
>>
>> As a sidebar, I wore out the headstock bearings on my Jet mini (had a
>> helluva good time doing it!) and they wanted more than half the cost
>> of the lathe to replace the bearings at our local, authorized, factory
>> repair center. I talked to the guys at Jet, and the told me how to
>> get the bearings out myself with a brass punch, and to reseat them
>> with a tool I made out of wood on the lathe. The cost was two Timken
>> bearings...
>> about $12.
>>
>> So for me, like triggers in my saws and drills, chucks for my drills,
>> and anything else that just wears out, the ability to repair the tool
>> myself goes a really long way in my consideration of purchase.
>>
>> Seriously, keep us posted.
>
> Ill do that.
>
>
>
>>
>> Robert
>>
>>
>
Congratulations , good purchase...
Hydraulic mobile base????

--
Jeff

On 4/9/2013 10:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 7:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/9/2013 5:40 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>>> Congratulations , good purchase...
>>> Hydraulic mobile base????
>>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Yeah the mobile base cradles the saw. In normal operating
>> condition the saw is basically setting on a couple of straps which are
>> setting on the floor. Give the foot pedal 3~4 pumps and a small bottle
>> jack lifts the straps up and then the whole thing is riding on 4 swivel
>> casters. Tap a toe lever and the saw floats down.
>>
>> The base only picks up the cabinet however the table extension comes up
>> too. The angle irons that support the fence rail in front and that
>> support the back of the extension table are about 1/4" thick so this is
>> all quite rigid. I was concerned about the table sagging when elevated
>> and unsupported but the SS rep indicated that there would be no sag, the
>> table extension legs are only there to keep the saw from tipping
>> should some one lean or sit on the end.
>>
>> Anyway,
>> http://www.sawstop.com/industrial-mobile-base/
> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>
> I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
> fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
> highly regarded in the field.
> He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.
>
> I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
> nor how much wood working he does. But he is now unable to be a mechanic
> while the re-attached fingers heal.
>
> I'm going to have to think about this a little more.. but I am leaning
> to biting the bullet for the pro 3hp, now before I regret not having
> bought it.
>

I did not cut my fingers off, but last Thanksgiving I had a run in with
my table saw. It abraded my index finger, and cut the flesh half off of
my ring finger. They stitched the end back on.

Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. That means
while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
pressure painfull

It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.

"woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote

>>
> I had something similar.. I had a model airplane motor... a .60 size
> motor chop the tip of finger pretty badly. It looked like a cigarette load
> had blown it apart. Broke the bone at the tip and they said it was too
> chopped up to stitch so they just folded it back together it took a long
> time to heal then longer for feeling like you and Leon have described real
> sensitive, but not real feeling. now it's fine but still a little dead in
> the feeling..


RC, huh? Me too, still occasionally.

TS got my thumb long, long ago, while cutting alternating between 1x and 2x
stock and not lowering the blade. I reached across the blade to hold the
tail of the stock down, without lifting my hand high enough. It only cut
down almost to the bone. I was lucky to get a warning without losing my
thumb, like some here.
--
Jim in NC

On 4/9/2013 7:32 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 5:40 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>
>> Congratulations , good purchase...
>> Hydraulic mobile base????
>>
>
>
> Thanks, Yeah the mobile base cradles the saw. In normal operating
> condition the saw is basically setting on a couple of straps which are
> setting on the floor. Give the foot pedal 3~4 pumps and a small bottle
> jack lifts the straps up and then the whole thing is riding on 4 swivel
> casters. Tap a toe lever and the saw floats down.
>
> The base only picks up the cabinet however the table extension comes up
> too. The angle irons that support the fence rail in front and that
> support the back of the extension table are about 1/4" thick so this is
> all quite rigid. I was concerned about the table sagging when elevated
> and unsupported but the SS rep indicated that there would be no sag, the
> table extension legs are only there to keep the saw from tipping
> should some one lean or sit on the end.
>
> Anyway,
> http://www.sawstop.com/industrial-mobile-base/
Nice base.. a little pricey.

I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
highly regarded in the field.
He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.

I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
nor how much wood working he does. But he is now unable to be a mechanic
while the re-attached fingers heal.

I'm going to have to think about this a little more.. but I am leaning
to biting the bullet for the pro 3hp, now before I regret not having
bought it.

--
Jeff

On 4/9/2013 5:40 PM, woodchucker wrote:

> Congratulations , good purchase...
> Hydraulic mobile base????
>


Thanks, Yeah the mobile base cradles the saw. In normal operating
condition the saw is basically setting on a couple of straps which are
setting on the floor. Give the foot pedal 3~4 pumps and a small bottle
jack lifts the straps up and then the whole thing is riding on 4 swivel
casters. Tap a toe lever and the saw floats down.

The base only picks up the cabinet however the table extension comes up
too. The angle irons that support the fence rail in front and that
support the back of the extension table are about 1/4" thick so this is
all quite rigid. I was concerned about the table sagging when elevated
and unsupported but the SS rep indicated that there would be no sag, the
table extension legs are only there to keep the saw from tipping
should some one lean or sit on the end.

Anyway,
http://www.sawstop.com/industrial-mobile-base/

On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw
>>>> was
>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>
>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb saw.
>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>> weight.
>>>>
>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional
>>>> SS.
>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the
>>>> saw
>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>> blade
>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>
>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked up to
>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>
>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting serious...
>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>
>>
>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
>> is needed.
>>
>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>
>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your average
>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate and
> it turns the vac on.
>
> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
> control it's decent....
> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
> way to go for me.
> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>
>
>
There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at least
the 36" fence.

On 4/10/2013 7:31 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "woodchucker" wrote:
>
>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>> up to every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a
>> pretty good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so
>> great on the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>
>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>> serious...
>> I don't have to be stupid.
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> A suggestion.
>
> If you are serious about updating your saw as well as your D/C
> system on a per tool basis, consider also updating the electrical
> system for the S/S and D/C as follows:
>
> Install a magnetic motor starter for the S/S that has under voltage
> protection as well as an auxiliary control contact for the D/C.
>
> Install a magnetic motor starter for the D/C along with a separate
> "start/stop" push button station for the D/C as well as a "start/stop"
> push button station for the S/S.
>
> Interlock the P/B stations as well as the motor starters so that
> when you start the S/S, the D/C is also automatically started.
>
> When you stop the S/S, the D/C is also automatically stopped.
>
> All other equipment that uses the D/C, uses the "start/stop"
> push button station for the D/C.
>
> As time passes and funds become available, other
> equipment (Jointer, router, planer, etc) can have their
> motor starters upgraded to magnetic starters.
>
> Next thing you know, your done.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Good info, but like I was telling Leon, my vac does a pretty good job of
picking up the dust. I have it hooked to a Thien separator and every
tools has a blast gate. I have a low voltage relay so each gate when
opened will turn the system on. I want a DC but have not really needed
it, except for the TS.. and maybe the bandsaw.

I like what you have laid out, I'll save that info for when I do get the
DC...
--
Jeff

On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet saw was
>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>
>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb saw.
>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of weight.
>>>
>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a Professional SS.
>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick the saw
>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a blade
>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>
>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked up to
>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a pretty
>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so great on
>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>
>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting serious...
>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>
>
> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the port at
> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to turn it
> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times what
> is needed.
>
> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions. I am
> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>
> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your average
> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air. it's
quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate and
it turns the vac on.

I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
control it's decent....
Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
way to go for me.
Think I'll take a trip this weekend...



--
Jeff

On 4/10/2013 2:25 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 10, 12:15 pm, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> .
>> Point being it has been nearly six months and while I can use all of my
>> fingers, I can not put pressure on the end of the finger. That means
>> while I can use my table saw, any thing (hand sanding, car waxing, etc.)
>> where you put pressure on your finger tips is difficult, and if enough
>> pressure painfull
>>
>> It may be a long time be for he can do normal things with his fingers.
>
> Many years ago I cut the end off my middle finger (left hand,
> thankfully) with a circular saw. I was in a hurry and pissed off, and
> was adjusting the saw while yelling at my employees. My hand slipped,
> and I ran my finger across the spinning blade. It was a cold day, and
> the aluminum pieces don't work as well as they should outside, so the
> guard didn't fully close.
>
> Went to the doctor, and he clipped off the very end of the bone on my
> finger with a pair of small dykes since the blade splintered the bone
> and that made him afraid of infection. Put a couple of stitches on
> the end of my finger after pulling it shut like a sausage. It is
> slanted and a tiny bit shorter, but otherwise grew back fine.
>
> I'll bet that finger was sensitive for a few years. REALLY sensitive
> at first, then gradually it tapered off.
>
> It gets better...
>
> Robert
>
I had something similar.. I had a model airplane motor... a .60 size
motor chop the tip of finger pretty badly. It looked like a cigarette
load had blown it apart. Broke the bone at the tip and they said it was
too chopped up to stitch so they just folded it back together it took a
long time to heal then longer for feeling like you and Leon have
described real sensitive, but not real feeling. now it's fine but still
a little dead in the feeling..


--
Jeff

On 4/11/2013 5:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/10/2013 11:13 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/10/2013 9:11 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 4/10/2013 8:08 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 4/10/2013 6:36 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 6:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 5:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 11:14 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 4/10/2013 9:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Concerning that, the full mobile base for my old 50" Jet cabinet
>>>>>>>> saw
>>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>> $200, a hundred dollars less, 13 years ago.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The industrial SS requires a mobile bade that will handle a 685 lb
>>>>>>>> saw.
>>>>>>>> My old base probably would not have held up under that kind of
>>>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That said, through the end of this month SawStop will include the
>>>>>>>> Professional version mobile bade with the purchase of a
>>>>>>>> Professional
>>>>>>>> SS.
>>>>>>>> This is not the same mobile base as I am getting but does pick
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> saw
>>>>>>>> up and set it down. IIRC it is a $200 base. Or you can opt for a
>>>>>>>> blade
>>>>>>>> guard with dust collection instead.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Yea I see that. I don't have a dust collector, merely a vac hooked
>>>>>>> up to
>>>>>>> every tool. I simply sucks the dirt that drops into it. Does a
>>>>>>> pretty
>>>>>>> good job on the router, and jointer. ok on the bandsaw not so
>>>>>>> great on
>>>>>>> the ts until the whole bottom creates a funnel.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Don't know how that would affect the SS. But I am now getting
>>>>>>> serious...
>>>>>>> I don't have to be stupid.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The SS has a 4" hose leading from the blade capture area to the
>>>>>> port at
>>>>>> the back of the saw. IIRC SS indicates as little as 350CFM which is
>>>>>> pretty small amount. I wold think that the shop vac might be able to
>>>>>> keep up and or clear the hose providing you did not for get to
>>>>>> turn it
>>>>>> on. FWIW a typical regular sized dust collector will pull 3 times
>>>>>> what
>>>>>> is needed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The SS guys are very knowledgeable and eager to answer questions.
>>>>>> I am
>>>>>> sure they could tell you if you vac would be adequate.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Having said that a DC would be a heck of a lot quieter than your
>>>>>> average
>>>>>> shop vac. You might want to make a deal with your dealer to buy a DC
>>>>>> too. :~) SawStop is like Festool, no deals.
>>>>> Actually my shop vac has been enclosed in a sound proof cabinet. Lined
>>>>> it with Carpet that I picked up, and chambers to redirect the air.
>>>>> it's
>>>>> quiet. I have blast gates on all the machines. I open the blast gate
>>>>> and
>>>>> it turns the vac on.
>>>>>
>>>>> I might have to buy a HF electric winch to lower it to the basement.
>>>>> roll it down the stairs (prepared with planks) and use the winch to
>>>>> control it's decent....
>>>>> Was looking at the 30" it has a lower end fence, the 36" might be the
>>>>> way to go for me.
>>>>> Think I'll take a trip this weekend...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> There are two Pro versions. The one with the 30" capacity is strictly
>>>> the 1.75hp version. So If you want the 3hp you have to go with at
>>>> least
>>>> the 36" fence.
>>> I see the 30" as a 3hp.. but looking at the fence seems to be worth
>>> losing some realestate in the shop and getting the 6" that I don't
>>> really need. I have not needed a bigger table..
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Are you looking here?
>>
>> http://www.sawstop.com/products/compare/
>>
>> The left two columns are the ones that have the 3hp option and I do not
>> see a 30" width available in those columns.
> No I was looking at
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084907/39543/sawstop-3-hp-professional-cabinet-saw-with-30-premium-fence-system--pcs31230pfa30.aspx
>
>
> While I did look at the sawstop site, I am probably buying from my local
> Woodcraft, or Amazon
>
Well how about that! I wonder if this is a special build for Woodcraft.

Well no, Rockler offers that one too. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

On 4/9/2013 9:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/9/2013 7:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/9/2013 5:40 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>>> Congratulations , good purchase...
>>> Hydraulic mobile base????
>>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Yeah the mobile base cradles the saw. In normal operating
>> condition the saw is basically setting on a couple of straps which are
>> setting on the floor. Give the foot pedal 3~4 pumps and a small bottle
>> jack lifts the straps up and then the whole thing is riding on 4 swivel
>> casters. Tap a toe lever and the saw floats down.
>>
>> The base only picks up the cabinet however the table extension comes up
>> too. The angle irons that support the fence rail in front and that
>> support the back of the extension table are about 1/4" thick so this is
>> all quite rigid. I was concerned about the table sagging when elevated
>> and unsupported but the SS rep indicated that there would be no sag, the
>> table extension legs are only there to keep the saw from tipping
>> should some one lean or sit on the end.
>>
>> Anyway,
>> http://www.sawstop.com/industrial-mobile-base/
> Nice base.. a little pricey.
>
> I don't remember if I mentioned it, my wife's friend's husband cut his
> fingers off a few weeks ago. He is a high end auto mechanic, and is
> highly regarded in the field.
> He was cutting on his table saw at home and kick back took the fingers.

FWIW I cut half my left thumb off 24 years ago with a TS. I had
completed the cut and turned the motor off but got in a hurry to remove
the rip fence before the dado blade coasted to a stop. I never realized
how it happened until it almost happened again about 1 year later. I
had always thought it was a kick back although after coming back from
the hospital I found my completed stack of wood so that was not a
possibility. A year later I felt the wind of the saw blade as I made
that dumb move again. Thank goodness I only had half of a thumb this
time. ;~)

There are simply not enough safety rules to cover every type situation
and on top of that we being humans we are subject to making mistakes.

I can tell you that you wife's friends husband will have "EXTREME"
sensitivity in those fingers for a very long time. Nerves are no longer
in their natural location and you have to become accustomed to the way
things feel.


>
> I have always been safe, but you never know. I don't know him personally
> nor how much wood working he does. But he is now unable to be a mechanic
> while the re-attached fingers heal.

Tragic

>
> I'm going to have to think about this a little more.. but I am leaning
> to biting the bullet for the pro 3hp, now before I regret not having
> bought it.
>
Well if you can afford it it is a nice insurance policy.

There is a guy that tells about his experience of cutting his fingers,
he says that if you cannot afford to loose a finger, you can afford a
SawStop.