James Harvey wrote:
> How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
> some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
How valuable is your time? If the finish is polyurethane, and the door is
just a plain "slab" luan sheeted door, I suggest replacing the door. They
cost about $20-$25.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productList&catalogId=INTERIOR_SLAB
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
Rob Bowman wrote:
>>People are staining wood with sh*t?
>
> Not deliberately. Only when there's a finger/powertool near-miss
> incident.
So now you're saying woodworkers bleed sh*t?
This is getting weird.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Thu, 02 Oct 2003 08:42:47 -0400, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Rob Bowman wrote:
>
>>>People are staining wood with sh*t?
>>
>> Not deliberately. Only when there's a finger/powertool near-miss
>> incident.
>
>So now you're saying woodworkers bleed sh*t?
No. That really would be weird. I said "near-miss incident".
in article [email protected], Larry Jaques at
jake@di/ersify.com wrote on 9/25/03 6:04 PM:
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:56:13 -0500, "James Harvey"
> <nospam@spamzap,net.invalid> pixelated:
>
>>>> How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
>>>> some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
>>>
>>> Heat to 1200°F for one hour. Yeah, that oughta handle it.
>
>> Believe me, if the expense of buying new doors wasn't a problem, I'd turn
>> them to ash rather quickly. In lieu of that solution, any ideas?
>
> I'm hoping you meant "strip and reFINISH", not stain.
>
> Here's what I'd do:
>
> Strip with a methylene chloride-based stripper.
> Wetsand with 320 grit and paint thinner and wipe dry.
> Wipe with lacquer thinner to finish cleaning it.
> Wipe with linseed oil to check for even color. (If it
> had been painted/stained, you'll see it here. G'luck.
> If you're going to stain it, do it before the Waterlox.)
>
> Refinish with Waterlox, a nice tung oil and varnish mix.
> 2 or 3 coats will do. (Now it's too glossy for me so I'd
> let it sit for a couple days to harden thoroughly.)
>
> Degloss with 0000 steel wool coated with Johnson's paste
> wax. Buff to an even matte finish.
>
>
> --
> Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
> ---- --Unknown
Well, my intent was to restain, probably with a wood dye (tinted lacquer?),
to match other existing bifold doors. I was unaware that oil stains were
clear stains, as opposed to opaque stains, which actually color the wood, as
you know. The existing doors are prolly around 20 years old (they are
luan), and were dyed to a brown color. My only other choices are to find
some luan bifold doors and stain those, or remove the existing doors, strip
them, and refinish to match. Or I could just say screw it, and leave it all
as is. The mismatch with other doors doesn't look bad, just odd. I'm
trying to fix up the house for sale.
<Sigh>. I never realized what kind of skill and talent it takes to do this
kind of stuff. But I'm fairly patient and have time to learn.
TIA,
James
in article [email protected], Larry Jaques at
jake@di/ersify.com wrote on 9/25/03 6:04 PM:
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:56:13 -0500, "James Harvey"
> <nospam@spamzap,net.invalid> pixelated:
>
>>>> How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
>>>> some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
>>>
>>> Heat to 1200°F for one hour. Yeah, that oughta handle it.
>
>> Believe me, if the expense of buying new doors wasn't a problem, I'd turn
>> them to ash rather quickly. In lieu of that solution, any ideas?
>
> I'm hoping you meant "strip and reFINISH", not stain.
>
> Here's what I'd do:
>
> Strip with a methylene chloride-based stripper.
> Wetsand with 320 grit and paint thinner and wipe dry.
> Wipe with lacquer thinner to finish cleaning it.
> Wipe with linseed oil to check for even color. (If it
> had been painted/stained, you'll see it here. G'luck.
> If you're going to stain it, do it before the Waterlox.)
>
> Refinish with Waterlox, a nice tung oil and varnish mix.
> 2 or 3 coats will do. (Now it's too glossy for me so I'd
> let it sit for a couple days to harden thoroughly.)
>
> Degloss with 0000 steel wool coated with Johnson's paste
> wax. Buff to an even matte finish.
>
>
> --
> Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
> ---- --Unknown
Great advice! Your method seems to work well. The only problem I'm seeing
is absorption of oil-based stain. It ponds, which tells me there is
probably still some stuff in the pores, but it IS at least taking the stain
evenly. I might try wet sanding a with a heavier grit sandpaper first, then
switch to the 320 grit. In any event, your suggestions are producing far
more desiarable results than what I had originally planned.
BTW, I also want to restore the finish on all my stained door trim. It
appears to have a satin finish of some unknown type, and it looks rather
dull and dirty. What would be a good way to clean it without removing it
and freshen it up? Thanks again!
TIA,
James
On Thu, 02 Oct 2003 00:10:36 GMT, James Harvey <[email protected]>
pixelated:
>Great advice! Your method seems to work well. The only problem I'm seeing
>is absorption of oil-based stain. It ponds, which tells me there is
>probably still some stuff in the pores, but it IS at least taking the stain
>evenly. I might try wet sanding a with a heavier grit sandpaper first, then
>switch to the 320 grit. In any event, your suggestions are producing far
>more desiarable results than what I had originally planned.
Don't ask me about stain. I simply abhor the sh*t.
I'm glad I could help a bit.
>BTW, I also want to restore the finish on all my stained door trim. It
>appears to have a satin finish of some unknown type, and it looks rather
>dull and dirty. What would be a good way to clean it without removing it
>and freshen it up? Thanks again!
Soapy water (I like Murphy's Oil Soap) and a washrag work
wonders. If it's a persistent grime, find a semi-hidden spot
and try mineral spirits, naphtha, or denatured alcohol on it,
in that order. If it's shellacked, the alcohol will remove it.
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:56:13 -0500, "James Harvey"
<nospam@spamzap,net.invalid> pixelated:
>> >How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
>> >some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
>>
>> Heat to 1200°F for one hour. Yeah, that oughta handle it.
>Believe me, if the expense of buying new doors wasn't a problem, I'd turn
>them to ash rather quickly. In lieu of that solution, any ideas?
I'm hoping you meant "strip and reFINISH", not stain.
Here's what I'd do:
Strip with a methylene chloride-based stripper.
Wetsand with 320 grit and paint thinner and wipe dry.
Wipe with lacquer thinner to finish cleaning it.
Wipe with linseed oil to check for even color. (If it
had been painted/stained, you'll see it here. G'luck.
If you're going to stain it, do it before the Waterlox.)
Refinish with Waterlox, a nice tung oil and varnish mix.
2 or 3 coats will do. (Now it's too glossy for me so I'd
let it sit for a couple days to harden thoroughly.)
Degloss with 0000 steel wool coated with Johnson's paste
wax. Buff to an even matte finish.
--
Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
---- --Unknown
On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 23:30:20 GMT, James Harvey <[email protected]>
pixelated:
>How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
>some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
Heat to 1200°F for one hour. Yeah, that oughta handle it.
----------------------------------------------------------
--== EAT RIGHT...KEEP FIT...DIE ANYWAY ==--
http://www.diversify.com/stees.html - Schnazzy Tees online
----------------------------------------------------------
"Larry Jaques" <jake@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 23:30:20 GMT, James Harvey <[email protected]>
> pixelated:
>
> >How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and restain
> >some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
>
> Heat to 1200°F for one hour. Yeah, that oughta handle it.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> --== EAT RIGHT...KEEP FIT...DIE ANYWAY ==--
> http://www.diversify.com/stees.html - Schnazzy Tees online
> ----------------------------------------------------------
Believe me, if the expense of buying new doors wasn't a problem, I'd turn
them to ash rather quickly. In lieu of that solution, any ideas?
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> James Harvey wrote:
>
> > How? What if it has a polyurethane topcoat? I want to strip and
restain
> > some luan doors. Any advice appreciated!
>
> How valuable is your time? If the finish is polyurethane, and the door is
> just a plain "slab" luan sheeted door, I suggest replacing the door. They
> cost about $20-$25.
>
> http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productList&catalogId=INTERIOR_SLAB
>
> --
I just don't want to go thru mortising the hinges and lockset again. These
are new luan doors, but I don't like the way they look. Time is not a
problem if I can get them stripped properly. Any ideas?
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Don't ask me about stain. I simply abhor the sh*t.
People are staining wood with sh*t?
Is THAT what's in those Minwhacks cans???
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Thu, 02 Oct 2003 00:10:36 GMT, James Harvey <[email protected]>
pixelated:
>Great advice! Your method seems to work well. The only problem I'm seeing
>is absorption of oil-based stain. It ponds, which tells me there is
>probably still some stuff in the pores,
I forgot one trick I learned when removing the RBS and poly
on me mum's oak dining set. I used lacquer thinner and a
brass brush to get the dark crap out of the pores. This
helped remove it from the surface pores as well, so it
might help you now.