On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 16:59:17 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/17/18 2:36 PM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 9/17/2018 12:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 9/17/18 10:58 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>>>> On 9/17/2018 9:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>>>>>> Does it make any difference what kind?
>>>>>> If so, what brand do you recommend?
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
>>>>> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
>>>>> John T.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Is the floor sound and rigid? If so I always use Schluter Ditra. If
>>>> the floor is not absolutely solid then any concrete backer board your
>>>> local big box store has in stock should work but make sure it is
>>>> properly screwed down and taped.
>>>
>>> Don't you have this backwards?
>>> I was told by the Schluter reps that Ditra is great for use on floors
>>> that might have a little sag in them because the waffle design allows
>>> some give in the floor without effecting/cracking the mortar bed for
>>> the tile. It is also, of course, a moisture barrier.
>>>
>>> Concrete backer board is not and should not be used in an attempt to
>>> add rigidity to a weak subfoor. The purpose of concrete backer board
>>> is to provide a buffer zone for the moisture that will get under the
>>> tile. It won't expand/contract and/or rot with getting wet and drying
>>> out, like wood does.
>>>
>>>
>> No, I don't think that I got it backward although there may be a bit of
>> shading in my interpretation. Ditra is a fantastic product and does the
>> job of decoupling well but it still must be placed over a firm
>> substrate. Use it with big tiles and a floppy floor and you will find
>> the tiles actually cracking from the stress. Concrete board will
>> definitely stiffen a subfloor but it obviously won't overcome a sagging
>> rotted conditions . I still swear by Ditra for almost any installation
>> in a bathroom because of its waterproof nature.
>>
>
>I would encourage you to check into the facts about cement board.
>I contend that it will *not* stiffen a subfloor, nor is it intended to.
>It is a brittle material and not meant for strength.
>Not arguing, here, just offering advice.
By "concrete board" are you talking about Harie-backer or the
concrete-between-two-gauze-bandages stuff? Either way, after you mud
it in, it gets pretty damned stiff. I was told to have at least
1-1/2" thick floors under tile - any combination of plywood and
backer. I used 1/2" Hardie on 3/4" ply and 1/4" mud between, all
screwed every 6". Worked great. I've also used the cement stuff but
Hardie-backer is so much easier to use.
>
>
>> While I'm touting Schluter, their Kerdi membrane and foam shower beds
>> are great products for the DIYer too. I still haven't used their
>> Kerdi-Board yet but will definitely try it in the third bathroom when I
>> get up enough energy to start the project.
>
>Yes, I'm totally sold on all Schluter products.
>They rock.
On 9/17/2018 9:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>> Does it make any difference what kind?
>> If so, what brand do you recommend?
>> Thanks,
>> Mike
>
>
> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
> John T.
>
Is the floor sound and rigid? If so I always use Schluter Ditra. If the
floor is not absolutely solid then any concrete backer board your local big
box store has in stock should work but make sure it is properly screwed
down and taped. If an existing mud-bed floor is being demolished and
replaced I find that building the floor up with layers of A-C exterior
plywood, well glued and screwed, with Ditra over top is the easiest way to
go since in allows fine adjustment of the final floor height (although a
really good tile layer can get away with a bit more fudging than your
typical amateur).
On Wed, 19 Sep 2018 17:45:57 -0400, John McGaw <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/19/2018 4:28 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 16:59:17 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>snip...
>>
>> By "concrete board" are you talking about Harie-backer or the
>> concrete-between-two-gauze-bandages stuff? Either way, after you mud
>> it in, it gets pretty damned stiff. I was told to have at least
>> 1-1/2" thick floors under tile - any combination of plywood and
>> backer. I used 1/2" Hardie on 3/4" ply and 1/4" mud between, all
>> screwed every 6". Worked great. I've also used the cement stuff but
>> Hardie-backer is so much easier to use.
>>>
>snip...
>
>Well, what I am considering is the thick concrete-between-mesh stuff that
>is so difficult (for me anyway) to work with. The only time I've used the
>thin Hardiebacker was for a kitchen counter job when it was laid over a
>multi-layer plywood substrate and, in my inexperience, I over-engineered it
>by several hundred percent of needs. That counter top might well outlive
>cockroaches and kudzu.
BTDT! For a mantle over our woodstove in a previous (Vermont) home, I
built forms out of ply, then lined the inside with 1/4" Hardiebacker,
then poured 2" of concrete in the forms. When set, I flipped them
over and removed the forms, then tiled over the Hardiebacker. Each
half weighed more than 100bs but they didn't go anywhere. ;-)
Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
>According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile
>our floor. Does it make any difference what kind? If so,
>what brand do you recommend?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike
https://www.constructionprotips.com/tools-materials/which-tile-backer-is-best/
HTH
On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<[email protected]> wrote:
>According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>Does it make any difference what kind?
>If so, what brand do you recommend?
>Thanks,
>Mike
Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
.. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
John T.
On 9/17/2018 12:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 9/17/18 10:58 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 9/17/2018 9:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>>>> Does it make any difference what kind?
>>>> If so, what brand do you recommend?
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
>>> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
>>> Â Â Â John T.
>>>
>>
>> Is the floor sound and rigid? If so I always use Schluter Ditra. If the
>> floor is not absolutely solid then any concrete backer board your local
>> big box store has in stock should work but make sure it is properly
>> screwed down and taped.
>
> Don't you have this backwards?
> I was told by the Schluter reps that Ditra is great for use on floors that
> might have a little sag in them because the waffle design allows some give
> in the floor without effecting/cracking the mortar bed for the tile. It is
> also, of course, a moisture barrier.
>
> Concrete backer board is not and should not be used in an attempt to add
> rigidity to a weak subfoor. The purpose of concrete backer board is to
> provide a buffer zone for the moisture that will get under the tile. It
> won't expand/contract and/or rot with getting wet and drying out, like wood
> does.
>
>
No, I don't think that I got it backward although there may be a bit of
shading in my interpretation. Ditra is a fantastic product and does the job
of decoupling well but it still must be placed over a firm substrate. Use
it with big tiles and a floppy floor and you will find the tiles actually
cracking from the stress. Concrete board will definitely stiffen a subfloor
but it obviously won't overcome a sagging rotted conditions . I still swear
by Ditra for almost any installation in a bathroom because of its
waterproof nature.
While I'm touting Schluter, their Kerdi membrane and foam shower beds are
great products for the DIYer too. I still haven't used their Kerdi-Board
yet but will definitely try it in the third bathroom when I get up enough
energy to start the project.
On Monday, September 17, 2018 at 8:41:20 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
> >Does it make any difference what kind?
> >If so, what brand do you recommend?
> >Thanks,
> >Mike
>
>
> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
> John T.
He said go to Home Depot, so I'm checking around first.
On 9/17/18 10:58 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 9/17/2018 9:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>>> Does it make any difference what kind?
>>> If so, what brand do you recommend?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Mike
>>
>>
>> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
>> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
>> Â Â Â John T.
>>
>
> Is the floor sound and rigid? If so I always use Schluter Ditra. If the
> floor is not absolutely solid then any concrete backer board your local
> big box store has in stock should work but make sure it is properly
> screwed down and taped.
Don't you have this backwards?
I was told by the Schluter reps that Ditra is great for use on floors
that might have a little sag in them because the waffle design allows
some give in the floor without effecting/cracking the mortar bed for the
tile. It is also, of course, a moisture barrier.
Concrete backer board is not and should not be used in an attempt to add
rigidity to a weak subfoor. The purpose of concrete backer board is to
provide a buffer zone for the moisture that will get under the tile. It
won't expand/contract and/or rot with getting wet and drying out, like
wood does.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 9/17/18 2:36 PM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 9/17/2018 12:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 9/17/18 10:58 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>>> On 9/17/2018 9:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 05:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> According to our tile guy, I need 1/2" backer board to tile our floor.
>>>>> Does it make any difference what kind?
>>>>> If so, what brand do you recommend?
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Buy the kind that your tile guy uses and recommends ?
>>>> .. rather than strangers on the internet - just a thought.
>>>> Â Â Â John T.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is the floor sound and rigid? If so I always use Schluter Ditra. If
>>> the floor is not absolutely solid then any concrete backer board your
>>> local big box store has in stock should work but make sure it is
>>> properly screwed down and taped.
>>
>> Don't you have this backwards?
>> I was told by the Schluter reps that Ditra is great for use on floors
>> that might have a little sag in them because the waffle design allows
>> some give in the floor without effecting/cracking the mortar bed for
>> the tile. It is also, of course, a moisture barrier.
>>
>> Concrete backer board is not and should not be used in an attempt to
>> add rigidity to a weak subfoor. The purpose of concrete backer board
>> is to provide a buffer zone for the moisture that will get under the
>> tile. It won't expand/contract and/or rot with getting wet and drying
>> out, like wood does.
>>
>>
> No, I don't think that I got it backward although there may be a bit of
> shading in my interpretation. Ditra is a fantastic product and does the
> job of decoupling well but it still must be placed over a firm
> substrate. Use it with big tiles and a floppy floor and you will find
> the tiles actually cracking from the stress. Concrete board will
> definitely stiffen a subfloor but it obviously won't overcome a sagging
> rotted conditions . I still swear by Ditra for almost any installation
> in a bathroom because of its waterproof nature.
>
I would encourage you to check into the facts about cement board.
I contend that it will *not* stiffen a subfloor, nor is it intended to.
It is a brittle material and not meant for strength.
Not arguing, here, just offering advice.
> While I'm touting Schluter, their Kerdi membrane and foam shower beds
> are great products for the DIYer too. I still haven't used their
> Kerdi-Board yet but will definitely try it in the third bathroom when I
> get up enough energy to start the project.
Yes, I'm totally sold on all Schluter products.
They rock.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 9/19/2018 4:28 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 16:59:17 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
snip...
>
> By "concrete board" are you talking about Harie-backer or the
> concrete-between-two-gauze-bandages stuff? Either way, after you mud
> it in, it gets pretty damned stiff. I was told to have at least
> 1-1/2" thick floors under tile - any combination of plywood and
> backer. I used 1/2" Hardie on 3/4" ply and 1/4" mud between, all
> screwed every 6". Worked great. I've also used the cement stuff but
> Hardie-backer is so much easier to use.
>>
snip...
Well, what I am considering is the thick concrete-between-mesh stuff that
is so difficult (for me anyway) to work with. The only time I've used the
thin Hardiebacker was for a kitchen counter job when it was laid over a
multi-layer plywood substrate and, in my inexperience, I over-engineered it
by several hundred percent of needs. That counter top might well outlive
cockroaches and kudzu.