The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.
I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?
Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)
On Sep 28, 1:14=A0pm, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
> ask, you don't learn)
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
>>> than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
>>> saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
>>> the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.
>>
>> Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
>> for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
>> the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
>> regular old pie tin for holding the solution.
>
>nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
>will.
Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.
I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
outside on windy days. <g>
SimpleGreen is much easier.
So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough. ;)
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:25:56 +0000 (UTC), [email protected] (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>>all likelihood.
>
>I'm inclined to agree. I don't see how overloading a motor would cause
>the brushes to fail, unless perhaps due to a heavier-than-normal arc
>causing excess erosion. I'd think that overloading the motor would be
>more likely to burn out windings.
>
>Besides, if the brushes failed, aren't they easily replaceable?
If the brushes get hot enough the brush springs loose tension - then
the brushes arc - which makes them run hotter - and the cycle repeats
itself.
rlz wrote:
>
> As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
> was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
> eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
> from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
> circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
> which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
>
Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
email.me:
> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
> ask, you don't learn)
>
If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.
Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?
Puckdropper
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 05:58:10 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 28, 11:39 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>
>> > On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> >> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>> >>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>> >>> on the motor.
>>
>> >> How is that?
>>
>> > less cut being made at a time.
>>
>> > if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
>> > then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
>> > full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
>> > making 1- 1/2" at at time.
>>
>> Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
>> you need a new saw and/or blade.
>> There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.
>
>
>My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.
AND a built-in guide.
LJ--I'm gettin' itchier.
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:42:13 -0400, FrozenNorth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/29/11 3:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 9/29/11 2:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>>> On Sep 29, 2:24 pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
>>>> In
>>>> article<15f9179a-f33b-491c-aff1-d1a4a339f...@db5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
>>>>
>>>> Father Haskell<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>>>> on the motor.
>>>>
>>>> Hmmm; never thought of that. Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> -Ed Falk, [email protected]
>>>> http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>> It will chip a lot more though....
>>
>>
>> Oh c'mon Rob, it's a small price to pay for a cooler blade. :-)
>>
>>
>If you want a cool blade, get some pinstripes and flame decals.
Or keep it in the FrozenNorth.
On Sep 28, 12:18=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>
>
> > The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> > specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> > succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
> > it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
> > a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> > This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> > I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> > pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> > also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> > brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
> > they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> > Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> > the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
> > (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
> > ask, you don't learn)
>
> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
> all likelihood.
>
> No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
> and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
> no-set finish blade...
>
> --
I have to think the brushes were on the way out anyway. I cut several
oak veneer six panel doors a year ago with a 30+ year old circular saw
with no power issues. I consulted with a finish carpenter and he said
the best way to ensure a clean cut, with the veneer doors, was to use
a new, inexpensive, carbide-tip, thin-kerf blade. Dewalt and Irwin
sell them for less than $10 at home improvement stores. That is what
I did, using a clamped on straightedge, and it was a no-brainer.
Don't forget to apply finish to the bottom fresh-cut edge and give it
time to cure before installation (especially above carpet)..
RonB
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 08:50:52 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
>work, although might be out side of your budget.
>http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-75-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561438.html
KNEW that was coming!
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:57:21 -0400, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
>Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
>reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.
>
>It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
>cutting if you will.
Not a good idea with brazed carbide blades though!!!
>
>On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> rlz wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
>>> was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
>>> eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
>>> from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
>>> circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
>>> which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
>>>
>>
>> Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
>> backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.
>>
On Sep 30, 8:51=A0am, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg Guarino<[email protected]> =
=A0wrote:
>
> >> On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
> >>> Set the blade to full depth. =A0Runs cooler with less strain
> >>> on the motor. =A0You don't gain any safety advantage by
> >>> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
> >>> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>
> >> I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
> >> half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
> >> either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
> >> remember it being a safety tip.
>
> > I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can =
clear.
> > Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.
>
> >> It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if i=
t
> >> is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
> >> present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
> >> for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through th=
e
> >> top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
> >> it more than if the angle had been smaller?
>
> > Yes. =A0More chipping. =A0TANSTAAFL.
>
> AITOOWDUTA?
>
> (Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)
>
> Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.- Hide=
quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
Rob
Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.
It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
cutting if you will.
On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> rlz wrote:
>
>>
>> As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
>> was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
>> eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
>> from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
>> circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
>> which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
>>
>
> Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
> backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.
>
On 10/1/2011 5:32 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:57:21 -0400, tiredofspam<nospam.nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
>> reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.
>>
>> It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
>> cutting if you will.
> Not a good idea with brazed carbide blades though!!!
Agreed... the ply blade was a finish ply ... steel plate. Yes you are
right the carbide might be quickly thrown off.. I own a Porter Cable
lefty saw. I mounted a blade backward one time by accident... The labels
are for righty saws... The carbide survived somehow... When I saw the
smoke from the burning I was confused, but stopped to look.
Boy what a dumbass I was.
>>
>> On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> rlz wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
>>>> was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
>>>> eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
>>>> from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
>>>> circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
>>>> which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
>>> backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.
>>>
>
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.
It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The overall
finish will be worse though. Now, can we have a three day thread on how to
sharpen a pointy stick?
On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
> ask, you don't learn)
Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-75-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561438.html
On 9/29/2011 9:34 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 08:50:52 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>> Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
>> work, although might be out side of your budget.
>> http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-75-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561438.html
>
> KNEW that was coming!
;!)
On Sep 28, 4:10=A0pm, Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 28, 4:09=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
> > > Set the blade to full depth. =A0Runs cooler with less strain
> > > on the motor.
>
> > How is that?
>
> Shorter path through the wood. =A0Easier for the gullets
> to eject chips.
Makes sense to me.
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 28, 1:14Â pm, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
>> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
>> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
>> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
>> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
>> This was a year ago, by the way.
>>
>> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
>> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
>> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
>> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
>> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>>
>> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
>> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
>> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
>> ask, you don't learn)
>
>Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
>setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.
On Sep 28, 4:09=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
> > Set the blade to full depth. =A0Runs cooler with less strain
> > on the motor.
>
> How is that?
Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 17:08:20 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
>> It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
>> overall finish will be worse though.
>
>I'll stick with the shallower cut then.
CW needs a new blade with more than 3 teeth left on it. Don't listen
to him. ;)
A layer of masking tape on both sides will keep chipping to a minimum.
Peel the freshly-cut-in-half tape off -toward- the cut to keep from
pulling chips up. Now seal that bottom WELL so it can't absorb water!
--
Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
> But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
>than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
>saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
>the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.
Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Sep 29, 2:24=A0pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>,
> Father Haskell =A0<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> >Set the blade to full depth. =A0Runs cooler with less strain
> >on the motor.
>
> Hmmm; never thought of that. =A0Thanks!
>
> --
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -Ed Falk, [email protected]
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
It will chip a lot more though....
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 23:29:11 -0500, Steve Barker
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
>>>>> than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
>>>>> saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
>>>>> the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.
>>>>
>>>> Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
>>>> for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
>>>> the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
>>>> regular old pie tin for holding the solution.
>>>
>>> nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
>>> will.
>>
>> Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
>> exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.
>>
>> I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
>> use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
>> to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
>> outside on windy days.<g>
>>
>> SimpleGreen is much easier.
>>
>> So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough. ;)
>>
>a: brakleen is not flammable
>b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar
>c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.
Hmm, the stuff I have now is not Brakleen, it's O'Reilly Brake Parts
Cleaner and it contains methanol, acetone, and toluene.
EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.
Brakleen containes Tetrachloroethylene, chloroethylene, and petroleum
distillates.
Hmm, NONflammable.
http://www.rwsidley.com/MSDS/crc%20brakleen.pdf
Brakleen non-chlorinated contains methanol, acetone, heptane, and
toluene.
EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.
http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5088.pdf
--
In the depth of winter, I finally learned
that within me there lay an invincible summer.
-- Albert Camus
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:19:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/11 5:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father Haskell<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>>>> on the motor.
>>>
>>>> How is that?
>>>
>>> Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
>>> to eject chips.
>>
>> Makes sense to me.
>
>It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.
Should get a cleaner cut with the depth set to minimum, too.
Second that!
Try one and you'll never go back
--------------
wrote in message news:[email protected]...
For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf
Diablo
blades.
On Sep 28, 11:39=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> >>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
> >>> on the motor.
>
> >> How is that?
>
> > less cut being made at a time.
>
> > if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
> > then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
> > full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
> > making 1- 1/2" at at time.
>
> Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
> you need a new saw and/or blade.
> There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.
My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.
Dougy posts "maybe and then maybe not" but just wants to be seen as an
expert without actually knowing anything.
--------------
"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
That's probably true.
-------------
> c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come
> off.
>
On Sep 28, 7:40=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Sep 28, 1:14=A0pm, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> >> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> >> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had don=
e
> >> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude mayb=
e
> >> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> >> This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> >> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> >> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> >> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> >> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety tha=
t
> >> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> >> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> >> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first=
?
> >> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid t=
o
> >> ask, you don't learn)
>
> >Set the blade to full depth. =A0Runs cooler with less strain
> >on the motor. =A0You don't gain any safety advantage by
> >setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
> >well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>
> =A0Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
> wood - meaning the least wasted power.
Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.
On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>> on the motor.
>
> How is that?
>
>
less cut being made at a time.
if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
>> than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
>> saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
>> the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.
>
> Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
> for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
> the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
> regular old pie tin for holding the solution.
>
> --
> Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
> -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
will.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote:
>> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
>> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
>> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
>> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
>> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
>> This was a year ago, by the way.
>>
>> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
>> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
>> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
>> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
>> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>>
>> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
>> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
>> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
>> ask, you don't learn)
>
> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
but you might cut the saw horse in two....
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
>> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
>> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
>> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
>> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
>> This was a year ago, by the way.
>>
>> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
>> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
>> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
>> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
>> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>>
>> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
>> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
>> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
>> ask, you don't learn)
>
>Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>on the motor.
Agreed!
>You don't gain any safety advantage by
>setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
Um, one shouldn't have their fingers anywhere -near- the saw blade
while it is cutting, Dad. Besides, your suggestion there just put
someone at risk of a multiple severing of fingers. Smooth!
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
>>>> than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
>>>> saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
>>>> the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.
>>>
>>> Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
>>> for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
>>> the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
>>> regular old pie tin for holding the solution.
>>
>> nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
>> will.
>
> Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
> exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.
>
> I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
> use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
> to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
> outside on windy days.<g>
>
> SimpleGreen is much easier.
>
> So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough. ;)
>
> --
> Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
> -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
a: brakleen is not flammable
b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar
c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
> This was a year ago, by the way.
>
> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>
> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
> ask, you don't learn)
I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.
No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...
--
Having a hard time forming a complete sentence with proper grammar?
------------------------
"Dave" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Certainly better than you're repeated demonstration of how to be an
asshole.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:38:22 -0400, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Dougy posts "maybe and then maybe not" but just wants to be seen as an
>expert without actually knowing anything.
Certainly better than you're repeated demonstration of how to be an
asshole.
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
> ...
>
>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
> ...
>
> ...it was just THEIR time...
That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>> ...
>>
>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>
> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>
> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
:) ) or a solid-wood door?
--
On Sun, 2 Oct 2011 08:34:44 -0400, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Having a hard time forming a complete sentence with proper grammar?
Honestly, the "you're" was inserted on purpose to show that you really
are an ass hole and a hypocritical one too.
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>>> ...
>>>
>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>
>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>
>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>
> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>
In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
In article <[email protected]>, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>all likelihood.
I'm inclined to agree. I don't see how overloading a motor would cause
the brushes to fail, unless perhaps due to a heavier-than-normal arc
causing excess erosion. I'd think that overloading the motor would be
more likely to burn out windings.
Besides, if the brushes failed, aren't they easily replaceable?
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>>
>>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>>
>> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
>> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>>
> In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.
Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
> on the motor.
How is that?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>> ...
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>>>>> ...
>>>>>
>>>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>>>
>>>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>>>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>>>
>>> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
>>> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>>>
>> In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
>
>
> It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
> frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
> matter. The door had nothing to do with it.
>
> Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
> was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
> through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
> wood, or termite vomit.
I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...
A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll
have better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score
the line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer
of masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.
--
On 9/28/2011 5:02 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in
>>>>>>> common w/
>>>>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there
>>>>>>> time in
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>>>>
>>>>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>>>>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>>>>
>>>>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>>>>
>>>> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
>>>> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>>>>
>>> In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
>>
>>
>> It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
>> frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
>> matter. The door had nothing to do with it.
>>
>> Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
>> was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
>> through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
>> wood, or termite vomit.
>
> I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...
>
> A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
> better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
> line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
> masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
> provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
> baseplate of the saw.
>
> --
Thanks. I used a knife and tape (and cut with the more important side of
the doors "down) the last time I did it. I plan to again.
Even though the saw had not been in any way over-used over it's
lifetime, I also suspected that the brushes may have been ready to fail.
But I've found that when I ask a question here, I frequently get good
advice from directions that I hadn't anticipated.
On 9/28/11 4:02 PM, dpb wrote:
> A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
> better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
> line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
> masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
> provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
> baseplate of the saw.
>
I've also applied a sacrificial base plate for a circular saw. This
protects the door from scuffs and it keeps the upper side of the veneer
from splintering.
1/8" to 1/4" Hardboard works great because of the smooth face. Carpet
tape works great for sticking the hardboard to the base plate of the
saw. Tape the hardboard on with the blade all the way up, then turn on
the saw and drop the blade into the hardboard. If you saw won't
completely hide the blade, use a smaller diameter blade with the same kerf.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/11 5:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father Haskell<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>>> on the motor.
>>
>>> How is that?
>>
>> Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
>> to eject chips.
>
> Makes sense to me.
It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/11 8:22 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> On Sep 28, 7:40 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
>>>> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
>>>> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
>>>> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
>>>> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
>>>> This was a year ago, by the way.
>>
>>>> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
>>>> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
>>>> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
>>>> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
>>>> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>>
>>>> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
>>>> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
>>>> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
>>>> ask, you don't learn)
>>
>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
>>> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>>> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>>
>> Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
>> wood - meaning the least wasted power.
>
> Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
> is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.
Well... there's always the fact that you might not want to cut all the
way through your saw horses or have to set your plywood up on the edges
of 2x4's to keep from cutting though your workbench or concrete floor.
In any case, I still contend it's a moot point. If you're blade is
running too hot or your saw is bogging down, it's time for a new saw
and/or blade.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/11 9:42 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Use a guide rail for the cut.
>
> Always.
I've but them with the little rip fence that attaches to my circ saw
with perfect results.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>> on the motor.
>>
>> How is that?
>>
>>
>
> less cut being made at a time.
>
> if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
> then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
> full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
> making 1- 1/2" at at time.
>
Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> Use a guide rail for the cut.
Always.
-------------------------------------------
Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.
I score both sides of the door, and stay about a 32nd back from the score
mark. No problems.
-- Jim in NC
On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Use a guide rail for the cut.
>
> Always.
> -------------------------------------------
> Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.
>
Exactly why I use the guide rail. :)
But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.
On 9/29/11 6:27 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
>> "Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> Use a guide rail for the cut.
>>
>> Always.
>> -------------------------------------------
>> Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.
>>
> Exactly why I use the guide rail. :)
>
> But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
> doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
> need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.
Lots of things aren't "necessary" but we still use them.
Especially when we're talking about having one chance to make a perfect
cut on an expensive door.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/29/11 7:58 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.
>
"Like"
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
In article <15f9179a-f33b-491c-aff1-d1a4a339f7c9@db5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>on the motor.
Hmmm; never thought of that. Thanks!
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.
It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?
On 9/29/11 2:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Sep 29, 2:24 pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
>> In article<15f9179a-f33b-491c-aff1-d1a4a339f...@db5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
>> Father Haskell<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>> on the motor.
>>
>> Hmmm; never thought of that. Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> -Ed Falk, [email protected]
>> http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
>
> It will chip a lot more though....
Oh c'mon Rob, it's a small price to pay for a cooler blade. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/29/11 2:12 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain on the
>> motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by setting a portable
>> saw light, since your fingers are well-shielded by a 2" thick slab
>> of wood.
>
> I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
> half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
> either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
> remember it being a safety tip.
>
> It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if
> it is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and
> thus present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any
> consequences for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would
> cut through the top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that
> not tend to chip it more than if the angle had been smaller?
>
Seems to me I would want as many teeth as possible in contact with the
cutting area to get the smoothest cut. But that's just me.
I mean, I don't mind my saw blade getting all red hot and my saw bogging
down and melting the brushes.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/29/11 3:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 9/29/11 2:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Sep 29, 2:24 pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
>>> In
>>> article<15f9179a-f33b-491c-aff1-d1a4a339f...@db5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
>>>
>>> Father Haskell<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>>> on the motor.
>>>
>>> Hmmm; never thought of that. Thanks!
>>>
>>> --
>>> -Ed Falk, [email protected]
>>> http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
>>
>> It will chip a lot more though....
>
>
> Oh c'mon Rob, it's a small price to pay for a cooler blade. :-)
>
>
If you want a cool blade, get some pinstripes and flame decals.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
> It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
> overall finish will be worse though.
I'll stick with the shallower cut then.
> Now, can we have a three day thread
> on how to sharpen a pointy stick?
Ignorance is the default state for human beings as regards most topics.
Overcoming it frequently involves asking, politely. I have expended
quite a lot of verbiage answering questions from fledgling musicians
over the years, often on what seemed like "pointy-stick" level questions
to me. But I was a beginner once also, and would have appreciated some
good advice. Thanks for yours.
On 9/29/11 11:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Martin Eastburn" wrote:
>
>> Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
> -----------------
> What?
>
> And use the tool designed to do the job!
>
> Surely you jest.
>
> Lew
>
That can take quite a while and make a heck of a lot of sawdust if you
need to remove an inch or more.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/30/2011 12:29 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>> Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
>> exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.
>>
>> I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
>> use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
>> to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
>> outside on windy days.<g>
>
>
> a: brakleen is not flammable
It most certainly is.
http://www.crcind.com/wwwcrc/msds/AB11261-3.htm
2. Hazard Identification
Health and Safety: Extremely flammable
5. Fire-fighting Measures
Flash point: < 0 deg C
> b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar
It most certainly will. Refer to the MSDS: it's 5 to 10% acetone. You
won't see the damage to the paint until you use it the second or third
time in the same spot, after the acetone has removed the clear coat.
> c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.
>
That's probably true.
On 9/29/2011 11:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
> email.me:
>
> If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
> compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
> shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
> the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
> final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.
>
> Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
> as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?
>
> Puckdropper
Good tip. I'll check that out.
On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>>> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
>>> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>>> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>>
>> I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
>> half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
>> either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
>> remember it being a safety tip.
>
> I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
> Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.
>
>> It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
>> is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
>> present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
>> for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
>> top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
>> it more than if the angle had been smaller?
>
> Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.
>
AITOOWDUTA?
(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)
Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.
On 9/30/2011 9:55 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 9/29/2011 11:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
>> email.me:
>
>>
>> If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
>> compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
>> shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
>> the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
>> final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.
>>
>> Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
>> as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Good tip. I'll check that out.
For the 80th post in this thread, I can report that the job was
completed without incident. I used the 24 tooth blade in the 7-1/4"
Skil, with the depth set to just expose the "gullets" (I learned another
new word!). I used the aluminum guide I mentioned upthread, and
painter's tape. The cut was nice and smooth, with no splintering to
speak of and the saw and brushes performed without complaint.
Thanks again.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
>> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>
>I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
>half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
>either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
>remember it being a safety tip.
I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.
>It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
>is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
>present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
>for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
>top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
>it more than if the angle had been smaller?
Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:18:11 -0500, Steve Barker
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>> On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg Guarino<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
>>> specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
>>> succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
>>> it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
>>> a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
>>> This was a year ago, by the way.
>>>
>>> I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
>>> pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
>>> also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
>>> brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
>>> they sell, 1-1/4"?
>>>
>>> Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
>>> the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
>>> (That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
>>> ask, you don't learn)
>>
>> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>> on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
>> setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
>> well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
>
>but you might cut the saw horse in two....
Or your work mutt. (Hi, O'Deen!)
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 07:27:26 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
>> "Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> Use a guide rail for the cut.
>>
>> Always.
>> -------------------------------------------
>> Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.
>>
>Exactly why I use the guide rail. :)
>
>But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
>doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
>need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.
I've seen doors cut freehand and know better than to ever try it
(again) myself. DAMHIKT, but the others I've seen were much worse.
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 15:17:56 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>> > > Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
>> > > on the motor.
>>
>> > How is that?
>>
>> Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
>> to eject chips.
>
>Makes sense to me.
Eez true, too, mi compadre.
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 20:40:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
I picked up one of the little HF electric planers and they're
wonderful to use. I use mine to taper plywood for ramps and such. It's
a real timesaver. Some day, I'll remember to take the shop vac and
hook it up so it's not so bloody messy.
BUT, sawing a door with a circ saw is the best method I've ever used.
--
Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:19:50 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 5:02 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in
>>>>>>>> common w/
>>>>>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there
>>>>>>>> time in
>>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>>>>>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>>>>>
>>>>> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
>>>>> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>>>>>
>>>> In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
>>>
>>>
>>> It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
>>> frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
>>> matter. The door had nothing to do with it.
>>>
>>> Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
>>> was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
>>> through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
>>> wood, or termite vomit.
>>
>> I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...
>>
>> A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
>> better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
>> line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
>> masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
>> provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
>> baseplate of the saw.
>>
>> --
>Thanks. I used a knife and tape (and cut with the more important side of
>the doors "down) the last time I did it. I plan to again.
>
>Even though the saw had not been in any way over-used over it's
>lifetime, I also suspected that the brushes may have been ready to fail.
>But I've found that when I ask a question here, I frequently get good
>advice from directions that I hadn't anticipated.
Use a guide rail for the cut. Any wandering will be eliminated so the
blade should stay at full speed all the way.
Tape, knife, guide, new blade, and an easy push on the saw should add
up to giving you a quick and easy door trimming, Greg.
--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:32:50 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>> ...
>>
>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>
>That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
Could be some corrosion on the commutator that took them out. The other
thought is to make sure that the shoe is parallel to the blade. It may have
gotten whacked somewhere along the line.
>Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf Diablo
blades. That's pretty much all I used in the cordless saw. For a saw, well,
Festool! (somebody had to say it ;-)
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:26:18 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>> On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>>> ...
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
>>>>>> the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
>>>>> ...
>>>>>
>>>>> ...it was just THEIR time...
>>>>
>>>> That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
>>>> the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?
>>>
>>> Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
>>> :) ) or a solid-wood door?
>>>
>> In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.
>
>
>It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
>frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
>matter. The door had nothing to do with it.
>
>Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
>was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
>through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
>wood, or termite vomit.
But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.