Hi,
I like to know if there is really difference between different brands
of polyurethane finishes. I have come across brands like MINWAX,
Benjamin Moore, BEHLEN, MOHAWK, Target Coating. Some of them are
easily avaliable at my local home department store (MINWAX) like
HomeDepot or paint shop (Benjamin Moore). Others are available through
special ordering which can be quite expensive.
As I mentioned in my previouse message, I will be doing caoting on my
table top. I need to have a smooth look and durable finish. Looks like
Poly is the best bet ( Isn't it?).
I have thought that brushing is the common technique to apply the
POLY, looks like it is not. People are talking about using different
techique like using foam, cloth and ... . Can you share your
experience on applying the finish on Horizontal surfaces like table
top and vertical surfaces like table legs? Should I dilute the POLY
before applying it? For example, on MINWAX can it was written that its
content (oil-based POLY) does not need to be thined?
Would it be OK if I use polyurethane made for Hardwood for my purpose?
thanks a lot
Fardin
I've had the best results by using wipe-on poly. Minwax makes it, as does
others. Or you can make your own by diluting poly with mineral spirits. Wipe
it on with an old cotton tee shirt, sand between coats. Apply at least three
coats. You won't get sags, drips or brush marks with the wipe-on technique.
For brands, I've had good luck with the ones you've mentioned.
>
>
>
>
Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me.
Jay Windley wrote:
> The reason I like wiping is precisely because you get no brush marks. But
> the downside is that you have to apply more coats because each coat is
> thinner.
Poly toughens the varnish. You don't need a thick finish for protection.
Three coats are adequate, four if you want a deep gloss.
and I thought I was the only one who gave up of foam brushes. The
little bits of foam falling off really pisses me off!
dave
Jay Windley wrote:
> "FardinA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> |
> | I have thought that brushing is the common technique to
> | apply the POLY, looks like it is not.
>
> A lot of it will come down to your personal preference. I hate foam
> brushes. They fall apart and leave little foam bits in your work.
>
> My favorite way to apply polyurethane is wiping. I use a pre-thinned (for
> wiping) oil-based brand called Old Dad's that is readily available for me.
> I haven't used enough different brands to have developed a feel for the
> differences between them. But I definitely prefer oil-based poly instead of
> water-based.
>
> The reason I like wiping is precisely because you get no brush marks. But
> the downside is that you have to apply more coats because each coat is
> thinner. I use the glossy poly and adjust the sheen at the end using
> abrasives and/or wax.
>
> | on MINWAX can it was written that its content (oil-based POLY)
> | does not need to be thined?
>
> The manufacturer's thinning recommendations are not inviolable rules. I
> haven't yet met a solvent finish that failed to work when thinned reasonably
> to ease its application. I generally don't thin anything unless I have a
> problem with its consistency out of the can. But for wiping you want to
> thin it.
>
> | Would it be OK if I use polyurethane made for Hardwood for
> | my purpose?
>
> Don't see why not.
>
> --Jay
>
"FardinA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
|
| I have thought that brushing is the common technique to
| apply the POLY, looks like it is not.
A lot of it will come down to your personal preference. I hate foam
brushes. They fall apart and leave little foam bits in your work.
My favorite way to apply polyurethane is wiping. I use a pre-thinned (for
wiping) oil-based brand called Old Dad's that is readily available for me.
I haven't used enough different brands to have developed a feel for the
differences between them. But I definitely prefer oil-based poly instead of
water-based.
The reason I like wiping is precisely because you get no brush marks. But
the downside is that you have to apply more coats because each coat is
thinner. I use the glossy poly and adjust the sheen at the end using
abrasives and/or wax.
| on MINWAX can it was written that its content (oil-based POLY)
| does not need to be thined?
The manufacturer's thinning recommendations are not inviolable rules. I
haven't yet met a solvent finish that failed to work when thinned reasonably
to ease its application. I generally don't thin anything unless I have a
problem with its consistency out of the can. But for wiping you want to
thin it.
| Would it be OK if I use polyurethane made for Hardwood for
| my purpose?
Don't see why not.
--Jay