I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table I am
making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax finishes, and am
starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am going to go to 400
grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go straight to
the poly-oil?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Han wrote:
>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>>> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
>>> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>
>> It depends upon what you want it to look like. The pores/grain of the
>> oak will wind up much darker than the rest of it if you don't first
>> use a sealer coat. However, that will also be true if you use shellac
>> because the darkness comes from increased absorption which "colors"
>> the wood; think how the wood would look with shellac and that's pretty
>> much the way it is going to look if you put poly on top of the
>> shellac.. If you want a more uniform overall color, seal with a
>> waterborne material.
>
> The consensus seems to be to go straight to the poly. But I'd like to
> know what would be your preferred waterbased sealer?
Take the advice of someone who has used this type of finish on dozens of
pieces. DO NOT use a sealer. This formulation is designed to penetrate into
the wood and maintain the look of the natural wood. To use a sealer defeats
the purpose of the finish.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table I am
> making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax finishes, and am
> starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am going to go to 400
> grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go straight to
> the poly-oil?
Go straight to the finish out of the can, particularly since A wants it
lighter in color.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table I am
> making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax finishes, and am
> starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am going to go to 400
> grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go straight to
> the poly-oil?
>
I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can say? :~)
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:35:00 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table I am=
=20
>=20
> making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax finishes, and am=
=20
>=20
> starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am going to go to 400=
=20
>=20
> grit sandpaper as per the instructions. =20
>=20
> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go straight to=
=20
>=20
> the poly-oil?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> Best regards
>=20
> Han=20
>=20
> email address is invalid
A wash coat is usually only need when adding a color so you won't get a blo=
tchy outcome. White Oak doesn't really blotch much anyway but you aren't ad=
ding color so not really needed.
If you are going with natural color, you might try adding some color to the=
grain. After your first coat or two of poly, rub on some black or dark bro=
wn gel stain and wipe it off completely right away. You can leave it like t=
hat, gel stain is just color poly. Or you can add more coats of clear. The =
dark stain will get down in the oak grain and really make the grain pop. Re=
ally a nice way to treat natural red or white oak. Test it in a scrap you m=
ight really like it.
On 4/10/2013 2:41 PM, Han wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>>> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
>>> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>>
>>
>>
>> I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can say?
>> :~)
>
> There has been a lot of talk about a wash-coat or sealer coat lately.
> Better to ask and look stoopid, then later on regret things. DAMHIKT!!
>
Typically you would do that if working with maple, pine, birch, any wood
that does not absorb a stain evenly.
On 4/10/2013 3:46 PM, Han wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 4/10/2013 2:41 PM, Han wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
>>>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee
>>>>> table I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>>>>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I
>>>>> am going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>>>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>>>>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can say?
>>>> :~)
>>>
>>> There has been a lot of talk about a wash-coat or sealer coat lately.
>>> Better to ask and look stoopid, then later on regret things.
>>> DAMHIKT!!
>>>
>>
>>
>> Typically you would do that if working with maple, pine, birch, any
>> wood that does not absorb a stain evenly.
>
> I'm learning ...
>
> THANKS!!!
>
Hey Han you sound like a pro!
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:35:00 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>> I am
>
>>
>> making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax finishes,
>> and am
>
>>
>> starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am going to go to
>> 400
>
>>
>> grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>
>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>> straight to
>
>>
>> the poly-oil?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> Han
>>
>> email address is invalid
>
> A wash coat is usually only need when adding a color so you won't get
> a blotchy outcome. White Oak doesn't really blotch much anyway but you
> aren't adding color so not really needed.
>
> If you are going with natural color, you might try adding some color
> to the grain. After your first coat or two of poly, rub on some black
> or dark brown gel stain and wipe it off completely right away. You can
> leave it like that, gel stain is just color poly. Or you can add more
> coats of clear. The dark stain will get down in the oak grain and
> really make the grain pop. Really a nice way to treat natural red or
> white oak. Test it in a scrap you might really like it.
Thanks!! I'll try on a piece of scrap ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
>> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>
>
>
> I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can say?
> :~)
There has been a lot of talk about a wash-coat or sealer coat lately.
Better to ask and look stoopid, then later on regret things. DAMHIKT!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 4/10/2013 2:41 PM, Han wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
>>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee
>>>> table I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>>>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I
>>>> am going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>>>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can say?
>>> :~)
>>
>> There has been a lot of talk about a wash-coat or sealer coat lately.
>> Better to ask and look stoopid, then later on regret things.
>> DAMHIKT!!
>>
>
>
> Typically you would do that if working with maple, pine, birch, any
> wood that does not absorb a stain evenly.
I'm learning ...
THANKS!!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 4/10/2013 3:46 PM, Han wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 4/10/2013 2:41 PM, Han wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> On 4/10/2013 1:35 PM, Han wrote:
>>>>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee
>>>>>> table I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof
>>>>>> poly-oil-wax finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the
>>>>>> table top. I am going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the
>>>>>> instructions. Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted
>>>>>> shellac, or go straight to the poly-oil?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would think straight to the poly-oil, Ummm what does the can
>>>>> say?
>>>>> :~)
>>>>
>>>> There has been a lot of talk about a wash-coat or sealer coat
>>>> lately. Better to ask and look stoopid, then later on regret
>>>> things. DAMHIKT!!
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Typically you would do that if working with maple, pine, birch, any
>>> wood that does not absorb a stain evenly.
>>
>> I'm learning ...
>>
>> THANKS!!!
>>
> Hey Han you sound like a pro!
I'm about 40 years away from that. I'll see you if I make it ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
>> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>> straight to the poly-oil?
>
> Go straight to the finish out of the can, particularly since A wants
> it lighter in color.
:)
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Han wrote:
>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
>> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
>> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>> straight to the poly-oil?
>
> It depends upon what you want it to look like. The pores/grain of the
> oak will wind up much darker than the rest of it if you don't first
> use a sealer coat. However, that will also be true if you use shellac
> because the darkness comes from increased absorption which "colors"
> the wood; think how the wood would look with shellac and that's pretty
> much the way it is going to look if you put poly on top of the
> shellac.. If you want a more uniform overall color, seal with a
> waterborne material.
The consensus seems to be to go straight to the poly. But I'd like to
know what would be your preferred waterbased sealer?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Han wrote:
>>>> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee
>>>> table I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
>>>> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I
>>>> am going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
>>>> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
>>>> straight to the poly-oil?
>>>
>>> It depends upon what you want it to look like. The pores/grain of
>>> the oak will wind up much darker than the rest of it if you don't
>>> first use a sealer coat. However, that will also be true if you use
>>> shellac because the darkness comes from increased absorption which
>>> "colors" the wood; think how the wood would look with shellac and
>>> that's pretty much the way it is going to look if you put poly on
>>> top of the shellac.. If you want a more uniform overall color, seal
>>> with a waterborne material.
>>
>> The consensus seems to be to go straight to the poly. But I'd like
>> to know what would be your preferred waterbased sealer?
>
> Take the advice of someone who has used this type of finish on dozens
> of pieces. DO NOT use a sealer. This formulation is designed to
> penetrate into the wood and maintain the look of the natural wood. To
> use a sealer defeats the purpose of the finish.
I was going to follow your advice, Karl! (Who am I to not do so?). It
was just for future projects which may use maple or other woods that may
need a sealer.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Han wrote:
> I'm getting close to finishing the Karl Caillouet-style coffee table
> I am making. I've gotten the Rockler Sam Maloof poly-oil-wax
> finishes, and am starting to do final sanding of the table top. I am
> going to go to 400 grit sandpaper as per the instructions.
> Question: Do I seal the oak first with diluted shellac, or go
> straight to the poly-oil?
It depends upon what you want it to look like. The pores/grain of the oak
will wind up much darker than the rest of it if you don't first use a sealer
coat. However, that will also be true if you use shellac because the
darkness comes from increased absorption which "colors" the wood; think how
the wood would look with shellac and that's pretty much the way it is going
to look if you put poly on top of the shellac.. If you want a more uniform
overall color, seal with a waterborne material.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Han wrote:
> The consensus seems to be to go straight to the poly. But I'd like to
> know what would be your preferred waterbased sealer?
I don't usually use one but if I had need I'd use what I had on hand.
Currently - and for some time to come - that is waterborne poly. I have
that because I needed to finish something with minimal coloring.
On our Saltillo floors I used an acrylic, Seal-Krete by name, with oil poly
over.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net