On Nov 28, 4:50 pm, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
> back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
> to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
> the best way to fix it?
If it's a cast iron table, don't you have to get the WHOLE TOP
heated up (to reduce the chance of cracking) before doing a weld?
It doesn't seem likely to be worth doing,
On Nov 29, 6:50 pm, whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 28, 4:50 pm, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
> > back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
> > to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
> > the best way to fix it?
>
> If it's a cast iron table, don't you have to get the WHOLE TOP
> heated up (to reduce the chance of cracking) before doing a weld?
> It doesn't seem likely to be worth doing,
I'm not planning on doing it, I'm just wondering how one would go
about it. Over at the mill we had some moulder beds spray welded and
they came out good as new. I just don't know how you do it, or if
it's worth it.
Just curious.
JP
Jay Pique wrote:
>
> I'm not planning on doing it, I'm just wondering how one would go
> about it. Over at the mill we had some moulder beds spray welded and
> they came out good as new. I just don't know how you do it, or if
> it's worth it.
> Just curious.
> JP
Another traditional way to build the metal back up is to braze some
brass onto the area. I don't see why that wouldn't work on a cast iron
TS top.
Are you going to be using MIG or stick? Be damn sure there is no
contaminants in the area as it may look nice but will fall off or break away
with one hit from a wrench. Pretty straight forward, but careful with the
grinding.
Jon
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
> back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
> to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
> the best way to fix it? The only way? Just curious.
>
> JP