The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
various sizes of router bit shanks.
www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
constantly
shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
functional, but seemed
to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
table
and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
last I
felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
storage. Now
Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
bits,
that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
will
corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
moisture may
already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
always remove
sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
however.
On Feb 14, 12:00 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> constantly
> shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> functional, but seemed
> to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> table
> and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> last I
> felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> storage. Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> moisture may
> already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
The router table which Norm built a few seasons ago had a bit storage
drawer with out any brass barriers protecting the shanks. If this is
a real problem you could keep a dessicant bag in the drawer. I hear
the distant cry of over kill.
Joe G
On Feb 14, 12:23 pm, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> > shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> > various sizes of router bit shanks.
> >www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> > For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> > constantly
> > shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> > I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> > holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> > functional, but seemed
> > to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> > table
> > and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> > last I
> > felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> > storage. Now
> > Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> > bits,
> > that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> > will
> > corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> > moisture may
> > already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> > myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> > BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> > always remove
> > sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> > however.
>
> Is this corrosion like invisible? I have stored my bits plain old wood
> holes for years and don't see any damage; but if it is invisible maybe I
> should buy all new ones?
Actually, it is invisible, and very toxic. If you send your old ones
to an address I'll provide you, they will be safely disposed of. But
hurry, before somebody suffers terrible health consequences.
-jtpr
On Feb 14, 11:00 am, [email protected] wrote:
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> constantly
> shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> functional, but seemed
> to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> table
> and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> last I
> felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> storage. Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> moisture may
> already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
the shanks, or in plastic cases. I just leave the bits in the case or
box it came with. No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
together. Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
at. Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
them. Never even thought about the shanks rusting. I've had quite a
few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
holes. Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest would
be a moisture magnet. My drill bits have not rusted in many years
stored this way. But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holders
too.
> All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
> Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
> the shanks, or in plastic cases. I just leave the bits in the case or
> box it came with. No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
> together. Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
> at. Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
> them. Never even thought about the shanks rusting. I've had quite a
> few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
> holes. Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest would
> be a moisture magnet. My drill bits have not rusted in many years
> stored this way. But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holders
> too.
Good suggestion, I've kinda been worried about my drill bits too. A
brass holder for each and every one would be just the ticket to ease
my shame factor. I'm also excited about another item I found in the
new
Lee Valley flier ...... a long handled spider catcher!
www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=56114&cat=2,51555
Up to now I've been using my old block of wood router bit holder (sans
brass bit inserts) to smash spiders around the shop. For just $19.95
I can treat them with kindness and provide them a plastic spider
buddy. It can't get any sweeter.
On Feb 15, 1:22=EF=BF=BDam, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]=
et>
wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >> I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
> >> they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
> >> already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning out
> >> purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
>
> > Well, have a look. Only one question on my part. From the picture, they
> > appear to be threaded, not just lipped for a press to fit insertion. I'm
> > wondering how one goes about screwing these inserts into the wood witho=
ut
> > causing any damage to them?
>
> >http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D56500&cat=3D51&ap=3D1
>
> Didn't Robin include the special Brass Bit Holder Driving Tool??
>
> Oh...., =A0that must be another $17.95.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I have these allready. They are actually a very tight fit into a 5/8
hole and take a lot more than thumb pressure to set them in.
Fortunately I solved the problem by setting them in as far as they
would go with moderate force then inserting a router bit into the
holder, then pounding on the bit with a mallet thus driving the holder
and the bit all the way in. Very secure now.
FoggyTown
On Feb 15, 4:05=EF=BF=BDpm, J. Clarke <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 15 Feb 2007 07:17:36 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
> >> Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
> >> the shanks, or in plastic cases. =A0I just leave the bits in the case =
or
> >> box it came with. =A0No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
> >> together. =A0Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
> >> at. =A0Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
> >> them. =A0Never even thought about the shanks rusting. =A0I've had quit=
e a
> >> few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
> >> holes. =A0Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest wou=
ld
> >> be a moisture magnet. =A0My drill bits have not rusted in many years
> >> stored this way. =A0But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holde=
rs
> >> too.
>
> >Good suggestion, I've kinda been worried about my drill bits too. A
> >brass holder for each and every one would be just the ticket to ease
> >my shame factor. I'm also excited about another item I found in the
> >new
> >Lee Valley flier ...... a long handled spider catcher!
> >www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D56114&cat=3D2,51555
> >Up to now I've been using my old block of wood router bit holder (sans
> >brass bit inserts) to smash spiders around the shop. For just $19.95
> >I can treat them with kindness and provide them a plastic spider
> >buddy. It can't get any sweeter.
>
> If it really catches and releases them without harming them I might
> get one. =A0I see one or two of these guys
> <http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/389463371/> every year and
> I hate to smash them both because they're harmless and because they
> make a big mess (they're huge, one of the largest North American
> spiders), but having them running around the shop gives me the
> willies. =A0Be nice to be able to take them to the creek out back and
> let them go where they can catch some minnows without bothering me.- Hide=
quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
DAMN! I wouldn't use the catcher on them. They might grab it from
your hand and beat you with it!
FoggyTown
On Feb 14, 12:00 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> ...
> Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks.
If the object of the exercise is to protect the shanks from
corrosion the inserts should be made of zinc.
--
FF
On Feb 20, 4:34=EF=BF=BDam, Bill in Detroit <[email protected]> wrote:
> FoggyTown wrote:
> > Fortunately I solved the problem by setting them in as far as they
> > would go with moderate force then inserting a router bit into the
> > holder, then pounding on the bit with a mallet thus driving the holder
> > and the bit all the way in. =A0Very secure now.
>
> > FoggyTown
>
> Ummm ... how do you get the router bit out? Or haven't you gotten to
> that part yet?
>
> ;-)
>
> Bill
Ah . . . . . .
On Feb 20, 12:13=EF=BF=BDam, Tanus <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>
> > I see the problem here Robin. You were talking to those eskimo types who
> > frequent your stores in the barren north. =A0They like pretty little th=
ing
> > like this.
>
> > But most of us have never entered your stores. =A0We live in other coun=
tries.
> > This miscommunication occurred because you have no stores in our countr=
y=2E
> > The solution is obvious.
>
> > OPEN SOME STORES SOUTH OF THE BORDER!!!
>
> > Then we will be able to observe first hand Lee Valley behavior and store
> > practices. =A0Then we will no longer be culturally deprived and make su=
ch
> > glaring errors.
>
> > Puleeeeeez.....
>
> I'm with Lee on this one, Rob. I happen to be a very frequent visitor to
> the store at Pinecrest and Iris, and this is something that needs to be
> exported - badly.
>
> I know from reading here that the US has some stores that approximate
> what LV does up here, but I also know there's room for more of it, and I
> think you'd make a killing in just about any place you opened up. Hell,
> if you can make a go of it in Ottawa, BrokenButtPlug . . .
Only because they sell generic replacement buttplugs
Toller wrote:
> Is this corrosion like invisible? I have stored my bits plain old wood
> holes for years and don't see any damage; but if it is invisible maybe I
> should buy all new ones?
May depend on humidity level in the shop. Here in Saskatchewan it's
likely not an issue, but I lived for a while where the humidity could be
90% or higher and carbon steel started to rust pretty fast.
Chris
[email protected] wrote:
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.
> www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> constantly
> shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> functional, but seemed
> to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> table
> and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> last I
> felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> storage. Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> moisture may
> already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
>
I gotta laugh. I got the same catalog yesterday, and I just finished a
new bit case (a rather overly-fancy walnut and spalted maple creation).
As soon as I saw those bit holders, my first thought was "Damn, now I
have to get me some of these if I really want this case to be first-rate.
Charlie M.
J. Clarke wrote:
> On 15 Feb 2007 07:17:36 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>> All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
>>> Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
>>> the shanks, or in plastic cases. I just leave the bits in the case or
>>> box it came with. No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
>>> together. Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
>>> at. Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
>>> them. Never even thought about the shanks rusting. I've had quite a
>>> few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
>>> holes. Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest would
>>> be a moisture magnet. My drill bits have not rusted in many years
>>> stored this way. But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holders
>>> too.
>> Good suggestion, I've kinda been worried about my drill bits too. A
>> brass holder for each and every one would be just the ticket to ease
>> my shame factor. I'm also excited about another item I found in the
>> new
>> Lee Valley flier ...... a long handled spider catcher!
>> www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=56114&cat=2,51555
>> Up to now I've been using my old block of wood router bit holder (sans
>> brass bit inserts) to smash spiders around the shop. For just $19.95
>> I can treat them with kindness and provide them a plastic spider
>> buddy. It can't get any sweeter.
>
> If it really catches and releases them without harming them I might
> get one. I see one or two of these guys
> <http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/389463371/> every year and
> I hate to smash them both because they're harmless and because they
> make a big mess (they're huge, one of the largest North American
> spiders), but having them running around the shop gives me the
> willies. Be nice to be able to take them to the creek out back and
> let them go where they can catch some minnows without bothering me.
>
Why not just get 'em a can of sardines and train them in how to open it?
Bill
--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com
---
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Virus Database (VPS): 000714-0, 02/15/2007
Tested on: 2/15/2007 9:21:40 PM
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http://www.avast.com
FoggyTown wrote:
> Fortunately I solved the problem by setting them in as far as they
> would go with moderate force then inserting a router bit into the
> holder, then pounding on the bit with a mallet thus driving the holder
> and the bit all the way in. Very secure now.
>
> FoggyTown
>
Ummm ... how do you get the router bit out? Or haven't you gotten to
that part yet?
;-)
Bill
--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com
[email protected] wrote:
> If the object of the exercise is to protect the shanks from
> corrosion the inserts should be made of zinc.
>
> --
>
> FF
>
Fred ... the object of the exercise is to appease those who spend all
their time in the shop making things FOR the shop. You know, the guys
who laser-etch their story sticks and file their shavings by species,
size and moisture content. The guys who call Rob to buy a plane and he
DELIVERS it, personally.
Frankly, I think they look pretty neat. But I do my woodworking in a
basement shop with exposed joists, a cracked floor, not enough light,
cinder-block walls and a drippy pipe I keep meaning to get to.
Maybe someday ... maybe someday.
Bill
--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com
On 14 Feb 2007 09:00:32 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
>shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
>various sizes of router bit shanks.
>www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
>
Snip--
I spent hours on their website and then did a web search looking for
some type of cover for these inserts. LV doesn't even offer a brass
polishing kit (at additional charge, of course) to go with them. I
think I will wait until the polishing and protective cover issue are
resolved before sending in my order.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
> they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
> already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning out
> purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
Well, have a look. Only one question on my part. From the picture, they
appear to be threaded, not just lipped for a press to fit insertion. I'm
wondering how one goes about screwing these inserts into the wood without
causing any damage to them?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
[email protected] wrote:
| Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
| bits,
| that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
| will corrode the shanks.
I guess I can dodge this one - most of my router bits are straight or
spiral with 1/2" shanks. A while back I bought a length of 5/8"ID
vinyl tubing and cut lengths to hold my router bits with a hard maple
plug stuck in each end. _Very_ inexpensive, no rust, and no bruised
cutting edges.
If/when I want something fancier, I'll get some 1/2"ID tubing and make
my own bit holders - come to think of it, I already have clear 1/4"ID
tubing (from Menard's for $15/100') which should provide enough
holders for all the 1/4" shanked bits I'll ever own...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Lee Michaels wrote:
| "Morris Dovey" wrote
|| [email protected] wrote:
||
||| Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
||| bits,
||| that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration
||| and will corrode the shanks.
||
|| I guess I can dodge this one - most of my router bits are straight
|| or spiral with 1/2" shanks. A while back I bought a length of
|| 5/8"ID vinyl tubing and cut lengths to hold my router bits with a
|| hard maple plug stuck in each end. _Very_ inexpensive, no rust,
|| and no bruised cutting edges.
||
|| If/when I want something fancier, I'll get some 1/2"ID tubing and
|| make my own bit holders - come to think of it, I already have
|| clear 1/4"ID tubing (from Menard's for $15/100') which should
|| provide enough holders for all the 1/4" shanked bits I'll ever
|| own...
||
|
| But, but, but ......, Morris, Robin's bitholders are PURTY!!!
I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning out
purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
Bit holders are /nice/ - but I've decided that I /need/ one of Steve's
planes. <g>
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Upscale wrote:
| "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
||
|| I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
|| they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
|| already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning
|| out purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
|
| Well, have a look. Only one question on my part. From the picture,
| they appear to be threaded, not just lipped for a press to fit
| insertion. I'm wondering how one goes about screwing these inserts
| into the wood without causing any damage to them?
|
| http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
I think the appearance is deceiving. According to the description,
they're intended to be either dropped or pressed into a 5/8"D hole and
the spiral groove is meant to provide a "good mechanical glue lock if
permanent installation is desired." If you click on the "View" link
you can get a better look.
Another interesting question might be whether the center 1/4", 1/2",
or 8mm "bore" is stopped or through. If the latter, then one might
wonder just how effective they really are as moisture barriers...
Lee Michaels is right, though, they are purty. :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Lee Michaels wrote:
>
> I see the problem here Robin. You were talking to those eskimo types who
> frequent your stores in the barren north. They like pretty little thing
> like this.
>
> But most of us have never entered your stores. We live in other countries.
> This miscommunication occurred because you have no stores in our country.
> The solution is obvious.
>
> OPEN SOME STORES SOUTH OF THE BORDER!!!
>
> Then we will be able to observe first hand Lee Valley behavior and store
> practices. Then we will no longer be culturally deprived and make such
> glaring errors.
>
> Puleeeeeez.....
>
>
>
>
I'm with Lee on this one, Rob. I happen to be a very frequent visitor to
the store at Pinecrest and Iris, and this is something that needs to be
exported - badly.
I know from reading here that the US has some stores that approximate
what LV does up here, but I also know there's room for more of it, and I
think you'd make a killing in just about any place you opened up. Hell,
if you can make a go of it in Ottawa, BrokenButtPlug, Midwest US should
be a breeze.
Tanus
--
This is not really a sig.
http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits, that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture
Yeah, but just think of how good your router bits will look. After all,
everybody knows that we don't buy tools and accessories to do any real
woodworking, we only buy stuff so we can brag to our buddies about the great
looking shop what we've got. :)
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
> Is this corrosion like invisible? I have stored my bits plain old wood
> holes for years and don't see any damage; but if it is invisible maybe I
> should buy all new ones?
No problem, just send $19.95 plus $36 for shipping and handling to me for a
big can of Invisible Corrosion Remover.
Think of all the money you will save by not having to buy new bits. ;)
>> I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
>> they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
>> already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning out
>> purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
>
> Well, have a look. Only one question on my part. From the picture, they
> appear to be threaded, not just lipped for a press to fit insertion. I'm
> wondering how one goes about screwing these inserts into the wood without
> causing any damage to them?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
They are not threaded into the board/plank/ply/whatever...the grooves are
glue grooves to aid in making a good mechanical joint if you decide to glue
them in.
On the other hand, they do look pretty cool...put for $2.00usd each, I can
make a buttload of them...maybe even play around with some titanium router
bit holders!
God, I love my job!
Mike
On 15 Feb 2007 07:17:36 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
>> Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
>> the shanks, or in plastic cases. I just leave the bits in the case or
>> box it came with. No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
>> together. Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
>> at. Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
>> them. Never even thought about the shanks rusting. I've had quite a
>> few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
>> holes. Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest would
>> be a moisture magnet. My drill bits have not rusted in many years
>> stored this way. But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holders
>> too.
>
>Good suggestion, I've kinda been worried about my drill bits too. A
>brass holder for each and every one would be just the ticket to ease
>my shame factor. I'm also excited about another item I found in the
>new
>Lee Valley flier ...... a long handled spider catcher!
>www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=56114&cat=2,51555
>Up to now I've been using my old block of wood router bit holder (sans
>brass bit inserts) to smash spiders around the shop. For just $19.95
>I can treat them with kindness and provide them a plastic spider
>buddy. It can't get any sweeter.
If it really catches and releases them without harming them I might
get one. I see one or two of these guys
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/389463371/> every year and
I hate to smash them both because they're harmless and because they
make a big mess (they're huge, one of the largest North American
spiders), but having them running around the shop gives me the
willies. Be nice to be able to take them to the creek out back and
let them go where they can catch some minnows without bothering me.
"The Davenport's" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
>
> They are not threaded into the board/plank/ply/whatever...the grooves are
> glue grooves to aid in making a good mechanical joint if you decide to
glue
> them in.
Are you saying this from actually seeing one in person? The "view" image
looks pretty convincing for a threaded insert, not a lipped one.
On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:21:40 -0500, Bill in Detroit <[email protected]>
wrote:
>J. Clarke wrote:
>> On 15 Feb 2007 07:17:36 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>> All the router bits I've ever bought (Jesada, CMT, Sears, Menards,
>>>> Payless, etc.) always came in a wooden box, with plastic inserts for
>>>> the shanks, or in plastic cases. I just leave the bits in the case or
>>>> box it came with. No rust on the shanks, no banging the edges
>>>> together. Keep them all in the same drawer so I know where they are
>>>> at. Haven't seen the need yet to make an official display case for
>>>> them. Never even thought about the shanks rusting. I've had quite a
>>>> few drill bits stored in the metal case they came in, or in wood
>>>> holes. Seems to me a metal drill bit case in a metal tool chest would
>>>> be a moisture magnet. My drill bits have not rusted in many years
>>>> stored this way. But Lee Valley should invent brass drill bit holders
>>>> too.
>>> Good suggestion, I've kinda been worried about my drill bits too. A
>>> brass holder for each and every one would be just the ticket to ease
>>> my shame factor. I'm also excited about another item I found in the
>>> new
>>> Lee Valley flier ...... a long handled spider catcher!
>>> www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=56114&cat=2,51555
>>> Up to now I've been using my old block of wood router bit holder (sans
>>> brass bit inserts) to smash spiders around the shop. For just $19.95
>>> I can treat them with kindness and provide them a plastic spider
>>> buddy. It can't get any sweeter.
>>
>> If it really catches and releases them without harming them I might
>> get one. I see one or two of these guys
>> <http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/389463371/> every year and
>> I hate to smash them both because they're harmless and because they
>> make a big mess (they're huge, one of the largest North American
>> spiders), but having them running around the shop gives me the
>> willies. Be nice to be able to take them to the creek out back and
>> let them go where they can catch some minnows without bothering me.
>>
>
>Why not just get 'em a can of sardines and train them in how to open it?
Shh. They might teach the cat.
On 14/02/2007 12:00 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
Sheesh, just put 'em in the drawer loose with some old screws and nails
and drill bits and stuff :)
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 17:23:43 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Is this corrosion like invisible? I have stored my bits plain old wood
>holes for years and don't see any damage; but if it is invisible maybe I
>should buy all new ones?
Well, I had all my bits in holes in a piece of ply, and then I got a
whiteside bit and stuck it in with the rest. After only a couple of
days the part of the shank that was in the hole was discolored. The
rest of the bits are fine. Maybe the other bits are coated and the
whiteside is plain.
-Leuf
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "The Davenport's" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >
>> > http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
>>
>> They are not threaded into the board/plank/ply/whatever...the grooves are
>> glue grooves to aid in making a good mechanical joint if you decide to
> glue
>> them in.
>
> Are you saying this from actually seeing one in person? The "view" image
> looks pretty convincing for a threaded insert, not a lipped one.
I'm saying this based on what I saw AND on what I read below the
pictures...allow me to copy directly from the page...
"Developed to hold 1/4", 8mm, or 1/2" round shank bits, these are the same
brass cup inserts we use in our showrooms for bit display. They mount in a
5/8" diameter hole, and have grooved shanks to provide a good mechanical
glue lock if permanent installation is desired. The center bore measures
just over 5/8" deep."
Seems pretty clear to me that they are not intended to be threaded in.
Mike
On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 23:46:11 -0500, Bill in Detroit <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> If the object of the exercise is to protect the shanks from
>> corrosion the inserts should be made of zinc.
>>
>> --
>>
>> FF
>>
>
>Fred ... the object of the exercise is to appease those who spend all
>their time in the shop making things FOR the shop. You know, the guys
>who laser-etch their story sticks and file their shavings by species,
>size and moisture content. The guys who call Rob to buy a plane and he
>DELIVERS it, personally.
>
>Frankly, I think they look pretty neat. But I do my woodworking in a
>basement shop with exposed joists, a cracked floor, not enough light,
>cinder-block walls and a drippy pipe I keep meaning to get to.
Glad I'm not the only one. I did finally fix the drippy pipe though.
One of them anyway. Wanged a piece of 8/4 maple into it one day and
turned it from a "drippy pipe" to a "gusher" and figured that while I
was fixing it I may as well do a right job of it.
Still trying to clear enough space to get the jack under the outboard
end of the rotted joist though.
>Maybe someday ... maybe someday.
>
>Bill
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill in Detroit <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Ummm ... how do you get the router bit out? Or haven't you gotten to
> that part yet?
Or maybe he shoulda drilled the holes deeper? :^P
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
"Rob Lee" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Geez - cut a guy some slack... we got asked for 'em... you vote with
> dollars, we just put up the slate.
>
> We give router bit holders at N/C with the bits we sell... the glass
> filled nylon ones. We try not to make judgements on what the market deems
> as "necessary" - we just offer alternatives, and let each of you determine
> what has value. Would I buy them - no. Would someone buy them - yes. Are
> they reasonably priced - yes. It's just a progamming change on a
> lathe....and we make them for our displays anyway.
>
I see the problem here Robin. You were talking to those eskimo types who
frequent your stores in the barren north. They like pretty little thing
like this.
But most of us have never entered your stores. We live in other countries.
This miscommunication occurred because you have no stores in our country.
The solution is obvious.
OPEN SOME STORES SOUTH OF THE BORDER!!!
Then we will be able to observe first hand Lee Valley behavior and store
practices. Then we will no longer be culturally deprived and make such
glaring errors.
Puleeeeeez.....
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I don't doubt it a bit (I obviously don't have my catalog yet); but
>> they're going to have to work hard to be purtier than the stuff I'm
>> already saving up for. Robin seems to make a practice of turning out
>> purty stuff out faster than I can afford to spend...
>
> Well, have a look. Only one question on my part. From the picture, they
> appear to be threaded, not just lipped for a press to fit insertion. I'm
> wondering how one goes about screwing these inserts into the wood without
> causing any damage to them?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56500&cat=51&ap=1
>
>
Didn't Robin include the special Brass Bit Holder Driving Tool??
Oh...., that must be another $17.95.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.
> www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> constantly
> shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> functional, but seemed
> to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> table
> and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> last I
> felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> storage. Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> moisture may
> already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
>
Geez - cut a guy some slack... we got asked for 'em... you vote with
dollars, we just put up the slate.
We give router bit holders at N/C with the bits we sell... the glass filled
nylon ones. We try not to make judgements on what the market deems as
"necessary" - we just offer alternatives, and let each of you determine what
has value. Would I buy them - no. Would someone buy them - yes. Are they
reasonably priced - yes. It's just a progamming change on a lathe....and we
make them for our displays anyway.
Sheesh ...
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The new flier from Lee Valley came yesterday and has caused me only
> shame. There on page 3 I found Brass Bit Holders, developed to hold
> various sizes of router bit shanks.
> www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,46168,50736,56500&p=56500
> For years I kept my router bits in an old cigar box. Friends
> constantly
> shamed and nagged me into making a better holder.
> I finally sawed off a scrap of two-by-four and drilled
> holes freehand at various angles. It was never beautiful, barely
> functional, but seemed
> to do the trick. A few months ago I built a new base for my router
> table
> and added a slick drawer with neatly arranged holes for my bits. At
> last I
> felt completely satisfied (shall we say smug) with my router bit
> storage. Now
> Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> bits,
> that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> will
> corrode the shanks. I couldn't sleep last night for worry that
> moisture may
> already be doing it's nefarious damage .... once again I'm ashamed of
> myself and my slovenly router bit storage system. Thanks Robin Lee.
> BTW, when your bits are stored in a cigar box, rapid shaking will
> always remove
> sticky resin from the carbide edges. Can't say the same for my drawer
> however.
>
Is this corrosion like invisible? I have stored my bits plain old wood
holes for years and don't see any damage; but if it is invisible maybe I
should buy all new ones?
"Morris Dovey" wrote
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> | Robin tells me I must have brass barriers around the shanks of my
> | bits,
> | that simple holes drilled into the wood cause moisture migration and
> | will corrode the shanks.
>
> I guess I can dodge this one - most of my router bits are straight or
> spiral with 1/2" shanks. A while back I bought a length of 5/8"ID
> vinyl tubing and cut lengths to hold my router bits with a hard maple
> plug stuck in each end. _Very_ inexpensive, no rust, and no bruised
> cutting edges.
>
> If/when I want something fancier, I'll get some 1/2"ID tubing and make
> my own bit holders - come to think of it, I already have clear 1/4"ID
> tubing (from Menard's for $15/100') which should provide enough
> holders for all the 1/4" shanked bits I'll ever own...
>
But, but, but ......, Morris, Robin's bitholders are PURTY!!!