I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for the
use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of current
miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd like
to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the key
very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge of
the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size could
be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone has
done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project coming
up and would like to start using box joints again.
Don
Just noticed a web write-up today on one.
http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/boxjointjig.html
You're welcome.
Brian.
"D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for the
> use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of
current
> miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd like
> to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the
key
> very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge of
> the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size could
> be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone
has
> done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project coming
> up and would like to start using box joints again.
>
> Don
>
>
That's a good one, think I'll try to find it in an old issue and go with
it - Thank you.
Don
"Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just noticed a web write-up today on one.
> http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/boxjointjig.html
>
> You're welcome.
>
> Brian.
>
>
> "D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for
the
> > use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of
> current
> > miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd
like
> > to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the
> key
> > very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge
of
> > the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size
could
> > be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone
> has
> > done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project
coming
> > up and would like to start using box joints again.
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
>
>
You would think so, but the gauge is not hollow on the bottom and it's solid
3/4" cast. I think it would be easier to either buy a new cheap one with
holes however, I've decided to go with the one from Shopnotes 62 or a
modified version of it. I also looked at Lynn's jig and while it looks
tempting, it seems that it would take forever to turn the crank all the way
through a board and then return it for the second pass.
Don
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "D. J. Dorn" writes:
>
> >I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for
the
> >use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of
current
> >miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with.
>
> Isn't that why drills are made?
>
>
> --
> Lew
>
> S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
> Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
>
>
I'm looking for that version but can't seem to locate one. I do have a
picture of it though and it doesn't look like rocket science to make.
Thanks much for the input.
Don
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
> > You could build a sled with it's own slot runner to make a
> > self-contained box joint jig. I've seen several plans for this type
> > over the years. Do a web search or check out old issues of shop notes
> > or similar magazines.
>
> ShopNotes Vol. 11 Issue 62 (March 2002) has a nice one.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Thank you, I work at a college and will look for it - if they don't have it,
they'll get it.
Don
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "D. J. Dorn"writes:
> > You would think so, but the gauge is not hollow on the bottom and it's
> solid
> > 3/4" cast.
> <snip>
>
> You want the simplest box jig on the planet, IMHO?
>
> Go to the library, get a copy of Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht
> Joinery", and read the parts of it you need.
>
> In paper back, it's about $20, I wouldn't leave home without.
>
> I recently posted some Boat Pics that showed Fred's 1/4" box joint jig
being
> used to make notched trowels to spread epoxy fairing compound.
>
> HTH
>
>
> --
> Lew
>
> S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
> Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
>
>
If you're just looking to make good box joints, why not go with a set of
jigs for the router?
Easy enough for middle-schoolers to use, easily made, easily set up.
See the commercial one(s) at :
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--
"D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for the
> use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of
current
> miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd like
> to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the
key
> very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge of
> the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size could
> be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone
has
> done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project coming
> up and would like to start using box joints again.
>
> Don
>
>
"D. J. Dorn"writes:
> You would think so, but the gauge is not hollow on the bottom and it's
solid
> 3/4" cast.
<snip>
You want the simplest box jig on the planet, IMHO?
Go to the library, get a copy of Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht
Joinery", and read the parts of it you need.
In paper back, it's about $20, I wouldn't leave home without.
I recently posted some Boat Pics that showed Fred's 1/4" box joint jig being
used to make notched trowels to spread epoxy fairing compound.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
You could build a sled with it's own slot runner to make a
self-contained box joint jig. I've seen several plans for this type
over the years. Do a web search or check out old issues of shop notes
or similar magazines.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
> You could build a sled with it's own slot runner to make a
> self-contained box joint jig. I've seen several plans for this type
> over the years. Do a web search or check out old issues of shop notes
> or similar magazines.
ShopNotes Vol. 11 Issue 62 (March 2002) has a nice one.
-- Mark
"D. J. Dorn" writes:
>I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for the
>use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of current
>miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with.
Isn't that why drills are made?
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
Lynn's Jig
http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php
"D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for the
>use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of current
>miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd like
>to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the key
>very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge of
>the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size could
>be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone has
>done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project coming
>up and would like to start using box joints again.
>
>Don
>
I have their jig and it's a no brainer. I also have several of Oak Park's
other jigs and like them all very much.
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you're just looking to make good box joints, why not go with a set of
> jigs for the router?
>
> Easy enough for middle-schoolers to use, easily made, easily set up.
>
> See the commercial one(s) at :
> http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--
>
> "D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I know there are a thousand plans for box joint jigs but most call for
the
> > use of screwing a base to your miter gauge. Unfortunately, both of
> current
> > miter gauges don't have the holes to do that with. Additionally, I'd
like
> > to make it adjustable and was thinking that could be done by making the
> key
> > very narrow and simply butting the already cut joints against the edge
of
> > the narrow pin as opposed to a full size one to fit them over. Size
could
> > be adjusted by moving the pin closer or away from the blade. If someone
> has
> > done anything similar, I'd like to have some input. Have a project
coming
> > up and would like to start using box joints again.
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
>
>