New job

Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
>> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
>> start the above mentioned piece.
>
> How many Bessy Revo's do you have now?
>
>

3-1/2 pair. :-)

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/15/15 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>
>> As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is
>> excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw.
>>
>> The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch
>> cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for
>> precision production woodworking.
>>
>> Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which
>> will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy
>> in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your
>> settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've
>> retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard).
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919257557388034
>>
>>
>>
>> Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws
>> won't give you the precision, or the repeatability.
>>
>
> You should send that pic to Festool. I'm quite surprised, with their
> engineering prowess, that they didn't incorporate those support bars on
> the guide stops.

Well that and a better attachment to the track method. IIRC Woodpeckers
had a better set of parallel guides for the track, at least they seem to
attach better and have a larger capacity.




>
> I like the design of the rails being on the edges of the plywood to keep
> the saw guide square to the stock, but surely they could see that the
> whole thing would want to tip down if not being used on a large table top.
>
>

krw <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:33:27 -0600, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2
>
> That's gorgeous!
>

Thank you!

woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
>> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
>> start the above mentioned piece.
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
>> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
>> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that
>> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>>
>> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
>> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
>> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed
>> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>>
>> Here it is
>> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>>
>> The stained panels.
>> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>>
>> The front face frame going together.
>> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>>
>> Bringing it altogether
>> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
>> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>>
>> I'll post more with more progress
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> When I think georgian cherry stain for some reason I think of Bartley
> Stains.

General Finishes gel stain
>
> Nice looking color. I'll hold off on the accolades until I see i complete.
>
> :-)
>
OK. :-)

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:33:27 -0600, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:

>Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>
>https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>
>https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2

That's gorgeous!

Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.

https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV

https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2

Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2
>
> You are probably having second thoughts about selling this one! Nice!
>

Actually I have an old mahogany side table that I remember from about the
age of 2. It needs go be refinished and I'll probably do it in the same
color.

Thanks!

On 11/18/2015 8:19 PM, krw wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 07:51:44 -0600, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 11/15/15 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>>>
>>>> As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is
>>>> excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw.
>>>>
>>>> The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch
>>>> cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for
>>>> precision production woodworking.
>>>>
>>>> Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which
>>>> will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy
>>>> in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your
>>>> settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've
>>>> retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard).
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919257557388034
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws
>>>> won't give you the precision, or the repeatability.
>>>>
>>>
>>> You should send that pic to Festool. I'm quite surprised, with their
>>> engineering prowess, that they didn't incorporate those support bars on
>>> the guide stops.
>>
>> Well that and a better attachment to the track method. IIRC Woodpeckers
>> had a better set of parallel guides for the track, at least they seem to
>> attach better and have a larger capacity.
>>
> Woodpecker had a problem attaching to the rails, too. They just sent
> new connection hardware to their guide users. The interesting part
> was that the hardware was from Incra. Are they the same company?

Hummmm. The biggest problem that I have with the Festool parallel
guides is that they fit across the rubber strips under the tracks. the
makes movement of the guides difficult. That holds well but a relative
pain when adjusting the guides elsewhere along the track. Those rubber
strips hold on to the guides as well as the material being cut. ;~)

I have often thought that Woodpecker was some how related to Incra.
Incra IIRC is based in Dallas. Woodpeckers is in OH.




>>
>>
>>>
>>> I like the design of the rails being on the edges of the plywood to keep
>>> the saw guide square to the stock, but surely they could see that the
>>> whole thing would want to tip down if not being used on a large table top.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>

G. Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>>
>> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2
>>
> I feel much better to see I am not the only one who uses his table saw
> for other things than just sawing.

:-) It is a flat surface that helps to kerf every thing straight during
glue up. And while it is up there you might as well apply varnish.


>
> Fine work.
>

Thank you.

Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
>> hate staining as it hides the character of the grain.
>>
>> The stained panels.
>> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>
> It looks very cherry though. I like it.
>

Thank you Ed. it does not look quite so red in person and my oil based
varnish is toning that down a bit.

On Saturday, November 14, 2015 at 12:55:08 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw.

> -MIKE-


Now's the time to write to Santa.

Sonny

On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
> start the above mentioned piece.
>
> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that
> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>
> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed
> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>
> Here it is
> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>
> The stained panels.
> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>
> The front face frame going together.
> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>
> Bringing it altogether
> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>
> I'll post more with more progress
>
>
>
>
>
When I think georgian cherry stain for some reason I think of Bartley
Stains.

Nice looking color. I'll hold off on the accolades until I see i complete.

:-)

--
Jeff

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/12/15 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
>> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
>> start the above mentioned piece.
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
>> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
>> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that
>> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>>
>> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
>> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
>> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed
>> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>>
>> Here it is
>> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>>
>> The stained panels.
>> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>>
>> The front face frame going together.
>> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>>
>> Bringing it altogether
>> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
>> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>>
>> I'll post more with more progress
>>
>
> Mmmm-mmm, that sho iz purdy!

Thank you
>
> I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls.
>
> I use straight cauls on curves stock. :-)

On 11/14/2015 2:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/15 1:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>>>>
>>>> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint
>>>> grade plywood.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the
>>>> TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before
>>>> cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the
>>> track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your
>>> preference to finish cut on the table saw?
>>
>> The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut
>> is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one
>> edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a
>> consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut
>> does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice.
>> I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again
>> Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a
>> lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides
>> would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when
>> Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two
>> kitchens that we built.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>
>> The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade
>> but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have
>> plywood blades for our Festool Track saws.
>>
>> IMHO that set up does not disappoint.
>>
>> With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are
>> looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the
>> TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the
>> length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and
>> couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with
>> the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for
>> me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the
>> longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75
>> comes with a 75" track.
>>
>
> Thanks for that info, it is very helpful.
> I also fear using 2-part guides as they seem to *never* go together
> *perfectly* straight. Now, the ones I've attempted to use haven't been
> green in color, but I still get weary of spending that kind of green
> (PUN!) when the cut line might be a tad off. And when I say tad, I'm
> talking any fraction of an inch. To me, if it's not *perfectly*
> straight, it's not straight at all.
>
>

LOL. actually......


Swingman and I both have one of these. $100.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6F97WFYwkU

Swingman and I both have one of these.

Or if you need an excuse to get a 6' level.

I don't see that Betterly sells the alignment tool anymore. Some thing
to check on.

Still Festool does make very long rails....

On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw.
> However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge
> would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.

As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is excellent
with a Festool plunge cut track saw.

The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch
cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for precision
production woodworking.

Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which
will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy in
initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your
settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've retrofitted
to each guide stop to help in that regard).

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919257557388034

Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws
won't give you the precision, or the repeatability.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/13/2015 8:18 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:1279730206.469055660.294028.lcb11211-swbell.net@news.giganews.com:
>
>> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material
>> I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
>> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be
>> viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is
>> FLAT
>
> Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and
> thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher
> quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise mak


>
> Just for curiousity, who's the vendor? Boulter Plywood
> in Massachuesets is a good place for quality plywood.
>
> John
>


I don't think it is marine, look here for spec.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/22365795693/in/dateposted-public/

On 11/12/2015 6:33 PM, Leon wrote:
> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>
> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2

Damn, I love mahogany ...


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:1279730206.469055660.294028.lcb11211-swbell.net@news.giganews.com:

> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material
> I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be
> viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is
> FLAT

Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and
thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher
quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise make.

Just for curiousity, who's the vendor? Boulter Plywood
in Massachuesets is a good place for quality plywood.

John

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 11/13/2015 8:18 AM, John McCoy wrote:

>> Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and
>> thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher
>> quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise make

> I don't think it is marine, look here for spec.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/22365795693/in/dateposted-public/

I agree - those inner plys are far too thick to be
marine grade.

John

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> My favorite color description is "fruitwood".
> What the heck color is that??? Add fly specks and you are half way
> there. ;~)

Well, it _should_ be a light pinkish brown. Apple trees,
pear trees, plum trees and maybe some others all have
lumber that's fairly similar in color.

That said, I don't know that I've ever seen a wood stain
that color.

John

On 11/14/2015 6:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/15 4:08 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/14/2015 2:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/15 1:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint
>>>>>> grade plywood.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the
>>>>>> TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before
>>>>>> cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the
>>>>> track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your
>>>>> preference to finish cut on the table saw?
>>>>
>>>> The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut
>>>> is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one
>>>> edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a
>>>> consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut
>>>> does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice.
>>>> I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again
>>>> Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a
>>>> lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides
>>>> would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when
>>>> Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two
>>>> kitchens that we built.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>>>
>>>> The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade
>>>> but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have
>>>> plywood blades for our Festool Track saws.
>>>>
>>>> IMHO that set up does not disappoint.
>>>>
>>>> With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are
>>>> looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the
>>>> TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the
>>>> length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and
>>>> couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with
>>>> the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for
>>>> me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the
>>>> longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75
>>>> comes with a 75" track.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for that info, it is very helpful.
>>> I also fear using 2-part guides as they seem to *never* go together
>>> *perfectly* straight. Now, the ones I've attempted to use haven't been
>>> green in color, but I still get weary of spending that kind of green
>>> (PUN!) when the cut line might be a tad off. And when I say tad, I'm
>>> talking any fraction of an inch. To me, if it's not *perfectly*
>>> straight, it's not straight at all.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> LOL. actually......
>>
>>
>> Swingman and I both have one of these. $100.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6F97WFYwkU
>>
>> Swingman and I both have one of these.
>>
>> Or if you need an excuse to get a 6' level.
>>
>> I don't see that Betterly sells the alignment tool anymore. Some thing
>> to check on.
>>
>> Still Festool does make very long rails....
>>
>
> I would certainly get that when and if I get track saw. Nice!
> I have a 6' level and it has a bow in the middle.
> I'm guessing it was either designed to be used with masonry or as....
> wait... for.. it.....
> A CAUL! HAHAHAHA!!!
>
>

Have I mentioned the special wax? ;~)

On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:

>
> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
> hate staining as it hides the character of the grain.
>
> The stained panels.
> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv

It looks very cherry though. I like it.

On 11/13/2015 1:06 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
>> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
>> start the above mentioned piece.
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
>> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
>> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with
>> that
>> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>>
>> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
>> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
>> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be
>> viewed
>> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>>
>> Here it is
>> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>>
>> The stained panels.
>> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>>
>> The front face frame going together.
>> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>>
>> Bringing it altogether
>> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
>> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>>
>> I'll post more with more progress
>
> I see no mention of solid wood. The face frame isn't ply also, is it?
>


No, the front and back face frames are solid mahogany. In fact I bought
73 LF of 1x8 mahogany for the job.
The tops, door frames, drawer frames will also be solid wood.

On 11/13/2015 1:36 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 11/13/2015 12:44 PM, Leon wrote:
>> IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider
>> staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less
>> expensive than cherry, at least down here.
>
> I was under the impression that Maple didn't take stain very well.
> Wrong? Maybe different for Gel Stain?


More troublesome but I would think about the same as staining cherry,
although I have not stained either for a job.

Posts trim dry fit and the top of the bottom cabinet glue up.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/22806837750/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/22373720053/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/23005986951/in/dateposted-public/

24 Dominos to insure alignment between the 4 boards

On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
> mantle.
>
> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany.

Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood?

On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>>
>> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade
>> plywood.
>>
>>>
>>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>>
>>
>> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I
>> also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the
>> TS, when I buy S2S.
>>
>
> I would appreciate further explanation for this.
> Is it because the track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is
> it just your preference to finish cut on the table saw?

The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut is
not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one edge on
a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a consistency with its
fixed fence that moving the track for each cut does not afford. This is
important when every thing must be precice. I do have the Festool track
positioning guides, thanks again Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of
work to set up. If I had a lot of sheets to break down with the track
saw the positioning guides would be used. Wish I had that set up about
7~8 years ago when Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to
cut for the two kitchens that we built.


>
> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw.
> However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge
> would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.

The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade but
not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have plywood
blades for our Festool Track saws.

IMHO that set up does not disappoint.

With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are looking
at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the TS75 and
considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the length of
standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and couplings to
join the additional track to the track that comes with the saw.
The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for me as the
additional shorter track was much less expensive than the longer track.
Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75 comes with a 75"
track.

On 11/13/2015 10:42 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/13/15 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>>>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux
>>>> fireplace/ mantle.
>>>>
>>>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany.
>>>
>>> Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained
>>> cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood?
>>>
>>
>> yes
>>
>>
>> First off they have a lot of mahogany furniture with a red-ish dark
>> stain. Cherry looks nothing like mahogany, much more like maple
>> especially when fresh surfaced and it really turns more of a brown
>> than red. At least the cherry that we get in the Houston area.
>>
>> Walnut on bottom, cherry on top, cedar inside. Thank you Swingman
>> for use of the picture. ;~)
>>
>> http://www.custommade.com/hope-chest/by/ewoodshop/
>>
>> And these are cherry, they have darkened considerably over the last 6
>> years though.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4287396695/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> And the oval sided base of the finial, just under the pointed oak
>> piece is cherry. It too had darkened considerably over the last 6
>> years.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Mostly the grain was what I/we were after.
>>
>>
>
> Hence the old joke, "what color are you painting that cherry wood?"
> The general public has no concept whatsoever what cherry really is or
> looks like.
> There should be a law forcing the furniture and finish industries to use
> an asterisk next to the word every time they use it when referring to
> that reddish color instead of the natural patina occurs when cherry is
> left natural.
>
> Most people also probably think cherries taste like Kool-Aid. :-)
>
>

IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider
staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less
expensive than cherry, at least down here. Let cherry age on its own,
it needs no help. Unfortunately most furniture buyers don't want to
wait for that look.

My favorite color description is "fruitwood".
What the heck color is that??? Add fly specks and you are half way
there. ;~)


Anyway not ragging on you Russel. You had a very valid question.

On 11/12/2015 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
> start the above mentioned piece.

How many Bessy Revo's do you have now?


--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/12/15 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
> start the above mentioned piece.
>
> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that
> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>
> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed
> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>
> Here it is
> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>
> The stained panels.
> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>
> The front face frame going together.
> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>
> Bringing it altogether
> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>
> I'll post more with more progress
>

Mmmm-mmm, that sho iz purdy!

I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:
> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>
> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2

You are probably having second thoughts about selling this one! Nice!

On 11/13/15 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux
>>> fireplace/ mantle.
>>>
>>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany.
>>
>> Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained
>> cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood?
>>
>
> yes
>
>
> First off they have a lot of mahogany furniture with a red-ish dark
> stain. Cherry looks nothing like mahogany, much more like maple
> especially when fresh surfaced and it really turns more of a brown
> than red. At least the cherry that we get in the Houston area.
>
> Walnut on bottom, cherry on top, cedar inside. Thank you Swingman
> for use of the picture. ;~)
>
> http://www.custommade.com/hope-chest/by/ewoodshop/
>
> And these are cherry, they have darkened considerably over the last 6
> years though.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4287396695/in/dateposted-public/
>
> And the oval sided base of the finial, just under the pointed oak
> piece is cherry. It too had darkened considerably over the last 6
> years.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Mostly the grain was what I/we were after.
>
>

Hence the old joke, "what color are you painting that cherry wood?"
The general public has no concept whatsoever what cherry really is or
looks like.
There should be a law forcing the furniture and finish industries to use
an asterisk next to the word every time they use it when referring to
that reddish color instead of the natural patina occurs when cherry is
left natural.

Most people also probably think cherries taste like Kool-Aid. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
> mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled
> and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to
> start the above mentioned piece.
>
> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I
> hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly
> enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that
> and that is what the customer wants. :-)
>
> The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I
> got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were
> consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed
> from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT
>
> Here it is
> https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu
>
> The stained panels.
> https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv
>
> The front face frame going together.
> https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY
>
> Bringing it altogether
> https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S
> https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo
>
> I'll post more with more progress

I see no mention of solid wood. The face frame isn't ply also, is it?

On 11/13/2015 12:44 PM, Leon wrote:
> IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider
> staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less
> expensive than cherry, at least down here.

I was under the impression that Maple didn't take stain very well.
Wrong? Maybe different for Gel Stain?

On 11/13/15 1:36 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 11/13/2015 12:44 PM, Leon wrote:
>> IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider
>> staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less
>> expensive than cherry, at least down here.
>
> I was under the impression that Maple didn't take stain very well.
> Wrong? Maybe different for Gel Stain?

You can get great results on maple by using a pre-stain conditioner.
They take care of the splotchy-ness and unevenness for which maple
earned that reputation.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 15:43:06 -0600
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:

> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux
> fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her
> home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got
> the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece.

ambitious project

how much do the sheets weigh
they sounds heavy

do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them

On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>
> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade
> plywood.
>
>>
>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>
>
> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I
> also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the
> TS, when I buy S2S.
>

I would appreciate further explanation for this.
Is it because the track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is
it just your preference to finish cut on the table saw?

I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw.
However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge
would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/14/15 1:39 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>>>
>>> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint
>>> grade plywood.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>>>
>>>
>>> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the
>>> TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before
>>> cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S.
>>>
>>
>> I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the
>> track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your
>> preference to finish cut on the table saw?
>
> The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut
> is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one
> edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a
> consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut
> does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice.
> I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again
> Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a
> lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides
> would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when
> Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two
> kitchens that we built.
>
>
>>
>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>
> The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade
> but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have
> plywood blades for our Festool Track saws.
>
> IMHO that set up does not disappoint.
>
> With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are
> looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the
> TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the
> length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and
> couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with
> the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for
> me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the
> longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75
> comes with a 75" track.
>

Thanks for that info, it is very helpful.
I also fear using 2-part guides as they seem to *never* go together
*perfectly* straight. Now, the ones I've attempted to use haven't been
green in color, but I still get weary of spending that kind of green
(PUN!) when the cut line might be a tad off. And when I say tad, I'm
talking any fraction of an inch. To me, if it's not *perfectly*
straight, it's not straight at all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/14/15 4:08 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/14/2015 2:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/15 1:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy
>>>>>
>>>>> In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint
>>>>> grade plywood.
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the
>>>>> TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before
>>>>> cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the
>>>> track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your
>>>> preference to finish cut on the table saw?
>>>
>>> The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut
>>> is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one
>>> edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a
>>> consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut
>>> does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice.
>>> I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again
>>> Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a
>>> lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides
>>> would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when
>>> Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two
>>> kitchens that we built.
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>>
>>> The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade
>>> but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have
>>> plywood blades for our Festool Track saws.
>>>
>>> IMHO that set up does not disappoint.
>>>
>>> With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are
>>> looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the
>>> TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the
>>> length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and
>>> couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with
>>> the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for
>>> me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the
>>> longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75
>>> comes with a 75" track.
>>>
>>
>> Thanks for that info, it is very helpful.
>> I also fear using 2-part guides as they seem to *never* go together
>> *perfectly* straight. Now, the ones I've attempted to use haven't been
>> green in color, but I still get weary of spending that kind of green
>> (PUN!) when the cut line might be a tad off. And when I say tad, I'm
>> talking any fraction of an inch. To me, if it's not *perfectly*
>> straight, it's not straight at all.
>>
>>
>
> LOL. actually......
>
>
> Swingman and I both have one of these. $100.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6F97WFYwkU
>
> Swingman and I both have one of these.
>
> Or if you need an excuse to get a 6' level.
>
> I don't see that Betterly sells the alignment tool anymore. Some thing
> to check on.
>
> Still Festool does make very long rails....
>

I would certainly get that when and if I get track saw. Nice!
I have a 6' level and it has a bow in the middle.
I'm guessing it was either designed to be used with masonry or as....
wait... for.. it.....
A CAUL! HAHAHAHA!!!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/15/15 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>
> As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is
> excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw.
>
> The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch
> cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for
> precision production woodworking.
>
> Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which
> will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy
> in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your
> settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've
> retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard).
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919257557388034
>
>
>
> Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws
> won't give you the precision, or the repeatability.
>

You should send that pic to Festool. I'm quite surprised, with their
engineering prowess, that they didn't incorporate those support bars on
the guide stops.

I like the design of the rails being on the edges of the plywood to keep
the saw guide square to the stock, but surely they could see that the
whole thing would want to tip down if not being used on a large table top.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 12:34:10 -0600
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS.
> I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on
> the TS, when I buy S2S.

when i first heard of a track saw this is the use i imagined if i was to get
one

wrestling large sheets like that is not easy

On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 18:28:08 -0600
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:

> I would certainly get that when and if I get track saw. Nice!
> I have a 6' level and it has a bow in the middle.
> I'm guessing it was either designed to be used with masonry or as....
> wait... for.. it.....
> A CAUL! HAHAHAHA!!!

but make sure it has the right curve for the task at hand

i read that luthiers and other instrument makers use curved cauls
and often make them custom for the instrument they are working on

of course these are small cauls mostly

On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 07:51:44 -0600, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:

>-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11/15/15 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they
>>>> don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me
>>>> make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw.
>>>
>>> As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is
>>> excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw.
>>>
>>> The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch
>>> cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for
>>> precision production woodworking.
>>>
>>> Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which
>>> will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy
>>> in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your
>>> settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've
>>> retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard).
>>>
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919257557388034
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws
>>> won't give you the precision, or the repeatability.
>>>
>>
>> You should send that pic to Festool. I'm quite surprised, with their
>> engineering prowess, that they didn't incorporate those support bars on
>> the guide stops.
>
>Well that and a better attachment to the track method. IIRC Woodpeckers
>had a better set of parallel guides for the track, at least they seem to
>attach better and have a larger capacity.
>
Woodpecker had a problem attaching to the rails, too. They just sent
new connection hardware to their guide users. The interesting part
was that the hardware was from Incra. Are they the same company?
>
>
>>
>> I like the design of the rails being on the edges of the plywood to keep
>> the saw guide square to the stock, but surely they could see that the
>> whole thing would want to tip down if not being used on a large table top.
>>
>>
>
>

On 11/12/2015 4:15 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls.

A rare commodity on the interwebz, SKILL, based on actual practice,
experience and understanding.

Not to be confused with mall ninja "skillz", based on Google and a keyboard.

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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

If I were to guess, it was already red. Real cherry takes time to turn
red and mellow. I have a Grandfather clock in Cherry wood and I'll buy
a new works for it before I think of tossing it.

One could only hope to wash it in lye or like and not get stains or
such. That turns it reddish. But has it's risks.

Martin

On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle.
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany.
>
> Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood?
>

On 11/14/2015 11:12 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 15:43:06 -0600
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux
>> fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her
>> home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got
>> the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece.
>
> ambitious project

Actually this is a small project compared to what I have been doing in
the past 6~7 years. Easy and relatively small parts/components.

>
> how much do the sheets weigh
> they sounds heavy

In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade plywood.

>
> do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them
>

To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS.
I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the
TS, when I buy S2S.

At best my original description was not too clear. Anyway here is the
design.

The top mantel will have 3 doors to store what ever in, TV/Stereo
controllers.

The bottom sides will be drawers and the bottom center will have a
fabric panel and hide the electronics.

IR will pass through the fabric so you will not have to see electronics
lights shining back at you.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/22392970574/in/dateposted-public/

On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
>> mantle.
>>
>> First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany.
>
> Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood?
>

yes


First off they have a lot of mahogany furniture with a red-ish dark stain.
Cherry looks nothing like mahogany, much more like maple especially when
fresh surfaced and it really turns more of a brown than red. At least
the cherry that we get in the Houston area.

Walnut on bottom, cherry on top, cedar inside. Thank you Swingman for
use of the picture. ;~)

http://www.custommade.com/hope-chest/by/ewoodshop/

And these are cherry, they have darkened considerably over the last 6
years though.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4287396695/in/dateposted-public/

And the oval sided base of the finial, just under the pointed oak piece
is cherry. It too had darkened considerably over the last 6 years.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/in/dateposted-public/

Mostly the grain was what I/we were after.

Leon wrote:
> Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV
>
> https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2
>
I feel much better to see I am not the only one who uses his table saw
for other things than just sawing.

Fine work.

--
GW Ross

Tact: making a point without making an
enemy.