Aa

"AAvK"

13/10/2004 10:45 PM

MDF sealer?


Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?

I have finished cutting all the peices for a drill press table kit
I got from Woodsmith store. The main table top peice being
3/4" plywood. This MDF is sealed in a thin white formica
coating but the edges (end-flats), I suspect, can become flaky
over time of use, wouldn't want it to even start. The MDF
was free from my adult ed. class luckily. Any suggestions?

Alex


This topic has 10 replies

tT

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 6:44 AM

Alex wrote>Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?
>
>I have finished cutting all the peices for a drill press table kit
>I got from Woodsmith store. The main table top peice being
>3/4" plywood. This MDF is sealed in a thin white formica
>coating but the edges (end-flats), I suspect, can become flaky
>over time of use, wouldn't want it to even start. The MDF
>was free from my adult ed. class luckily. Any suggestions?
>
>Alex
>
>
Shellac it. Or poly. Or drywall compound and paint. Tom
Work at your leisure!

RT

Rolling Thunder

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

15/10/2004 12:58 PM

Shellac is a good sealer for painting but it doesn't protect against
water. If for indoors furniture, shellac is OK but will not protect
against water.

Thunder

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 11:29:44 -0400, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:PIubd.3951$bk1.2207@fed1read05...
>>
>> > Shellac it. Or poly. Or drywall compound and paint.
>>
>>
>> I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work?
>> Alex
>>
>>
>I used a couple of coats of that on my aquarium stand to seal the exposed PB
>(back) and it seems OK. But it's only been a couple of months. I don't
>imagine this stuff can be painted over too well though, Shellac is probably
>a better choice if you want to paint it after.
>
>

sW

[email protected] (WoodChuck34)

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 6:51 AM

"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<Nnobd.2183$bk1.1155@fed1read05>...
> Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?
>
> I have finished cutting all the peices for a drill press table kit
> I got from Woodsmith store. The main table top peice being
> 3/4" plywood. This MDF is sealed in a thin white formica
> coating but the edges (end-flats), I suspect, can become flaky
> over time of use, wouldn't want it to even start. The MDF
> was free from my adult ed. class luckily. Any suggestions?
>
> Alex

I've also cut glue with water and it seems to work very well. Not
clear though, sort of a milk water color.

Chuck

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 8:45 AM


> I used a couple of coats of that on my aquarium stand to seal the exposed PB
> (back) and it seems OK. But it's only been a couple of months. I don't
> imagine this stuff can be painted over too well though, Shellac is probably
> a better choice if you want to paint it after.
>
>
No, no need to paint it. As with thinning glue for that, why not thin
the spar so it soaks in further...?

I tried coating a saw handle with it, it's like really "plasticky" stuff. It
has to be sanded between coats and no good, just comes right off. But
this may work with thinning.

Alex

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 5:57 AM


> Shellac it. Or poly. Or drywall compound and paint.


I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work?
Alex

tT

in reply to "AAvK" on 14/10/2004 5:57 AM

14/10/2004 3:21 PM

>Alex wrote:
I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work?

Sure, why not? The glue sizing idea seems economical, too. Tom
Work at your leisure!

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

15/10/2004 6:06 AM


> Shellac is a good sealer for painting but it doesn't protect against
> water. If for indoors furniture, shellac is OK but will not protect
> against water.


Thanks Thunder, I'll try the thinned spar urethane idea, so it soaks in. I just don't know
how much to thin it so that it remains effective.
Alex

BS

"Bill Stock"

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 11:29 AM


"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:PIubd.3951$bk1.2207@fed1read05...
>
> > Shellac it. Or poly. Or drywall compound and paint.
>
>
> I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work?
> Alex
>
>
I used a couple of coats of that on my aquarium stand to seal the exposed PB
(back) and it seems OK. But it's only been a couple of months. I don't
imagine this stuff can be painted over too well though, Shellac is probably
a better choice if you want to paint it after.


Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

14/10/2004 8:48 AM


> No, no need to paint it. As with thinning glue for that, why not thin
> the spar so it soaks in further...?
> I tried coating a saw handle with it, it's like really "plasticky" stuff. It
> has to be sanded between coats and no good, just comes right off. But
> this may work with thinning.


But I would need to know how much to thin it. I suppose if it is too thin
it will harden too much to go any further, and block out further "soakage".

Alex

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to "AAvK" on 13/10/2004 10:45 PM

15/10/2004 11:12 AM

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 22:45:22 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?

Shellac works great. If you're going to recoat with something else,
use dewaxed, like Seal Coat.

Barry


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