I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building an
entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the last
time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where I
know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and I
don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I like.
I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board feet.
When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate the
board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and length
to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 and
that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a board
foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculator" I
just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same width
and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: length,
width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for that
component.
Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
TIA
Dick Snyder
> "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
> -----------------
I wrote:
> I use at least 1.30.
>
> BTW, given a choice, I'll take rough loumber over 2S every time.
>
> Why?
>
> What assurance do you have that wood machined, even a couple of days
> ago, hasn't moved by the time you want to use it?
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
------------------------------------
Don't forget you are going to cut 6"-9" off each end of a random
length board to get rid of any checks, splits, cracks, etc.
They figure in your B'F calculations and you pay for those cut offs
even when they end up on the floor.
They might have some redemptive value if they can be turned into chips
to smoke meat, but that assumes you are into BBQ.<G>
Lew
Dick Snyder wrote:
> My main thinking on 2S is that I have a 6" jointer which is fine for
> doing edges but not so fine for doing wider boards.
Since you plan to use teak for your project it appears that $$ doesn't enter
in; that being the case, buy a Performax drum sander...the 16-32 model
should do you, it will do boards 16" wide in one pass. No tear out either.
Regarding your boardfeet calculator, yes, a spreadsheet is what you need.
Not three columns though, four...one for "quantity".
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"dadiOH" wrote:
<snip>
> Since you plan to use teak for your project it appears that $$
> doesn't enter in; ............
-------------------------------------
From another list discussing the rebuild of a swim platform on a boat
using plantation teak:
---------------------------------------
The strips are 15 feet long, 1 1/2 iches wide and about 7/8ths thick,
approximately 25 board feet before milling.
---------------------------------
Cost given as "About a Boat Buck".
Lew
"Dick Snyder"
> My main thinking on 2S is that I have a 6" jointer which is fine
> for doing edges but not so fine for doing wider boards.
-----------------------------
I'm not all hung up on jointing a face before planing..
If I have a board wider than 6" jointer that is cupped, would probably
rip, then face joint, plane, re-joint cut edges and glue.
But that's just me, I'm not impressed with wide boards.
If it is a wider board that is relatively flat, it's straight to the
planer.
I just don't want to have machined stock laying around waiting to be
used.
YMMV
Lew
On Dec 3, 11:01=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Dec 3, 8:49=A0pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building a=
n
> > entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
> > dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the la=
st
> > time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where=
I
> > know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and=
I
> > don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I l=
ike.
>
> > I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board =
feet.
> > When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate t=
he
> > board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
> > should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
> > pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
>
> > I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and len=
gth
> > to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 =
and
> > that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a boa=
rd
> > foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculato=
r" I
> > just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same =
width
> > and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
>
> > Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: =A0len=
gth,
> > width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
> > inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for tha=
t
> > component.
>
> > Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
>
> > TIA
>
> > Dick Snyder
>
> This may or may not be what you are looking for:http://tinyurl.com/29mbn3=
d
> It calculates price automatically if you enter your lumber yard prices
> in 'Sheet_2'
Sorry for the confusion. This is also my account. Dont ask me how i
ended up w/ two.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
> -----------------
> I use at least 1.30.
>
> BTW, given a choice, I'll take rough loumber over 2S every time.
>
> Why?
>
> What assurance do you have that wood machined, even a couple of days ago,
> hasn't moved by the time you want to use it?
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
My main thinking on 2S is that I have a 6" jointer which is fine for doing
edges but not so fine for doing wider boards.
On 12/3/2010 7:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
> I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building an
> entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
> dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the last
> time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where I
> know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and I
> don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I like.
>
> I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board feet.
> When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate the
> board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
> should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
> pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
>
> I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and length
> to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 and
> that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a board
> foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculator" I
> just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same width
> and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
>
> Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: length,
> width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
> inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for that
> component.
In this day and age, WW'ers who have the ability to post to a newsgroup
owe it to themselves to invest in a cutlist program to help them save
money and optimize the use of expensive hardwoods.
With a program like CutList Plus <http://cutlistplus.com/> you can enter
your parts off your shop drawings and the program will calculate board
feet, give you a cutlist layout showing the most efficient way to make
your cuts, and, if you enter the current price from your lumber yard of
the various materials in the raw materials section, it will give you the
cost of your project so you know what it will cost before you walk out
the door, among other good information like hardware, hinges, etc.
There are many of these cutlist programs out there, but Todd at CutList
Plus has the best one, IME, so give the free trial a run and see if it
doesn't suit you.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
> -----------------
> I use at least 1.30.
>
> BTW, given a choice, I'll take rough loumber over 2S every time.
>
> Why?
>
> What assurance do you have that wood machined, even a couple of days ago,
> hasn't moved by the time you want to use it?
That is why all the S2S 4/4 lumber I have seen is milled to 13/16" or more
vs. 3/4". I always mill S2S again to "my" specs. IMHO the trouble with
rough cut is that you have to dress each board at the lumber yard to see
what you are getting. My experience is that only S4S is milled to what you
expect as far as thickness and width are concerned.
On Dec 4, 6:39=A0am, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Dec 3, 8:49 pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building a=
n
> > entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
> > dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the la=
st
> > time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where=
I
> > know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and=
I
> > don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I
> > like.
>
> > I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board
> > feet.
> > When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate t=
he
> > board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
> > should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
> > pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
>
> > I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and len=
gth
> > to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 =
and
> > that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a boa=
rd
> > foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculato=
r"
> > I
> > just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same
> > width
> > and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
>
> > Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: length=
,
> > width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
> > inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for tha=
t
> > component.
>
> > Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
>
> > TIA
>
> > Dick Snyder
>
> This may or may not be what you are looking for:http://tinyurl.com/29mbn3=
d
> It calculates price automatically if you enter your lumber yard prices
> in 'Sheet_2
>
> Thanks Brian. That isn't what I am looking for right now. I am just tryin=
g
> to figure out how to express my various project parts into a board feet
> number since that is how the lumber yard sells lumber. The first time I d=
id
> this, I had a detailed plan for taking various board lengths and widths
> (that I had decided on before going to the lumber supplier) and getting t=
he
> parts I needed out of them.
That's exactly what the spread sheet does.
> That plan fell apart because they only =A0had the
> lumber I was looking for (cherry) in one width. That had a LOT of it in 1=
0'
> lengths and roughly 8" widths. I just had to make a wild guess on the spo=
t.
Bring chalk w/ you. Chalk out all your parts onto the lumber. The
spreadsheet will get you 'ball park'.
> It turns out I bought too much which isn't the end of the world because I
> will use it down the road. I just want to go in more prepared this time.
There isn't any ant way, that I'm aware of, to be more prepared than
that (using the spread sheet and adding in X% board feet for waste)
>
> Dick
On Dec 3, 8:49=A0pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building an
> entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
> dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the last
> time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where I
> know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and I
> don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I lik=
e.
>
> I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board fe=
et.
> When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate the
> board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
> should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
> pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
>
> I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and lengt=
h
> to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 an=
d
> that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a board
> foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculator"=
I
> just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same wi=
dth
> and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
>
> Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: =A0lengt=
h,
> width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
> inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for that
> component.
>
> Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
>
> TIA
>
> Dick Snyder
This may or may not be what you are looking for: http://tinyurl.com/29mbn3d
It calculates price automatically if you enter your lumber yard prices
in 'Sheet_2'
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Dec 3, 8:49 pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm not sure my subject line is even right. I am going to be building an
> entertainment center out of solid teak and teak plywood. I know the
> dimensions of each piece of solid teak for my project. I learned the last
> time I did a project not to layout each piece on a piece of paper where I
> know the board width and length because where I go, it is 2S lumber and I
> don't necessarily know what width or length boards I will find that I
> like.
>
> I want to take each component of my project and total them up to board
> feet.
> When I select the boards I want, I can have the lumber yard calculate the
> board feet and as long as it is about 20% more than my required wood, I
> should be OK. Of course I have a few special requirements (e.g., a few
> pieces MUST be 7" wide) but other than that, nothing is all that tricky
>
> I know how to take a particular component and convert its width and length
> to board feet. Should I just do that, add them all up, multipy by 1.20 and
> that will be my number? I guess I was hoping to find some kind of a board
> foot calculator to do that but everytime I google "board feet calculator"
> I
> just get something that let's you enter a number of boards of the same
> width
> and length and it will tell you the number of board feet.
>
> Probably your answer will be "Make a spreadsheet with 3 columns: length,
> width and computed board feet" Take each length (in inches), width (in
> inches) and multiply then divide by 144. That is the board feet for that
> component.
>
> Add 'em up and multiply by 1.20.
>
> TIA
>
> Dick Snyder
This may or may not be what you are looking for: http://tinyurl.com/29mbn3d
It calculates price automatically if you enter your lumber yard prices
in 'Sheet_2
Thanks Brian. That isn't what I am looking for right now. I am just trying
to figure out how to express my various project parts into a board feet
number since that is how the lumber yard sells lumber. The first time I did
this, I had a detailed plan for taking various board lengths and widths
(that I had decided on before going to the lumber supplier) and getting the
parts I needed out of them. That plan fell apart because they only had the
lumber I was looking for (cherry) in one width. That had a LOT of it in 10'
lengths and roughly 8" widths. I just had to make a wild guess on the spot.
It turns out I bought too much which isn't the end of the world because I
will use it down the road. I just want to go in more prepared this time.
Dick