Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium reddish / auburn
color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is mahogany - with a
deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of the cabinet is
nearly as new.
The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front, beaded edge,
approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the front.
Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are suggested as the
preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type damage - with
the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this can only be
achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously undertaken repair of
this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation worse, use of a
shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever existed - which
I understand is likely not possible.
Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and procedures.
Thanks and Regards,
Doug
In article <[email protected]>, Doug
<[email protected]> wrote:
snip
> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
> existed - which
> I understand is likely not possible.
>
> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
> procedures.
I do this kind of work, and I will echo what others are saying: Without
seeing the damage, there is no way to give you advice I would have any
confidence in.
Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn?
What wood IS it?
What's the finish?
How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
AND...
What's your budget and time frame? ( I tell my clients about my 2/3
rule... Good, Fast, Inexpensive. Pick two.)
As Leon, Richard and clare have said... find a specialist in your area.
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
In article
<[email protected]>, Leon
<[email protected]> wrote:
> FWIW refinishing an entire surface typically gives much better results and
> is easier than repairing just a portion of that same surface.
Leon, you're absolutely correct.
I recently did a repair for a client that had dents and gouges in one
door of three in a hutch. Stripped and sanded all three, steamed the
wood fibers back up out of the dents and gouges and refinished all
three doors. It was the only way to give her a piece of furniture that
looked good.
> > Am confident similar results can be achieved performing this repair - just
> > not clear on
> > the 'best' way to proceed.
>
> Good luck with that. You may be able to repair the damage but even with a
> good repair the area will probably still be easily detected.
No "probably" about it.
Doug, you are unlikely to achieve what you want. Call a professional.
Unless "good enough" is good enough.
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
If the old finish is still in place in the dented areas that's unlikely
to work well, IME.
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 15:29:53 -0600, Dave Balderstone
> <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>
> >In article <[email protected]>,
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
> >
> >If the old finish is still in place in the dented areas that's unlikely
> >to work well, IME.
> A wet rag layed over the dent and heated with an iron will often
> raise a dent even in "finished" wood - depends on the finish. On a
> high gloss finish less likely than on a matte or semi-matte finish.
You've had better luck at it than I have.
--
"It is the soldier, not the reporter who has given us the freedom of the press.
It is the soldier, not the poet, who has given us the freedom of speech. It is
the soldier, not the campus organizer, who gives us the freedom to demonstrate.
It is the soldier who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose
coffin is draped by the flag, who allows the protester to burn the flag." --
Father Dennis Edward O'Brien, Sergeant, USMC
In article <[email protected]>, Mike Marlow
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Dave Balderstone wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 15:29:53 -0600, Dave Balderstone
> >> <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
> >>
> >>> In article <[email protected]>,
> >>> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
> >>>
> >>> If the old finish is still in place in the dented areas that's
> >>> unlikely to work well, IME.
> >> A wet rag layed over the dent and heated with an iron will often
> >> raise a dent even in "finished" wood - depends on the finish. On a
> >> high gloss finish less likely than on a matte or semi-matte finish.
> >
> > You've had better luck at it than I have.
>
> I've had mixed success with this. I guess it depends on how steeply the
> fibers are crushed/bent.
I find it also depends on whether the dent is running with, or across
the grain. I've had better results when it's with the grain.
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
> Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium reddish / auburn
> color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is mahogany - with a
> deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of the cabinet is
> nearly as new.
>
> The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front, beaded edge,
> approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the front.
>
> Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are suggested as the
> preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type damage - with
> the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this can only be
> achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously undertaken repair of
> this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation worse, use of a
> shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
>
> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever existed - which
> I understand is likely not possible.
>
> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and procedures.
>
> Thanks and Regards,
>
> Doug
You don't sound too confident even after reading repair suggestions. You
are the only one that can actually see the damage and the undamaged area
that you want to match. You are going to probably get a hand full of
suggestions as to how to proceed with the repair, and in the minds of those
giving advice the suggestions will be good. That said they don't see the
damage so really cannot give you any assurance that any method described
will even come close to being correct.
Now my suggestion. Go to a local furniture store and find our who they use
to come in an do repairs like this. These guys typically make the damage
literally disappear. They typically will come to you vs. you taking the
damaged piece to them.
Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks Dave.
>
> Will find a place to post photos for reference and the location.
>
> To address your questions:
>
>> Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn? -
> crushed - the damage being the result of an impact by a narrow edged object.
>
>> What wood IS it?
> Not known. Am continuing research to determine.
>
>> What's the finish?
> Not known - this is a 60's vintage Magnavox console stereo in what appears to be original
> condition.
>
>> How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
> Not clear how to quantify close as regards color match. Goal is for the repaired area to
> appear same as adjacent surface.
>
>> Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
> No.
>
>> Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
> No.
>
>> AND...
>> What's your budget and time frame?
> As this is my own item - not one being repaired for someone else as a favor or for a fee,
> am in no hurry to complete, other than get it finished in a timely manner.
>
> Regarding budget - while the rest of the cabinet is in very good condition, the finish /
> color has worn thin in some areas as well as several areas of minor finish damage to the
> top. Objective is to restore the appearance to as close to as-new as possible Am also
> refurbishing the amp and tuner.
>
> As a point of reference - some time ago I refinished my mahogany front door's exterior
> with very valuable and helpful recommendations / guidance and encouragement of dadiOH. My
> first time to perform such a task so was all new to me. The entire process took many,
> many weeks and the result was everything I expected - both cosmetically and functionally.
>
FWIW refinishing an entire surface typically gives much better results and
is easier than repairing just a portion of that same surface.
> Am confident similar results can be achieved performing this repair - just not clear on
> the 'best' way to proceed.
Good luck with that. You may be able to repair the damage but even with a
good repair the area will probably still be easily detected.
On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:23:21 AM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
> See here for photos of the damage: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35122445@=
N02/=20
As suggested, I would recommend a steaming technique. Delicately scrape th=
e finish from the dented areas, moisten (with a Q-Tip or similar dabber) ju=
st the dented areas, then try to heat just the dented areas, as best as pos=
sible. You want to raise just the dented areas, not affect the surrounding=
areas, if possible. Once you've gotten as much to raise, as possible, the=
n reassess the remaining damage.
For heating, you might try the edge of a clothes iron, soldering iron, wood=
burning iron or similar small heating tool. Just don't burn the wood. Pr=
actice on some scrap wood, first, if need be, before committing to the ster=
eo.
With the introduction of moisture to the area, you may get some whitening o=
f the nearby finished areas. Don't worry about this whitening. Also, the =
nearby finish might raise up, a little, also, possibly even flake off, late=
r. Don't worry about this, either. You'll reassess the remaining results,=
later. Just don't burn the wood during heating/steaming.
Sonny
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 00:23:21 -0600, Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
>See here for photos of the damage: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35122445@N02/
>
>Look forward to comments / suggestions regarding methods of repair.
>
>Doug
>
>
>seancarlos <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>replying to Doug , seancarlos wrote:
>>> doug77494 wrote:
>>>
>>> Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium
>>reddish
>>/ auburn
>>> color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is
>>mahogany - with a
>>> deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of
>>the cabinet is
>>> nearly as new.
>>> The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front,
>>beaded edge,
>>> approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the
>>front.
>>> Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are
>>suggested as the
>>> preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type
>>damage - with
>>> the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this
>>can
>>only be
>>> achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously
>>undertaken repair of
>>> this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation
>>worse, use of a
>>> shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
>>> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
>>existed - which
>>> I understand is likely not possible.
>>> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
>>procedures.
>>> Thanks and Regards,
>>> Doug
>>
>>
>>
>>It is not easy to tell without seeing it so if possible please post some
>>photos from all sides.
Shelac stick or wax stick. You won't make it perfect, or totally
dissapear, but the rest of the case isn't perfect either. For a total
restore you would strip the entire case, cut out the damaged area,
glue in a patch, refinish the edge with the proper router blade, and
refinish. Doing that, it is possible to make a virtually invisible
repair - but count on a minimum 50 hours of labour, spread over
several days to a week, at best.
replying to Doug , seancarlos wrote:
> doug77494 wrote:
>
> Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium
reddish
/ auburn
> color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is
mahogany - with a
> deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of
the cabinet is
> nearly as new.
> The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front,
beaded edge,
> approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the
front.
> Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are
suggested as the
> preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type
damage - with
> the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this
can
only be
> achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously
undertaken repair of
> this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation
worse, use of a
> shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
existed - which
> I understand is likely not possible.
> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
procedures.
> Thanks and Regards,
> Doug
It is not easy to tell without seeing it so if possible please post some
photos from all sides.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/recommendations-for-damage-repair-stereo-cabinet-765962-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups
On Saturday, November 30, 2013 9:02:52 AM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
> For heating, you might try the edge of a clothes iron, soldering iron, wo=
od burning iron or similar small heating tool. Just don't burn the wood. Pr=
actice on some scrap wood, first, if need be, before committing to the ster=
eo.
Heat the wood slowly. Don't try to heat the wood too fast. Slowly raise t=
he temp of the wood/area, to allow the steaming process to slowly work. To=
some extent, just the wetting of the wood will start the raising/swelling =
process. Use hot water to initially wet the areas.
Sonny
Thanks Dave.
Will find a place to post photos for reference and the location.
To address your questions:
>Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn? -
crushed - the damage being the result of an impact by a narrow edged object.
>What wood IS it?
Not known. Am continuing research to determine.
>What's the finish?
Not known - this is a 60's vintage Magnavox console stereo in what appears to be original
condition.
>How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
Not clear how to quantify close as regards color match. Goal is for the repaired area to
appear same as adjacent surface.
>Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
No.
>Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
No.
>AND...
>What's your budget and time frame?
As this is my own item - not one being repaired for someone else as a favor or for a fee,
am in no hurry to complete, other than get it finished in a timely manner.
Regarding budget - while the rest of the cabinet is in very good condition, the finish /
color has worn thin in some areas as well as several areas of minor finish damage to the
top. Objective is to restore the appearance to as close to as-new as possible Am also
refurbishing the amp and tuner.
As a point of reference - some time ago I refinished my mahogany front door's exterior
with very valuable and helpful recommendations / guidance and encouragement of dadiOH. My
first time to perform such a task so was all new to me. The entire process took many,
many weeks and the result was everything I expected - both cosmetically and functionally.
Am confident similar results can be achieved performing this repair - just not clear on
the 'best' way to proceed.
Thanks again and will advise when photos are available.
Doug
Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Doug
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>snip
>
>> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
>> existed - which
>> I understand is likely not possible.
>>
>> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
>> procedures.
>
>I do this kind of work, and I will echo what others are saying: Without
>seeing the damage, there is no way to give you advice I would have any
>confidence in.
>
>Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn?
>What wood IS it?
>What's the finish?
>How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
>Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
>Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
>
>AND...
>What's your budget and time frame? ( I tell my clients about my 2/3
>rule... Good, Fast, Inexpensive. Pick two.)
>
>As Leon, Richard and clare have said... find a specialist in your area.
Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 15:29:53 -0600, Dave Balderstone
>> <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
>>>
>>> If the old finish is still in place in the dented areas that's
>>> unlikely to work well, IME.
>> A wet rag layed over the dent and heated with an iron will often
>> raise a dent even in "finished" wood - depends on the finish. On a
>> high gloss finish less likely than on a matte or semi-matte finish.
>
> You've had better luck at it than I have.
I've had mixed success with this. I guess it depends on how steeply the
fibers are crushed/bent.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/7/2013 7:27 AM, Leon wrote:
> Doug<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium reddish / auburn
>> color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is mahogany - with a
>> deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of the cabinet is
>> nearly as new.
>>
>> The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front, beaded edge,
>> approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the front.
>>
>> Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are suggested as the
>> preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type damage - with
>> the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this can only be
>> achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously undertaken repair of
>> this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation worse, use of a
>> shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
>>
>> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever existed - which
>> I understand is likely not possible.
>>
>> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and procedures.
>>
>> Thanks and Regards,
>>
>> Doug
>
> You don't sound too confident even after reading repair suggestions. You
> are the only one that can actually see the damage and the undamaged area
> that you want to match. You are going to probably get a hand full of
> suggestions as to how to proceed with the repair, and in the minds of those
> giving advice the suggestions will be good. That said they don't see the
> damage so really cannot give you any assurance that any method described
> will even come close to being correct.
>
> Now my suggestion. Go to a local furniture store and find our who they use
> to come in an do repairs like this. These guys typically make the damage
> literally disappear. They typically will come to you vs. you taking the
> damaged piece to them.
Or? Post some pictures somewhere?
On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 01:59:43 -0600, Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
>Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium reddish / auburn
>color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is mahogany - with a
>deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of the cabinet is
>nearly as new.
>
>The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front, beaded edge,
>approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the front.
>
>Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are suggested as the
>preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type damage - with
>the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this can only be
>achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously undertaken repair of
>this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation worse, use of a
>shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
>
>Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever existed - which
>I understand is likely not possible.
>
>Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and procedures.
>
>Thanks and Regards,
>
>Doug
>
>
>
>
find out what furniture repair specialist your local
hotels/restaurants use and get it to him next time he is in town doing
work. It'll cost you a bit, but it will be done well, for less than
it will cost you for the materials and trainig/experiece to do it.
On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 23:22:25 -0600, Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks Dave.
>
>Will find a place to post photos for reference and the location.
>
>To address your questions:
>
>>Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn? -
>crushed - the damage being the result of an impact by a narrow edged object.
>
>>What wood IS it?
>Not known. Am continuing research to determine.
>
>>What's the finish?
>Not known - this is a 60's vintage Magnavox console stereo in what appears to be original
>condition.
>
>>How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
>Not clear how to quantify close as regards color match. Goal is for the repaired area to
>appear same as adjacent surface.
>
>>Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
>No.
>
>>Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
>No.
>
>>AND...
>>What's your budget and time frame?
>As this is my own item - not one being repaired for someone else as a favor or for a fee,
>am in no hurry to complete, other than get it finished in a timely manner.
>
>Regarding budget - while the rest of the cabinet is in very good condition, the finish /
>color has worn thin in some areas as well as several areas of minor finish damage to the
>top. Objective is to restore the appearance to as close to as-new as possible Am also
>refurbishing the amp and tuner.
>
>As a point of reference - some time ago I refinished my mahogany front door's exterior
>with very valuable and helpful recommendations / guidance and encouragement of dadiOH. My
>first time to perform such a task so was all new to me. The entire process took many,
>many weeks and the result was everything I expected - both cosmetically and functionally.
>
>Am confident similar results can be achieved performing this repair - just not clear on
>the 'best' way to proceed.
>
>Thanks again and will advise when photos are available.
>
>Doug
>
>
>
>
>
>Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, Doug
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>snip
>>
>>> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
>>> existed - which
>>> I understand is likely not possible.
>>>
>>> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
>>> procedures.
>>
>>I do this kind of work, and I will echo what others are saying: Without
>>seeing the damage, there is no way to give you advice I would have any
>>confidence in.
>>
>>Are the wood fibers crushed or cut/torn?
>>What wood IS it?
>>What's the finish?
>>How close a color match are you prepared to accept?
>>Will it need hand-drawn faux grain to give the best match?
>>Are there options to hide the damage rather than repair it?
>>
>>AND...
>>What's your budget and time frame? ( I tell my clients about my 2/3
>>rule... Good, Fast, Inexpensive. Pick two.)
>>
>>As Leon, Richard and clare have said... find a specialist in your area.
Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
See here for photos of the damage: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35122445@N02/
Look forward to comments / suggestions regarding methods of repair.
Doug
seancarlos <[email protected]> wrote:
>replying to Doug , seancarlos wrote:
>> doug77494 wrote:
>>
>> Have an early 60s Magnavox console stereo in mahogany finish (medium
>reddish
>/ auburn
>> color) - do not know what species of wood, although do not believe is
>mahogany - with a
>> deep gash in the top on the front edge. Other than slight wear the rest of
>the cabinet is
>> nearly as new.
>> The damage is a dent / narrow gouge at a near right angle to the front,
>beaded edge,
>> approx. 3/16 in. deep x 1/8 in. wide x 1.5 in. long, tapering from the
>front.
>> Checking my few furniture / finish repair books, shellac sticks are
>suggested as the
>> preferred solution, followed by wood dough / putty for repairing this type
>damage - with
>> the caveat that while a shellac stick will provide the best result, this
>can
>only be
>> achieved by someone with extensive experience. Not having previously
>undertaken repair of
>> this type damage by any method, and not wanting to make a bad situation
>worse, use of a
>> shellac stick may not be the way for me to go.
>> Desired result is to repair the damage with no to minimal evidence it ever
>existed - which
>> I understand is likely not possible.
>> Very much appreciate any and all recommendations for specific products and
>procedures.
>> Thanks and Regards,
>> Doug
>
>
>
>It is not easy to tell without seeing it so if possible please post some
>photos from all sides.
replying to Doug , seancarlos wrote:
> doug77494 wrote:
>
> See here for photos of the damage:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35122445@N02/
> Look forward to comments / suggestions regarding methods of repair.
> Doug
For these I would suggest you to go with wood filler,as it a deep damage
then sand it down with a 2 stages of fine grit like 120 first then 220
last and then stain it and at last polish and let dry.
--
--
On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 15:29:53 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Try steaming it to see if the dent will relax???
>
>If the old finish is still in place in the dented areas that's unlikely
>to work well, IME.
A wet rag layed over the dent and heated with an iron will often
raise a dent even in "finished" wood - depends on the finish. On a
high gloss finish less likely than on a matte or semi-matte finish.