As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.
Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.
I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.
On Monday, January 21, 2013 2:49:44 PM UTC-10, John Doe wrote:
> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>
> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>
> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>
> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>
> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>
> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>
> in my pocket.
>
>
>
> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>
> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>
> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>
> shaft.
>
>
>
> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>
> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>
> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>
>
>
> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>
> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>
> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>
> a rotary tool.
A few years ago Milwaukee came out with a drill that used batteries and was able to use an adapter that attached where the battery was inserted and could be plugged into an outlet. I don't remember was they called it so couldn't find via Google.
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:47:30 -0600, "HeyBub" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>John Doe wrote:
>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>> in my pocket.
>>
>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>> shaft.
>>
>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>
>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>> a rotary tool.
>
>I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
>dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
>circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
>access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
>
Replace it with a male plug..and put your transformer and rectifier in
a box with a power cord and plug for the wall.
Its much easier to find a place to heat sink and mount in a small
box..then it is to find a place in the drill.
Seriously
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
"Steve W." <csr684 NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
> John Doe wrote:
>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>> in my pocket.
>>
>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>> shaft.
>>
>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>
>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>> a rotary tool.
>
>
> There are a few items like that sold for rescue work. Saws and such
> where the small battery packs don't last long enough to finish rapidly.
> Also a few others.
Any pictures? Any names? Any keywords? Ever see one?
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 00:40:16 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
<7ca03919-2b39-4747-aa9f-7769bd070290@u16g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>):
> On Jan 26, 10:29 am, Bruce <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
>> (in article
>> <daf0afd5-d687-4250-b9bc-ef6ea0453...@l13g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>):
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> John Doe wrote:
>>>>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>>>>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>>>>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>>>>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>>>>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>>>>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>>>>> in my pocket.
>>
>>>>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>>>>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>>>>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>>>>> shaft.
>>
>>>>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>>>>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>>>>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>
>>>>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>>>>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>>>>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>>>>> a rotary tool.
>>
>>>> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing
>>>> the
>>>> dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
>>>> circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
>>>> access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
>>
>>> Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
>>> The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
>>> is easily set with 2 resistors.
>>
>> Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
>> do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
>> substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
>> correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.
>
> Drawing more than 3 amps will just shut down the regulator until
> load is removed. Adding a pass transistor (or several) should remedy
> the problem.
>
>> I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
>> with a switching power supply built into the battery pack. A nice way to
>> swap between cordless and corded.
>>
>> Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
>> market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They
>> have
>> nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
>> (mcmelectronics.com for one)
>>
>> You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers
>> for
>> real cheap.
>> Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
>> switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.
>>
>> -Bruce
>
> What does a cheap auto battery charger go for? Handy for other
> things besides powering a drill, such as derusting old iron.
>
Not exactly what I'd call portable, but you can get battery chargers (new)
for about $10
They usually have a funky voltage regulation curve so speed control may act
weird but it would be worth trying.
-Bruce
On Jan 26, 10:29=A0am, Bruce <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
> (in article
> <daf0afd5-d687-4250-b9bc-ef6ea0453...@l13g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>):
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> John Doe wrote:
> >>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
> >>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
> >>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
> >>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
> >>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
> >>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
> >>> in my pocket.
>
> >>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
> >>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
> >>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
> >>> shaft.
>
> >>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
> >>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
> >>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>
> >>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
> >>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
> >>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
> >>> a rotary tool.
>
> >> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replaci=
ng the
> >> dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
> >> circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I =
have
> >> access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
>
> > Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
> > The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
> > is easily set with 2 resistors.
>
> Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated too=
ls
> do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
> substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
> correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.
Drawing more than 3 amps will just shut down the regulator until
load is removed. Adding a pass transistor (or several) should remedy
the problem.
> I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitt=
ed
> with a switching power supply =A0built into the battery pack. A nice way =
to
> swap between cordless and corded.
>
> Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
> market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They =
have
> nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of place=
s
> (mcmelectronics.com for one)
>
> You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers=
for
> real cheap.
> Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
> switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller packag=
e.
>
> -Bruce
What does a cheap auto battery charger go for? Handy for other
things besides powering a drill, such as derusting old iron.
On Jan 22, 9:47=A0am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
> John Doe wrote:
> > As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
> > use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
> > batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
> > into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
> > battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
> > cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
> > in my pocket.
>
> > Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
> > extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
> > stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
> > shaft.
>
> > I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
> > stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
> > Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>
> > Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
> > big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
> > about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
> > a rotary tool.
>
> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing =
the
> dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
> circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I hav=
e
> access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.
John Doe wrote:
> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
> in my pocket.
>
> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
> shaft.
>
> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>
> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
> a rotary tool.
I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 08:29:34 -0700, Bruce <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
>(in article
><daf0afd5-d687-4250-b9bc-ef6ea04535c5@l13g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>):
>
>> On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> John Doe wrote:
>>>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>>>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>>>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>>>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>>>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>>>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>>>> in my pocket.
>>>
>>>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>>>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>>>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>>>> shaft.
>>>
>>>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>>>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>>>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>>
>>>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>>>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>>>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>>>> a rotary tool.
>>>
>>> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
>>> dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
>>> circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
>>> access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
>>
>> Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
>> The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
>> is easily set with 2 resistors.
>
>Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
>do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
>substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
>correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.
>
>I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
>with a switching power supply built into the battery pack. A nice way to
>swap between cordless and corded.
>
>Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
>market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They have
>nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
>(mcmelectronics.com for one)
>
>You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers for
>real cheap.
>Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
>switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.
>
>-Bruce
As for Computer Power Supplies...one may find them free or nearly so
by simply looking in the phone book for "computer recycliers"
Several that I visit regularly will have several cubic Yards of them
on hand, ready to be run through the shredders and I can take a
clothes basket full of them for little or nothing
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
John Doe wrote:
> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
> in my pocket.
>
> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
> shaft.
>
> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>
> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
> a rotary tool.
There are a few items like that sold for rescue work. Saws and such
where the small battery packs don't last long enough to finish rapidly.
Also a few others.
--
Steve W.
Uffe Bærentsen <leiti_FJERNES_ hotmail.com> wrote:
> John Doe skrev:
>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>> use Bosch batteries.
>
> Dremel is owned by: Bosch ;-)
Okay...
--
> Look at the copyright line at the very bottom of this page:
> http://www.dremel.com/Pages/default.aspx
>
>
>
Gunner wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:47:30 -0600, "HeyBub" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> John Doe wrote:
>>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>>> in my pocket.
>>>
>>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>>> shaft.
>>>
>>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>>
>>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>>> a rotary tool.
>>
>> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and
>> replacing the dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and
>> small rectifier circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool
>> gives out, AND I have access to 120v, I can keep going with only a
>> small inconvience.
>>
> Replace it with a male plug..and put your transformer and rectifier in
> a box with a power cord and plug for the wall.
>
> Its much easier to find a place to heat sink and mount in a small
> box..then it is to find a place in the drill.
>
Good idea. Thanks.
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
<daf0afd5-d687-4250-b9bc-ef6ea04535c5@l13g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>):
> On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> John Doe wrote:
>>> As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
>>> use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
>>> batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
>>> into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
>>> battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
>>> cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
>>> in my pocket.
>>
>>> Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
>>> extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
>>> stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
>>> shaft.
>>
>>> I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
>>> stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
>>> Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.
>>
>>> Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
>>> big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
>>> about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
>>> a rotary tool.
>>
>> I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
>> dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
>> circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
>> access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.
>
> Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
> The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
> is easily set with 2 resistors.
Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.
I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
with a switching power supply built into the battery pack. A nice way to
swap between cordless and corded.
Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They have
nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
(mcmelectronics.com for one)
You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers for
real cheap.
Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.
-Bruce