Here is a desk project with Oak Banding and Oak plywood.
The infamous scrap wood tray is there as well -- trimmed with walnut.
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/productsbusiness/productsfurniture.html
Go for it!
Larry Bud wrote:
> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
> The shelved are actually quite small (maybe 6'x7" each, but there are
> 20 of them).
>
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
B a r r y wrote:
> Larry Bud wrote:
>> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
>> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
> Only if you're selling it and representing it as solid wood, fine
> furniture.
I'd say in this day and age "solid wood" could even include ply, as long as
it's real ply, with real veneer, and everything is tastefully done. I have
a $5 auction special desk made of solid oak, but some sections of the oak
are rotated perpendicular to other sections. I don't see that as a problem
quality wise. (Especially since I got it for $5. I've gloated about that
too many times in the past to re-gloat it though.) Except for the obvious
banding around the top, it's not at all obvious that any of it is ply.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
How does it outperform solid wood? Most solid hardwoods can handle loads
in excess of PLY?
Yes ply is acceptable... absolutely.. but I don't know other than price
how it outperforms solid hardwood.
I like the spline and reglue idea, but with my luck I would be out
enough to not be able to clean it up without sanding thru..
I don't suppose you are using the Plano panel clamp.... which has
integral cauls... or the other variant ... using 2x4 that have been cut
in half... it would seem the only way to quickly assure a clean joint.
B a r r y wrote:
> Larry Bud wrote:
>
>> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
>> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
>
> Only if you're selling it and representing it as solid wood, fine
> furniture.
>
> For items like shelves, built-ins, and cabinets, plywood can actually
> outperform solid stock. I've even cut plywood, splined it, and reglued
> it to create a glued-up board look. Carefully done, with plywood made
> from good quality veneer, it's quite convincing.
>
> Barry
"TaskMule" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
> news:H%[email protected]...
> > Larry Bud wrote:
> > > Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak
ply
> > > for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
> The key is to buy oak veneered plywood that is refered to as "flat sliced
> veneer", not "rotary cut"
>
>
That's the way to make it look closest, though I'm curious what thickness
ply you'll be using. 6x7 shelves suggest some 1/4 resawn solid stock to me.
Probably a push in price, and no hassle with edging.
On 8 Feb 2005 11:21:28 -0800, "Larry Bud" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
>for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
>The shelved are actually quite small (maybe 6'x7" each, but there are
>20 of them).
Nothing wrong. Ply is strong and dimensionally stable. It does have
ugly edges to contend with though.
Last year I made a desk add on for my wife - Looked better than the
original commercial work. I recently added a large pull-out tray for
holding paper work while doing accounting. The original desk was
Particle board (not even MDF) - with melamine pickled Oak finish.
On the original work I used Rotary saw veneer Oak 3/4 and 5/8 ply - and
made oak banding out of a small piece of Oak. Even did steam bending of
the banding for the curved cut-outs at the bottom.
The tray was going to be a quick "batch job" since I did not have a
clear piece of oak left for the banding - and the tray was made of scrap
plywood from the original project.
I glued two 10"wide ply pieces for the tray -- roughly 20" X 20" glued
up. Then, I hid the seam with a strip of Walnut -- since the seam was
pretty bad actually. After looking at the effect, I canceled the trip to
buy some more Oak. I finished the tray with walnut edging. The contrast
looks nice, and the ugly seam is now a "feature" with the walnut inlay.
The dark trim around the "pickled Oak" finish looks great. All the wood
except the walnut was scrap. So total cost of the tray is about $.51
($.01 for the glue, $.50 worth of walnut :-) Plus labour -- about 2
hours including finishing.
So just use your imagination. Even consider contrasting materials.
For the heck of it I will post a link to the desk later -- showing the
original add on and the "new" style..
Larry Bud wrote:
> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
> The shelved are actually quite small (maybe 6'x7" each, but there are
> 20 of them).
>
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
No. Not at all. BUT, if you are only using 20% of the sheet of plywood
sometimes hard wood is cheaper with less waste.
>
> The shelved are actually quite small (maybe 6'x7" each, but there are
> 20 of them).
>
Larry Bud wrote:
> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
Only if you're selling it and representing it as solid wood, fine furniture.
For items like shelves, built-ins, and cabinets, plywood can actually
outperform solid stock. I've even cut plywood, splined it, and reglued
it to create a glued-up board look. Carefully done, with plywood made
from good quality veneer, it's quite convincing.
Barry
Yes, for shelves there is not nearly as much stress across the grain as
the length...
toller wrote:
>>How does it outperform solid wood? Most solid hardwoods can handle loads
>>in excess of PLY?
>
>
> Not cross grain
>
>>Yes ply is acceptable... absolutely.. but I don't know other than price
>>how it outperforms solid hardwood.
>>
>
>
> Stability
>
>
>>I like the spline and reglue idea,
>
>
> Odd, I think it is terrible idea. I put a lot of work into matching to
> avoid seeing glue lines, and he is creating them for no purpose. Well, each
> to his own.
>
>
Sometimes the wood is not very intersting and breaking it up can help to
make it more interesting.... sometimes it can be disturbing..
> How does it outperform solid wood? Most solid hardwoods can handle loads
> in excess of PLY?
Not cross grain
>
> Yes ply is acceptable... absolutely.. but I don't know other than price
> how it outperforms solid hardwood.
>
Stability
> I like the spline and reglue idea,
Odd, I think it is terrible idea. I put a lot of work into matching to
avoid seeing glue lines, and he is creating them for no purpose. Well, each
to his own.
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 20:09:11 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Bud wrote:
>> Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
>> for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
>Only if you're selling it and representing it as solid wood, fine furniture.
>
>For items like shelves, built-ins, and cabinets, plywood can actually
>outperform solid stock. I've even cut plywood, splined it, and reglued
>it to create a glued-up board look. Carefully done, with plywood made
>from good quality veneer, it's quite convincing.
>
>Barry
Now I feel really stupid. That is a clever idea (that I never thought of).
-- Igor
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:H%[email protected]...
> Larry Bud wrote:
> > Making a DVD cabinet, and was thinking of saving some $$ to use oak ply
> > for shelves and edge them. Anything wrong with this?
>
> Only if you're selling it and representing it as solid wood, fine
furniture.
>
> For items like shelves, built-ins, and cabinets, plywood can actually
> outperform solid stock. I've even cut plywood, splined it, and reglued
> it to create a glued-up board look. Carefully done, with plywood made
> from good quality veneer, it's quite convincing.
>
> Barry
The key is to buy oak veneered plywood that is refered to as "flat sliced
veneer", not "rotary cut"
There's nothing cheap about veneered plywood, it's regularly used in
high-end cabinets. I use cherry and tiger maple veneered ply regularly. It's
very expensive.