Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange reference
is on the left side vs right side a problem?
I guess this would be an issue with using dado blades or when switching from
regular kerf to thin kerf. You'd have to dial in the fence for each blade.
In the case of dadoes maybe you just reference the left cutting edge---mmm..
but that's actually going to be an 1/8" off assuming your using a regular
kerf blade or 3/32nd for a thin kerf. That starts to get ugly.
I guess the tilting might also need to be taken into account, though I'm not
sure it makes any difference if it's right vs left tilt. I don't do enough
beveled cuts to remember if on my right tilt saw if either the short or long
edge of the cut is referenced to my fence reading.
It kinda seems to me with a right side extension table and fence
measurements, a right tilt saw is best (from a consistency of measure
perspective).
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2008022815563116807-at@yourhousenet...
> On 2008-02-25 12:50:30 -0500, "Kevin"
> <[email protected]> said:
>
> You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
> fence rail?
>
> I don't!
>
Absolutely, but you can't have a goofey saw and or fence.
>
> I always have considered the tape on the fence rail to be a
> convenience, not a precision measurement.
>
> I don't consider using a tape measure to check the distance to be a
> precision measurement either, but generally better than reading from
> the scale on the table saw.
I felt that way too until I got a Biesemeyer fence. Its tape and
hairline cursor are MUCH more precise than a tape or rule, and faster
& easier to read too. I've checked the width of ripped pieces with a
dial caliper and consistently found them to be within 0.01 inch of the
intended width. Maybe you can do that with a tape, but I can't.
DonkeyHody
"I'd rather expect the best of people and be wrong than expect the
worst and be right."
Kevin wrote:
> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange
reference
> is on the left side vs right side a problem?
>
> I guess this would be an issue with using dado blades or when
switching from
> regular kerf to thin kerf.
I almost never use thin-kerf blades, so it isn't really an issue. Dado
sets get measured to the fence or buried in a sacrificial fence.
> I guess the tilting might also need to be taken into account, though
I'm not
> sure it makes any difference if it's right vs left tilt. I don't do
enough
> beveled cuts to remember if on my right tilt saw if either the short
or long
> edge of the cut is referenced to my fence reading.
For bevel cuts you generally want the blade to tilt away from the fence
for safety, so you have the same measurement issue with either tilt
direction.
Chris
What seems error prone on a LT w/ dado is the fact that your fence is
referencing the right side cutting edge of a regular kerf blade. 1/8" of
cut is to the left of that point. Now when you stack on the dado, you are
widening the cut to the right of there. So your fence reference point is
actually 1/8" from the left side of the groove/rabbet. Basically I guess
the rule to remember on a LT w/ dado is the cut line begins 1/8" to the left
of where the fence reads.
With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of the
groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and thickness of
dado.
I guess if one does a lot of dadoes either 1) they opt for RT or 2) they
learn the procedure to adjust
Another poster resolved one issue by saying use only reg kerf blades. I
wonder if Forrest will swap a new reg. kerf blade for the thin kerf one I
still have in the box.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange
>> reference is on the left side vs right side a problem?
>>
>> I guess this would be an issue with using dado blades or when switching
>> from regular kerf to thin kerf. You'd have to dial in the fence for each
>> blade. In the case of dadoes maybe you just reference the left cutting
>> edge---mmm.. but that's actually going to be an 1/8" off assuming your
>> using a regular kerf blade or 3/32nd for a thin kerf. That starts to get
>> ugly.
>>
>> I guess the tilting might also need to be taken into account, though I'm
>> not sure it makes any difference if it's right vs left tilt. I don't do
>> enough beveled cuts to remember if on my right tilt saw if either the
>> short or long edge of the cut is referenced to my fence reading.
>>
>> It kinda seems to me with a right side extension table and fence
>> measurements, a right tilt saw is best (from a consistency of measure
>> perspective).
>
>
> I have a left tilt and this measurement situation only comes in to play
> when I use a dado set. I NEVER use thin kerf blades any more. The left
> tilts have several small and big advantages that out weigh this situation
> IMHO, especially if you are right handed.
>
So why do we have tape measures on the fence guide?
I rarely use a tape measure on my tablesaw. That's the whole point of
having a Biesemeyer style fence with integrated rule. Set it once and
forget about it.
For the folks still using a rule to setup their saw, then this discussion
does not apply.
What next? Should I check the front and rear measurements of the fence?
C'mon.. There's only 2 reasons to have a t-square type fence:
1) parallel to the blade at all times
2) integrated ruler
On 2008-02-25 12:50:30 -0500, "Kevin"
<[email protected]> said:
> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange reference
> is on the left side vs right side a problem?
>
> I guess this would be an issue with using dado blades or when switching from
> regular kerf to thin kerf. You'd have to dial in the fence for each blade.
> In the case of dadoes maybe you just reference the left cutting edge---mmm..
> but that's actually going to be an 1/8" off assuming your using a regular
> kerf blade or 3/32nd for a thin kerf. That starts to get ugly.
>
> I guess the tilting might also need to be taken into account, though I'm not
> sure it makes any difference if it's right vs left tilt. I don't do enough
> beveled cuts to remember if on my right tilt saw if either the short or long
> edge of the cut is referenced to my fence reading.
>
> It kinda seems to me with a right side extension table and fence
> measurements, a right tilt saw is best (from a consistency of measure
> perspective).
You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
fence rail?
I don't!
On 2008-02-28 22:52:00 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> said:
>
> "Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
>> fence rail?
>>
>> I don't!
>>
> Goofy? Not mine, it is extremely precise with the Beis fence. Shame yours
> is not reliable.
I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just
don't trust it.
My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use
bar stock for setting height, etc.
Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence
rail or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the
plastic lens that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index
change, or the lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
better, I figure. YMMV.
On 2008-02-25 23:10:58 -0500, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> said:
>
> "Swingman" wrote:
>
>> Therefore, and when working with expen$ive wood, the requirement to
> verify,
>> verify ... and verify again.
>>
>> ... nuff said.
>
> "Measure twice, cut once" or whatever floats your boat.
As someone else once said,
"You can always cut more off, but you can't cut MORON!"
On 2008-02-25 21:23:30 -0500, DonkeyHody <[email protected]> said:
>>
>> I always have considered the tape on the fence rail to be a
>> convenience, not a precision measurement.
>>
>> I don't consider using a tape measure to check the distance to be a
>> precision measurement either, but generally better than reading from
>> the scale on the table saw.
>
> I felt that way too until I got a Biesemeyer fence. Its tape and
> hairline cursor are MUCH more precise than a tape or rule, and faster
> & easier to read too. I've checked the width of ripped pieces with a
> dial caliper and consistently found them to be within 0.01 inch of the
> intended width. Maybe you can do that with a tape, but I can't.
Yeah but can you get it to within two THOUSANDTHS? ;-)
On 2008-02-29 12:19:32 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]> said:
>
> "Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:2008022906431977923-at@yourhousenet...
>> On 2008-02-28 22:52:00 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> said:
>>
>> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just don't
>> trust it.
>
> If you had a good fence you would not give it a second thought.
>
>
>> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use bar
>> stock for setting height, etc.
>
> I usta do that when I had a piss poor fence.
>
>
>>
>> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence rail
>> or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the plastic lens
>> that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index change, or the
>> lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>>
>> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
>> better, I figure. YMMV.
>
>
> Measuring between the blade and the fence increases those links and chance
> for error. If you don't hold the rule perpendicular to the blade or fence
> you can end up with a cut that is too narrow. Most all modern fences these
> days offer repeatable accuracy.
Ain't that why they put a square end on the Starrett rule?
(Yep, everybody knows those Powermatic 66s are a POS.)
Rock on.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> With an upside down backward tape measure I was often known to adjust 23
> and 1/4" to actually cut 22 and 3/4".
Then you have to turn it over and cut the other side to get it right.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> With an upside down backward tape measure I was often known to adjust 23
>> and 1/4" to actually cut 22 and 3/4".
>
> Then you have to turn it over and cut the other side to get it right.
>
Ohhhh..
DonkeyHody wrote:
> I felt that way too until I got a Biesemeyer fence. Its tape and
> hairline cursor are MUCH more precise than a tape or rule, and faster
> & easier to read too. I've checked the width of ripped pieces with a
> dial caliper and consistently found them to be within 0.01 inch of the
> intended width. Maybe you can do that with a tape, but I can't.
I've found the same to be true even on my Ridgid TS3650 stock fence.
"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Kevin wrote:
>> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange
>> reference is on the left side vs right side a problem?
> ...
>
> Why is it any different an issue at all?
With left tilt saws dado/thicker blades become wider in the direction
towards the fence. This throws off the fence measurement. Typically right
tilts stack away from the fence and do not affect the fence scale.
"Kevin" wrote
> What next? Should I check the front and rear measurements of the fence?
> C'mon.. There's only 2 reasons to have a t-square type fence:
> 1) parallel to the blade at all times
> 2) integrated ruler
Mine is a Uni-fence on a Unisaw ... it is precision personified, and the
fence ruler happens to correspond _perfectly_ to my two favorite Stanley 12'
rulers, a rare and happy circumstance in the shop and one to take every
advantage of, and to cherish til death do us part.
HOWEVER, the operator is often NOT precision personified ... he has been
known to set the fence to 23 3/8" instead of the required 23 5/8", or
somesuch ... and on more than one occasion.
Therefore, and when working with expen$ive wood, the requirement to verify,
verify ... and verify again.
... nuff said.
(Maybe you just haven't reached that "certain" age?)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
> For bevel cuts you generally want the blade to tilt away from the fence
> for safety, so you have the same measurement issue with either tilt
> direction.
>
> Chris
Regarding the safety point: As an example, imagine the kickback that could
be generated from the following:
Second bevel cut on a board on the opposite edge of the first bevel cut.
First bevel cut begins to slip under the rip fence
Now the board is trapped on three sides, left, right and top, as the blade
is tilted toward the fence, and to finish the cut, the back of the board
needs to move out from under the fence and toward the blade.
Nastiest case of kickback I could imagine and I wouldn't even want to be in
the room if it happened.
> >> You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
> >> fence rail?
>
> >> I don't!
>
> > Goofy? =A0Not mine, it is extremely precise with the Beis fence. =A0Sham=
e yours
> > is not reliable.
>
> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just
> don't trust it.
>
> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use
> bar stock for setting height, etc.
>
> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence
> rail or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the
> plastic lens that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index
> change, or the lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>
> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
> better, I figure. YMMV.
A few years ago, my nephew was in the high school marching band. When
it was time for the local Christmas parade, my sister - proud parent
that she was - videotaped the band as they passed by. Christmas Day
we were all gathered around the television to re-live his moment of
glory. As we all watched the video, my nephew exclaimed, "Hey look,
everybody's out of step but me!"
Keep doing it your way Jones, everybody's out of step but you.
DonkeyHody
"We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom
that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits
down
on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid
again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold
one anymore." - Mark Twain
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What seems error prone on a LT w/ dado is the fact that your fence is
> referencing the right side cutting edge of a regular kerf blade. 1/8" of
> cut is to the left of that point. Now when you stack on the dado, you are
> widening the cut to the right of there. So your fence reference point is
> actually 1/8" from the left side of the groove/rabbet. Basically I guess
> the rule to remember on a LT w/ dado is the cut line begins 1/8" to the
> left of where the fence reads.
HUH? The thing to remember when using a dado set on a LT is to simply
measure between the fence and the right most blade with a tape measure.
>
> With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of
> the groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and
> thickness of dado.
Not!
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> HUH? The thing to remember when using a dado set on a LT is to simply
>> measure between the fence and the right most blade with a tape measure.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of
>>> the groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and
>>> thickness of dado.
>>
>> Not!
>
>
> Not, as in , just use a tape measure. ;~)
>
Folding rule. Amazing how a convenience - having a tape on the fence - has
become a necessity, what? The most important thing to remember with either
tilt is to make sure your measurement to the inside is not identical to the
measurment on your drawing for the outside of the dado.
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2008022906431977923-at@yourhousenet...
> On 2008-02-28 22:52:00 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> said:
>
> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just don't
> trust it.
If you had a good fence you would not give it a second thought.
> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use bar
> stock for setting height, etc.
I usta do that when I had a piss poor fence.
>
> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence rail
> or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the plastic lens
> that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index change, or the
> lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>
> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
> better, I figure. YMMV.
Measuring between the blade and the fence increases those links and chance
for error. If you don't hold the rule perpendicular to the blade or fence
you can end up with a cut that is too narrow. Most all modern fences these
days offer repeatable accuracy.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Swingman" wrote:
>
>> Therefore, and when working with expen$ive wood, the requirement to
> verify,
>> verify ... and verify again.
>>
>> ... nuff said.
>
> "Measure twice, cut once" or whatever floats your boat.
Exactly, that is the reason to use a tape. Some times a measurement looks
totally different when the fraction of an inch is on the other side of the
whole number. ;~)
With an upside down backward tape measure I was often known to adjust 23 and
1/4" to actually cut 22 and 3/4".
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange
> reference is on the left side vs right side a problem?
>
> I guess this would be an issue with using dado blades or when switching
> from regular kerf to thin kerf. You'd have to dial in the fence for each
> blade. In the case of dadoes maybe you just reference the left cutting
> edge---mmm.. but that's actually going to be an 1/8" off assuming your
> using a regular kerf blade or 3/32nd for a thin kerf. That starts to get
> ugly.
>
> I guess the tilting might also need to be taken into account, though I'm
> not sure it makes any difference if it's right vs left tilt. I don't do
> enough beveled cuts to remember if on my right tilt saw if either the
> short or long edge of the cut is referenced to my fence reading.
>
> It kinda seems to me with a right side extension table and fence
> measurements, a right tilt saw is best (from a consistency of measure
> perspective).
I have a left tilt and this measurement situation only comes in to play when
I use a dado set. I NEVER use thin kerf blades any more. The left tilts
have several small and big advantages that out weigh this situation IMHO,
especially if you are right handed.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:13s747p2ulhpe37
@corp.supernews.com:
> "Measure twice, cut once" or whatever floats your boat.
>
> Lew
>
If I stopped at the second measurement, nothing would fit!
I like the saying "you can always remove more wood, but you can't add
any." (There's also "Cut it twice and it's still too short!!!")
Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
>> With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of
> the
>> groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and thickness
> of
>> dado.
>
> Best not to do any"accounting" at all ... that would be error prone as all
> get out, especially when you start adding shims to a dado stack. :)
>
> Good habit to get into with any table saw cut, regardless of left or right
> tilt, is to ALWAYS verify the blade to fence setting with your project
> tape
> measure.
>
> Besides verifying the correct width of cut, it also verifies that you
> indeed
> set the fence correctly ... something the resident shop dummy here has
> been
> known to do, without any help whatsoever.
>
> ... funny how the air turns blue whenever that happens on that last piece
> of
> figured, high dollar wood!
>
> DAMHIKT
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 12/14/07
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
DINGDINGDINGDING!!!!!!!!!!!
Ladies and Gentlemen, We have a winner!
I ___NEVER___ use the scale for anything other than getting
sorta-kinda-inakissin'cousin-kinda way close. Then I actually measure from
the blade to the fence.
I got into this habit as a kid because the saw that my father had had about
the worst POS fence that sears ever put on a saw...but dad never figured he
needed more...or that there was better out there, so I couldn't trust the
scale at all.
In fact, couldn't trust the thing to clamp straight, either.
Mike
"The Davenport's" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> --
>> www.e-woodshop.net
>> Last update: 12/14/07
>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
>
>
> DINGDINGDINGDING!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen, We have a winner!
>
> I ___NEVER___ use the scale for anything other than getting
> sorta-kinda-inakissin'cousin-kinda way close. Then I actually measure from
> the blade to the fence.
>
> I got into this habit as a kid because the saw that my father had had
> about the worst POS fence that sears ever put on a saw...but dad never
> figured he needed more...or that there was better out there, so I couldn't
> trust the scale at all.
>
> In fact, couldn't trust the thing to clamp straight, either.
>
> Mike
ding dong? You need a better fence. I measured for some 13 or so years
and could not wait to simply depend on the fence scale. For the last 10
years I have been using 2 different Jet fences, Bies clones. Both were
repeatable accurate. I only use the tape measure when using something that
cuts wider than 1/8" or when cutting bevel cuts.
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2008022918280975249-at@yourhousenet...
> On 2008-02-29 12:19:32 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]> said:
>
> (Yep, everybody knows those Powermatic 66s are a POS.)
>
> Rock on.
>
>
Yeah, If you have a PM 66. Not likely you have one and cannot depend on the
fence to give you good readings.
>> DINGDINGDINGDING!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> Ladies and Gentlemen, We have a winner!
>>
>> I ___NEVER___ use the scale for anything other than getting
>> sorta-kinda-inakissin'cousin-kinda way close. Then I actually measure
>> from the blade to the fence.
>>
>> I got into this habit as a kid because the saw that my father had had
>> about the worst POS fence that sears ever put on a saw...but dad never
>> figured he needed more...or that there was better out there, so I
>> couldn't trust the scale at all.
>>
>> In fact, couldn't trust the thing to clamp straight, either.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> ding dong? You need a better fence. I measured for some 13 or so years
> and could not wait to simply depend on the fence scale. For the last 10
> years I have been using 2 different Jet fences, Bies clones. Both were
> repeatable accurate. I only use the tape measure when using something
> that cuts wider than 1/8" or when cutting bevel cuts.
I HAVE a better fence now...it was Dad that was too cheap to buy a different
one.
I don't have a Tee-square fence, but the one I have now is good and the
price was right. The fact that I still measure each cut is a habit I've
tried to get away from, but I just can't seem to do it...a little bit OCD
about it, I guess.
Mike
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2008022906431977923-at@yourhousenet...
> On 2008-02-28 22:52:00 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> said:
>
>>
>> "Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
>>> fence rail?
>>>
>>> I don't!
>>>
>> Goofy? Not mine, it is extremely precise with the Beis fence. Shame
>> yours
>> is not reliable.
>
> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just don't
> trust it.
>
> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use bar
> stock for setting height, etc.
>
> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence rail
> or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the plastic lens
> that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index change, or the
> lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>
> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
> better, I figure. YMMV.
>
>
That is probably the best approach with your quality tool phobia.
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:08:33 -0700, "Kevin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>So why do we have tape measures on the fence guide?
>
>I rarely use a tape measure on my tablesaw. That's the whole point of
>having a Biesemeyer style fence with integrated rule. Set it once and
>forget about it.
>
>For the folks still using a rule to setup their saw, then this discussion
>does not apply.
>
>What next? Should I check the front and rear measurements of the fence?
>C'mon.. There's only 2 reasons to have a t-square type fence:
>1) parallel to the blade at all times
>2) integrated ruler
I always have considered the tape on the fence rail to be a
convenience, not a precision measurement.
I don't consider using a tape measure to check the distance to be a
precision measurement either, but generally better than reading from
the scale on the table saw.
Leon wrote:
> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Kevin wrote:
>>> Have any of you with left tilt saws found the fact that the flange
>>> reference is on the left side vs right side a problem?
>> ...
>>
>> Why is it any different an issue at all?
>
>
> With left tilt saws dado/thicker blades become wider in the direction
> towards the fence. ...
'Pends on which side the fence is on... :)
--
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just don't
>> trust it.
>>
>> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use bar
>> stock for setting height, etc.
>>
>> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence rail
>> or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the plastic lens
>> that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index change, or the
>> lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>>
>> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
>> better, I figure. YMMV.
>
> You worry too much. With my old saw, I'd agree. With my Delta and
> Beisemeyer fence, the shortest and fewest links is to trust the fence as it
> is accurate and repeatable and firmly locks to where the line is pointing on
> the scale. More accurate than a shifting fence when you lock it after
> measuring.
>
> Sorry you have an inadequate tool.
>
>
LOL.
--
Tanus
http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Mine is a Uni-fence on a Unisaw ... it is precision personified, and the
> fence ruler happens to correspond _perfectly_ to my two favorite Stanley
> 12'
> rulers, a rare and happy circumstance in the shop and one to take every
> advantage of, and to cherish til death do us part.
And as testament to the accuracy of your Unifence and some one else's Jet
Bies clone fence is that they both cut parts on 2 different saws and they
all fit together. ;~)
"Kevin" wrote
> With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of
the
> groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and thickness
of
> dado.
Best not to do any"accounting" at all ... that would be error prone as all
get out, especially when you start adding shims to a dado stack. :)
Good habit to get into with any table saw cut, regardless of left or right
tilt, is to ALWAYS verify the blade to fence setting with your project tape
measure.
Besides verifying the correct width of cut, it also verifies that you indeed
set the fence correctly ... something the resident shop dummy here has been
known to do, without any help whatsoever.
... funny how the air turns blue whenever that happens on that last piece of
figured, high dollar wood!
DAMHIKT
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> You mean people actually *USE* those goofy stick-on rules glued to the
> fence rail?
>
> I don't!
>
Goofy? Not mine, it is extremely precise with the Beis fence. Shame yours
is not reliable.
"Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I suppose I could loosen the screws and move the pointer, but I just don't
> trust it.
>
> My default is to use the rule between the fence and the blade...or use bar
> stock for setting height, etc.
>
> Then you don't have to worry about whether the pointer or the fence rail
> or the part of the fence that holds the pointer moved, or the plastic lens
> that holds the reticle bent, or had its refractive index change, or the
> lines of the planet's magnetic flux shifted, or whatever.
>
> The fewer links in the chain, and simpler the sequence of events the
> better, I figure. YMMV.
You worry too much. With my old saw, I'd agree. With my Delta and
Beisemeyer fence, the shortest and fewest links is to trust the fence as it
is accurate and repeatable and firmly locks to where the line is pointing on
the scale. More accurate than a shifting fence when you lock it after
measuring.
Sorry you have an inadequate tool.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> What seems error prone on a LT w/ dado is the fact that your fence is
>> referencing the right side cutting edge of a regular kerf blade. 1/8" of
>> cut is to the left of that point. Now when you stack on the dado, you
>> are widening the cut to the right of there. So your fence reference
>> point is actually 1/8" from the left side of the groove/rabbet.
>> Basically I guess the rule to remember on a LT w/ dado is the cut line
>> begins 1/8" to the left of where the fence reads.
>
> HUH? The thing to remember when using a dado set on a LT is to simply
> measure between the fence and the right most blade with a tape measure.
>
>
>
>
>>
>> With a RT, you know the fence is reading true to the right-hand side of
>> the groove. In a LT situation you have to account for the 1/8" and
>> thickness of dado.
>
> Not!
Not, as in , just use a tape measure. ;~)
"The Davenport's" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I don't have a Tee-square fence, but the one I have now is good and the
> price was right. The fact that I still measure each cut is a habit I've
> tried to get away from, but I just can't seem to do it...a little bit OCD
> about it, I guess.
>
> Mike
>
LOL, after using a tape measure with a lousy fence I had no problems not
using one when I got a good fence. :~)