I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
Thanks
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:15:36 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> > I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> > the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> > held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> > gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> > a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> > what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
> >
> > Thanks
> Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going with a permanent fix of
> cutting off the part on table, gluing to leg, using a thick dowel in
> center and reattaching to table with a wedged tenon.
>
> The table was leaning up against a wall in the garage with misc all
> around. I was unable to view it from all angles but it was about 3"
> thick, I don't think it was all solid. I told him in order for me to do
> it properly, he'll have to clean the area so I can take the table with
> me. But from what I saw, the fix I described will most likely be the
> proper method.
Hawk, have you watched the latest Thomas Johnson video on Youtube? He covers this exact thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M838pisIU1Y
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 9:48:37 AM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
> How is the leg "permanently" attached to the table top? A simple dowel o=
r tenon is likely not the method. Your dowel repair, as you describe, wil=
l likely not hold up, in a "permanently fixed" (as originally said) conditi=
on. The leg is most likely attached with a blind wedged dowel or tenon. =
I would recommend doing a similar repair, whether you use a dowel or tenon=
.
> https://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wedged-tenon-and-mortise-joint.h=
tml
>=20
On the link, scroll to the bottom of the page for a pic of the blind wedge =
joint.
Sonny
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:48:15 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:15:36 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> > On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> > > I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> > > the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> > > held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> > > gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> > > a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> > > what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going with a permanent fix of
> > cutting off the part on table, gluing to leg, using a thick dowel in
> > center and reattaching to table with a wedged tenon.
> >
> > The table was leaning up against a wall in the garage with misc all
> > around. I was unable to view it from all angles but it was about 3"
> > thick, I don't think it was all solid. I told him in order for me to do
> > it properly, he'll have to clean the area so I can take the table with
> > me. But from what I saw, the fix I described will most likely be the
> > proper method.
>
>
> Hawk, have you watched the latest Thomas Johnson video on Youtube? He covers this exact thing.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M838pisIU1Y
Great video find!
I think one of the biggest issues was the size of the previous dowel. There wasn't much wood
left after drilling that huge hole. No wonder it shattered.
One tip that I like to offer related to working with epoxy - although it probably wasn't needed
with that repair - is to keep a jar of Vaseline with your epoxy supplies. Epoxy won't stick to
Vaseline. By putting a thin layer on the surrounding areas, you can often save some sanding,
scraping, etc.
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 5:02:08 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid=
=20
> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even=20
> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply=20
> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding=
=20
> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,=
=20
> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>=20
> Thanks
Since you have those jagged edges, not all of the glue will be end grain, b=
ut you will pick up a significant amount of side grain as well. That being=
said, a lot depends on what the table is used for. If its a side table, w=
ithout a lot of stress on it, there is no reason a good glue or epoxy shou=
ld not hold. If you are worried about the strength, you could always put a=
dowel in to physically join the pieces. But, given what you have said, I =
would definitely try the glue up first.
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 3:08:21 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
> In case anyone is interesting of closer photos and to see what I've been
> indicating. It's actually a desk. It looks thick but it's hollow with a
> bottom. I sawed the top part of the broken leg as I stated. You'll see
> in photos the parts and how well they join together with barely a notice
> of the break and I didn't even push them together hard nor glue it yet.
>
> Thanks again for all te suggestions.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798043/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798093/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560392/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798213/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560607/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798453/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798553/in/dateposted-public/
As a reminder, if you sawed, then you removed wood. Not much, but probably
enough to make the desk wobble if you don't replace what you removed. Even
a thin disk glued to bottom of the leg might be enough, but I'm thinking
that you'll have to do something.
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 6:02:08 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>
> Thanks
What is "clean break"?
Is it a perfectly flat, glue ready break?
That would actually concern me. Without seeing the actually break (photo
perhaps?) I'm led to believe that it is a glue joint that previously failed.
That could mean that new glue might not hold since you might not be
gluing wood to wood,you'd actually be gluing old glue to old glue.
If that is the case, then I'd be even more inclined to add some mechanical
support such as a dowel or threaded rod. At a minimum, perhaps some keys
cut into both surfaces and then thickened epoxy that can grab onto those
keys.
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:48:15 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:15:36 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> > On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> > > I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> > > the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> > > held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> > > gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> > > a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> > > what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going with a permanent fix of
> > cutting off the part on table, gluing to leg, using a thick dowel in
> > center and reattaching to table with a wedged tenon.
> >
> > The table was leaning up against a wall in the garage with misc all
> > around. I was unable to view it from all angles but it was about 3"
> > thick, I don't think it was all solid. I told him in order for me to do
> > it properly, he'll have to clean the area so I can take the table with
> > me. But from what I saw, the fix I described will most likely be the
> > proper method.
>
>
> Hawk, have you watched the latest Thomas Johnson video on Youtube? He covers this exact thing.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M838pisIU1Y
Did anyone else notice the little fake-a-roo he pulled in that video?
Pop-quiz:
When he took the tape off of the broken leg, (3:20) he acted surprised to
find that the leg had been repaired previously. "Ah, interesting" he said.
How do we know that he was acting? What gives away the fact that he already
knew what was under the tape?
On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even held
> in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply gluing or
> epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding a rod/dowel
> in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so, what epoxy/glue
> do you recommend?
>
> Thanks
No matter how you look at it, a glue joint there will be end-grain, thus
the weakest possible no matter what sort of glue you use. If it was my
repair I'd certainly be adding some sort of reinforcement.
As an aside, if I remember the pictures you provided, the portion remaining
attached at the top was pretty thin. Is there access inside the piece to
get a drill in? If so it would (well, might) be possible to put the joint
together, drill down through the case into the top of the leg and into the
broken section making the alignment of a dowel ever so much simpler. A less
elegant solution would be to drill, glue, and insert a long deck-type screw
from inside but that might be even stronger than a dowel and would require
a smaller-diameter hole to be drilled. Just a SWAG...
--
Bodger's Dictum: Artifical intelligence
can never overcome natural stupidity.
On 2/26/2020 5:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>
> Thanks
Reinforce the repair, there is a lot of leverage to break again.
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:03:22 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> That top part left on the table is part of the leg and attached to the=20
> table. I would need to flush cut it off using my thin saw, similar to a=
=20
> Japanese saw, reattach to the leg with glue, then drill a hole in the=20
> center to add a dowel, leaving that dowel protruding from the top, drill=
=20
> a hole in the table for that dowel, then glue the entire leg back to the=
=20
> table. Thus, the glue or epoxy will still need to be strong enough to=20
> hold the leg to the table, but the dowel will provide strength mainly=20
> when someone pulls the table along the floor.
From the get go, we could not advise you as to repair or price. You needed=
to go inspect the table and give us more info.
How is the leg "permanently" attached to the table top? A simple dowel or =
tenon is likely not the method. Your dowel repair, as you describe, will =
likely not hold up, in a "permanently fixed" (as originally said) condition=
. The leg is most likely attached with a blind wedged dowel or tenon. I=
would recommend doing a similar repair, whether you use a dowel or tenon.
https://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/wedged-tenon-and-mortise-joint.htm=
l
IMO for a simple (5/8" at least) dowel extension to hopefully best/better w=
ork, it would need to extend into the table top at least 1.5"-2". Is the t=
able top that thick?
If you are not familiar with a blind wedged dowel or tenon, do some practic=
e work on some scrap. Getting the wedge length and (not too thick) width i=
s important as to getting a good fit when the dowel/tenon is jammed into th=
e its hole. Do some practicing if you're not familiar with this attaching =
technique. Might want to use a 3/4" or 1" dowel if the leg diameter accom=
modates this size without splitting.
IF you do cut off the part still attached to the table, then you will likel=
y see what size dowel or tenon was (most likely) used in the first place...=
.. and maybe be able to determine if that attachment was a wedged joint tec=
hnique.
Sonny
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:55:38 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
> On 2/26/2020 6:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 6:02:08 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
> >> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> >> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> >> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> >> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> >> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> >> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >
> > What is "clean break"?
>
> My definition of a clean break is one that didn't break in several
> pieces which would require gluing those pieces back in or filling in
> opening left from the break. It's not smooth by far but if you were a
> tiny insect or from Honey I shrunk myself, it would be a wooden
> mountainous region.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
>
>
>
> >
> > Is it a perfectly flat, glue ready break?
> >
> > That would actually concern me. Without seeing the actually break (photo
> > perhaps?) I'm led to believe that it is a glue joint that previously failed.
> > That could mean that new glue might not hold since you might not be
> > gluing wood to wood,you'd actually be gluing old glue to old glue.
> >
>
> It's not an old glue joint. The wood fibers are jagged on each side but
> I am able to line up the leg perfectly, push it towards the table and
> the tension of the fibers hold it in place and very little of the broken
> seam can be seen. If it were my table, I'd just glue it back on and be
> good with it, but I'm charging someone to fix it and I don't want to redo
>
> > If that is the case, then I'd be even more inclined to add some mechanical
> > support such as a dowel or threaded rod. At a minimum, perhaps some keys
> > cut into both surfaces and then thickened epoxy that can grab onto those
> > keys.
> >
It seems like nothing has changed from your previous thread, therefore
all the original suggestions still stand.
You *may* have enough nooks and crannies for a solid fix with just
glue/epoxy, but if you never want to go back, then any of the mechanical
supports that were suggested would ensure a permanent fix.
If it were me, and even if it were my table, I'd add the extra support.
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 1:15:36 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
> On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> > I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> > the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> > held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> > gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> > a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> > what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
> >
> > Thanks
> Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going with a permanent fix of
> cutting off the part on table, gluing to leg, using a thick dowel in
> center and reattaching to table with a wedged tenon.
>
> The table was leaning up against a wall in the garage with misc all
> around. I was unable to view it from all angles but it was about 3"
> thick, I don't think it was all solid. I told him in order for me to do
> it properly, he'll have to clean the area so I can take the table with
> me. But from what I saw, the fix I described will most likely be the
> proper method.
...and when you get it home you may very well find that there are other
parts of the table that need repair. I'd go over it very carefully
before quoting a price for repairing just the leg.
Does the table have a leaf? If so, does the sliding mechanism work? Are
the other legs tight? If any parts are veneered, is it separating any
where?
Oh yeah...don't forget to make sure it doesn't wobble and sits level
after you reattach the leg. If cutting the part of the table reduces
the overall height of the leg you'll need to account for that.
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 2:08:21 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:
> In case anyone is interesting of closer photos and to see what I've been=
=20
> indicating. It's actually a desk. It looks thick but it's hollow with a=
=20
> bottom. I sawed the top part of the broken leg as I stated. You'll see=20
> in photos the parts and how well they join together with barely a notice=
=20
> of the break and I didn't even push them together hard nor glue it yet.
>=20
> Thanks again for all te suggestions.
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798043/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798093/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560392/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798213/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560607/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798453/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798553/in/dateposted-publ=
ic/
So the leg was not a separate unit from the Lion's head aspect. That's co=
mmon. Looks like the leg was turned from ~3" stock, then fluted and the re=
mainder carved.
How will you reattach the leg? Rather than a wedged dowel or tenon, you mi=
ght consider using a (at least) 3/8" lag bolt, with 6" to 8" of thread. Cu=
t the head off the bolt, file/grind the cut end into a point and use it as =
you would a hanger bolt. About 2" or 3" of thread into the lion's head and=
2" pass the break line of the leg might do it, plus use glue or epoxy. =20
Repair the break, first (allow the glue/epoxy to dry), before drilling for =
the lag screw, if you opt for this lag bolt repair. =20
You could really crank on the leg, via the lag bolt, to tighten it really g=
ood against the lion's head.
Sonny
On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 14:13:51 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 3:08:21 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
>> In case anyone is interesting of closer photos and to see what I've been
>> indicating. It's actually a desk. It looks thick but it's hollow with a
>> bottom. I sawed the top part of the broken leg as I stated. You'll see
>> in photos the parts and how well they join together with barely a notice
>> of the break and I didn't even push them together hard nor glue it yet.
>>
>> Thanks again for all te suggestions.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798043/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798093/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560392/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798213/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560607/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798453/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798553/in/dateposted-public/
>
>As a reminder, if you sawed, then you removed wood. Not much, but probably
>enough to make the desk wobble if you don't replace what you removed. Even
>a thin disk glued to bottom of the leg might be enough, but I'm thinking
>that you'll have to do something.
Often the simplest solution is to sand a kerf width off the end of
ONE adjacent leg Yes. the table will slope a WEE bit one way - but it
will not rock. Be sure to test on a DEAD STRAIGHT surface - ie - don't
compensate for a feviation in the floor, unwittingly!!!.
On 2/26/2020 6:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 6:02:08 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
>> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
>> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
>> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
>> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
>> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
>> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>>
>> Thanks
>
> What is "clean break"?
My definition of a clean break is one that didn't break in several
pieces which would require gluing those pieces back in or filling in
opening left from the break. It's not smooth by far but if you were a
tiny insect or from Honey I shrunk myself, it would be a wooden
mountainous region.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Is it a perfectly flat, glue ready break?
>
> That would actually concern me. Without seeing the actually break (photo
> perhaps?) I'm led to believe that it is a glue joint that previously failed.
> That could mean that new glue might not hold since you might not be
> gluing wood to wood,you'd actually be gluing old glue to old glue.
>
It's not an old glue joint. The wood fibers are jagged on each side but
I am able to line up the leg perfectly, push it towards the table and
the tension of the fibers hold it in place and very little of the broken
seam can be seen. If it were my table, I'd just glue it back on and be
good with it, but I'm charging someone to fix it and I don't want to redo
> If that is the case, then I'd be even more inclined to add some mechanical
> support such as a dowel or threaded rod. At a minimum, perhaps some keys
> cut into both surfaces and then thickened epoxy that can grab onto those
> keys.
>
On 2/26/2020 7:21 PM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
>> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I
>> slid the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It
>> even held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of
>> simply gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base
>> or adding a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as
>> strong? If so, what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>>
>> Thanks
>
> No matter how you look at it, a glue joint there will be end-grain, thus
> the weakest possible no matter what sort of glue you use. If it was my
> repair I'd certainly be adding some sort of reinforcement.
>
> As an aside, if I remember the pictures you provided, the portion
> remaining attached at the top was pretty thin. Is there access inside
> the piece to get a drill in? If so it would (well, might) be possible to
> put the joint together, drill down through the case into the top of the
> leg and into the broken section making the alignment of a dowel ever so
> much simpler. A less elegant solution would be to drill, glue, and
> insert a long deck-type screw from inside but that might be even
> stronger than a dowel and would require a smaller-diameter hole to be
> drilled. Just a SWAG...
>
That top part left on the table is part of the leg and attached to the
table. I would need to flush cut it off using my thin saw, similar to a
Japanese saw, reattach to the leg with glue, then drill a hole in the
center to add a dowel, leaving that dowel protruding from the top, drill
a hole in the table for that dowel, then glue the entire leg back to the
table. Thus, the glue or epoxy will still need to be strong enough to
hold the leg to the table, but the dowel will provide strength mainly
when someone pulls the table along the floor.
On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I slid
> the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It even
> held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of simply
> gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base or adding
> a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as strong? If so,
> what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>
> Thanks
Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going with a permanent fix of
cutting off the part on table, gluing to leg, using a thick dowel in
center and reattaching to table with a wedged tenon.
The table was leaning up against a wall in the garage with misc all
around. I was unable to view it from all angles but it was about 3"
thick, I don't think it was all solid. I told him in order for me to do
it properly, he'll have to clean the area so I can take the table with
me. But from what I saw, the fix I described will most likely be the
proper method.
In case anyone is interesting of closer photos and to see what I've been
indicating. It's actually a desk. It looks thick but it's hollow with a
bottom. I sawed the top part of the broken leg as I stated. You'll see
in photos the parts and how well they join together with barely a notice
of the break and I didn't even push them together hard nor glue it yet.
Thanks again for all te suggestions.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798043/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798093/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560392/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798213/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560607/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798453/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798553/in/dateposted-public/
On 2/29/2020 5:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 3:08:21 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
>> In case anyone is interesting of closer photos and to see what I've been
>> indicating. It's actually a desk. It looks thick but it's hollow with a
>> bottom. I sawed the top part of the broken leg as I stated. You'll see
>> in photos the parts and how well they join together with barely a notice
>> of the break and I didn't even push them together hard nor glue it yet.
>>
>> Thanks again for all te suggestions.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49539807387/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798043/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798093/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560392/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798213/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49601560607/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798453/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/49600798553/in/dateposted-public/
>
> As a reminder, if you sawed, then you removed wood. Not much, but probably
> enough to make the desk wobble if you don't replace what you removed. Even
> a thin disk glued to bottom of the leg might be enough, but I'm thinking
> that you'll have to do something.
>
My hand saw is about as thick as a piece of paper. I don't think it'll
make a significant difference. But I can add a sliver of a shim if needed.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M838pisIU1Y
>
> Did anyone else notice the little fake-a-roo he pulled in that video?
>
> Pop-quiz:
>
> When he took the tape off of the broken leg, (3:20) he acted surprised to
> find that the leg had been repaired previously. "Ah, interesting" he said.
>
> How do we know that he was acting? What gives away the fact that he already
> knew what was under the tape?
10:56 - The same yellow tape.
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:03:39 -0500, Hawk <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2/26/2020 7:21 PM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 2/26/2020 6:02 PM, Hawk wrote:
>>> I had a chance to look at the table leg and it was a clean break. I
>>> slid the leg back into the base, fit right in and it looked great. It
>>> even held in place. Therefore, my question is what anyone thinks of
>>> simply gluing or epoxying the leg without trying to cut off the base
>>> or adding a rod/dowel in the center? Do you think it'll be just as
>>> strong? If so, what epoxy/glue do you recommend?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>
>> No matter how you look at it, a glue joint there will be end-grain, thus
>> the weakest possible no matter what sort of glue you use. If it was my
>> repair I'd certainly be adding some sort of reinforcement.
>>
>> As an aside, if I remember the pictures you provided, the portion
>> remaining attached at the top was pretty thin. Is there access inside
>> the piece to get a drill in? If so it would (well, might) be possible to
>> put the joint together, drill down through the case into the top of the
>> leg and into the broken section making the alignment of a dowel ever so
>> much simpler. A less elegant solution would be to drill, glue, and
>> insert a long deck-type screw from inside but that might be even
>> stronger than a dowel and would require a smaller-diameter hole to be
>> drilled. Just a SWAG...
>>
>
>That top part left on the table is part of the leg and attached to the
>table. I would need to flush cut it off using my thin saw, similar to a
>Japanese saw, reattach to the leg with glue, then drill a hole in the
>center to add a dowel, leaving that dowel protruding from the top, drill
>a hole in the table for that dowel, then glue the entire leg back to the
>table. Thus, the glue or epoxy will still need to be strong enough to
>hold the leg to the table, but the dowel will provide strength mainly
>when someone pulls the table along the floor.
What is the top of the table like? Can you glue theleg together, then
drill it from the top and install a dowel or pin from the top, then
install a matching plug and refinish it to match? Mabee add 3 more
plugs to make it look like it was made that way?