I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.
What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.
I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.
Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
"DiggerOp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>>
>>>
>> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old timey
>> stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>>
>
> Thanks.
>
> It's actually not very old timber - it's reject nonstructural pine that
> the building trade doesn't want/cannot use. Comes up periodically for
> auction to the salvage trade and general public, generally in bundled lots
> of a tonne or more. (I'm in Perth, West Oz.)
> I happened to be at an auction that the trade wasn't very interested and
> got 5 tonnes of 8"x 2"x 8' planks for $A70 a tonne.
>
> 10% is firewood, 40% has some useable sections and the balance has some
> nice sticks of wood in there. Still cheap timber. Re-saws quite nicely.
> Enough there to do the complete kitchen rebuild and storage cupboards and
> benches for the workshop and then some.
> Both still works in progress ..... for another 12 months perhaps ? : )
>
> The colouring/ageing effect is from using raw linseed oil. (May also
> contribute to hardening.) Boiled linseed would leave a much lighter
> finish, however I'm wary of the additives in boiled linseed, especially in
> food areas.
>
>
That explains it. You are on the other side of the planet! And those wood
prices are incredible! If I could get that stuff at that price, I would be
building a lot of things out of it too.
Many years ago, there was a wood source in town who had 2 X 10's and 2 X
12's out of pine for cheap. It was a one time deal. The got a good deal and
advertised it. It turns out it was lumber that was ordered by a waterbed
manufactuer that went belly up. It was high grade (for pine) lumber.
I loaded up on it aned made things out of it for years. It was relatively
light weight for its size. Easy to mill and took a good finish. I still have
a couple items made from it around here. It was simple and strong. And it
did not require any of those sissy, pretty boy joints or paint sprayers
either! :)
"DiggerOp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Empedocles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>>want
>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
>> oil,
> <snip >
>
>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>>
>
> Me too ....
>
> Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.
>
> I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
> years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces. It
> appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
> finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )
>
> For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.
>
> Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
> linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
> surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
> week.
>
> Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
> grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
> between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
> finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
> result in a really high sheen,
> although I've yet to try it.
>
> Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
> described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
> stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
> re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
> hand buff every six months.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>
>
Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old timey stuff
and is much harder than most pine available now.
Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?
Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
you are practiced.
Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
looking here.
http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm
On Nov 18, 9:17=A0pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> unpleasant odor.
>
> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
On Nov 19, 3:17 pm, "joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Empedocles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:9ee911f4-827e-4205-8fe6-136985f33276@l33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> >> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> >> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> >> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> >> wonder about using that.
>
> >> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> >> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> >> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> >> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> >> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> >> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> >> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> >> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> >> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> >> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> >> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> >> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> >> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> >> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> >> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> >> unpleasant odor.
>
> >> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>
> > Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.
>
> > I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
> > a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
> > trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
> > that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).
>
> > The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
> > manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.
>
> Which is why you never trust the seller to know anything more than the
> price.
> Probably heard of teak oil at some point and figured it must be what you
> have to use on teak furniture.
> "no harm would be done" is not the same as the doing the right thing, or
> even doing things right. As DadiOh posted, if it's got a lacquer finish
> (even a thin one), you don't want to put oil over it.
>
> Just a lot of salesman double talk.
>
> Take DadiOh's advice and don't mess with it.
>
> jc
Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
Pretty good sideline. By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
dining table runs over $3,500.
On Nov 22, 7:09 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> Empedocles wrote:
>
> > Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
> > Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
> > dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
> > lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
> > naphtha-based product.
>
> > When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
> > remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
> > After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
> > marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
>
> > Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.
>
> > David
>
> You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Thanks for correcting me. Shows how much I know. I guess the appeal of
SLG is that it has no alcohol or silicone in it. Yet, I think it's
better than just teak or tung oil & cheaper. I could be corrected.
"Empedocles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
> oil,
<snip >
> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>
Me too ....
Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.
I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces. It
appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )
For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.
Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
week.
Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
result in a really high sheen,
although I've yet to try it.
Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
hand buff every six months.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>
>>
> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>
Thanks.
It's actually not very old timber - it's reject nonstructural pine
that the building trade doesn't want/cannot use. Comes up
periodically for auction to the salvage trade and general public,
generally in bundled lots of a tonne or more. (I'm in Perth, West
Oz.)
I happened to be at an auction that the trade wasn't very interested
and got 5 tonnes of 8"x 2"x 8' planks for $A70 a tonne.
10% is firewood, 40% has some useable sections and the balance has
some nice sticks of wood in there. Still cheap timber. Re-saws quite
nicely. Enough there to do the complete kitchen rebuild and storage
cupboards and benches for the workshop and then some.
Both still works in progress ..... for another 12 months perhaps ?
: )
The colouring/ageing effect is from using raw linseed oil. (May also
contribute to hardening.) Boiled linseed would leave a much lighter
finish, however I'm wary of the additives in boiled linseed,
especially in food areas.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>> "DiggerOp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
>> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>
> He's Down Under--don't assume that _any_ wood that he talks about
> is
> like _anything_ that is readily available in the US market.
>
That's certainly true, - although somewhat ironic in the case of the
pine. It was originally a native of California, - Monterey Pine,
(Pinus Radiata.)
Brought to Oz around 1880, and NZ in the 1850's it has become
possibly the most widely grown lumber tree in the world. Huge
plantations here in Oz. Comprises 90% of NZ's plantation forests,
including the worlds largest planted forest.
The Oz/NZ timber industry claim that selective breeding over the
years has produced a superior tree for lumber when compared to the
original Californian stock.
On Nov 19, 4:31 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Empedocles wrote:
> > I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> > to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> > but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> > protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> > wonder about using that.
>
> > What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> > excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> > sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> > initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why do you
> want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely lacquer, maybe
> oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film - lacquer or other -
> all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
You make a very good point. When I said, "Well finished, ready to go,"
all I meant was that
I did not make this table, that it is a commercial product. I'm
ignorant of what manufacturers of teak furniture do as to applying a
finish. Maybe all manufacturers of wood furniture apply some kind of
protective coating to their products. You indicate that they do.
All I meant by "well finished" is that the craftsmanship is excellent.
I don't know if I have the raw wood or whether it's already treated,
as you suggest. And, your point is well taken. I don't want to mess
with it if I don't have to. Thanks. You're very helpful.
Empedocles wrote:
> On Nov 19, 4:31 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Empedocles wrote:
>>> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
>>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
>>> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
>>> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
>>> wonder about using that.
>>
>>> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
>>> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
>>> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
>>> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>>
>> If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why
>> do you want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely
>> lacquer, maybe oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film
>> - lacquer or other - all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.
>>
>
> You make a very good point. When I said, "Well finished, ready to go,"
> all I meant was that
> I did not make this table, that it is a commercial product. I'm
> ignorant of what manufacturers of teak furniture do as to applying a
> finish. Maybe all manufacturers of wood furniture apply some kind of
> protective coating to their products. You indicate that they do.
>
> All I meant by "well finished" is that the craftsmanship is excellent.
> I don't know if I have the raw wood or whether it's already treated,
> as you suggest. And, your point is well taken. I don't want to mess
> with it if I don't have to. Thanks. You're very helpful.
Spit on it. Wood change color? If not, it has a finish. 100:1 it does.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> unpleasant odor.
>
> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.
When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.
David
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:23:44 -0800 (PST), Empedocles
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
>> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
>> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
>> wonder about using that.
>>
>> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
>> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
>> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
>> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>>
>> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
>> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
>> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>>
>> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
>> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>>
>> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
>> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>>
>> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
>> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
>> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>>
>> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
>> unpleasant odor.
>>
>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>
>Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
>Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
>dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
>lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
>naphtha-based product.
>
>When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
>remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
>After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
>marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
>
>Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.
>
>David
>
>
I still suggest that for best results and no regrets, you should
contact the manufacturer. That would be very simple, easy and prevent
possible problems. I can't think of a downside to asking the person
who made the furniture, how to best care for it.
On Nov 22, 2:03 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:23:44 -0800 (PST), Empedocles
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> >> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> >> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> >> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> >> wonder about using that.
>
> >> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> >> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> >> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> >> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> >> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> >> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> >> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> >> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> >> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> >> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> >> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> >> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> >> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> >> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> >> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> >> unpleasant odor.
>
> >> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>
> >Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
> >Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
> >dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
> >lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
> >naphtha-based product.
>
> >When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
> >remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
> >After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
> >marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
>
> >Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.
>
> >David
>
> I still suggest that for best results and no regrets, you should
> contact the manufacturer. That would be very simple, easy and prevent
> possible problems. I can't think of a downside to asking the person
> who made the furniture, how to best care for it.
I'm going to try & contact the maker. But, my only contact is the
seller in Seattle (I live in MT, BTW). I think the seller is the
importer & the maker is in Thailand, so it's going to be difficult to
talk to the maker (I think). Anyway, I'll give it a shot. Thanks.
On Nov 20, 6:20 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Empedocles wrote:
> > Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
> > use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
> > Pretty good sideline.
>
> I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
> with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
> Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
> _____________________
>
> > By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
> > been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
> > Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
> > wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
> > is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
> > dining table runs over $3,500.
>
> Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil" :)
>
> Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
> years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
> which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
> exporters.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
untreated teak surface looks like. For example, my teak office
furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat, finish-
wise. (The dining table's main surface is veneer, trimmed in solid
teak blocks on the edge. The table is round.)
If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
Empedocles wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why do you
want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely lacquer, maybe
oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film - lacquer or other -
all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Nov 21, 2:05 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Empedocles wrote:
> > dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
> > untreated teak surface looks like.
>
> It looks like raw wood. I know that isn't very helpful - especially when
> you don't know what raw teak looks like - but I wasn't kidding when I told
> you to spit on it. If you prefer fastidiousness, just put a few drops of
> tap water on the table. If there is no finish, the water will soak in and
> the wood will become darker (until the water evaporates); if there is a
> finish, nothing will happen.
>
> Here are some pix. Top left is pretty good for raw, unfinished teak; top
> right is representative of teak with water, oil or varnish (with lacquer it
> would be a bit lighter).
>
> http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=raw%20teak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N...
> _____________
>
> > For example, my teak office
> > furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
> > it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat,
> > finish- wise.
>
> Any top coat finish - such as lacquer - can be made to have any sheen from
> dead flat to high gloss.
> ______________
>
> > If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
> > table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
> > it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
>
> Neither a "light coat" nor lacquer have anything to do with the sheen of a
> finish. The lack of sheen can be created by manufacturer added additives in
> the finish before it is applied or by "rubbing out" a glossy sheen after
> application of the top coats.
>
> I wouldn't worry about the finish being a "light coat" either. The
> manufacturer put on a finish that will serve for a long time. The only
> thing you might want to do is apply a paste wax (such as Johnson's) at
> infrequent intervals; maybe once a year.
>
> The Scandinavian furniture manufacturers do a wonderful job with veneer but
> under that veneer is particle board. Particle board and moisture do not
> play nice together so don't douse the table when you clean it, just use a
> slightly moist cloth...just moist enough to remove whatever needs removing
> and then dry it. Don't use any cleaner with alcohol either, lacquer doesn't
> like alcohol.
>
____________________________
On Nov 21, 2:05 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Empedocles wrote:
> > dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
> > untreated teak surface looks like.
>
> It looks like raw wood. I know that isn't very helpful - especially when
> you don't know what raw teak looks like - but I wasn't kidding when I told
> you to spit on it. If you prefer fastidiousness, just put a few drops of
> tap water on the table. If there is no finish, the water will soak in and
> the wood will become darker (until the water evaporates); if there is a
> finish, nothing will happen.
>
> Here are some pix. Top left is pretty good for raw, unfinished teak; top
> right is representative of teak with water, oil or varnish (with lacquer it
> would be a bit lighter).
>
> http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=raw%20teak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N...
> _____________
>
> > For example, my teak office
> > furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
> > it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat,
> > finish- wise.
>
> Any top coat finish - such as lacquer - can be made to have any sheen from
> dead flat to high gloss.
> ______________
>
> > If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
> > table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
> > it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
>
> Neither a "light coat" nor lacquer have anything to do with the sheen of a
> finish. The lack of sheen can be created by manufacturer added additives in
> the finish before it is applied or by "rubbing out" a glossy sheen after
> application of the top coats.
>
> I wouldn't worry about the finish being a "light coat" either. The
> manufacturer put on a finish that will serve for a long time. The only
> thing you might want to do is apply a paste wax (such as Johnson's) at
> infrequent intervals; maybe once a year.
>
> The Scandinavian furniture manufacturers do a wonderful job with veneer but
> under that veneer is particle board. Particle board and moisture do not
> play nice together so don't douse the table when you clean it, just use a
> slightly moist cloth...just moist enough to remove whatever needs removing
> and then dry it. Don't use any cleaner with alcohol either, lacquer doesn't
> like alcohol.
>
dadiOH
> ____________________________
I flicked some tap water (I'm fastidious.) on the table & it just sat
on the surface. Beaded, actually. I observed for less than a minute
before wiping it off, but I think any soaking in would have occurred
immediately. So, the table has a finish. My Merry Maids were wise in
just wiping the table with a damp cloth.
Why do you recommend Johnson's wax? My seller warned me not to use a
Pledge-type polish. Am I confusing things, here? Do Pledge-type
polishes have alcohol & Johnson's wax doesn't?
Thank you very much for your patience, time, and expertise. You have
helped me & hopefully others. I'm going to return that tung oil when I
get it & get my $40 back. Well, minus the return shipping charges.
Lesson learned.
If you care, here's my table & chairs:
http://www.scan-design.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=702
I don't know if you care to comment, but my entertainment center is
also teak veneer, but when I compare it with the doors in my apt., I
see little difference between it & them. I'm guessing the doors are
mahogany veneer. I haven't analyzed the grain structure, however. Do
teak & mahogany have similar appearances? I'm guessing teak is
superior for furniture.
David
On Nov 18, 11:23 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?
>
> Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
> a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
> want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
> film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
> you are practiced.
>
> Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
> finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
> suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
> spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
> day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
> looking here.
>
> http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm
>
> On Nov 18, 9:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> > to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> > but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> > protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> > wonder about using that.
>
> > What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> > excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> > sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> > initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> > Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> > experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> > local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> > Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> > Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> > Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> > Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> > I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> > but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> > problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> > I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> > unpleasant odor.
>
> > Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
The dining table is indoors.
On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> unpleasant odor.
>
> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.
I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).
The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.
Empedocles wrote:
>
> Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
> Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
> dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
> lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
> naphtha-based product.
>
> When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
> remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
> After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
> marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
>
> Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.
>
> David
You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Empedocles wrote:
> dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
> untreated teak surface looks like.
It looks like raw wood. I know that isn't very helpful - especially when
you don't know what raw teak looks like - but I wasn't kidding when I told
you to spit on it. If you prefer fastidiousness, just put a few drops of
tap water on the table. If there is no finish, the water will soak in and
the wood will become darker (until the water evaporates); if there is a
finish, nothing will happen.
Here are some pix. Top left is pretty good for raw, unfinished teak; top
right is representative of teak with water, oil or varnish (with lacquer it
would be a bit lighter).
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=raw%20teak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
_____________
> For example, my teak office
> furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
> it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat,
> finish- wise.
Any top coat finish - such as lacquer - can be made to have any sheen from
dead flat to high gloss.
______________
> If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
> table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
> it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
Neither a "light coat" nor lacquer have anything to do with the sheen of a
finish. The lack of sheen can be created by manufacturer added additives in
the finish before it is applied or by "rubbing out" a glossy sheen after
application of the top coats.
I wouldn't worry about the finish being a "light coat" either. The
manufacturer put on a finish that will serve for a long time. The only
thing you might want to do is apply a paste wax (such as Johnson's) at
infrequent intervals; maybe once a year.
The Scandinavian furniture manufacturers do a wonderful job with veneer but
under that veneer is particle board. Particle board and moisture do not
play nice together so don't douse the table when you clean it, just use a
slightly moist cloth...just moist enough to remove whatever needs removing
and then dry it. Don't use any cleaner with alcohol either, lacquer doesn't
like alcohol.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Teak is used on battle ship decks and another place like that -
the boardwalk at Atlanta City.
Normally it isn't coated. It has oils within. It will gray out on the
outside. The oil keeps fungus and bugs from eating it.
Martin
Empedocles wrote:
> On Nov 21, 2:05 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Empedocles wrote:
>>> dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
>>> untreated teak surface looks like.
>> It looks like raw wood. I know that isn't very helpful - especially when
>> you don't know what raw teak looks like - but I wasn't kidding when I told
>> you to spit on it. If you prefer fastidiousness, just put a few drops of
>> tap water on the table. If there is no finish, the water will soak in and
>> the wood will become darker (until the water evaporates); if there is a
>> finish, nothing will happen.
>>
>> Here are some pix. Top left is pretty good for raw, unfinished teak; top
>> right is representative of teak with water, oil or varnish (with lacquer it
>> would be a bit lighter).
>>
>> http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=raw%20teak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N...
>> _____________
>>
>>> For example, my teak office
>>> furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
>>> it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat,
>>> finish- wise.
>> Any top coat finish - such as lacquer - can be made to have any sheen from
>> dead flat to high gloss.
>> ______________
>>
>>> If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
>>> table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
>>> it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
>> Neither a "light coat" nor lacquer have anything to do with the sheen of a
>> finish. The lack of sheen can be created by manufacturer added additives in
>> the finish before it is applied or by "rubbing out" a glossy sheen after
>> application of the top coats.
>>
>> I wouldn't worry about the finish being a "light coat" either. The
>> manufacturer put on a finish that will serve for a long time. The only
>> thing you might want to do is apply a paste wax (such as Johnson's) at
>> infrequent intervals; maybe once a year.
>>
>> The Scandinavian furniture manufacturers do a wonderful job with veneer but
>> under that veneer is particle board. Particle board and moisture do not
>> play nice together so don't douse the table when you clean it, just use a
>> slightly moist cloth...just moist enough to remove whatever needs removing
>> and then dry it. Don't use any cleaner with alcohol either, lacquer doesn't
>> like alcohol.
>>
> ____________________________
>
> On Nov 21, 2:05 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Empedocles wrote:
>>> dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
>>> untreated teak surface looks like.
>> It looks like raw wood. I know that isn't very helpful - especially when
>> you don't know what raw teak looks like - but I wasn't kidding when I told
>> you to spit on it. If you prefer fastidiousness, just put a few drops of
>> tap water on the table. If there is no finish, the water will soak in and
>> the wood will become darker (until the water evaporates); if there is a
>> finish, nothing will happen.
>>
>> Here are some pix. Top left is pretty good for raw, unfinished teak; top
>> right is representative of teak with water, oil or varnish (with lacquer it
>> would be a bit lighter).
>>
>> http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=raw%20teak&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N...
>> _____________
>>
>>> For example, my teak office
>>> furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
>>> it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat,
>>> finish- wise.
>> Any top coat finish - such as lacquer - can be made to have any sheen from
>> dead flat to high gloss.
>> ______________
>>
>>> If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
>>> table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
>>> it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
>> Neither a "light coat" nor lacquer have anything to do with the sheen of a
>> finish. The lack of sheen can be created by manufacturer added additives in
>> the finish before it is applied or by "rubbing out" a glossy sheen after
>> application of the top coats.
>>
>> I wouldn't worry about the finish being a "light coat" either. The
>> manufacturer put on a finish that will serve for a long time. The only
>> thing you might want to do is apply a paste wax (such as Johnson's) at
>> infrequent intervals; maybe once a year.
>>
>> The Scandinavian furniture manufacturers do a wonderful job with veneer but
>> under that veneer is particle board. Particle board and moisture do not
>> play nice together so don't douse the table when you clean it, just use a
>> slightly moist cloth...just moist enough to remove whatever needs removing
>> and then dry it. Don't use any cleaner with alcohol either, lacquer doesn't
>> like alcohol.
>>
> dadiOH
>> ____________________________
>
> I flicked some tap water (I'm fastidious.) on the table & it just sat
> on the surface. Beaded, actually. I observed for less than a minute
> before wiping it off, but I think any soaking in would have occurred
> immediately. So, the table has a finish. My Merry Maids were wise in
> just wiping the table with a damp cloth.
>
> Why do you recommend Johnson's wax? My seller warned me not to use a
> Pledge-type polish. Am I confusing things, here? Do Pledge-type
> polishes have alcohol & Johnson's wax doesn't?
>
> Thank you very much for your patience, time, and expertise. You have
> helped me & hopefully others. I'm going to return that tung oil when I
> get it & get my $40 back. Well, minus the return shipping charges.
> Lesson learned.
>
> If you care, here's my table & chairs:
> http://www.scan-design.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=702
>
> I don't know if you care to comment, but my entertainment center is
> also teak veneer, but when I compare it with the doors in my apt., I
> see little difference between it & them. I'm guessing the doors are
> mahogany veneer. I haven't analyzed the grain structure, however. Do
> teak & mahogany have similar appearances? I'm guessing teak is
> superior for furniture.
>
> David
>
>
>
>
"Empedocles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9ee911f4-827e-4205-8fe6-136985f33276@l33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
>> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
>> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
>> wonder about using that.
>>
>> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
>> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
>> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
>> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>>
>> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
>> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
>> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>>
>> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
>> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>>
>> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
>> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>>
>> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
>> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
>> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>>
>> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
>> unpleasant odor.
>>
>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>
> Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.
>
> I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
> a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
> trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
> that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).
>
> The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
> manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.
Which is why you never trust the seller to know anything more than the
price.
Probably heard of teak oil at some point and figured it must be what you
have to use on teak furniture.
"no harm would be done" is not the same as the doing the right thing, or
even doing things right. As DadiOh posted, if it's got a lacquer finish
(even a thin one), you don't want to put oil over it.
Just a lot of salesman double talk.
Take DadiOh's advice and don't mess with it.
jc
Empedocles wrote:
> Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
> use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
> Pretty good sideline.
I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
_____________________
> By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
> been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
> Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
> wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
> is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
> dining table runs over $3,500.
Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil" :)
Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
exporters.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Nov 22, 7:53 pm, "Martin H. Eastburn" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Teak is used on battle ship decks and another place like that -
> the boardwalk at Atlanta City.
>
> Normally it isn't coated. It has oils within. It will gray out on the
> outside. The oil keeps fungus and bugs from eating it.
>
> Martin
dadiOH made a very good point: Grayed teak makes for good traction on
a boat. I vaguely knew of teak until I owned my 1st sailboat. After I
sold it, I wanted to have teak furniture, just for old times' sake.
The 2d sailboat I owned, I became concerned re: condition of the
topside teak (brightwork), but sold it before doing anything about it.
The thing is, topside decks, handrails, etc., need to be rough, rather
than smooth. That nice-looking handrail in port actually is dangerous
in rough weather at sea. I suppose it would be good to "recondition"
the teak when you want to sell the boat.
Manufacturers of wood maintenance products make a mint off of people
owning boats & outdoor teak furniture, spending time, work, & money
trying to keep that "natural" look. I might buy another sailboat & if
I do, I'll let the topside teak gray out.
On Nov 21, 10:24 am, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 09:18:02 -0800 (PST), Empedocles
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Nov 20, 6:20 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Empedocles wrote:
> >> > Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
> >> > use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
> >> > Pretty good sideline.
>
> >> I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
> >> with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
> >> Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
> >> _____________________
>
> >> > By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
> >> > been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
> >> > Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
> >> > wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
> >> > is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
> >> > dining table runs over $3,500.
>
> >> Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil" :)
>
> >> Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
> >> years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
> >> which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
> >> exporters.
>
> >> --
>
> >> dadiOH
> >> ____________________________
>
> >> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> >> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> >> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> >> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
> >dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
> >untreated teak surface looks like. For example, my teak office
> >furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
> >it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat, finish-
> >wise. (The dining table's main surface is veneer, trimmed in solid
> >teak blocks on the edge. The table is round.)
>
> >If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
> >table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
> >it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
>
> I seriously doubt it is completely unfinished unless it was purchased
> specifically labeled as "Unfinished furniture". I don't think anyone
> can offer you anything more intelligent and helpful at this point than
> to suggest you find a way to contact the manufacturer directly. There
> should be a label or makers mark on the underside somewhere, or
> failing that, get manufacturer's contact info from the retailer.
Your point is well taken. The seller has had three stores in the
Seattle area for a long time, and I'm sure if the table were
unfinished, they'd have told me so. Thanks for sharing this with me.
Lee Michaels wrote:
> "DiggerOp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Empedocles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>>> want
>>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
>>> oil,
>> <snip >
>>
>>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>>>
>>
>> Me too ....
>>
>> Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.
>>
>> I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
>> years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces.
>> It
>> appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
>> finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )
>>
>> For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.
>>
>> Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
>> linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
>> surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
>> week.
>>
>> Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
>> grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
>> between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
>> finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
>> result in a really high sheen,
>> although I've yet to try it.
>>
>> Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
>> described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
>> stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
>> re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
>> hand buff every six months.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>
>>
> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
He's Down Under--don't assume that _any_ wood that he talks about is
like _anything_ that is readily available in the US market.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Empedocles wrote:
> On Nov 22, 7:53 pm, "Martin H. Eastburn"
> <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> Teak is used on battle ship decks and another place like that -
>> the boardwalk at Atlanta City.
>>
>> Normally it isn't coated. It has oils within. It will gray out on
>> the outside. The oil keeps fungus and bugs from eating it.
>>
>> Martin
>
> dadiOH made a very good point: Grayed teak makes for good traction
> on
> a boat. I vaguely knew of teak until I owned my 1st sailboat. After
> I
> sold it, I wanted to have teak furniture, just for old times' sake.
> The 2d sailboat I owned, I became concerned re: condition of the
> topside teak (brightwork), but sold it before doing anything about
> it.
>
> The thing is, topside decks, handrails, etc., need to be rough,
> rather
> than smooth. That nice-looking handrail in port actually is
> dangerous
> in rough weather at sea. I suppose it would be good to "recondition"
> the teak when you want to sell the boat.
>
> Manufacturers of wood maintenance products make a mint off of people
> owning boats & outdoor teak furniture, spending time, work, & money
> trying to keep that "natural" look. I might buy another sailboat &
> if
> I do, I'll let the topside teak gray out.
Keep an eye on it. You want it a little bit rough, you don't want it
so rough that you're getting splinters from it regularly (teak
splinters tend to go septic--if you really want to let it go that far
use white oak), and if you don't take at least a _little_ bit of care
of it it will get there fairly quickly.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Empedocles wrote:
> Why do you recommend Johnson's wax? My seller warned me not to use a
> Pledge-type polish. Am I confusing things, here? Do Pledge-type
> polishes have alcohol & Johnson's wax doesn't?
I suggested paste wax such as Johnsons because it is good; also because it
takes considerable time and effort to apply which generally means people
won't use it frequently. OTOH, Pledge is dead simple to use. My wife used
to use it everytime she dusted; admittedly, it wasn't all that often but it
was often enough to build up a layer of wax that functioned much like the La
Brea tar pits. I used almost a quart of naptha getting it off a buffet.
_______________
> If you care, here's my table & chairs:
http://www.scan-design.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=702
Very handsome. The black "keys" set it off nicely.
_______________
> I don't know if you care to comment, but my entertainment center is
> also teak veneer, but when I compare it with the doors in my apt., I
> see little difference between it & them. I'm guessing the doors are
> mahogany veneer. I haven't analyzed the grain structure, however. Do
> teak & mahogany have similar appearances?
No, not at all. However, lots of woods have similar color when finished and
most people react to that rather than the pattern and structure of the
wood's grain. This is what true mahogany looks like...
http://www.woodfinder.com/woods/cuban_mahogany.php
Since you live on the West Coast, it is most probable that your doors have
been skinned with rotary cut Philippine mahogany. If you lived in the
eastern US the likely skin material would be birch. "Philippine mahogany"
is neither a true mahogany nor a single species...there are seven species
marketed under that name and there is considerable variation in appearance.
_________________
> I'm guessing teak is superior for furniture.
Don't tell Sheraton, Chippendale, Phyfe at al that :) The wood that so
enamoured them was Cuban mahogany (Swietana mahagani) and that has been
pretty much gone from its original habitat for a long time; fortunately, the
Spanish established it in the Pacific a couple of hundred years ago so it is
still avalilable albeit at a hefty price.
Like Philippine mahogany, there are several species of New World mahogany.
Honduras mahogany (S. macrophylla) being the one generally referred to
nowadays as "true mahogany". There is also one from Africa which closely
resembles them but is a different genus.
Both teak and the New World mahoganies are wonderful woods (Khaya - African
mahogany - is nice too). Both are reasonably hard and strong and work well;
both weather well and are resistant to rot. Where teak really shines is on
boat decks and that is because as it weathers to a silvery grey it also
develops a roughness that provides welcome traction.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 09:18:02 -0800 (PST), Empedocles
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Nov 20, 6:20 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Empedocles wrote:
>> > Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
>> > use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
>> > Pretty good sideline.
>>
>> I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
>> with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
>> Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
>> _____________________
>>
>> > By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
>> > been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
>> > Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
>> > wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
>> > is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
>> > dining table runs over $3,500.
>>
>> Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil" :)
>>
>> Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
>> years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
>> which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
>> exporters.
>>
>> --
>>
>> dadiOH
>> ____________________________
>>
>> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
>> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
>> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
>> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment re: what an
>untreated teak surface looks like. For example, my teak office
>furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
>it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat, finish-
>wise. (The dining table's main surface is veneer, trimmed in solid
>teak blocks on the edge. The table is round.)
>
>If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
>table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
>it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?
I seriously doubt it is completely unfinished unless it was purchased
specifically labeled as "Unfinished furniture". I don't think anyone
can offer you anything more intelligent and helpful at this point than
to suggest you find a way to contact the manufacturer directly. There
should be a label or makers mark on the underside somewhere, or
failing that, get manufacturer's contact info from the retailer.
Empedocles wrote:
> On Nov 22, 7:09 pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Empedocles wrote:
>>
>>> Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
>>> Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
>>> dadiOH told me re: Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
>>> lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
>>> naphtha-based product.
>>
>>> When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
>>> remembered something re: silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
>>> After dadiOH's information re: tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
>>> marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.
>>
>>> Unless someone warns me re: SLG, I think that's what I'm going to
>>> use.
>>
>>> David
>>
>> You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.
>>
>> --
>> Jack Novak
>> Buffalo, NY - USA
>> [email protected]
>
> Thanks for correcting me. Shows how much I know. I guess the appeal of
> SLG is that it has no alcohol or silicone in it. Yet, I think it's
> better than just teak or tung oil & cheaper. I could be corrected.
I have no idea what it is but you need nothing - repeat, nothing - on the
table as it is already finished.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico