I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2" pine.
The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the pieces
come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece is
going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy some
3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
Larry
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54...
> > I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
> pine.
> > The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use
contact
> > cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
> pieces
> There are safer contact cements available today that are non flammable.
If
> your concern is about unforgiving contact, cut the top piece an inch
> oversized on all sides and don't worry about alignment. Use a router with
a
> flush trim bit to make the top match the bottom piece.
Thanks, Leon. That's what I'll do.
Larry
"Gary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'm wondering about the stability of your completed sandwich. At
> first, I thought you were talking about 1/2 inch pine PLY, but with
> the breadboard ends, began to think you meant 1/2 inch SOLID WOOD. I'm
> relatively new at this, but won't the pine expand/contract across the
> grain, while the oak ply will not? Wouldn't this either warp or self
> destruct? Then again, if it is 1/2 inch pine ply, why the breadboard
> ends?
>
> Just curious.
The plywood has a veneer of oak. I planned down the original desk top(solid
pine) to half inch and glued the plywood to it. I wondered about the
stability too but if the sucker warps and turns into a wood potato chip I'll
rebuild it. If it's going to misbehave(I'll keep checking on it when I
visit), it will probably do so in a year or two and I will just rebuild with
a piece of 3/4" oak plywood and redo the edge. The breadboard ends will
help control the warping and I just like bb ends on the tables I make. FWIW
the top is sitting right now for another 2 days like it said to do on the
can. I'm making molding for around the bottom of the desk at the moment.
Made the molding 7/8 " thick yesterday but it looked too clunky so I redid
it with thinner stock. Here it is just dry fitted. See @
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/hopedesk4big.jpg
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/hopedesk5big.jpg
Larry
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
>
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2" pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
I think you are wrong to avoid contact cement. 2 x 3 feet is so small
you should have little trouble aligning it. If you do have trouble
your technique is incorrect.
Nonetheless, an excellent alternative is Weldwood (or any other brand)
Plastic Resin glue. Mixed correctly this glue is thin but doesn't do
any gap filling (ideal for bonding two smooth surfaces). I used
Weldwood Plastic resin to glue two pieces of 1/2 fir plywood together
for a Radial saw table (about 4 x 2 feet) and it is still working
fine 30 years later.
Thu, Jul 8, 2004, 8:21pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Lawrence=A0L'Hote)
claims:
<snip> With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh the top
piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags.<snip>
I never did see a response to why not regular woodworking glue.
I'd use it, and probably nail the sucker down.
However, if you've got a nice large, flat piece of steel, that
would work great, with a car or truck to hold it down. Or probably some
heavy plywood would work in place of the steel. I heard of a guy who
used to make his own plywood that way, huge steel plate, and park his
pickup on it.
Making a success of the job at hand is the best step toward the kind you
want.
- Bernard M. Baruch
More likely, your boss gets a raise and/or promotion, from getting
credit for your work.
- JOAT
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54...
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
pieces
> come in contact.
Thanks for all the help. When I checked at the home store for contact
cement the non-solvent stuff was almost twice as expensive as the solvent
kind. I bought the solvent based and a small roller. I cut the piece of
plywood about l in. larger than the substrate. Out on the deck, I applied
about 3 coats of the cement on both pieces, following the instructions on
the can and waited a half hour until tacky. No problem with attaching the
pieces. Rolled and pounded the pieces together my 10 lb plastic coated
dumb-bell weight. It's sitting out on the screened porch until I get a
Downshear Flush Trim bit from routerbits.com. Will post the links to
pictures of completed desk in a couple of weeks or so.
Larry
> Thanks for all the help. When I checked at the home store for contact
> cement the non-solvent stuff was almost twice as expensive as the solvent
> kind. I bought the solvent based and a small roller. I cut the piece of
> plywood about l in. larger than the substrate. Out on the deck, I applied
> about 3 coats of the cement on both pieces, following the instructions on
> the can and waited a half hour until tacky. No problem with attaching the
> pieces. Rolled and pounded the pieces together my 10 lb plastic coated
> dumb-bell weight. It's sitting out on the screened porch until I get a
> Downshear Flush Trim bit from routerbits.com. Will post the links to
> pictures of completed desk in a couple of weeks or so.
>
> Larry
I'm wondering about the stability of your completed sandwich. At
first, I thought you were talking about 1/2 inch pine PLY, but with
the breadboard ends, began to think you meant 1/2 inch SOLID WOOD. I'm
relatively new at this, but won't the pine expand/contract across the
grain, while the oak ply will not? Wouldn't this either warp or self
destruct? Then again, if it is 1/2 inch pine ply, why the breadboard
ends?
Just curious.
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
> pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
> pieces come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to
> weigh the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The
> piece is going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and
> breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy
> some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
You might want to try plastic resin glue or resorcinol.
Brian
--
Visit www.spaltedboard.com for free woodworking software and forums!
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54...
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece
is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy
some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
>
what's wrong with using normal wood glue?
In article <P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54>, "Lawrence L'Hote"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Just about any glue is unforgiving. However some will give you a little
working time. As you like to use available materials, just use whatever
glue you already have. Any glue will have enough strength.
You can limit the slipping if you drive a couple small brads through
from the back side. Let them protrude about 1/8". As you lower the top
piece for glueing the brads will limit any slipping. Also, your final
dimensions do not seem to be exactly limited so you whould plan on
cutting to final dimension after the glue is cured. That way minor
slipping will be of no consequence.
Dick
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
> pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use
> contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
> pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece
> is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy
> some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use
> used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
>
>
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54...
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece
is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy
some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
There are safer contact cements available today that are non flammable. If
your concern is about unforgiving contact, cut the top piece an inch
oversized on all sides and don't worry about alignment. Use a router with a
flush trim bit to make the top match the bottom piece.
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2" pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
>
>
there are water based contact cements available.
dave
Somebody wrote:
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece
is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends.
SikaFlex 291 spread with a notched trowel will do a very nice job.
Keep it weighted down for a couple of days.
Lew
On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 10:44:05 GMT, "Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>
>"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:P0iHc.31111$JR4.672@attbi_s54...
>> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
>pine.
>> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
>> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
>pieces
>> come in contact.
>
>Thanks for all the help. When I checked at the home store for contact
>cement the non-solvent stuff was almost twice as expensive as the solvent
I reckon that's why the waterborne crap works half as well.
--------------------------------------------
-- I'm in touch with my Inner Curmudgeon. --
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
============================================================
> Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
> >
> > I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2"
pine.
> > The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use
contact
> > cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the
pieces
> > come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to
weigh
> > the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The
piece is
> > going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and
breadboard
> > ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy
some
> > 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use
used
> > materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
> >
> > Larry
>
Why not assemble it upside down, get the alignment right with any reasonable
working-time glue you like and then "clamp" it together with screws that
don't go all the way through the "top".
Norm
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 20:21:03 GMT, "Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2" pine.
>The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
>cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the pieces
>come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
>the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece is
>going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
>ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy some
>3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
>materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
>Larry
>
spreading the clamping pressure out is a good thing. sandbags are
better than an anvil, more sandbags is better than less sandbags, and
spread them out. both your 1/2" substrate and the 1/4" ply will want
to flex under clamping pressure, so this layup should probably be done
on a nice flat and solid surface. I think I'd be inclined to do it
upside down (oak face down) and let the ply hang proud of the
substrate a bit and trim afterward.
Why not use hide glue? Very forgiving and lots of open time. BTW - the
two boards are going to move differently, so leave yourself some way of
accommodating the movement ...
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
> I'm planning on gluing a piece of 1/4" oak ply to a substrate of 1/2" pine.
> The size of the piece is about 2 ft. x 3 ft. I'm reluctant to use contact
> cement because of its solvent base and unforgiving character once the pieces
> come in contact. With no vacuum press available, I will just try to weigh
> the top piece down with a heavy anvil(or two) or some sandbags. The piece is
> going to be the field of a desktop with a solid oak border and breadboard
> ends. Any experiences with a similiar arrangement? "Why not just buy some
> 3/4 oak ply and be done with it?" you might ask. I could, but I use used
> materials whenever possible with my projects and that's what I have.
>
> Larry
>
>