I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
the second one broke.
My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
Thanks for any and all help.
"Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>>> the second one broke.
>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>
>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
>
> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out with
> the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
>
> --
> Gerald Ross
>
> Nine out of ten men who try camels
> prefer women.
>
> Easiest approach is to make the "mini -hole saw" from a short lenght of
> appropriate sized metal tubing. Notch one end with a small file (numerous
> times) to resemble a saw blade! Insert that into your drill and drill
> around the broken screw.
Then procede as Gerald stated
Bill H.
>
>
>
>
It's under a hinge and the damage is not visible. Any technique that
works...use it.
------------
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
If he misses a little, it's only wood. I bet the screw comes out!
We always joked that by the time you get to an "Easy Out", the problem
is totally out of the "easy" category. : )
The good thing is that the water pump on a '69 Buick will stay on, and
not leak, using only about half of it's 13 bolts! DAMHIKT! : )
On Feb 17, 12:01=A0pm, trvlnmny <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> the second one broke.
> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> Thanks for any and all help.
Heat the stub with a soldering iron; a drop of solder
helps heat transfer. Plug and redrill. The hinge plate
will cover the repair.
Gerald Ross wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>>> the second one broke.
>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>
>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
>
> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out
> with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
>
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZ3AA/ref=asc_df_B001DSZ3AA1901476/?tag=smartercom-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B001DSZ3AA&linkCode=asn
This one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.
--
Gerald Ross
Nine out of ten men who try camels
prefer women.
On Feb 17, 1:34=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use
> end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
> Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.
>
> Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that
> fits into each other. Then make your own.
> ABout $2...
>
> On 2/17/2012 1:25 PM, William F. Adams ([email protected]) wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 17, 12:33 pm, Gerald Ross<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> Gerald Ross wrote:
> >>> Bill wrote:
> >>>> =A0 On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
> >>>>> =A0 =A0I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> >>>>> =A0 =A0The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> >>>>> =A0 =A0When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> >>>>> =A0 =A0When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass o=
nes
> >>>>> =A0 =A0the second one broke.
> >>>>> =A0 =A0My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw=
?
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Thanks for any and all help.
>
> >>>> =A0 Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See=
below
>
> >>>> =A0http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>
> >>>> =A0 My success with them has been mixed. =A0I've never tried one on =
a brass
> >>>> =A0 screw, but it seems like it should work. =A0HTH, Bill
> >>> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AF=
AIK.
>
> >>> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. =A0You cut a plug out
> >>> with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from t=
here.
>
> >>http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZ3AA/ref=3Dasc_df_B001DSZ3AA1901476/?tag=
...
>
> >> This one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.
>
> > I used the 1/4" version when I had a similar problem recently (though
> > my problem was the defective steel screws).
>
> > Worked quite nicely, though I'm still a bit worried about having 3 of
> > the screws going into end grain where I plugged the holes w/ dowels
> > --- wouldn't be as worried 'cept that 2 of the holes are under 1 hinge
> > half, leaving only 1 good screw for that part...
*I* like that approach.
On 02/17/2012 10:32 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
> If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club
> cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.
>
> Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.
>
> Drill around the screw, take a screw driver and pry the plug out.
> Replace the plug... btw if you use a golf club you can make a larger
> tube for the replacement plug if you don't have plug cutters.
I have a new 2 iron that deserves to be of some use!
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On 02/17/2012 01:32 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Yes, but it must be straight, and by the sounds of it, you really don't
> like your two iron. I hope you didn't bend it around a tree 8>)
>
> On 2/17/2012 3:05 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> On 02/17/2012 10:32 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club
>>> cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.
>>>
>>> Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.
>>>
>>> Drill around the screw, take a screw driver and pry the plug out.
>>> Replace the plug... btw if you use a golf club you can make a larger
>>> tube for the replacement plug if you don't have plug cutters.
>>
>> I have a new 2 iron that deserves to be of some use!
>>
>>
>>
No, no trees or drowning. When they misbehave, they go in the closet.
Some have been there for quite some time. The closet is getting fairly
full - especially putters...
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote in news:4f3f170b$0$2226
[email protected]:
>
> No, no trees or drowning. When they misbehave, they go in the closet.
> Some have been there for quite some time. The closet is getting fairly
> full - especially putters...
>
Wooden hockey sticks around here sometimes get turned into project wood.
(They often break near the blade.) Maybe you could invest in a welder and
do something useful with the putters. *g*
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Yes, but it must be straight, and by the sounds of it, you really don't
like your two iron. I hope you didn't bend it around a tree 8>)
On 2/17/2012 3:05 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 02/17/2012 10:32 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club
>> cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.
>>
>> Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.
>>
>> Drill around the screw, take a screw driver and pry the plug out.
>> Replace the plug... btw if you use a golf club you can make a larger
>> tube for the replacement plug if you don't have plug cutters.
>
> I have a new 2 iron that deserves to be of some use!
>
>
>
On Feb 17, 12:33=A0pm, Gerald Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gerald Ross wrote:
> > Bill wrote:
> >> =A0On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
> >>> =A0 I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> >>> =A0 The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> >>> =A0 When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> >>> =A0 When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> >>> =A0 the second one broke.
> >>> =A0 My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> >>> =A0 Thanks for any and all help.
>
> >> =A0Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See be=
low
>
> >> =A0http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>
> >> =A0My success with them has been mixed. =A0I've never tried one on a b=
rass
> >> =A0screw, but it seems like it should work. =A0HTH, Bill
> > EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAI=
K.
>
> > Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. =A0You cut a plug out
> > with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from the=
re.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZ3AA/ref=3Dasc_df_B001DSZ3AA1901476/?tag..=
.
>
> This one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.
I used the 1/4" version when I had a similar problem recently (though
my problem was the defective steel screws).
Worked quite nicely, though I'm still a bit worried about having 3 of
the screws going into end grain where I plugged the holes w/ dowels
--- wouldn't be as worried 'cept that 2 of the holes are under 1 hinge
half, leaving only 1 good screw for that part...
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:01:37 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>the second one broke.
I'm guessing that it's the brass screw which broke on the way in. If
there's ny shank sticking out, try using a pair of needle nose vise
grips to unscrew it. If not, use a 1/4 or 5/16" hollow drill to remove
the screw piece and surrounding wood, then glue in a piece of 1/4" or
5/16" dowel. Allow to dry, cut flush, and redrill the pilot hole.
>My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>Thanks for any and all help.
First, always use the proper pilot drill bit to prepare the hole.
Second, use wax or screw lube any time a brass screw is used. That
includes waxing the steel screw prior to inserting the waxed brass
one.
--
The ultimate result of shielding men from folly
is to fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer
On Feb 17, 9:01=A0am, trvlnmny <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> the second one broke.
> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> Thanks for any and all help.
We are talking wood and a tiny little #4. I think you need to drill
tiny holes all around it and dig it out, then drill out a clean 1/4"
or 3/8"hole and pound in a dowel and shavv it clean with a sharp
chisel. Tip: to drill a hole in an exact location with an existing
raggedy hole nearby, lay a small piece of wood over the site, clamped
in-place and drill through that.
Bill wrote:
> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>> the second one broke.
>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>> Thanks for any and all help.
>
>
> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>
> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>
> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
Only if he can get a hole drilled down through the broken screw shaft - that
might be tricky.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> On Feb 17, 1:34 pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
>> If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to
>> use end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
>> Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make
>> sense.
>>
>> Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing
>> that fits into each other. Then make your own.
>> ABout $2...
>
> I actually bought a plug cutter at the same time, but was too
> impatient to use it.
>
> Neat idea 'bout the nesting tubing --- how do you get the plugs out of
> the larger size?
By pushing a piece of the next smaller size tubing through.
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:01:37 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>the second one broke.
>My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>Thanks for any and all help.
Been there, drank that, er.... done that.
Use other's suggestion for getting it out and plugging the hole with a
dowell. If it's only a No. 4 screw, I think you can get away with
re-drilling into the end grain. Just use a real hardwood dowell and
drill pilot holes.
-Zz
trvlnmny wrote:
> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> the second one broke.
> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> Thanks for any and all help.
Can't you continue to remove the remaining screws (or break them...), and
then remove the hinge plate so that you can get on the broken screw shaft
with a pair of pliers or vice grips?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Feb 17, 1:34=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use
> end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
> Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.
>
> Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that
> fits into each other. Then make your own.
> ABout $2...
I actually bought a plug cutter at the same time, but was too
impatient to use it.
Neat idea 'bout the nesting tubing --- how do you get the plugs out of
the larger size?
If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club
cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.
Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.
Drill around the screw, take a screw driver and pry the plug out.
Replace the plug... btw if you use a golf club you can make a larger
tube for the replacement plug if you don't have plug cutters.
Next time put candle wax on your steel screw.
Then a little more on your brass screw.
It makes the world of difference.
On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> the second one broke.
> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> Thanks for any and all help.
If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use
end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.
Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that
fits into each other. Then make your own.
ABout $2...
On 2/17/2012 1:25 PM, William F. Adams ([email protected]) wrote:
> On Feb 17, 12:33 pm, Gerald Ross<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Gerald Ross wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>>>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>>>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>>>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>>>>> the second one broke.
>>>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>>>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>>>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>>>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>>>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
>>> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
>>
>>> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out
>>> with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZ3AA/ref=asc_df_B001DSZ3AA1901476/?tag...
>>
>> This one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.
>
> I used the 1/4" version when I had a similar problem recently (though
> my problem was the defective steel screws).
>
> Worked quite nicely, though I'm still a bit worried about having 3 of
> the screws going into end grain where I plugged the holes w/ dowels
> --- wouldn't be as worried 'cept that 2 of the holes are under 1 hinge
> half, leaving only 1 good screw for that part...
You put teeth in the tubes and just cut holes.
Make sure you file the tube a little on the inside to remove andy burs
on the inside before cutting teeth.
Then chuck them in the drill or drill press and cut.
Then band saw the plugs out. simple. you can also strengthen the tubes
where they chuck by putting a larger tube over the smaller, cutting it
to size for the chuck, and soldering it so it doesn't crush.
On 2/17/2012 9:52 PM, William F. Adams ([email protected]) wrote:
> On Feb 17, 1:34 pm, tiredofspam<nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
>> If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use
>> end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
>> Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.
>>
>> Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that
>> fits into each other. Then make your own.
>> ABout $2...
>
> I actually bought a plug cutter at the same time, but was too
> impatient to use it.
>
> Neat idea 'bout the nesting tubing --- how do you get the plugs out of
> the larger size?
On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
> the second one broke.
> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
> Thanks for any and all help.
Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
On 2/17/2012 12:15 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>>> the second one broke.
>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>
>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
>
> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out with
> the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
>
Yes, that's for "quitters"! : )
On 2/17/2012 12:13 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>>> the second one broke.
>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>>
>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
>
> Only if he can get a hole drilled down through the broken screw shaft - that
> might be tricky.
>
If he misses a little, it's only wood. I bet the screw comes out!
We always joked that by the time you get to an "Easy Out", the problem
is totally out of the "easy" category. : )
The good thing is that the water pump on a '69 Buick will stay on, and
not leak, using only about half of it's 13 bolts! DAMHIKT! : )
"trvlnmny" wrote in message
news:484628a5-c285-42b7-bd6f-123c585926bd@hs8g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
the second one broke.
My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
Thanks for any and all help.
*****************************
I think craftsman makes a remover that is like a cup to fit over the stub,
and has some grip to grab it as the cup rotates. I know I have seen one,
but does anyone have more of a firm memory on this than I do?
-- Jim in NC
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 12:32:57 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
>If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club
"I broke 80 yesterday. That's a lot of clubs to break but I had a
good time".
-Henny Youngman
>cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.
>
>Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.
Bill wrote:
> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>> the second one broke.
>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>> Thanks for any and all help.
>
>
> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>
> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>
> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out
with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
--
Gerald Ross
Nine out of ten men who try camels
prefer women.
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 10:53:22 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Feb 17, 1:34 pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
>> If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use
>> end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole.
>> Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.
>>
>> Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that
>> fits into each other. Then make your own.
>> ABout $2...
>>
>> On 2/17/2012 1:25 PM, William F. Adams ([email protected]) wrote:
>>
>> > On Feb 17, 12:33 pm, Gerald Ross<[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> Gerald Ross wrote:
>> >>> Bill wrote:
>> >>>> On 2/17/2012 12:01 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>> >>>>> I am working with white oak and brass hinges.
>> >>>>> The hinges came with #4 brass screws.
>> >>>>> When first installing the hinges I used steel screws.
>> >>>>> When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones
>> >>>>> the second one broke.
>> >>>>> My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>> >>>>> Thanks for any and all help.
>>
>> >>>> Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below
>>
>> >>>> http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/
>>
>> >>>> My success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass
>> >>>> screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill
>> >>> EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.
>>
>> >>> Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out
>> >>> with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.
>>
>> >>http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZ3AA/ref=asc_df_B001DSZ3AA1901476/?tag...
>>
>> >> This one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.
>>
>> > I used the 1/4" version when I had a similar problem recently (though
>> > my problem was the defective steel screws).
>>
>> > Worked quite nicely, though I'm still a bit worried about having 3 of
>> > the screws going into end grain where I plugged the holes w/ dowels
>> > --- wouldn't be as worried 'cept that 2 of the holes are under 1 hinge
>> > half, leaving only 1 good screw for that part...
>
>*I* like that approach.
It's not like #3 brass screws are going to be structural or anything,
KnowwhatImean,Vern?
--
The ultimate result of shielding men from folly
is to fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer
On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:01:37 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny
>My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw?
>Thanks for any and all help.
Several things you might consider. Is the problem screw protruding at
all? You could use a Dremel cut off wheel, (or a fine hack saw for
that matter) and cut a slot in it. Then use a slotted screwdriver on
it. If it's flush with the surface, then the Dremel wheel idea might
still work.
If attempting this might irreparably damage your project, then I'd
suggest a holesaw just larger than the broken screw, snap out the
screw and fill the hole with filler or a plug of some type.
That's about all I can suggest.